Sharp
-
Posts
229 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Sharp
-
-
Oops, should work now missed out the capitals
-
I had this issue when replacing my power steering pipes. Mine didn't snap off they just spun in place and it was quite hard to grind the heads off without damaging anything. One of the curved metal tabs was fine and bent back into shap ok but the other was toast. I ended up securing one side with those rubber covered p-clips and tek screws which seems to have held up ok.
-
Does anyone know what the issue might be with my clutch pedal or where would be a good place to start to look? Video probably easier than me trying to describe it:
-
I've repainted a few aluminium panels, floors and the box section from the midrow seats. My first attempt flaked off in places because I didn't abrade the aluminium properly so definitely give it a good going over with scotch brite or sanding and degreasing. The hardest wearing finish I've had was quite a quick job on the floor panels brushed on with thinned down paintman etch primer then 2 coats of buzzweld 1 gloss brushed on. I took the old finish off with a flapdisc and then degreased it before painting. Seems to have held up ok but they've not had much bashing around to be fair. You want quite a thin coat of etch primer, it's easy to overdo it with a brush. I've not used bedliner before, it looks like it would be harder to clean than a gloss finish but I don't know.
Driveallnight, you will need to prime any bare aluminium with etch primer and abrade any good existing paintwork that you want to paint over. I've used spray on etch primer on panels with some existing paintwork still on them and not had any adverse reactions but I don't know if that's the correct thing to do. If you have areas of white corrosion then you will want to remove as much as you can.
-
1
-
-
I used rivets to put mine back together, no issues with clearance.
-
1
-
-
In addition to the great advice above I'd just say if it's had any treatment on before, then the paint stripping discs work well for old paint and treatments. Sometimes the wire wheels smear old undercoat and dried on grease around instead of removing it. On straight sections of the chassis rail, solvent or heat and a scraper are sometimes quicker. I also found coating the chassis in degreaser first and thouroughly pressure washing underneath took quite a lot off and made it a lot more bearable and easier to see when it came to grinding. Most of my chassis stripping was done with abrasives but I did my front axle seperately with everything off it and most of the work on that was done with hot water, brushes and fx degreaser followed by a pressure wash. It needed very little attention with the grinder after that. Getting into the nooks and crannies is quite hard with a grinder, a needle scaler and the thin twisted wire brushes on a drill or die grinder work well: this is good - https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/2224509101.html and has held up better than you'd expect from the look of it. Also you can get the below from ebay, variously called narrow/pencil/end 25mm brushes, only ever seen them from china and just used them slow but they get places other things wont, you can put some pressure on them and they cut through old paint and rust whereas the non twisted ones can sometimes skate over the top and splay out.
I've used rust encapsulator on for the undercoat on my chassis, don't know how good it will turn out to be but it's nice to apply with a brush and it sticks well and flats out nicely. Not sure how many people do it but I'm a big fan of painting the chassis with a brush, probably my lack of skill but I find it easy to miss bits with a shutz gun and painting it all by hand shows up any areas that I haven't prepped properly. I thought I'd been pretty thorough but I got rewarded with a dirty brush a few times and it gave me chance to make sure I'd got it all properly cleaned. Plus, for me, spending a day crawling around with a paint brush and the radio on beats half a day masking up then the other half crawling around with a mask and shutz gun listening to the compressor (and the evening cleaning the gun!)
-
2
-
-
Mine aren't quite as bad as your's but sanded mine down inside, saturated in rust converter, painted and then put off for another day. It's only hitting pause so you might be better doing it before you start building cupboards in. There's a good guide here -
-
The job ended up taking longer than I'd hoped (as usual), mainly due to disturbing a brake line which led me along the usual road of exponential repairs but it was unpleasant removing the old one to say the least. I'm reasonably happy with the outrigger and how it's turned out. I ended up replacing the bottom part of the footwell, I was being blindly optimistic when I thought it was in good enough condition to save! I supported the chassis either side of where the radius arm mounts and also under the dumb iron then I cut a bit of 2x4 to fit snugly under the bulkhead and whacked it in. I was worried the wood wouldn't be enough to support it but it seems to have worked ok. This was the end of day one of cutting away the armour plating which it's previous owner had bequeathed:
I'm no welder but the repairs seemed pretty poor to me, sadly it didn't seem to make it any easier to remove. The bottom of the outrigger had been welded shut which held water and rusted the chassis rail up.
I had planned to cut a flush repair section for the chassis rail but in the end I just cut the rust out and plated up over the top of it then shaved 2mm off the new outrigger and welded to the repair section. The outrigger had rusted out a little at the top two corners but in the end I still managed to keep a section of the top of it which I bent up and welded onto the top of the new one. For the holes in the top corners I cut tiny pieces of metal to fit in the gaps then welded them up. Access at the corners was ok but I'm glad I cut the footwell.
It's not the prettiest of jobs but it seems strong enough. I haven't used my welder much recently and I've been struggling to get consistent welds from it. I had been thinking my liner might be shot but by the end of the job I was getting nice beads so it was probably just me! I watched Mike's outrigger repair vids from Britannica Restorations and his welding is stunning.
Originally there was a triangular section with a large hole in the middle which sits in the gap between the outrigger, chassis rail and radius arm support. On pictures and videos of repairs I've seen online this has been missing. The previous owner had plated over the top of it but it was a poor job and had all rusted through. I was going to leave it but I'm glad I removed it now because it would have rotted out properly soon enough and the support arm was solid underneath.
I'm wondering whether I should cover it back up or whether it's strong enough as it is. I made some templates before I cut it out so I have the angles to do it if I have to. Pretty much every picture online I've seen doesn't seem to have this piece in place and I couldn't find an example of what it looked like. Forgive the crude drawing but this is vaguely what it would have been like originally:
Interested in any advice on how important that support is and whether it's worth redoing it. It's a 1998 110
-
The first recon box I got was absolute dog **** and looked cheap and nasty, it leaked straight away which was probably a blessing in disguise as the next one I got was an adwest box and looked good as new. If it's not leaking and your steering is ok then replacing it with anything other than a new adwest box carries a risk of making things worse.
-
1
-
-
Not sure if this helps or not but I recently replaced my steering box and lower steering column and still have about the same amount of play as you're describing with the engine on or off. Nothing I'm concerned about but all my running gear and ball joints are in good order and I assume it's either just the way it is or the upper steering column. I had someone rock the steering wheel with the wheels off the ground and me looking over all the joints and it was quite obvious there was play in the lower steering column before I changed it.
-
I ended up removing the accelerator pedal which came off quite easily, with good access through the air intake in the wing. The cable was just split pinned in so the whole pedal came out without too much faff. The clutch and brake pedals sit quite high and weren't too much trouble to work around but the accelerator sat quite low and it made it a lot easier with it removed. Thanks to all for the advice, much appreciated
-
Thanks for the quick reply. I had suspected that, I think it will probably be less hassle to leave them in place and accept welding will be a little more awkward
-
I'm replacing my drivers side footwell and wanted to take the pedals out for better access to weld the new panel in. It doesn't look particularly easy to remove them so I think I'll just work around them but thought I'd ask in case I was missing something and there's an easyish way to remove/move some of them. After disturbing the brake pipe while replacing my outrigger I've ended up having to replace all the rear brake lines and both rear calipers (which had to be cut off). My appetite for faffing around removing rusted parts has been well and truly depleted but it would be a lot easier to weld if the pedals weren't there!
-
You can get slitting discs that are made for cutting ali. I'm not sure how high the risk is but I've been told that abrasive discs can clog up and shatter when they get hot. My guess would be that if you're careful and not leaning into the cut so it clogs and gets hot then it'll be fine but the ali discs aren't much more expensive so I always have some in and they work nicely as well. The recip would probably do it to be honest, I've been surprised how straight a good blade cuts if it's a flat piece of metal but like you say they're brutal beasts and I'd be worried it would jump and make a mess.
-
Thanks for that. I hadn't thought about supporting the door pillar so that could save me a lot of hassle! I've got a few dry days off so I'm going to have a look at it tomorrow, hopefully not have any nightmares. I can always just weld a replacement panel into the footwell if needs be.
Thanks again
-
Looking for a bit of advice on replacing my drivers side outrigger. It's had quite a few poor repairs in the past which have made it quite hard to see what condition the chassis is in below. I'm assuming the worst. I was planning to cut the existing outrigger leaving a protusion to weld to at the top, as suggested in one of the Britannica Restorations videos. Upon closer inspection there's a hole in the top of the current outriigger so it looks like this wont be possible.
I'll take the radius arm off and I'm considering cutting the the floor to give me better access. I'll be using a mig. Has anyone done this or have any advice? It strikes me that access to the top of the chassis rail will still be quite difficult. I cut out the passenger footwell last year and replaced with a sheet of 2mm steel but the drivers side is sound. If I cut it out with a thin slitting disc at both sides then I'm not sure how easy it will be to weld back together given I wont be able to butt the pieces up to each other without a gap. Would a jigsaw take away less material or will this be less of a problem than I envisage? I know it's double skinned as well so I presume I'll have to weld it back up from the underside as well.
I've welded a few repairs before, mostly patches and I have redone my C pillar and dumb irons but my welding isn't fantastic and it's a reasonably big job for me so any advice is much appreciated.
-
I went to town on my 110 with PU adhesive a while back and although not the prettiest solution it has stopped all my leaks. There was a spongy type sealant in the gutters of mine and on all the joins in the roof that looked like it was from the factory that had degraded and cracked. Just to the left of the gutter in the picture below you can see where the windscreen curves down, I did all around that section as well:
I rubbed it down with some sandpaper then brake cleaner then two beads of sealant and smoothed down with a finger left a nice groove:
It's around the sunroof and all the joins in the roof panels you can feel it soft if you press it:
I used about two tubes of tiger seal or sikaflex can't remember which and so far so good. It goes kind of white after a while a bit like when rubber blooms but it's done the job
-
Nice one, thanks for your help
-
I understand the brake pipe fittings are 10x1mm and I have both long and short shoulder male fittings but they look different to what I've taken off. Does anyone know if the new ones will be ok? They go on ok but the thread doesn't go all the way to the bottom
-
That's great Western, thanks for your help
-
1
-
-
I need to replace my calipers and would like some help finidng the right part number. I plan to rebuild the ones I have but need a cheap pair to see me until I have time to do it. I'm a bit confused on what to get. The vehicle is a 1998 300tdi 110 county, vin number WA147XXX. Discs are vented and the retainers are the spring type not the flat plate. The current calipers are Lockheed, I think the codes are LB10TY017AC and LB10TY018AC but I noticed from another thread that someone had the same code on their calipers and had non-vented discs. In any regard I want to refurb the ones I have so really just need to get hold of some cheap ones to get me back on the road.
When I put my vin number into the LRWorkshop website it lists 7 different part numbers (listed below). The last two in the list are £36 each, does anyone know if these will fit? (RTC4998 and RTC4999). Any help much appreciated
LR017738
Without lining, LH, Caliper assembly-front brakeLR017742
Without lining, RH, Caliper assembly-front brakeLR017748
Without lining, RH, Caliper assembly-front brakeLR017752
Without lining, LH, Caliper assembly-front brakeRTC3380
Without lining, RH, Caliper assembly-front brakeRTC3381
Without lining, LH, Caliper assembly-front brakeRTC4998
Without lining, RH, Caliper assembly-front brakeRTC4999
Without lining, LH, Caliper assembly-front brakePictures of the calipers that are on just now:
-
That's great Western, thanks for that
-
1
-
-
Does anyone know what the diameter of the holes on the front of the dumb irons are? I'm rebuilding mine and there was nothing much left of the front plate so not sure how big to make it.
Cheers
-
I had considered doing it myself after watching Mike's (Britannica Restorations) YouTube videos but ironically I decided against it to get it back on the road quicker. I'll see what they come back to me with but I might buy a cheap one off eBay and keep my old one with a view to repairing it without any time pressure
Clutch Pedal Issue
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks I'll have a check in the morning. It's a 1998 300tdi 110 with the r380 box