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Sharp

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Everything posted by Sharp

  1. Sharp

    Roof Leaking?

    I ended up going quite heavy handed with the sealant about 6 months ago and I've been leak free since then, made a bit of a mess but I'm dry. It used to get me on the first corners of the day so I presume some of the water was coming in through the roof but the worst culprets for me were the windscreen seal, door seal and windscreen hinges/brackets. I was quite bought into captain tollys judging by the reviews but it didn't work for me, I think the gaps must have been too big for it to seal! It ended up peeling off like long strips of pva glue. I used different brands of polyrethane sealant (sikaflex, tiger seal etc.) and didn't really notice any difference between them. I ran a stiff nylon brush with some white spirit along all the seams on the roof and then filled in with tiger seal and smoothed off. It didn't look too bad and it wasn't raised up at all. I did around the outside edge of the sunroof seal as well and plastered vaseline around the where the glass meets the seal (I read somewhere of someone putting edge trim around the edge of the glass and that's on the list but it takes heavy directional rain to drip in now) My gutters were noticably cracked, these got sealed all the way along There's also the same stuff along the top of the windscreen Not sure if that leaks as badly but it got the same treatment
  2. I haven't done mine yet but I've got the fxliner kit from buzzweld - http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/fxliner-1k-crossmember-bumper-refurbishing-kit.html. The crossmember on mine is about 3 or 4 years old, it had been left with the original paint and I gave it a coating of dinitrol while I was doing the chassis just over a year ago. Probably an element of user error and I didn't put it on thick enough but it started rusting around the edges pretty quickly and is covered in surface rust now.
  3. Slightly odd question but I wondered if there is anyone here who has some knowledge of upholstery/foam. I've bought foam online a few times before for camper beds and despite being sold as dense or firm I've always had to buy about 4 or 5 inches to get anything that's ok to sleep on. I've just built a small bed in the back of the 110 and I noticed that the original bench seat cushions are only a couple of inches thick but are really firm and comfortable. Does anyone know where I might be able to get larger sections of this type of foam. I'm restricted for height and something of that thickness would be ideal. As I say, I have googled plenty and bought foam from various places before but almost all foam seems to be sold as high density/ultra firm but never actually seems to be.
  4. I did mine recently and just welded a large patch in as I had the steel lying around. It's a good time to have a good bash around your outriggers while you have access.
  5. I'm most likely going to be selling the landy at the end of the summer so I'd like to keep all the stuff to be able to put it back to stock. I'll let you know if I decide to sell them, they don't look to be that many about.
  6. The seats are long gone but the big tubular support inside was in the way of a cabinet I'm building so I wanted to remove it for more room. It looked like this: There is another support under the tub which attaches to the above pictured support on the bottom left underneath and runs down to the crossmember. I've taken it off as well now but I was just wondering if that was part of the seat belt mounting or whether it was another support for the tub that needs to stay in place.
  7. I'm taking the tubular seat belt mounts out of the back of a 1998 110 csw. There is a secondary tubular bracket that goes under the tub and connects onto the rear crossmember. From what I can see online this is sold as part of the inward facing seatbelt mount kit so I presume this can be removed. Does anyone know if it need to be put back for support? It's this bit:
  8. Thanks for the suggestions, had a chance to look at it yesterday and it just turned out to be the fuse for the controller. I must have touched the wires together and blown it while I was swapping over.
  9. South West, not quite sure where to go next. It's really difficult finding a garage you get on with, I hate dodgy MOT's and I'm not looking for anyone to do me any favours or cut corners but a little bit of common sense is apreciated. I took the subaru to an MOT testing centre last year that only does MOT's and no repair work, came back with a list of advisories the length of my arm, the most innane of which was some slight discolouration along the top of my front number plate (-Front registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread). Despite the high cost of repair work this garage didn't put that on the certificate and that meant the whole thing (including their retest fee!) was less than £100 and I have a nice clean MOT certificate. They also didn't fail the landy on the egr being blanked which from chatting to others is something which a lot of testers aren't pulling people up for - but you don't know until you've put it in. I think a strict MOT tester could go to town on most landys if they felt the need to. So I guess it's time to take a punt somewhere else and hope they dont' slap a dangerous fail on and present me with a massive bill that I can't drive it away to fix myself.
  10. To be fair to them they may have been quoting me for genuine subaru parts, which knowing subaru could well have been double. I've never been to a dealership before but I imagine they are just charging the same sort of prices as a dealer would, in other words it's just not a place for old rusty bangers any more.
  11. It was for a 2005 subaru outback, i didn't get an itemised quote so I don't know how they worked out the bill. The parts cost me just shy of £60 from a local independent parts shop and took a couple of hours including polishing the head light. I'm not a mechanic so I don't know what kind of time gets specified for these kinds of jobs but I can't see how it would have taken them that long with a lift and workshop tools.
  12. I've since stopped going to that garage anyway. They used to be good but they've gone all high tech and charging dealership prices now but the workmanship doesn't match the prices. I think they've had enough of old cars anyway! They quoted my partner £420 last week for a ball joint, two drop links, 4 bulbs and a headlight polish. I did question it and the receptionist told me that was actually quite cheap!
  13. No, I only shortened it by a couple of feet. I got the heater from someone on ebay and the loom was all nicely wired up with quite a long set of wires to the controller. I went back a couple of feet and reterminated the 4 wires there so haven't touched any other part of the loom. Foolishly I didn't even tunr it on to test it after I'd finished, just assuming I hadn't really changed anything so it would work as it had been doing!
  14. The bolts that came with the new kit were all oval shaped, I'm not sure if they're meant to be like this but I put the old ones back on anyway: I cleaned the inlet out with petrol and then washed it out with water and left it to dry off with a hair dryer pointed down it till it was dried and didn't smell of petrol anymore There was a film of something on the new gasket, I'm not sure if this should have been scrubbed off but I left it on All cleaned up and reassembling I took the cyclone breather out and cleaned it up with petrol along with the pipes that were on it. I replaced the oil breather down pipe as well I had bought a new rocker cover gasket and washers but I thought I'd run it a while before fitting it. The old one was nicely seated in and if it wasn't leaking from there I didn't want to disturb it too much. As it turned out it's not leaked from there so I'm glad I didn't mess around too much. I thought I had ordered a new O ring for the cyclone breather but I can't see that I've ordered it. I think I used one from an assorted box of orings and if i remember correctly it was a little thicker and made the breather a bit harder to put back on but it seems to have sealed it. The parts were these: exhaust manifold kit - ERR3785 breather pipe - the code on my order was LLH500170, I think the correct code is ERR3084 rocker cover gasket that i didn't fit - ERR2409 This is the box of o-rings I replaced the cyclone breather o-ring with, probably from amazon or ebay. I have a few different assorted boxes, although more often than not you find you have every size apart from the one you need!
  15. Just an update on this in case it helps anyone, it's pretty much been a success and 5 months on the engines still looking pretty clean although I still have a very slight weep from the exhaust manifold gasket. This was the old one: It was quite an easy job and I followed the instructions from this - https://youtu.be/kB5onEGqm7c. It was quite a mess and I spent a lot of time cleaning out the holes and cleaning up the surface with a stanley knife blade, brake cleaner and scotch brite. I forgot to resize my images and even though I've deleted the big files it's not letting me upload anymore so I'll post the rest again.
  16. Having some issues with my webasto thermo top c after shortening the cables to the controller and I was hoping someone might be able to help me figure out what's wrong. This is a picture of the controller before I shortened the wire: I disconected the battery, chopped the cable and crimped new terminals on. I don't really have any reason to doubt the connections aren't sound, it's the correct crimping tool for the terminals and the right size terminals for the wire. I can see the wire in contact with the metal and the wires are all solidly crimped in place. Not sure if there's anything else I should be concerned about with the connections I've made? They were a little stiffer to push onto the male spade terminals than the original blue ones but at the time I didn't think I was using a level of force which would have caused any damage. During normal operation, when put into the on position the red light on the controller goes on. I'm not sure if this is something that happens as a result of the heater giving feedback to the controller that it is working or whether the light comes on whenever the controller is in the on position? The red light is not coming on now when I switch it to the on position. This is a picture of the front of the controller. I have run through the webasto reset proceedure, I can't remember off the top of my head what it is but I followed the instructions which are something along the lines of remove the main fuse, wait ten seconds, turn on etc. This hasn't had any effect. Does anyone have any suggestions? My initial thoughts were my connections were bad, I've damaged the controller somehow or I have somehow put the unit into lock down. If anyone has one of these controllers or knows how they work I would be grateful to know whether the red light comes on regardless of whether it is connected to a working machine. If it does then that would point to the controller having been damaged. I assume there is a way of connecting the wires together to make the heater work without the controller but my aimless effort touching the terminals together was fruitless. I'd be grateful of any suggestions as to what I can do to see what the problem is. Thankfully it's been T-Shirt weather today but I'd like to get it working again before the winter is out.
  17. I feel a bit silly now but looking again I think it's probably from the lift!
  18. Just a quick question for the MOT gurus on here. Is it acceptable for an MOT tester to use a hammer other than the small MOT hammer that's made for testing corrosion. I'm only asking out of curiosity as after my last MOT there were about half a dozen imprints of a hammer head quite a bit bigger than that on the bottom of the chassis rails, all in one place on each side. It's quite solid where he chose to hit so nothing went through but it looked like he'd let out a fair bit of anger on it.
  19. No way, I was thinking about this the other day while I was filing a partiularly bad stone nick out of a pretty new chainsaw chain while the reciprocating air saw sat on the bench. Looks like it worked a treat.
  20. I can't quite see the pictures very well on my screen but galvanic corrosion is going to happen where dissimilar metals meet and it tends to bubble up underneath. That's not to say someone hasn't sanded it down but with it's location it doesn't look like it. It's a common non metalic colour and quite accessible, the sill will come off easily and once you've taken the arch off you should be able to clean it up, etch prime it and touch it up to a decent standard. It's worth checking whether the MOT's were all done at the same place, if there's no advisories on a land rover then it's because someone hasn't picked them up not because they don't exist 😛 Pick up backs are quite hard to come by that haven't been ragged around a farm all their life but I can't help you with the value sorry.
  21. Oops, thanks for checking my calculations! By the sounds of it 27mpg is pretty typical
  22. Cheers for everyone's replies. It's subjective but I think I tend to drive pretty gently and economically. The engines pre-heated in the winter as well, from a seperate fuel tank. Most of my daily journey is on roads where it's easy enough to keep at 40-50mph without dropping too much speed for corners and such like, need to stop for half a dozen junctions and two short 30mph zones. Tyres are about 35 front 40 rear if i recall correctly, general grabber AT2's 235/85 on 16s
  23. I decided to check my mpg at the pump last night and over 385 miles from full I put 65l back into the tank, which I work out at 14.28 UK gallons. I make that 25mpg but reading through various posts on here and other forums I've seen people claiming closer to 30mpg. I saw someone claim 40 in a hard top. Is that wishful thinking by some people or am I getting less miles out of a tank than I should? Usually trips of 30 miles on a roads, pretty much unladen with just me and maybe 50kg cargo, egr blanked and 150k on the clock.
  24. I'm pretty sure I'm tapped into the right line but there will be no harm in double checking, I've been known to make sillier errors! In a perfect world I wouldn't be stopping the fuel but then again in a perfect world I'd leave my car unlocked. The trouble with off the shelf solutions is a few minutes on google will give you all the info you need to bypass them. My fuel return pipes are quite worn so I've ordered some up, perhaps they're just too old and brittle to handle the back pressure.
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