Porny
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Posts posted by Porny
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Hiclones are pretty good, but they only realy help engine background. Vortex exhaust box, they will give you quite a bit more, and lighten your pocket
Really.... I'm yet to see any actual data that confirms either of these products and shows them to be anything other than snake oil.
A straight through exhuast will help (esp. if you go larger than the 2 1/4" standard size.... 2.5 or even 3" will work well)
In reality though...
A tuned td5 will produce anything from 150 - 190 bhp.... and upto about 420Nm of torque....
A tuned Tdi.. with a tweaked pump etc etc - will produce upto about 145 - 155bhp at a max, and I doubt more than about 350Nm (again - max)... so you will always be left behind.
Put another way, my 300Tdi isn't a slouch and is tweaked.... but there is no way it would keep up with a properly tuned Td5 (the one elsewhere on this forum for example - sell the lowered 90 threads)
Ian
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He demonstrated with one front wheel on a pair of heavy duty rollers, with ETC on and off (he had a trick/undocumented way of turning it off - some ECU sequence I presume) and with the centre diff locked and unlocked.
Isn't a trick... or anything that special:
Traction Control can be disabled by operating the brake pedal ten times within ten seconds, when the ignition is turned on.
Traction Control will be re-activated when the ignition is turned off then on again.
Ian
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I have a Series 3 tub that at some point has had one of the rear wings replaced....
Originally the rear tub outer wings are spot welded to the rest of the tub, but the replacement has been riveted in place - as most of them are.
However... I want to get the tub back to original spec and thus have a new wing spot welded in place.
Is there anyone on here with the necessary kit etc etc (bearing in mind the wing/tub are aluminum) that would be able to do it in exchange for some folding beer tokens?
Somewhere near the Midlands would be good, but will happily travel.
Cheers
Ian
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Are they still making them??
I had a look the other day and there website has changed and doesn't show any bumpers. Maybe they haven't got that bit of the site uploaded/updated yet???
I would be quite happy to pass folding stuff in Southdown's direction having experienced the Range Rover one...
So you didn't look here then lol
http://www.southdownoffroad.com/WinchBumpers_000.htm
I've got a Southdown bumper on my 90... is 100% spot on.
Ian
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George....
Looking good. Those pictures could almost be mistaken for 1970's press launch jobbies!!
Glad the Td5 is going ok.
Ian
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Don't forget to try Craddocks. I know they break Landrovers as I just brought a new dash top for my 90 from them.
HTH
Ivan
Or post a wanted add on the forum (when you've got more than 20 posts)....
I have a dashboard in VGC going spare, and I'm not that far from you (often travel upto Long Eaton if that's closer), and I can usually get hold of other bits including door trims, head linings etc etc.
Ian
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The problem is isolated when i unplug one of the multi-plugs on the loom, it appears to feed the O/S of the engine, possibly the injector harness??? Does anyone have any ideas as to what to do, this may or may not be why she wont start when she used to!
What colour is the plug, and the wires into it??
Sounds like you got a chaffed cable somewhere, or lacking in earths.
Also check for a good earth at the ECU - the pins into the ECU and in the blue bus bar type thing - that has ignition live one side, and earth the other.
Ian
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Clutch Claw is also available from Screwfix but I personally went the firms owner and bought direct from him (he lives about 1/2 mile from Billing).
I suppose it might be possible to drive a vehicle with the brake & clutch peddles locked into position but just how do you do it?
Engaging gear is probably going to stall the thing and starting it in gear would have you kangerooing down the road while the engine trys to catch. Disengaging the gears to slow down (while fiddling with the handbrake at the same time!) is going to be equally exciting and I don't really think that anyone would try to drive the vehicle off with one in place.
Removing the Clutch Claw isn't as simple as you may think either, a single cut with an angle grinder will not free it from the peddles, multiple cuts would be required and while all this is going on you are making one hell of a noise.
Like I said in my earlier post, you can do so much but at the end of the day they might just carry the vehicle away bypassing all security devices.
Use a perminant fused supply to feed the alarm & immobiliser. It only has to be able to support a very low current so a small fuse is used and it can be taken from either the battery or from the perm +VE side of the FIA switch.
Sorry.... But I disagree...
I have driven numerous Land Rovers when the clutch as failed, and it is far from impossible... infact if you want to show off, you can even use high and low.
With the engine off, simply engage first gear and turn the key - with an application of the throttle you will soon be moving with very little kangerooring.
The you just need to get the revs/speed right to go into second etc etc... and then using the correct revs and speed you can easily come back down the gearbox.
With a little bit of practice all of this can be done very smoothly... not that anyone would really care if they were nicking your Land Rover.
As for the immobilser/alarm...
Regardless of what immobilser you have any pre Td5 (and that isn't too hard to get round) is very easy to get started with just a length of wire or two lengths if you don't want to jump start it.
And to anyone who says.. well I have a battery cut off. Well.. try connecting a 9v PP9 battery, or better still, a nice little motorcylcle battery to the fuel cut solenoid and listen for the click.
Although if you have an aftermarket alarm the siren will be going off... in theory... and if you have a Td5 setup with just the two horns (and not the battery backup) then they may or may not be going off
... it depends if someone has slashed your plastic wheel spat.You can only do so much and make it awkward for people to pinch. But if someone wants your Land Rover, they will take it. Just go for the best mechanical and electronic security you can.
And before anyone states that I've given information away etc etc... what I've stated is nothing new... and is based on basic mechancial knowledge, and buying bits from stolen recovered Land Rovers from various breakers. (I always try and work out how the LR has been pinched - which is pretty sad I know!!!)
Ian
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Anyone know of any retailers for the Clutch Claw ?
I have asked Centinel for this info and will post an update when they come back to me.
Thanks
Clutch claw... how does that stop your driving the car??
Drive clutchless and use the handbrake to slow down.
I prefer a full metal jacket - as it covers the accelerator pedal too - http://www.rs-laser-cutting.co.uk/fullmetaljacket.htm
Ian
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Personnally I'd do a few other things before I fit a different cooler.... The standard LR intercooler isn't 'that' bad.
Make sure the timing is 100% spot on - and you can even run the pump a little bit advanced for a bit more.
Check turbo boost pressure - as standard should be 0.8bar - but a healthy 200Tdi will run 1bar or 1.2bar all day long without a problem even on a standard cooler (1.2bar or 17psi is about the limit for the turbo before it becomes inefficient)
Flush your current intercooler out.
Have the injectors checked and cleaned.
Play with the pump a bit more, or take it off and have it reclaibrated.
Ian
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Poor Mr. Porny is tortured with phone calls and txts from me
My little ciruit tester flashed quickly when poked into each of the injector wires and the car was cranked. It didn't flash very brightly so maybe the injectors just haven't been getting 12v
I've slept on it and came to a few conclusions. In fact I'm becoming quite the expert myself
A. It may well be flooded. I'll pull the glow plugs today and see if I can find cylinders full of diesel.
B. The crank sensor generates AC so my circuit tester was never going to light anyway. But then I also realised that if the crank sensor wasn't doing what crank sensors do then the injectors wouldn't fire right?
C. I'm reading the same story all over the web - people knocking their heads against the wall after testing every little thing but the car still won't start. And it usually comes back to the battery not being 100%
D. I have a few wires (just instrumentation stuff) mixed up - I know cause when I turn the Ign on the temp guage goes through the roof. I'm thinking these could be compounding an already dubious charge from the battery.
So happens I was given a present of a boost box last night, plus I've been giving the battery a little TLC over night too. I'll pull the plugs, drain any diesel, cut and insulate all non essential wiring, throw in a few extra earths for good measure and try the battery with a hand from the booster. Failing all that I'll get another battery.
You could try getting it to start with a can of Eazi-start!!
Make sure the thick brown wire inside the engine loom has a good 12volts - needs to be a 30amp supply.
As mentioned you need a oscilloscope to check crank sensor feed.. but you can check continuity back to the ECU. The crank sensor should be connected to pins 36 and 13 of the red plug going to the ECU.
Then I fit some extra good earths, ideally straight from the battery to the engine block.
Fuel temp sensor you can ignore until the engine is running.
On the black Plug going to the ECU check that pins 1, 2, 24 and 25 go to a good earth point.
The Cut wire is a bit more interesting.... looking at the wiring diagram...
There should be a brown/pink wire should be from pin 22 of the red ECU plug, then it changes to Brown/Black and is connected to injectors 1, 3 and 4... and is the power feed for these injectors.... there should also be a brown and orange wire that feed injectors 2 and 5 this comes from pin 23 of the red plug.
Although I only have the post 2002 wiring diagram here.
And p.s. ignore the boost box, until you've got a remap that is matched to it.... otherwise you will underfuel at the top end and loose power - have a read of the lowered 90 - update thread lol.
Ian
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We still never got to the bottom of the TD5 setup that started this thread off....years ago! I'd love the info gaps to be filled in!
Watch this space
Ian
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I have plugs, cable, and a crimping tool....
Could sort them out if you want to come and have a look at my tree!!
Ian
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Is a shame it's not a latter ECU (NNN****) type as we could get the Chassis Number of the vehicle it came from (well, where the ECU came from).... and HPI it etc etc and trace the engine number.
One option would be as bull bar cowboy suggested - there are a few knackered engines around (oil pump failures etc etc).
If you do everything properly then you 'may' have problems and get loads of grief.... but then if you don't sort it out, it may cause problems later!! Tis a bit like having an SVA done - i.e. do you do it or not
....The other, innocent explanation is that it is an engine from a stolen recovered car... I know of a few engines that have had the numbers removed - but ideally you would need a receipt for the engine purchase from a breaker, stating where the engine is from etc etc.
AFAIK... the DVLA will just record 'no engine number' on a V5 if the number is missing - though you may need proof as to why it's missing.
By the way your ECU will be in the post tomorrow, so should be with you Friday or Saturday if still needed.
Ian
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However... I can remap your Tomcat
However, you'll charge lots of money.
So... if I find someone who has had their flashable ecu remapped with more power, whats to stop the nanocom reading the file, and rewriting it to a different ecu?
I don't charge that much lol... and could be cheaper for a bit of advertising lol. Plus the fact I would do a map to suit your car, ECU, setup and how you want it drive.
AFAIK its something to do with the checksums within Nanocom... I just know as standard a Nanocom won't read/write a modified map.
Without being cynical, it's just a way of making more money.... especially as the only tuner that can 'offically' supply remapped files is Td5 Alive.
Ian
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Just got a Nanocom to use with a TD5 Tomcat comp safari racer. Now looking for a fuel map to increase the power a bit. Has anyone got an improved map for a post 2002 engine?
Interestingly....
You can can't copy, or upload modified files with a Nanocom. It will only do standard files.
However... I can remap your Tomcat
Ian
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sorry .... Welcome
Welcome to the forum Skid...
First thing to check.
With the ignition off, remove the drivers seat base and seat box panel.... then unplug the red plug from the ECU.
Is it covered in oil??
This is one of the most commom problem areas on a Td5 and can cause the problems mentioned. The fix is relatively inexpensive and easy to do.
Ian
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What engine is it for??
Ian
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Have done already, he's a busy boy though and I'm worried I might not hear from him for a while. I probably need to relax a little about it, I've been these situations before though and just freaking out a little at the prospect of this turning into a saga...
Green/White - should be an igntion feed, and also supplies a feed to the back up siren...
But the rest of the wiring looks none standard - should be a feed for the LED on the dash I think amoung other things.
When I next get chance (will be home again next) will double check as have a standard, un-messed with loom at home.
Other option is to send me your ECU and I'll remove the need for the 10AS unit.... which will mean a few changes to the wiring, but nothing major... but you will have no immobilser at all!!
Ian
P.s - Shackleton thank you for you pm's!!!
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As BogMonster said...
Clear all the faults and go from there.
Whereabouts are you in the world???
A Td5 should go through water without a problem....
Some of those faults I wouldn't expect to see on a Defender (does your temp. gauge work correctly?)
What year is your Defender???
Ian
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Or there's this one! Surprisingly clean for its age....
Love the description, especially the BS about the Tower of London! WTF!
At least they got the colour correct....
Colour: Black
Fuel: Diesel
Engine Size (cc): 2286
Model Year (YYYY): 1959
Manufacturer: Land Rover
Type: Four Wheel Drive
Date of 1st Registration (DD/MM/YYYY): 01/11/1959
Number of Previous Owners: 9
(damm.... to late with this one lol)
What it should be is a 1999 - 2002 spec Defender 90!
I also like the fact it has electric window switches, but wind up windows.
Interestingly.... all they have done is raided the parts bin at JE Engineering, or at least copied all their ideas!!!
http://www.jeengineering.co.uk/d_interior.htm
http://www.jeengineering.co.uk/d_exterior.htm
And they are standard vented front discs by the looks of it...
Ian
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As mentioned.... is a common problem.
Usually you can just get away with changing the injector harnesss - which is cheap and easy.
A new injector harness is £40 (or thereabouts) and to change it all you need to do is remove the rocker cover.... unplug the old harness, and plug the new one in - making sure that the harness correctly latches on each injector (another cause of problems)
Then keep cleaning both parts of the red plug at the ECU (i.e. male and female parts)... with a thin screwdriver (or just your nail) you can unclip the white cover part of the red plug, which will give you better access to the terminals... after a bit (and with the new injector harness) the red plug should stay oil free.
Ian
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From the workshop manual:
SWITCH - CLUTCH PEDAL
The clutch pedal switch is located on the clutch master cylinder and is activated when the clutch pedal is operated.
The ECM uses the signal from the clutch pedal switch to provide surge damping during gear change.
Surge damping stops engine speed rising dramatically (engine flaring) during gear change.
Surge damping assists driveability as follows:
• Smoother gear change.
• Greater exhaust gas emission control.
• Improved fuel consumption.
Input / Output When the clutch pedal is in the rest position, the clutch switch is closed. This allows a feed to flow from the switch (C0667-1) to the ECM (C0658-35) on a black/white wire. When the clutch pedal is pressed the switch contacts open, cutting the feed to the ECM.
The clutch pedal switch can fail in any one of the following ways:
• Switch open circuit.
• Short circuit to vehicle supply.
• Short circuit to vehicle earth.
In the event of a clutch pedal switch failure surge damping will be inactive.
Ian
... it depends if someone has slashed your plastic wheel spat.
Spot Welding..... question for the welding stig?
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I had thought about gluing it on....
I don't mind the rivets that much, but it's the fact one side is 100% original, and the other has rivets - I don't like them not matching. And it seems almost sacrilege to put rivets in the good side to match.
Ian