isbjorn

Ok. ignore the post above. After doing some research i Think Ive got two options. (except trying to move the camper a bit more forward by removing the rear lights and my spare wheel.) Opt. 1 Original 130 dual rear suspension and possible ome shocks(?) + Anti rollbar. ≈800£ Opt. 2 Ome HD rear springs and shocks + anti roll bar. ≈1200£ The question is, the Ome spring should give me a 2"lift if I understand the text properly. I don't want to raise my truck any more since its hi enough the way it is. Or should I count them to be the same hight as the original HD ones, which I assume with give a lift if unloaded? This is difficult to decide...

hmm, would it be enough to run the OME HD springs from old emu and there sport shocks? The weight id covered but I dont know how mutch the helper springs will help if the main spring already is up for the challenge... Is it possible to combine the Old Emu OME springs with the helper-springs? Or does the Emu springs raise the truck to much? And is there any point? So far im looking at this:

well, the main weight should be within the axels, or possible on top of the rear axel, the hangover from end of bed is unsupported and floats in the air. But yes I can se that that is a problem i need to adress. The problem i that the defender rear lights are so big (but beautiful) that I am forced to move the camper a bit back on the bed not to brake them. But I will do a test and try to move it as far in over the wheels as possible, I also have the spare wheel in front now, that need to be removed. maybe i need to upgrade to the not so nice NAS verisons.... thanks for the input.

Thanks for the advice. I didn't even know there was a hole behind there. Ill do as you suggested and hopefully that will be the solution. Its not leaking that much, but enough to tiddle of everyone I'm visiting thanks.

as in, You have to remove the whole engine because its behind the engine mount?

How do I reach them, from the inside?

Hi. Ive spend a considerate amount of time patching up oil and fuel leaks on my 200 tdi. And now Ive only got one major leak left, and I cant find it. Can someone help me track it down? Lets follow the leak from reverse. it ends on the sump box. comes down via the sump plug from the oil return pipe goes forward along the top edge of the sump cover Goes up on the engine block wall and in behind the engine mount. And then disappears... everything above the engine mount is all dry and clean... Ive checked the oil filter assemble, its all dry and good. (but a bit filthy) Ive replaced the square oilfilter return hose thingy that is next to it. All dry and fine. the top of the engine mount is all dry and nice. I do have a small leak on the diesel injector pipe assembly, but I can not figure out hpw that could leak oil in the amount Im getting. Or how it can possible wander down all the way to the sump cover.... and it should be diesel not oil right?

Super. Thanks for the inputs, Ill have a look at the anti rollbars and the 130 springs...

I just installed a camper on my OneTen and the suspension is not quite up for the task. It is a bit soft (hangs slightly backwards) and very unstable sideways (rolling is the main problem), probably since the car and camper now stops a 3m height (118inch).... My other truck has the original dual rear springs. Should I fit those or should I go for a aftermarket HD spring and possible dual dampers? Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.. oh, and the car is not raised. Only bigger tires.

Well, somewhere it is a melted wire or similar. Im trying to find it. The strongest suggestion to where it is, is the fact that pin B33 WG, on the black ECU connector is earth. It should probably be plus. I will try to trace it during the weekend. Forget about the fuse box mentioned earlier. It is the same little sneaky ground that hits it before I turn the ignition... and its placed centred on bulkhead just under the bonnet. Probably a AUX as you said. B33 goes according to the diagram: Engine Control Module ECM black Fusebox passager compartment, fuse 5, 10 amp Switch ignition Pos3 Ign 2A Fuse box engine compartment link 5, 60 Amp Battery + Thanks for the tips so far.

Should the fuse box on the bulk head in the engine compartment be earth? Brown wires 4 blade fuses, transparent cover...?

Ive now measured the earth resistance in all of the ECU plugs. I got some strange results some of them. The Black earth cables are fine with 0 resistance. But the following ones shows a resistance towards the battery earth so that should suggest a short circuit somewhere. I don't know if this is enough to mess up the ECU but its worth a shot. Its going to be hell to find it thou. Black contact (that shows earth resistance) B5 UP Relay fuel pump B7 GU Instrument pack B22 NO Header 0291 to red ecu B19 YK ECU ABS B13 YK Instrument pack B30 BY Instrument pack B34 LGS Ecu Alarm I also wonder about these... B33 WG - Fusebox passager compartment, then to fusebox in engine compartment, and then to plus B35 BW - Switch Clutch pedal position (probably correct) They both are steady earth, no resistance, Should they really be earth?

Previous post on the same car... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78098&hl=

Hi. Long story short. Ive got a defender td5 with a remapped ECU (alive tuning). The engine overheated due to melted water pipe, so we replaced it with a working disco td5 10p. But I never got it to run. Me and my mechanic both gave up. But 1 year later, I tried to tow-start the basterd. And it worked... It starts but runs incredibly bad, no power, lots of white smoke and dies if idle. Almost like its running on 1 cylinder or the injection is completely of the clock. We have tried everything including swapping the ECU for a known good one (same year defender). Checked fule pressure, checked compression on 1-4 cyl, checked power and earth connections, New pump, new injectors, new injector loom and so forth. Its just a big mystery. But now for the first time I got the error codes the car makes while running (not only cranking) and I thought that maybe someone could have a look at it and give me their opinions. Thanks for any help... NANOCOM - TD5ENG.APP - TD5 ENGINE fault file <- after driving (1,7) AIR FLOW CIRCUIT, (LOGGED LOW). --- (1,8) MANIFOLD PRESSURE CIRCUIT, (LOGGED LOW). --- (2,8) AMBIENT PRESSURE CIRCUIT, (LOGGED LOW). --- (3,8) MANIFOLD PRESSURE CIRCUIT, (LOGGED HIGH). --- (4,1) INLET AIR TEMPERATURE CIRCUIT, (LOGGED HIGH). --- (4,2) FUEL TEMPERATURE CIRCUIT, (LOGGED HIGH). --- (4,3) COOLANT TEMPERATURE CIRCUIT, (LOGGED HIGH). --- (10,1) AIR CONDITIONING FAN DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (LOGGED). --- (10,4) GEARBOX / ABS DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (LOGGED). --- (10,5) AIR CONDITIONING CLUTCH DRIVE OPEN LOA D, (LOGGED). --- (10,8) GLOWPLUG RELAY DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (LOGGED). --- (14,1) AIR CONDITIONING FAN DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (CURRENT). --- (14,4) GEARBOX / ABS DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (CURRENT). --- (14,5) AIR CONDITIONING CLUTCH DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (CURRENT). --- (16,2) HIGH SPEED CRANK (LOGGED). --- (28,7) TOPSIDE SWITCH FAILED PRE INJECTION, (LOGGED). --- (31,1) INJECTOR 1 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED). --- (31,2) INJECTOR 2 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED). --- (31,3) INJECTOR 3 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED). --- (31,4) INJECTOR 4 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED). --- (31,5) INJECTOR 5 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED). --- NANOCOM - TD5ENG.APP - TD5 ENGINE input file <- while cranking Engine Speed (rpm);Road Speed (Km/h);Idle Speed Error (rpm);Accel. Way 1 (V);Accel. Way 2 (V);Accel. Way 3 (V);Accel. Supply (V);Battery (V);Air Flow (gr/hr);Ambient Pressure (Kpa);Manifold Turbo Pressure (Kpa);Air Inlet Temp. (∞C);Coolant Temp. (∞C);Fuel Temp. (∞C);EGR Inlet (%);EGR Modulator (%);Wastegate Modulator(%);Cylinder 1;Cylinder 2;Cylinder 3;Cylinder 4;Cylinder 5 0;0;-961;0.608;4.401;0.000;4.993;11.53;4.3;99.59;99.65;4.8;3.0;3.2;0.00;0.00;0.00;0;0;0;0;0 0;0;-961;0.608;4.401;0.000;4.988;11.53;4.3;99.59;99.65;4.8;3.0;3.2;0.00;0.00;0.00;0;0;0;0;0 0;0;-961;0.608;4.401;0.000;4.993;11.53;4.3;99.50;99.65;4.8;3.0;3.2;0.00;0.00;0.00;0;0;0;0;0 0;0;-961;0.608;4.401;0.000;4.993;11.53;4.3;99.50;99.65;4.8;3.0;3.2;0.00;0.00;0.00;0;0;0;0;0 0;0;-961;0.608;4.401;0.000;4.993;11.53;4.3;99.59;99.73;4.8;3.0;3.2;0.00;0.00;0.00;0;0;0;0;0 NANOCOM - TD5ENG.APP - TD5 ENGINE fault file <- After clearing and then cranking (10,1) AIR CONDITIONING FAN DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (LOGGED). --- (10,4) GEARBOX / ABS DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (LOGGED). --- (10,5) AIR CONDITIONING CLUTCH DRIVE OPEN LOA D, (LOGGED). --- (14,1) AIR CONDITIONING FAN DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (CURRENT). --- (14,4) GEARBOX / ABS DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (CURRENT). --- (14,5) AIR CONDITIONING CLUTCH DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (CURRENT). ---

Can you post it here afterwards? I would like to know it as well... Thanks.

Ha. That solved everything. How could I miss that? Ive been refusing passengers for 3 weeks now. And the solution was right there. Thanks.

Hi. I remove the two bolt keeping the seatbelt to the ground behind the seat. It rolled up, and now I cant for the life me figure out how to get it out again... Any ideas. I Tried to dissemble it, but its made with some kind of secret super screws with only 3 sides... Like a Y. thanks

haha. thanks. I´ll do that.

Hi. Dont know much about rims... but I was looking at some pre fitted wheels from paddock. Its mounted on "6x7in Silver Grey Modular". Are the rims any good for heavy loads and a bit of off-roading? My truck is using (se photo) at the moment, I don't know exactly what kind they are or if its worth keeping them and just mount new tires on it? It would probably be slightly cheeper for me to order a kit, and sell the old ones then buying only the tire and fit it locally. What would you have done? thanks.

Oouch, those prices hurts.... But thanks for the no.

Hi. Does anyone know the part no. for the front LH and RH door trim. Its for a OneTen 84. So a normal defender fit, but with a round little knob for unlocking instead of the usual square button (se attached photo of what i don't have.) Thanks.

Do I need to drain the oil before removing it?

Hi, I need something similar to this. Can anyone give a hint of a good one for my OneTen? It´s on a Wolf ambulance, and maybe they where original landrover ones?

The engine was installed by the guy who is considered to be on of this countries no1 guy. He also had the former head technician of Land rover stockholm there for 1-2 days to try to start it. But they could not... So my skills are quite limited compare to them. But I am trying. Nope, havent tried that, but the other ECU is 100% functional with a defender from the same year. Il give it a go. Thanks for all the tips so far.

Fixed: Video of engine: http://norly.com/films/td502.mov Video of exhaust http://norly.com/films/td501.mov Aftersmoke... http://norly.com/films/td503.mov Jup, fine in 1-4 cylinder. The air flow was fine last time we run a diagnostic. The filter looked good and was full with diesel. The fuel lines has not been moved since we swapped the engine so it could not be wrong. and the Diesel is going in the right direction, and the pressure on the return pipe was fine. Ill give it a bit more testing, I thought that I should check all the wiring to the ECU and se that it good a good solid power and ground.