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Everything posted by Sharp

  1. You want torq-set bits (mortorq look similar). They work really well on all the large phillips head type screws on the defender like the ones that hold the floors down. You might have some already if you have one of those security bit sets like the picture below (far left top row).
  2. Have you checked your heater air intake is clear of water and draining properly?
  3. Thanks teabag, I'll order some up and refill it. Hopefully no damage done, reservoir was pretty empty this morning.
  4. I noticed my power steering was whining and when I checked this morning it had run dry. In a rush for work and I put a little bit of dot4 in. Should I top up with the correct fluid once I get hold of some or should I drain it all out first? It's a 1998 300tdi
  5. Thanks for the comments. I was initially looking for a van but after driving around the country looking at too many inaccurately described landrovers I ended up going for the best of them and I didn't come across any decent van backs. Well I came across one lovely red one but they wanted £9.5k for it and it had serious engine problems, madness. I've already poured quite a lot of work into this one as well and the thought of having to go through the process of buying and selling again would be painful!
  6. Not sure if you have a specific need for a LR one or not but the mercedes sprinter bottle jacks work well. There's one on ebay just now for £20, someone who obviously hasn't checked to see how much they're worth before listing as I think I paid a bit more for mine!
  7. Out of the leatherman's I would second Ed's vote for the skeletool, it has everything you need and it's a nice size. I used to work in a shop that sold leatheman's and the warranty is pretty quibble free. We had a customer bring their third skeletool back with a broken blade and they replaced them all. (It was quite obvious the blade had been used to pry something open.) Personally I usually carry small cheap pocket tools at work like the one below. It's no good if it's not in your pocket and the plier type tools are just a little bit big for me. I had a nice little knife a while back which was tiny but the blade was quite thick so it could be ground it into the shape of a screwdriver. The leatherman squirt ps4 is nice but it's too expensive to lose.
  8. I have a 1998 County 110 with about 160k on the clock and I've been putting a small camper conversion in the back. It was relatively untouched and everything was as stock when I got it so I've not made any major modifications and made sure anything I've added is reversible. Just wondering what people's thoughts are on how much value is kept by keeping everything orginal, for example the headlining board is in good condition but the fabric could probably do with replacing or cleaning but I'm considering taking it out completely and just carpet lining over the insulation I put in which would give me a couple of inches extra headroom in the back. I've also considered painting all the grey plastic a darker colour just for personal preference but I know that's not everyone's taste. I've still got all the rear seats and seat belt mounts and I'd thought when it comes time to sell her it would be good to have everything but I'm quite short on storage space. I was thinking if I sold the headlining boards and seat belt mounts (not sure how much either of these are worth?) then it would probably fund a bit of carpet and paint to finish sprucing up the inside. Not a particularly succinct quesion but I'd be interested to hear what people's thought's are on whether trying to keep all the original parts and colours is worth it or whether I'm unneccessarily inconveniencing myself. We're planning on moving house in the not too distant future and I'll probably end up selling it in a couple of years.
  9. There are plenty defenders advertised for those kind of £10-20k figures but I'm not sure how many actually move at that price. If that area of the bulkhead by the door hinges is rusty and the chassis is gone then a new chassis, bulkhead patching and new running gear might not bring it up to that value unless it's otherwise desirable. Do you trust your garage and their experience with defenders, do you want to sell it and make money or is it a keeper you're attached to? If the former then it sounds like a risk and your margins are going to be tight unless you're doing some of the work yourself. There are nice defenders out there for the £10k mark which would be your £3.5k sale price and £7k repair bill. Is £3.5k the amount they're offering you or the amount they think you'll get selling privately? If you spent £6k on it you might get more than £3.5k as a project, people are paying silly money for rotten defenders these days. I think there's a buzzweld centre near to you, they seem to be quite well regarded and might be able to offer you a second opinion.
  10. Britannica restorations has a few youtube videos on door seals which are worth watching.
  11. Sharp

    Roof Leaking?

    I ended up going quite heavy handed with the sealant about 6 months ago and I've been leak free since then, made a bit of a mess but I'm dry. It used to get me on the first corners of the day so I presume some of the water was coming in through the roof but the worst culprets for me were the windscreen seal, door seal and windscreen hinges/brackets. I was quite bought into captain tollys judging by the reviews but it didn't work for me, I think the gaps must have been too big for it to seal! It ended up peeling off like long strips of pva glue. I used different brands of polyrethane sealant (sikaflex, tiger seal etc.) and didn't really notice any difference between them. I ran a stiff nylon brush with some white spirit along all the seams on the roof and then filled in with tiger seal and smoothed off. It didn't look too bad and it wasn't raised up at all. I did around the outside edge of the sunroof seal as well and plastered vaseline around the where the glass meets the seal (I read somewhere of someone putting edge trim around the edge of the glass and that's on the list but it takes heavy directional rain to drip in now) My gutters were noticably cracked, these got sealed all the way along There's also the same stuff along the top of the windscreen Not sure if that leaks as badly but it got the same treatment
  12. I haven't done mine yet but I've got the fxliner kit from buzzweld - http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/fxliner-1k-crossmember-bumper-refurbishing-kit.html. The crossmember on mine is about 3 or 4 years old, it had been left with the original paint and I gave it a coating of dinitrol while I was doing the chassis just over a year ago. Probably an element of user error and I didn't put it on thick enough but it started rusting around the edges pretty quickly and is covered in surface rust now.
  13. Slightly odd question but I wondered if there is anyone here who has some knowledge of upholstery/foam. I've bought foam online a few times before for camper beds and despite being sold as dense or firm I've always had to buy about 4 or 5 inches to get anything that's ok to sleep on. I've just built a small bed in the back of the 110 and I noticed that the original bench seat cushions are only a couple of inches thick but are really firm and comfortable. Does anyone know where I might be able to get larger sections of this type of foam. I'm restricted for height and something of that thickness would be ideal. As I say, I have googled plenty and bought foam from various places before but almost all foam seems to be sold as high density/ultra firm but never actually seems to be.
  14. I did mine recently and just welded a large patch in as I had the steel lying around. It's a good time to have a good bash around your outriggers while you have access.
  15. I'm most likely going to be selling the landy at the end of the summer so I'd like to keep all the stuff to be able to put it back to stock. I'll let you know if I decide to sell them, they don't look to be that many about.
  16. The seats are long gone but the big tubular support inside was in the way of a cabinet I'm building so I wanted to remove it for more room. It looked like this: There is another support under the tub which attaches to the above pictured support on the bottom left underneath and runs down to the crossmember. I've taken it off as well now but I was just wondering if that was part of the seat belt mounting or whether it was another support for the tub that needs to stay in place.
  17. I'm taking the tubular seat belt mounts out of the back of a 1998 110 csw. There is a secondary tubular bracket that goes under the tub and connects onto the rear crossmember. From what I can see online this is sold as part of the inward facing seatbelt mount kit so I presume this can be removed. Does anyone know if it need to be put back for support? It's this bit:
  18. Thanks for the suggestions, had a chance to look at it yesterday and it just turned out to be the fuse for the controller. I must have touched the wires together and blown it while I was swapping over.
  19. South West, not quite sure where to go next. It's really difficult finding a garage you get on with, I hate dodgy MOT's and I'm not looking for anyone to do me any favours or cut corners but a little bit of common sense is apreciated. I took the subaru to an MOT testing centre last year that only does MOT's and no repair work, came back with a list of advisories the length of my arm, the most innane of which was some slight discolouration along the top of my front number plate (-Front registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread). Despite the high cost of repair work this garage didn't put that on the certificate and that meant the whole thing (including their retest fee!) was less than £100 and I have a nice clean MOT certificate. They also didn't fail the landy on the egr being blanked which from chatting to others is something which a lot of testers aren't pulling people up for - but you don't know until you've put it in. I think a strict MOT tester could go to town on most landys if they felt the need to. So I guess it's time to take a punt somewhere else and hope they dont' slap a dangerous fail on and present me with a massive bill that I can't drive it away to fix myself.
  20. To be fair to them they may have been quoting me for genuine subaru parts, which knowing subaru could well have been double. I've never been to a dealership before but I imagine they are just charging the same sort of prices as a dealer would, in other words it's just not a place for old rusty bangers any more.
  21. It was for a 2005 subaru outback, i didn't get an itemised quote so I don't know how they worked out the bill. The parts cost me just shy of £60 from a local independent parts shop and took a couple of hours including polishing the head light. I'm not a mechanic so I don't know what kind of time gets specified for these kinds of jobs but I can't see how it would have taken them that long with a lift and workshop tools.
  22. I've since stopped going to that garage anyway. They used to be good but they've gone all high tech and charging dealership prices now but the workmanship doesn't match the prices. I think they've had enough of old cars anyway! They quoted my partner £420 last week for a ball joint, two drop links, 4 bulbs and a headlight polish. I did question it and the receptionist told me that was actually quite cheap!
  23. No, I only shortened it by a couple of feet. I got the heater from someone on ebay and the loom was all nicely wired up with quite a long set of wires to the controller. I went back a couple of feet and reterminated the 4 wires there so haven't touched any other part of the loom. Foolishly I didn't even tunr it on to test it after I'd finished, just assuming I hadn't really changed anything so it would work as it had been doing!
  24. The bolts that came with the new kit were all oval shaped, I'm not sure if they're meant to be like this but I put the old ones back on anyway: I cleaned the inlet out with petrol and then washed it out with water and left it to dry off with a hair dryer pointed down it till it was dried and didn't smell of petrol anymore There was a film of something on the new gasket, I'm not sure if this should have been scrubbed off but I left it on All cleaned up and reassembling I took the cyclone breather out and cleaned it up with petrol along with the pipes that were on it. I replaced the oil breather down pipe as well I had bought a new rocker cover gasket and washers but I thought I'd run it a while before fitting it. The old one was nicely seated in and if it wasn't leaking from there I didn't want to disturb it too much. As it turned out it's not leaked from there so I'm glad I didn't mess around too much. I thought I had ordered a new O ring for the cyclone breather but I can't see that I've ordered it. I think I used one from an assorted box of orings and if i remember correctly it was a little thicker and made the breather a bit harder to put back on but it seems to have sealed it. The parts were these: exhaust manifold kit - ERR3785 breather pipe - the code on my order was LLH500170, I think the correct code is ERR3084 rocker cover gasket that i didn't fit - ERR2409 This is the box of o-rings I replaced the cyclone breather o-ring with, probably from amazon or ebay. I have a few different assorted boxes, although more often than not you find you have every size apart from the one you need!
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