[Easy and cheap TD5 Defender cruise control]

Based on my "research" on the rave-CD of a TD5-disco (which uses the same ECU as a TD5-Defender) from 2002 onwards; Pin 10 is the input signal for the brake contact and - therefore - should NOT be put permanently on 12V.

Pin 15 (activation cruise control) can be wired via an ignition +12V but it is far better to put an on-off switch in-between.

One of these days; I'll test the circuit on my TD5 defender to see confirmed (I hope) my statement that pin 10 should not be wired to ignition +12V.

Although it is the same ECU... the coding (i.e. the fuelling and variant files) are different...

Looking at the wiring diagram for a 2002 Defender pin 10 is not used in a Defender application.

Ian

[Easy and cheap TD5 Defender cruise control]

I did read somewhere that there was a problem with doing this - something about only working in 4th gear.

That said, these guys don't seem to have had that problem.

If its the same one I'm thinking about....

I think they had the same problem as the bloke with the GKN overdrive in the Australian Thread.

From what I gather, the kit works OK with standard gearing, but if you fit an overdrive, or a Disco transfer box (i.e. the 1.222:1 gears) etc etc then you start having problems.

Ian

[Fussy TD5 Motors]

All Td5's have 'anti stall' built in, but it was improved slightly in 2002 - in fact there have been a few further updates over the years (and it's been improved further with the trans'fender)

In all honesty, a Td5 as already mentioned needs a slightly different driving style to previous 200 and 300Tdi's - either more revs or pull away using the clutch only.

You could try unplugging the clutch switch, some people find this makes a difference - but its main role is as an anti surge/damping control.

It's unlikely that both of your Td5's are the same, but it could be that (esp. the later model) that they are from the batch that have the high/lows throttle maps reversed - so that the Defender thinks it is low, when actually in high.

Land Rover did this to reduce the driveline shunt that some customers complained about... but the downside is that when in high (and running the low range throttle map) the throttle is pretty unresponsive!!

This can be easily overcome by bridging the pins on the high/low switch wiring - which will result in the Defender thinking it is in high all the time.

A remap will improve low end response to a point - but you are limited as if you try and add too much fuel, you suddenly get lots of smoke low end.

If you wanted to try a remap then let me know, especially with the later Defender (as easier to do!), I'd happily let you trial one for a bit to see if it improves things...

And if it did, then I'd happily remap both Defenders at a very reduced rate - I have a lot of respect for mountain rescue teams who give up their time voluntarily to help others in what can be very adverse conditions!!!

One other thing to consider.... who services your Defenders???

There are a few things that can affect performance on Td5’s that would only be found using diagnostic equipment!!

Ian

[Igniton switch help!!!]

As Roverdrive ^^^^ get the multimeter out and determine which pins are connected for which key position. Then wires/colours can be matched to the pins.

Smo.... as mentioned, get the multimeter out

However, as long as your loom is in good condtion, with all the spade connectors/covers in place (all on your photo):

I'm 99% sure that (I'm not responsible for anything that goes wrong!!!)..... based on a photo I've got lying around:

green spade colour to pin 5

red spade cover to pin 1

white/clear space cover to pin 3

black spade cover to 2

I would work out the wire colours etc etc for you, but I haven't got time.... suposed to be Christmas shopping lol!!

Ian

[300TDi head gasket]

From the workshop manual:

Cylinder Head Gasket Selection.

CAUTION: New cylinder head gasket should be same thickness as the original.

If, however, cylinder head, pistons or crankshaft have been replaced, it will be necessary to check piston stand proud in order to determine the correct thickness of gasket.

1. Position a magnetic base DTI to cylinder block top face adjacent to number 1 cylinder bore.

2. Position stylus of gauge to cylinder block top face on edge of number 1 cylinder bore; zero gauge.

3. Rotate crankshaft in a clockwise direction until numbers 1 and 4 pistons are at TDC.

4. Position stylus of DTI gauge near edge of piston crown, measure and record number 1 piston stand proud. Measurement must be taken at front and rear of piston and highest protrusion figure recorded.

5. Repeat above procedures for remaining pistons.

6. From all of the readings obtained, determine highest protrusion figure and select the appropriate cylinder head gasket. Protrusion 0.50 to 0.60 mm - select gasket with 1 identification hole. Protrusion 0.61 to 0.70 mm - select gasket with 2 identification holes. Protrusion 0.71 to 0.80 mm - select gasket with 3 identification holes. Protrusion 0.81 to 0.90 mm - select gasket with 0 identification holes.

NOTE: Identification holes are located on the edge of the gasket.

7. Remove DTI.

8. Rotate crankshaft in a clockwise direction until all pistons are half-way up cylinder bores.

Ian

[Td5 ecu]

Personnally... don't bother.

You do know you can't 'remap' ECU's (even the NNN flash type) with the Nanocom??

Well.... you can change files for other files... so if you had a remapped/modified set of files, you can down load that file to your ECU. But the Nanocom doesn't allow you to alter maps (which isn't really a DIY thing anyway).

If you want a remapped ECU then have someone correctly remap your current ECU - which in your case, would mean desoldering one of the chips on the main board and fitting a socket - then plugging in a new chip complete with 'modified' fuel map.

I can sort this out if needed: www.irbdevelopments.com - obviously so can other people lol People who tell you your ECU can not be remapped - and try and sell you a new ECU instead - are mislead and/or misleading!!!!

As posted by me in the past:

There are quite a few differences between early and late engines, and as such, there are differences in the ECU's.

Physically, you can run any ECU on any engine, and although it will run, it would not be ideal and you will get quite a few spurious error messages (among other things - some a bit more serious than others!!!). Also, if you try to run a Disco spec ECU on a Defender the temperature gauge will work the wrong way round.

Really....

If you running a post 2002 engine, you want to run a post 2002 Flash Type (NNN****) ECU and if you are running an pre 2002 engine then really you want to run a pre 2002 none Flash ECU (MSB****)

However, there are a few exceptions....

Land Rover no longer supply none Flash MSB ECU, and have superseded them with the later NNN type - to coincide with this, they wrote a fuel and variant file suitable for the earlier pre2002 engines. So you can flash a NNN ECU with these files, and it becomes suitable for the earlier type engine (but still not as good as running the correct type ECU IMHO). There are 'remapped/modified' versions of this file around, but I personally don't don't see the need when you can modifiy the original ECU - rather than selling a customer something they don't need (i.e. a later type ECU)

Ian

[TD5 has been under water, what to expect?]

I know a TD5 specialist here in Holland, unfortunately he's far away from me. Maybe I can ask him to program a NNN*** ECU without the alarm to test the engine, or better, maybe he could come to me to view the car...

You can't program any Td5 ECU without the Alarm or Immobilser.... You need an extra little bit of kit to do that.

The ECU basically looks to either the 10AS alarm ECU or the Disco BCU for a code... if the code it sends back is the same as the one stored in the ECU the car will be allowed to start. If its not, the engine will run for two seconds (if that) and cut out. You can not - using 'any' diagnostic kit - stop the ECU doing this.... I can though

One way around that is to take along a matched Engine ECU and a 10AS unit, then just swap the ones on the car for your matched pair.

You could get your mate to set the 10AS alarm ECU into it's most basic state - that way, if the Defender doesn't have keys you can just hotwire it.

Thanks, but I live in the Netherlands :-)

Isn't far on a plane lol.... have travelled to Greece for someone in the past....

Ian

[TD5 has been under water, what to expect?]

Porny will be your man on this one! but i don't think a disco ECU will run with a defender, and either way, it certainly won't run just by plugging it in, you'll need to change the alarm codes to suit the defender.

I think, from what he's said (Ian = Porny) that the engine will run with the wrong injector codes, just not very well. the codes are on the top oif each injector, its a 5 digit letter code,

As Jamie has stated.... not just a case of plugging a replacement ECU in....

Although not ideal, any Td5 ECU (disco or defender spec) will run any Td5 engine - however the ECU needs to be coded to the Defender's 10AS alarm unit. (unless you have one of my 'special' ECU's that have all the alarm/immo set-up removed!!! )

In the actual car, running a Disco spec ECU on a Defender (for example) will cause numerous faults - and cause the temp gauge to work the wrong way round.

The engine will run with the wrong injector codes, but as mentioned not the best - but OK for a trial.

The other interesting factor.... does the Defender come with Keys and Alarm fob (depending on which state the 10AS unit is set to)??

If the key and fobs are missing (and the car is set to see them) not just a case of hotwiring the ignition.

(not hard to get around though - have done this a few times lol)

Any where near the Midlands(ish) and I could lend a hand if needed.

The other helpful thing would be to plug diagnostic kit in when (and if) the engine is running and have a look at the cylinder compensation and a couple of other things.

Also....

Just re-read your post:

They say they have tried the car with a replacement ECU and it was running fine

They either have diagnostic kit, a spare ECU and a matching 10AS unit - or are lying lol

Ian

[EGR Removal]

From the image below, i have removed the bits highlighted in pink, however im left with all the other bits, some vacuum arrangement etc....which of them do i need to keep??

None of it....

All you need is the main pipe from the vaccum pipe to the brake servo - all the take off points can be removed/blanked - or I can supply a vaccum pipe that doesn't have the take off points.

Ian

[2005 Def TD5 engine in 2000 Disco?]

Hi, I drive a 2000 Disco TD5 with about 200000 miles on it. Still excellent though. I also have a spare td5 engine from a 2005 defender with only 6000 miles.

I'm thinking of putting the newer engine in my disco and selling the old one while it is still ok.

Is this a straight swop and is the only thing I need to do programming the new injector codes to my ecu?

Is quite easy...

Apart from a few differences, the Defender engine will fit your Disco...

ECU wise...

Fit the later ECU from the Defender if you have it - as you want (well, ideally need) a later EU3 Flash - NNN type - to match the later engine - there are quite a few differences between EU2 (MSB****) and EU3 (NNN****) engines and ECU's as already mentioned. (there are also various different MSB and NNN ECU's but will ignore that!!)

Then you need to have the Defender files (on the NNN**** ECU) changed for a Disco set up.... teach it your BCU code and away you go....

Followed by a remap

In short (have typed this out in the past)

There are quite a few differences between early and late engines, and as such, there are differences in the ECU's.

Physically, you can run any ECU on any engine, and although it will run, it would not be ideal and you will get quite a few spurious error messages (among other things). Also, if you try to run a Disco spec ECU on a Defender the temperature gauge will work the wrong way round.

Really....

If you running a post 2002 engine, you want to run a post 2002 Flash Type (NNN****) ECU and if you are running an pre 2002 engine then really you want to run a pre 2002 none Flash ECU (MSB****)

However, there are a few exceptions....

Land Rover no longer supply none Flash MSB ECU, and have superseded them with the later NNN type - to coincide with this, they wrote a fuel and variant file suitable for the earlier pre2002 engines. So you can flash a NNN ECU with these files, and it becomes suitable for the earlier type engine.

I can also modify a non-flash ECU, and make it suitable for a none-flash engine - but this isn't really that cost effective to do (easier just to get a second hand NNN ECU)

Obviously, which ever engine and ECU combination you fit, you also need to change the fuel injector codes to suit, and get the engine ECU to 'learn' the Alarm 10AS ECU or BCU on a Disco

Ian

[Defender indicator eletrical connectors]

thanks all for your replies

the ones i have are the ovalish ones as fitted to the td5 and freelander i think. I did think about using seperate connectors and insulating them either with tape or something like that but I did want to try and get the proper connection as I have just spent alot of money upgrading the loom to a 300tdi from an old v8 loom and just wanted everything to be standard and as tidy as possible. The 22 year old loom had so many shorts from bodged old wiring that I had to disconnect the battery every night I now want any modifications to be as standard as possible.

They are actually BMW plugs AFAIK, and I don't know anyone who sells them seperately...

Need to find breaker who will let you cut the plugs off

Ian

[90 SW conversion to pick up]

Thank you. It is exactly what I'm looking for.

What year is your 90?? and whereabouts are you??

I'm going to have a truck cab (in mint condition) going spare soon, and I would be interested in a complete proper CSW roof assembley.... would need to in good condtion, and late ish model year.

Sure we could do a deal - would even swap them over.

Ian

[Importing 110 to U.S.?]

Is this a shell? or a chassis?

A chassis.... a 110 doesn't have a shell as such (just a collection of bolt together panels)

Panel age is irrelevent - plus were only fit for the scrap bin off the 110 the ID is from....

A 110 is a seperate chassis (I think you usually call it a frame in the US), not a monocoque, thus the body work carrys no ID as it is not a bodyshell or of a monocoque type construction ... so in theory the body work is also impossible to date (well to prove extact age)

If you wanted, I could supply the chassis with a complete Td5 Defender Body and a choice of engines inc Td5

Ian

[Importing 110 to U.S.?]

I can supply a brand new galvanised chassis, complete with a 1983 ID for a 110 CSW (first year of 110 production - launched in March 1983)...

All legal and above board, and also have the chassis leg off the original chassis with the VIN number - the rest of the chassis has been cut up for scrap.

If needed, can supply it as a rolling chassis with later axles - along with new bulkhead etc etc.

In the UK, it would still be allowed to keep the ID as brand new replacement chassis to original specification, original suspension type (coil spring) front and rear, and would also have steering set up to original specification - which gives you 9 points via the UK DVLA system (you only need 8)

Was for project, but would sell for the right money.

Next year it will be 25 years old, so suitable for export into the US.

Ian

[TD5 Performance Chips and County Roof?]

Hi Everyone,

Well first off I'm from New Zealand, Over here we a little more deprived of Land rovers that in the UK but we still have a few. Anyway I have a chance to by a 2003 TD5 90 that has been rolled. Replacing the lower panels will not be a problem, however 90 county roofs are very hard to come by over here. Can any one give me a rough idea of what I'd pay for a County roof and rear door in the UK? As I may consider shipping one out.

Also my current vehicle is a 3door 200tdi Disco on 35's, I've done some fiddling and it goes really well, it's basically running with no waste gate and has survived the last 40000km, I'd really like to tweak the TD5 in the 90 if I can. Does anyone know what the story is with TD5 ECUs? Apparently the later ones you can just reprogram the map but the earlier ones require a new chip. Are the ECU's the same apart from that, could I just install a EEPROM in place of the existing ROM and program it as a later one? Are there any websites around that are worth a look?

Cheers

A very good (late) CSW roof complete is about £450-£600 or there abouts (depends on condition/age), and a back door depends if you want a pre or post 2002 jobbie. An newer type back door fetches £300 - £350, an earlier one can be had for less.

Not quite sure of shipping costs to New Zealand - my mate in Greece was recently quoted £2000 for an early CSW roof and back door including shipping from a company in the UK.... needless to say he isn't buying it from them lol!

Late Td5 ECU's (identified by NNN**** part number) are reflashable, so simply a case of flashing a modified fuel map (and matching variant file) onto it. Obviously you need to have created the modified files first (and the checksum calculation!!) Early ones you do indeed need to change the main chip... but you need a chip with the modified fuel file on it.

There are quite a few internal differences (not just the chip) - and also differences in the way they work/set-up.... in short:

Physically, you can run any ECU on any engine, and although it will run, it would not be ideal and you will get quite a few spurious error messages (among other things). Also, if you try to run a Disco spec ECU on a Defender the temperature gauge will work the wrong way round.

Really....

If you running a post 2002 engine, you want to run a post 2002 Flash Type (NNN****) ECU and if you are running an pre 2002 engine then really you want to run a post 2002 none Flash ECU (MSB****)

However, there are a few exceptions....

Land Rover no longer supply none Flash MSB ECU, and have superseded them with the later NNN type - to coincide with this, they wrote a fuel and variant file suitable for the earlier pre2002 engines. So you can flash a NNN ECU with these files, and it becomes suitable for the earlier type engine.

I can also modify a non-flash ECU, and make it suitable for a none-flash engine - but this isn't really that cost effective to do (easier just to get a second hand NNN ECU)

Obviously, which ever engine and ECU combination you fit, you also need to change the fuel injector codes to suit, and get the engine ECU to 'learn' the Alarm 10AS ECU.

I can offer remapped Td5's ECU's - have a look here: http://www.irbdevelopments.com/remap_td5.html

And you can't run a Td5 without a wastegate unless you use an additional 'box' to remove the boost cut limit - anything much higher than standard boost levels, the ECU will cut fueling until the boost pressure drops.

A little box of tricks is £100....

Ian

[finally over it]

I went by plane and came back driving this "waited" black defender 90 td5:

Today, 111111 km on the clock!

first impresion was that it did good on the road, good perfoming while climbing (above 3000 m o sea lev) and considering that my old car was a suv (honda crv), performing "s" shape roadways was nice.

Economy in my opinion, perfect! Arround 720 km of autonomy, expense of a full tank in this country is arround 12 euro.

The rear lateral windows where totally noisy, i felt also a lack of braking, probably brake pads are in bad conditions, and defntly i need new shoes (appreciate some suggestions-how about the same General tyres)

I didn't bought this car to reach high speed, but climbing the Andes arround 120 km/h was nothing bad.

Then i got to bad roads, I imagined that the lr was lighter, even with lack of tyres, performing was smooth, no problems in muddy cnditions.

i also checked the winch and had little problem putting back the dif lock on normal position.

i'd like to have a rpm gauge (probably i'd like to install one) cause i (first time driving a diesel) felt necesary to keep pushing and pushing the throttle in low rev, while overpassing obstacles.

Now, what should i check? Turbo? Transfer case? ECU? New with this machines, new with diesel, new with computer to tune the car and also new with lrovers. Oils and filters are all new, installed before the first 700 km journey. Someone wrote to read about maintanance, but i didn't found it in this forum. Please explain where can i find a schedule of mntnce (checking tips) of the car. Spare parts in Ecuador are REALLY expensive, so suggestions are welcome.

The old owner told me about doing an upgrade with a new ECU (not sure if i understood), is it posible, does it worth the effort (and expense)?

Nice choice of Land Rover

Is quite a personal choice when it comes to tyres - but I'm not a fan of General Grabbers as fitted as standard to Td5's... I find them pretty bad on wet roads, and not the best off road.

Depending on your useage, I'd rather go for a set of BFGoodrich MT's (or AT) or a set of Goodyear MTR... the BFG's especially have a long life, and both are good on and off road.

A rev counter isn't hard to fit to a Td5 - as the ECU outputs the correct signal.

Some Defenders already have the wiring behind the dash, but if not you simply need to run a wire from the black ECU plug under the right hand seat to behind the dashboard.

A genuine part Td5 Rev counter is around the £100 mark (plus postage).

I don't know if you have a local dealer, but I'd invest in a diagnostic kit so you have the ability to check everything on your Land Rover. For the money, something like a Nanocom ( http://www.nanocom.it ) isn't bad for the money (£200)... or the other option is a Rovacom SV ( http://www.blackbox-solutions.com ), although this works out slightly more expensive.

Maintance Schedule: http://www.lrforum.com/articles/00039/TD5_...2MY_onwards.pdf

ECU upgrade/remap...

Personnally I'd stay away from plug in boxes (although others might disagree), and have a proper remap. If you bought one of the above diagnostic kits, I could post you a remapped ECU (but you would need to do a few things with the diagnostic kit to get it to work). Have a read here: http://www.irbdevelopments.com/remap_td5.html

Ian

[Chipped 07MY defender]

Well all I can say is that if they got caught they would get a kick up the arris from LR.

Land Rover do know that this goes on....

I remember a story through work about a customer who had bought an ex-demo Defender or Disco from a dealer that I think supplied the PSI boxes (that was there first mistake lol!!)...

After he'd bought it, it had quite a few problems and needed quite a bit of warranty work...

For some reason it ended up going back to Land Rover to be fixed, and they found that the loom had be modified - as the cheaper boxes come with blue scotch locks (obviously a quality product!!), it then transpired that the dealer had been selling these daft plug in things.

AFAIK Land Rover refused to pay all warranty costs on the vehicle (and probably checked on warranty claims for other vehicles), and charged the dealer for the time the vehicle was at Land Rover.

Ian

[Chipped 07MY defender]

Yes it would - LR publish a technical bulletin on the subject of "power upgrades". Chipping or otherwise fiddling with the power output of any of the engines is an instant warranty killer.

If the dealer noticed that is....

Some of the remaps around are undetectable to the dealers - as per Td5 applications - as simply a modified version of the original file.

However, that's not to say a dealer won't apply the latest files - thus overwriting the 'tuned' map.

A dealer can not tell the difference between a remapped file and a standard one!! - unless they suddenly have access to a lot of other kit!!!

A Trans'fender ECU is different internally to a Transit - and remapping it is not the same.

Ian

[What is this bit and what does it do?]

I might try the same modification, thanks guys. I certainly do not like the low range throttle ramp - if I hit the throttle it is because I want power then, not in a second and a half!

Chris

Just unplug the grey plug that goes to the switch on the transfer box and bridge the two pins on the harness side of the plug... then the ECU thinks it's in either high to low range all the time (just depends if yours is wired up normally, or is on the of the odd Td5's that work the other way round)

When you drive it you will very quickly notice the difference....

Ian

[Td5 fuel pump - failure symptoms]

Thanks to everyone for their contributions.

The vehicle is going to get some workshop time this week, to see if the fault can be traced.

As it happens, won't be such a bad thing if it needs parts replacing - the driver's coming home for Christmas soon, so can take anything needed back with him. And it it doesn't work whilst he's away, nobody can "borrow" it, can they?!

Will let the forum know what it turns out to be.

The other thing that can cause similar faults is a faulty ECU

(actually just noticed Mr BogMonster has pointed this out already)

If the ECU is at fault, when you plug the diagnostic kit in, you will usually see: Topside switch failed pre-injection

Ian

[Defender Door Security]

Unless the little scrote is quite clever....

Even if he had got into the Defender, unless he'd got a few brain cells than the average scorte, he still would not have been able to start your Td5 - as if you've got the alarm (10AS) unit in the upgraded state (which you should have, if you've got a two button fob) then you will a passive coil around the igntion barrel - which forms part of the immobilser circuit.

Without the fob, even bodging the ignition barrell would not have allowed him to start the Landy.

A CAT 1 Alarm is a useful aaccessory, but really won't do much more than your current Land Rover alarm - in fact I fitted a Cobra alarm for someone the other (is CAT 1 when fitted by a 'professesional') and was shocked how easy it was to override!!!

Personnally, mechanical protection is the way forward!!!

The Mechlock from MUD STUFF is a nice bit of kit - along with a very visible steering wheel lock (the type that covers the steering wheel) is probably the best way to go.

If you want to make your Td5 even more theft proof, I'd also add a lock onto the seatbox panel, preventing access to the ECU.

Ian

[Nanocom]

Further to that... one thing I've said about the Nanocom is that gives people information, but a lot of people don't know what to do with the info.

Really (in my opinion) a lot of this comes from the slightly lacking instructions supplied by nancom.

As this is now in the Technical Section:

Taken from the Rovacom Help Manual (much better than Nancom, but then more expensive)

Fueling Page:

RPM: This shows the engine speed in rpm. The engine speed is derived from the crank sensor (T102) signal.

Road speed (mph): This shows the vehicle speed in kph. The road speed input signal is supplied by the ABS / SLABS ECU (if fitted) or else by the gearbox via a reed switch. Failure of this input would disable cruise control.

Road speed (km/h): This shows the vehicle speed in mph. The road speed input signal is supplied by the ABS / SLABS ECU (if fitted) or else by the gearbox via a reed switch. Failure of this input would disable cruise control.

Battery volts: This shows the vehicle battery voltage level.

Manifold pressure (KPa): Shows the pressure measured by the pressure sensor mounted into the air intake manifold. Failure of the sensor will result in a default value of 100 KPa being used. Typical values are approximately 100 KPa at sea level with the engine stopped; between 100 - 125 KPa during engine idle conditions. High values of up to 220 KPa indicate when the turbocharger is generating boost (around 3000 RPM).

Ambient pressure (KPa): Shows the ambient atmospheric pressure as measured by the sensor (T209) mounted in the air cleaner lid.

Air flow (kg/Hr): This shows the mass airflow into the engine derived from the air flow mass sensor (T115). This sensor is connected to the TD5 ECU by two wires on C0158. These wires are brown / orange on pin 11 which goes to pin 2 of C0149 on the sensor and pink / black on pin 20 which goes to pin 1 of C0149 on the sensor. The value is used by the EGR Control; as EGR increases the airflow reduces. Sensor failure results in a default value of zero.

Throttle 1 volts: This shows the output voltage from driver throttle pedal potentiometer 1 as read by the TD5 ECU. The voltage reading increases as the throttle pedal is depressed. A fault will be recorded if the sum of the voltages of throttle 1 and throttle 2 do not add up to the throttle supply voltage + or - 10%

Throttle 2 volts: This shows the output voltage from driver throttle pedal potentiometer 2 as read by the TD5 ECU. The voltage reading decreases as the throttle pedal is depressed. A fault will be recorded if the sum of the voltages of throttle 1 and throttle 2 do not add up to the throttle supply voltage + or - 10%

Throttle 3 volts: This shows the output voltage from driver throttle pedal potentiometer 3 as read by the TD5 ECU. The 3 Track Throttle Potentiometer configuration is not used on all vehicles and was introduced at VIN Number YA288371 on a Discovery and 1A605426 on a Defender. The selection may be configured in the settings section.

Throttle supply volts: This shows the regulated supply voltage for the driver throttle pedal potentiometers. The sum of the voltages from driver throttle pots 1 and 2 at any throttle position must add up to within 10% of this voltage or a fault will be recorded.

EGR modulation duty ratio: This shows the open/close duty ratio of the EGR valve (D164). The valve, which is connected to pin 3 of C0158 with a blue wire and to the valve on pin 2 of C0270, is used to re-circulate exhaust gases to reduce nitrous oxide emissions and combustion noise. The higher the reading, the more EGR. Failure of this modulator would lead to increased smoke emissions and combustion noise.

EGR inlet duty ratio: This shows the open/closed duty ratio being applied to the EGR inlet throttle (Y160) if fitted. The inlet throttle is used in addition to the EGR modulator (D164) to provide additional exhaust gas recirculation by restricting the inlet airflow, thereby increasing EGR. The control software in the TD5 ECU ensures that the inlet throttle is only driven in conjunction with EGR modulation.

Turbo wastegate duty ratio: Under turbo boost conditions the duty ratio being applied to the waste gate solenoid (N112) is shown. The higher the duty ratio the less air being bled away from the turbine blades hence the higher the boost pressure.

Idle speed error (rpm): Displays the difference between the target idle speed the ECU is trying to achieve and the actual

idle speed measured by the ECU. With the engine idling, the actual engine idle speed is coolant temperature dependent. Readings greater than + or - 15 rpm would indicate a mechanical problem with engine idle control. Typical values with engine idling are -5 to +5 rpm of the required idle speed.

Coolant temperature (°C): This shows the coolant temperature as measured by the TD5 ECU. This sensor (T121) is connected to the ECU by two wires, a pink / black wire on pin 18 of C0158 which goes to pin 1 of C0169 on the sensor itself and a pink / green wire on pin 7 of C0158 which goes to pin 2 of C0169 on the sensor. If the sensor fails, a default value of warm is displayed on the temperature gauge. Sensor faults may cause several symptoms including poor starting, fast idle speed, poor fuel consumption and cooling fans running continuously. A typical value with a fully warm engine is 88°C.

Air inlet temperature (°C): This shows the temperature measured by the TD5 ECU using the air inlet temperature sensor (T116). If fitted, this sensor is connected to the TD5 ECU by four wires on C0158. These wires are green / black on pin 34 which goes to pin 2 of C0567 on the sensor, white / yellow on pin 6, which goes to pin 4 of C0567 on the sensor, pink / black on pin 17, which goes to pin 1 of C0567 on the sensor and pink / purple on pin 8, which goes to pin 3 of C0567 on the sensor. If the sensor is open/short circuit, then a fixed default value of 25°C will be displayed. The inlet air temperature is used by the ECM to adjust the ignition timing at altitude. If the sensor is not operating correctly poor EGR and smoke control could result.

Fuel temperature (°C): The TD5 ECU has been designed to work with a wide range of possible fitments and options. Many of the input sensors and output controls can be omitted giving many vehicle option, model or market variants. This value indicates if this TD5 ECU has been programmed to use a fuel rail temperature sensor or not.

Power balancing RPM 1 to 5: In the manufacture of an engine there are unavoidable tolerances which vary. This means that each cylinder's power output relative to the others can be higher or lower than others. This imbalance shows up much more at lower engine speeds such as those encountered at idle. It can make the engine seem lumpy and rough especially under acceleration at low speeds when the power is used. Under normal operating conditions, this factor is compensated for by the cylinder balancing routine built in to the software of the TD5 ECU.

This value shows the adjustments in rpm being applied to individual cylinders by the TD5 ECU to achieve smooth running. With the engine idling, the fluctuations in cylinder speed in rpm from the nominal idle speed can be seen. However, you should note that values outside of the range will be seen if the engine speed is varied suddenly i.e. blipping the throttle.

Ian

[Nanocom]

Ive now got it set as an instrument.

I cannot see what sort of turbo pressure is 'normal' (I can see what its reading, but dont know if this is OK or not)

Manual is a guide to use the software and hardware but does not show what is acceptable.

Any suggestions please.

3rd gear, full throttle... under load - so up a hill.

You should be seeing about 1.01bar ish over atmospheric - so about 200/210mbar + on Nanocom, upto about 220mbar - much more and you will be hitting boost cut point on a Td5 depending on ambient temp.

Ian

[Nanocom]

That's interesting. Mine reads the right way round (but now doubting my memory!) but I've no difference in throttle response. I know there should be a distinct difference in response, never got round to checking why.

Was looking at Rovacom but the cost of the Nanocom won over.

You don't notice as much when you actually swap from high to low and the throttle responce swaps accordingly....

But if you run the low range throttle map in high range the throttle suddenly becomes very unresponsive!!

The other thing lacking with Nanocom is the files supplied.

Some people don't realise... but all Td5's are not the same.... There are roughly 65 different variants of fuel/variant file and 4 different ECU's just with the later flash type ECU's.

Rovacom comes with all of these files pre-loaded, so the range of things you can do is greater.... fo example flashing your own Land Rover with the lastest fuelling files for your Td5 (as long as it still runs the same ECU), or converting a post flash ECU to work on a earlier pre 2002 Td5 without flagging up fault codes when it runs (i.e. making it run correctly)

In saying that... you still can't knock it for the money....

Ian

[Dials/guages]

what sort of ££ Ian please

which type of TC do you use re size/length etc and which boss type on the Manifold

K Type - 3mm x 60mm Thermocouple - compression type fitting.

Pressure sensor can come with an adaptor to fit straight into a 300Tdi inlet manifold (once I've picked them up)

Gauge price - £140 (inc sensors and wiring, but no fitting kit) for people off here.

Fitting kits

- full 300Tdi EGR replacement kit (including genuine part none EGR Intercooler to inlet manifold pipe) and adaptor for pressure sensor - £35

- full Td5 EGR replacment kit with all adaptors - £65

Part kits avaliable.

All plus £6.00 for UK delivery

Ian