isbjorn

Ok. We have decid to replace it. It seams like it has (as written above) been welded to the crank and its just a bad idea to repair it.. Thanks for all the tips. You have helped me a lot and im looking forward to getting her running again, Nothing is more sad then a LR standing still.

Ah. perfect.. thanks. Then we have to remove the head again.... better to do stuff well form the beginning.

good point. Still don't explain the loos in pressure.

To me it looked quite smooth and nice. But I could only see the lower part.

Here is a pic of the lower connecting rod bearings. They did not sit correctly, they had slided 90 degree so the halves was not on top, but sideways. Don't know if that means anything...

Ok. Here is a reminder of all that we have done so far. Water temp meter drop to 0 stopped, fixed broken return hose intercoler filled her up with water drove 5 min normal temp, filled upp with more water+glykol drove 10 min to hiway when entering hiway the engine started hammering that follow rev. Not very mutch smoke and the engine/water/oil seamed fine. Called a guy with a trailer and sent it to workshop. removed head. professionally skimmed and renovated head. Skimmed valves and replaced all sealings and so forth. replaced head gasket (3 holes) and dowels. Replaced lower crankshaft bearings. nr 1 was badly worn and not very streight in the edges. The piston and vents looked good, no direct burn, and the cylinder edges was smoth. Looked almost new. The pistons had no free movement/glitch up or down. Just a tad sideways. The rotation of the engine manually is smooth and nice. It does hower build up quite a bit of compression when rotating so it is a bit heavy. remounted everything. set the timming correctly and started the car. Now we have cleaned and replaced the injector loom just in case. The pressure test showed 18kg on cyl 1 and ruffly 30-35 on the other 4. All the injectors are in the right place. Since the head is newly renovated it should not be any leaks upwards, but you never know. My mechanic want to take of the head again and check the piston bolt (gudgeon pin) and the piston rings. Status now: A bit of smoke, not to bad but the way it should look if one of the injectors dont work. A hammering noise that follow ref. So more rev = louder banging. When its at ide you cant here it at all. But speeding up is really painful. The things i think it might be causing noise 1. Worn upper small connect rod bearing 2. The bad compression and failure to ignite causes the hammering. 3. worn gudgeon pin 4. Electrical error with injector nr1, but that should not make the pressure in the cylinder drop. 5. The head gasket is blown again, but we cant find any evidence like air coming out, water going in or anything usual. 6. The mechanic who renovated the top made something wrong when installing the cyl1 vents and the air leaks out that way. What are your guys opinion? IS there any test to be done before removing the head again? many thanks for all help...

Ahh. I love my 200, everything is so much nicer to work with . thanks for the tips.

Many thanks. That what i thought as well. Do you think its possibly to run a t-crossing on the pick up line and redirect some of it to a webasto? I would prefer to run a new line in to the tank for the heater. Is that a complicated thing? On my td5 I need to lower the tank (or cut a hole in the floor). How does it work on the old pickups?

Hi. Does the 200tdi usually have the fuel pump at the same place as the td5s or is at the engine bay? Ive got a OneTen pickup with a 200tdi conversion and im not sure where to find it. thanks.

Hi. A quick question. Ive just installed a renovated head on my td5 due to overheating, and are having troubles with massive diesel exhaust smoke, low power, difficult start and a loud thumbing noise when idling up. We run a diagnostic and got these max values; Cylinder roughness no.1 +25 no.2 +2 no.3 -10 no.4 -15 no.5 -5 I know these are showing how much the ecu need to compensate/tune the injectors to level them. But would these numbers be possible due to a bent con rod, or maybe a crack between the cylinders. The early td5s seams to be prone to cracking. Everything else in the computer seamed quite correct, and the injectors are in the right positions. We have also set the chain timing with the original lr looking pins and everything looks fine, and it rotates fine manually. I forgot to mention one more strange thing, that the air flow reads 0 all the time. Maybe not that important, but any how.

Ive set the calibration by using the original land rover tools, and still got the same problems. So the error is some where else.. Ill start a new thread on the error codes instead.

Hm, i think it is white smoke, but maybe it will decrese later on. Ill give it some more testing once i have replaced the missing exhaust mainfold bolts. Thou It sems like the mainfold is slightly wrapped, ruffly 1-2 mm. Is that something i should do anything about?

Ok, Ive solved it. its not supposed to go in to the holes, but in to the slice instead. Works like a charm. I had missed the slice in the ball house wheel when I rotated the engine, so I thought it was supposed to fit in one of the many holes. But now I know better. So the chain is perfectly aligned according to the pins. But I'm still getting heavy white smoke from the exhaust, it starts fine thou. Can this be due to a missing bolt in the Exhaust Manifold. I happened to pull one off earlier and it is leaking a bit of air there... Thanks for the relies so far. And yes its a td5.

Hi. Im trying to adjust my engine so that the crank shaft and pistons are align and runs fine together. Ive got a setting that runs, but with a lot of smoke, and hard starts. So I need to get it 100% right. To do this I've got two timing pins, lrt-12-158 and lrt12-058. But it won't fit. Ok, first the 058 goes in at top, but its not very exact. I can move the engine some millimeters in each direction with it in. Its that the way it should be? And the 158 pin that is screwed in from below in the gearbox bell house does not fit, because the hole is not centers to the hole in the bell house, its to far backwards... I would need to screw the pin in slightly sideways to actually reach the hole.. And how are you supposed to know with hole to use? Its one whole every few centimeters in the disk/crankshaft? Im so confused and quite Mildly miffed off for the moment, But any help is greatly appreciated. I don't know if the marks on the chain is correct.

Ok. so I guess I have to remove the sump and use the timing pins to set it 100% correctly. Ive been testing my way millimeter by millimeter but its not a good method. It also seams that some one else has been in the engine because the chain marks are off by 1/4 turn, but thats the way it was when we removed the head. Another question related to this. When we run the engine the chain setting we have now, if we idle up we get a kind of thumping noise (we have rotated the engine by hand first so no touching) relative to the rpm. But only on hi revs. Could this be because the timing is wrong as well or should we start looking for other causes? Many thanks for all the help. I love this forum (and the ipod app for it)

Am i correct that you mean that my pistons are slightly behind, so i should rotate the engine counterclockvise ( without camshaft wheel attached ) ?

Ok, thanks. Ill give it a go today.

Its to stupid to say... My main battery was running empty at 6volt. And that caused the problems... Didn't really notice it was empty becouse all the aux stuff was on the second batt and I was stressed.

Its a TD5 1999 defender... sorry forgot to write..

Hi. Ive just done a stupid thing and need some help fixing it. Ive just remounted a head and it seams to me that the timing chain has moved a step or two while I had the head of. I did not use the colored links and lined them up as I should have according to the workshop manual. The reason I think so is because: 1.She is hard to start, only works with full throttle. 2. White smoke (not water) 3. Vert bad power on all gears and revs. How do I solve this. I assume I can remove the head cover and then put...? Many thanks for any tips or help. ps. Ive learned the following: 1. Read the workshop manual first. 2. Think if its really a cleaver thing to do by yourself 3. Read the manual again. 4. Follow the manual or don't do it.

solved it.

nope. I havent done either of them . To bleed the fuel system i need the pump to start working and it dont. It should start at ignition pos 1 but then we have the error described above. I haven't reset the rocker arm, didn't think that was needed. And does the td5 really check the gap when just turning on the ignition? Im not even trying to rotate the engine, just get the first pos of ignition working. That is getting the diesel pump to run and the dashboard to lighten up... thanks for the heads up on the rocker arm thou.

Hi. Ive just remounted my head after a renovation and are having some problems starting the car. The engine rotates fine manually and all valves and pistons should be in the same positions as when I demounted her. When I turn the ignition to the first step I get a fast blink of the dashboard lights and a quick click sound ( like a relay around the fuel regulator) then everything dies. I don't really know why, everything should be in its right places and plugged in. What kind of checks do the td5 do when ignition is turned on? thanks for any suggestions..

Hi. Can someone help me decide what parts I need. Ive been checking rave and microcat, but there is a lot of parts to choose from. I would like to change all the crankshaft bearings since my no 1 is worn. So what stuff do I need? Whats the differens between the STC3300 or the STC3299 or do I need both? Also do I need the 11 and the no 9 parts as well (se attached image)? many thanks. 1999 TD5 110

Ive just removed my oil sump and it seems like its the nr 1 crankshaft bearing that is worn. It is glitching quite a bit. The other ones seems fine thou, but ill change them anyway. Thanks for the tips,and ill let you know how it goes.