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Everything posted by Sharp

  1. That's great Western, thanks for your help
  2. I need to replace my calipers and would like some help finidng the right part number. I plan to rebuild the ones I have but need a cheap pair to see me until I have time to do it. I'm a bit confused on what to get. The vehicle is a 1998 300tdi 110 county, vin number WA147XXX. Discs are vented and the retainers are the spring type not the flat plate. The current calipers are Lockheed, I think the codes are LB10TY017AC and LB10TY018AC but I noticed from another thread that someone had the same code on their calipers and had non-vented discs. In any regard I want to refurb the ones I have so really just need to get hold of some cheap ones to get me back on the road. When I put my vin number into the LRWorkshop website it lists 7 different part numbers (listed below). The last two in the list are £36 each, does anyone know if these will fit? (RTC4998 and RTC4999). Any help much appreciated LR017738 Without lining, LH, Caliper assembly-front brake LR017742 Without lining, RH, Caliper assembly-front brake LR017748 Without lining, RH, Caliper assembly-front brake LR017752 Without lining, LH, Caliper assembly-front brake RTC3380 Without lining, RH, Caliper assembly-front brake RTC3381 Without lining, LH, Caliper assembly-front brake RTC4998 Without lining, RH, Caliper assembly-front brake RTC4999 Without lining, LH, Caliper assembly-front brake Pictures of the calipers that are on just now:
  3. That's great Western, thanks for that
  4. Does anyone know what the diameter of the holes on the front of the dumb irons are? I'm rebuilding mine and there was nothing much left of the front plate so not sure how big to make it. Cheers
  5. I had considered doing it myself after watching Mike's (Britannica Restorations) YouTube videos but ironically I decided against it to get it back on the road quicker. I'll see what they come back to me with but I might buy a cheap one off eBay and keep my old one with a view to repairing it without any time pressure
  6. Do you know anyone who refurbishes adwest boxes? I understood (perhaps incorrectly) that they were no longer in existence, or at least not refurbishing boxes anymore
  7. Thanks, I had read similar advice. Sadly I don't have a grand to spend on a new box at the moment, I thought going to a reputable dealer instead of ebay would be a bit safer but I wish I'd saved £100 and bought one off ebay now. My old adwest box is getting collected on Friday, I'm not sure whether to cancel it and keep it now. The replacement box looks aftermarket.
  8. First turn of the key today having fitted a refurbished steering box, new steering column and pipes and fluid is pouring out of where the steering column attaches. I've gone around the pipes with a piece of toilet paper and they're bone dry. Could this be something I've done? At the moment I'm just assuming the refurbished box is faulty.
  9. Thanks for getting back to me, I ended up ordering the correct bolt so hopefully should be with me soon. I've just realised today that you can input your vin number into the lrworkshop website and it highlights the parts that fit so hopefully I shouldn't get too scrambled up with codes next time!
  10. I'm looking for clarification on the part number for the two 1/2 inch UNF bolts that go through the panhard rod to chassis bracket as I've managed to order the wrong item. This is the item: From the remains of the two bolts they look the same but when I looked on lrworkshop there were two seperate parts listed, I ordered 253948 and BH608381 - https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-axles-suspension/front-suspension/radius-arms-links_52609#19 253948 looks corrent but BH608381 is incorrent (my mistake). I made a mistake with the year code and had meant to order BH608461. Given that 253948 looks like the correct bolt and looks the same as the ones I took out I'm tempted to order another one of those but I presume there is a reason why the parts are different. If anyone coud clarify or knows what the difference is I'd really appreciate it. They are all 1/2" diameter and the distance from the bottom of the bolt head to the tip of the 3 longer bolts is 6 1/4 inches.The vehicle is a 1998 300tdi defender 110 year code WA147XXX.
  11. Thanks for the replies. I've ordered up some new hoses. It always works out more expensive than you planned! What started as a steering box and a UJ, has become a steering box, steering column and pipes. Also had to get a 33mm socket to torque the drop arm up. Still, better to do it right once and then forget about it. Watch this space for requests for help with a knackered steering pump!
  12. I'm replacing my steering box and struggling to get the two unions off the top. I got the return one cracked ok with a 16mm spanner but the pipe is stuck to the nut and I can't seem to free it without damaging the pipe. A 14mm spanner on the feed union is quite sloppy but hopefully once I've got the first one off I will have better access. I was just wondering if I could use heat, obviously the old box is done but I'll be sending it back once it's off so I don't have to damage it.
  13. I recently repaired mine with a new skin and welded a replacement bottom section in and patches elsewhere. By the end of it I wish I'd just bought a new door it really wasn't worth it. Mine was a lot worse than yours, I wouldn't have thought there would be an "acceptable" repair other than welding a new piece in but you could clean up and paint to prevent it getting worse and put tackling it off for further down the line. The previous owner of my 110 used various non-welding solutions to rot, all of which trapped water and made the job more difficult when it came time to do a proper repair. If you're worried about strength then once you've cleaned up and painted the frame, fixing a sheet of metal/chequer plate as a cover for it will stiffen it up a bit more.
  14. Thanks for the help, I ended up going for a like for like replacement which was £50.
  15. The last pic I posted if the full assembly looks like exactly what's on the vehicle
  16. Its hard to tell from the pictures but looking again it looks like they are different parts, the listing looks like it's two pinch bolts to fit on two splines where as mine looks like a pinch bolt at the top and another fixing below. I wonder if I've got the wrong part number? Picture of upper UJ listed on lrdirect This listing looks to be the same as what is on the vehicle but I can't find a part for only the upper uj - www.paddockspares.com/qme500031-steering-shaft-including-joints-from-va133509.html Picture of the full assembly from the paddocks link:
  17. Looks like some unusual fasteners on the joint: a view of the whole joint
  18. I've been losing a little bit of steering fluid for a while now but after cleaning the engine bay it's needing attention a bit sooner than I thought it might so I've ordered a recon box from paddocks. The UJ at the top of the steering column (closest to the steering wheel) has quite a lot of play in it and I'm going to replace this at the same time. It looks like you can get the upper joint seperately (NRC7387) www.lrdirect.com/NRC7387-Steering-U-J-Dsrr-Late-Lower-90-110/ It's a 1998 300tdi 110, does anyone know if this will fit and if it's an easy enough job to do or do people usually just change the whole arm? The lower UJ doesn't seem to have any play in it and the steering box is an expense I could have done without at the moment so trying to keep costs down but I'm also hoping to be able to get the steering reasonably slop free so I'm happy to spend a little bit extra if it's going ot make the different. Also are there any other parts I might need to order while replacing the box and UJ? Thanks in advance video of play in UJ https://youtu.be/oqhz-3He0t8
  19. Panic over, it seems I didn't tighten the rocker on properly. The fixings all felt tight but must not have been on correctly once I started rotating the crank.
  20. I can't think what I've done wrong, there's so little I've put back on so far. I rotated the pistons to clean them but put them back to the exact same position they started in. Locating dowels in, HG on, head on, bolts in with air filter mount, followed the tightening proceedure, valve caps on, push rods seated, rocker shaft on
  21. Thanks Tesu0san. I took the little caps off to keep them safe but they're all back on. I kept the two bolts in the end holes of the rocker to keep it together and everything seemed to be moving nicely when I reassembled. I did guestimate the 5Nm initial torque before turning 50 degrees though as neither of my torque wrenches go down that low. I tightened up by hand initially to make sure it was pulled down and seated nicely then slackened the nuts and bolts, wound them down to contact, gave them a good nip with my hand around the socket then turned 50 degrees.
  22. Thanks western, Chris has a couple of videos I've watched, I watched Mike's (Britanicca Restorations) as well. I noticed in the videos though that the gaps only needed minor adjustment and was wondering if the large gap was normal after a HG change or if something is amiss
  23. I've just changed the headgasket on my 300tdi and following the workshop manual the next step is to adjust the valves. I've watched a few videos and believe I'm following the proceedure correctly but the gaps between the rockers and the valve caps seems huge. I rotated the engine with the crank (clockwise, not sure if it matters) until number 5 rocker went fully down (counting from the front). Then looking at the number 4 rocker there's a gap of about 1cm. The gaps are similar for all the rockers I looked at. When i've watched videos it's been quite a small adjustment needed, have I done something wrong or it the large gap due to having changed the headgasket? Head hasn't been skimmed and I replaced with the same thickness gasket that went on. Attempt to video it which hopefully shows what I'm talking about better than my mangled description - https://youtu.be/9t9ohLT5PLc
  24. Thanks monkie that's really kind. I've decided to treat myself and splash out on a new one
  25. Lovely clean set up! The ones I saw on ebay were about £100, for the orginal size one and the bigger ones as well. I've painted and tidied up a fair bit of the engine bay so I might have to bite the bullet and stick it on the credit card. Just out of interest what's the extra horizontal cooler you have in front of the radiator and intercooler assembly?
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