Sharp
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Posts posted by Sharp
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The water bucket is about a foot higher than the heater. Can you confirm what you mean about water coming out of the exhaust. I hold the pipes up, fill them with water and then before turning the heater on the water drains down the pipes and out of the exhaust - is that really normal?
The only instructions I could find were the installation ones translated from german for fitting into the TD5, I couldn't find any others.
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Damn birds
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Looks like running it dry has killed it, water dripping out of the exhaust pipe from the pump when I fill the pipes and I'm guessing that's not normal!
Didn't seem to want to start fully yesterday anyway although I did get some spluttering from the water pump it never fully kicked into action and then it shut down. I'd noticed the water out of the exhuast yesterday but paying a little bit more attention today it was literally a case of watching the water level go down in the pipes while it exited through the exhaust before I'd even pressed the on button. Anyway, not going to get another chance to do anything with it now till after Christmas, wish I'd never bought the bloody thing!
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I just replaced my screen and considered getting a heated one for the future but decided against it in the end. Insurance excess was £75 and a local is replacing it today for £85 but he seemed to think a decent heated screen would be considerably more even without the wiring. I believe it doesn't affect your no claims bonus but I'm wary of insurance companies, any excuse to weedle out of a claim when the sh*t hit's the fan. At renewal they always ask "have you had an accident in x years" and if somethings hit your windscreen and cracked it the answer is yes in my eyes regardless of no claims.
My insurance company only let you use auto-glass, I'm guessing this is because so many people try to get new windows out of insurance companies that they've got wise to it and only use companies that won't screw them over instead of the local independent who people would slip a few quid for an upgrade.
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My landy leaks quite a lot and I've never had "oil leak" as an advisory so there's a chance that it's just a picky MOT technitian but there's certainly things to investigate there. The inadequate repair sounds like a bodger and corrosion (crossmember) could potentially be an expensive job. As I mentioned above, why have they waxoyled over corrosion? Have a look through previous MOT's as well, if the same advisories crop up then you're buying from someone who clearly didn't give their landy regular maintenance and you might just be taking on all the problems they couldn't be bothered fixing properly.
I presume they're going to get it a fresh MOT for purchase, if it doesn't have one already then you haven't got long to test drive it before it's MOT runs out.
If you're really keen on that one then at least you've got a lot of bargaining chips.
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Thanks so much Simon, that's really helpful. I had no idea about the water pump, I pre-filled the diesel pipe but didn't think about the water.
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I'd be careful recommending people don't need to tell their insurance, there are certainly some insurance companies that don't insure cat d's. My insurance would but they would have put my premium up considerably. I imagine if you crash and you haven't told your insurance then you will quickly find out you're not insured.
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I got it a while back as a refurbished unit but for various reasons I've not managed to fit it yes. i set it up for testing and can't see where I'm going wrong, it's hooked up to a strong battery and connected as per the instructions. I've never usedd one before so I'm not sure what it's meant to do, the first time I fire it up after a rest it buzzez for a bit then the pump kicks in, gets faster, coughs a bit, makes some horrible noises and then dies. After that it runs horribly rough and never seems to spark. I've uploaded a couple of videos of it if anyone is feeling charitable and offering some advice that would be much apreciated
https://youtu.be/XIAt_H2GgQw
https://youtu.be/69_7lSl4LP4 -
I was in a similar position to you about a year ago with a similar budget but was looking for a county 110. I can only echo what everyone else has said about looking at and driving as many examples as you can and preferably taking someone with you that has some experience. I would say that unfortunately 90% of the people/dealers I met told at least one bare faced lie and tried to pull the wool over my eyes in one way or another. Not sure where you are but I'm in SW Scotland if you look at one anywhere around here let me know and I'll come and view one with you. I can recomend an honest and knowledgable dealer near rossendale if you're near there as well, he would charge but it's peace of mind and if you don't end up taking the one you go to see you will have learned enough to look at more on your own. I looked at nearly 20 defenders over about 6 months before I settled on one and even then I've ended up with work to do that I hadn't caught during a couple of inspections. Do all the usual vin checks before parting with any cash, check it's MOT history online to see what kind of life it's had and the RAC check to make sure it's legit, don't buy from anywhere other than the address on the v5 if it's a private sale.
I'm not sure I can really summarise what to look for but for £9k you should be getting a good example and I'd want a service history of some kind for that amount of money. The centre rails of the chasis are the most visible but are less likely to be bad, have a good crawl around in the dirt with a magnet and check over the rear crossmember, outriggers and bulkhead. Look into waxoiling, a good job isn't as simple as spraying some waxoyl around but that will hide a multitude of sins so don't assume it's fine because its been waxoyled. A lot of buyers would prefer to see it in it's untreated state to assess it properly so ask yourself why they've done it recently? Out of the goodness of their hearts or to hide something.
I'm happy with my 300tdi, it's got enough oomph for me, easy to work on and the parts are cheaper. The TD5's are great engines though, more fun to drive and still workable on at home. Most engine issues on the 300 are easy enough to fix, check for any sign of head gasket failure and if there's any sign it's been overheated in the past walk away. They're pretty bomb proof but with your budget you shouldn't really be getting one with black smoke pouring out the back, knocks/bangs, serious oil leaks etc. It should run nicely.
Anyway good look, it's a nice looking landy but if you don't end up with that one then there will definitely be another just around the corner which you'll want just as much!
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Cheers for everyone's replies, I hadn't thought the police would be interested to be honest but I'll give them a call. The last time I called to report someone breaking my house window I felt like I was wasting their time and no one ever came round. The local police station now just sits empty and I did hear a bobby joke that it's mostly used for toilet calls when they're passing through! I guess times have changed but there's no harm in reporting it.
In the mean time I've upped security pretty substantially, I just wish we were allowed more painful deterrants to theives as I've daydreamed about a number of interesting solutions...
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Cheers for everyone's suggestions, the secondary pipe looks like the best solution. I've not had much time to work on it over the last couple of weeks and I think for the time being I'm just going to Tee off the fuel line before the pump and look into making a more permenant solution later on.
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Worrying update. Alarm stopped working around the same time and I just checked the fuse to find it's missing. No way the alarm could have worked without the fuse previously and I certainly didn't take it out. It's often unlocked while I'm in and out of the house getting tools so all I can think is someone's snuck in at some point and removed it.
Anyway, currently adding extra security and will be leaving it at work till it gets fitted.
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Yeah that was my worry. If it was just the fuel cap I'd have thought kids messing around but the mudflap makes it feel targetted which is pretty rubbish. I live in a pretty quiet place of a small rural town and there's very few landys around that aren't farm vehicles. Going to have to think about security a little more but it's on the street outside my house so I'm restricted in what I can do. Its right outside my bedroom window though so I'm surprised I didn't hear anything. I was looking into secondary alarms that chirp when someone's close by but its the main dog walking route into the woods so I don't want it going off all the time.
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Lack of dash lights suggests a faulty ignition switch.
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Down in D & G, hope you're enjoying the snow up there!
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you may need some of these if the hinges haven't been off before! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Door-Hinge-To-Bulkhead-Captive-Flanged-Nuts-x8-BYH500100/201857772388?epid=688121689&hash=item2effa92b64:g:iR8AAOSwB-1YzRkZ
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forget that, doh. i imagine you will only need to do the door side
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Just a short rant. Went out to the landy yesterday and some **** have stolen my fuel cap and taken off one of my mud flaps and the bracket. Such a weird combination of things to nick. At first I only noticed the fuel cap so just thought it had been kids seeing a non-locking fuel cap and throwing it into the bushes but taking the mud guard seems more targetted. Doesn't look like any fuel was siphoned, I was quite low anyway but I'll drain the tank today just to be on the safe side in case anythings in there that shouldnt' be.
Got enough jobs to do and money to spend on her without faffing around with the work of vandals, hope that's the last of it.
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I've just changed mmy hinges and you can wiggle the door a little while the bolts are loose. It's pretty straight forward but if you have a door that doesn't leak and you move it down you might find it starts leaking at the top. Can you move the roof rack attachment forwards or backwards so it's not in line with the door?
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Cheers everyone. Landy-Novice, how flexible is the pipe you've got? I've never had my hands on one but from the picture the pipe looks like it's pretty bendy, not sure if it would have enough to turn back on itself or not. That would be an easy solution for me I think, I have some thick rubber i could shape and use to clamp it onto the filler neck pipe if it would bend enough to snake it's way down.
Oops again, it's a 110 - I should really have put better details of what vehicle it is. I will have a scope on my tank for the return pipe but it looks a lot easier to access in the 90. Thanks for the picture and part numbers. I'm starting to move back towards just teeing it into the fuel line as an option, it's certainly the cheapest and i guess it can be undone pretty easily.
Can't wait to get it up and running, I never learn that things always take longer than I planned. Fitting the under wing washer bottle meant taking the coolant pipes, intercooler pipes and power steering reservoir off to wiggle it in and then I managed to smash the top off the egr valve off so ended up fully removing that. I'm going to work out a run for the pipes for the coolant tomorrow if the rain eases up a little. Lots of bends by the looks of it.
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Thanks for your responses. Sorry I should have said it's a 98 300tdi. I'm going to be quite short for time up until Christmas so dropping the tank to fit a new stand pipe is a less attractive option, although it's a reasonably new tank so probably wouldn't be too much bother. It is quite a long run compared to teeing it near the engine bay, I'll have a look and see if I can find out what the correct ID is. The pipe that connects to the webasto is tiny so I assumed that using any larger thickness pipe and then reducing it before the unit would be fine.
FYI is there anything special about stand pipes or is it just a piece of bent pipe through a threaded hole? Just wondering if there is any reason for using one instead of poking some flexible fuel line down into the tank.
Thanks for your help
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Hi
Working through my webasto install and so far I've put a new washer bottle in and made a mount for the heater in the engine bay where the old one was. I'm hoping to connect up the coolant pipes later in the week and run it for a while to make sure everything's as it should be before connecting it up but I'm still deciding on how to supply fuel to it. I'd rather not tee into the main fuel line for a couple of reasons, one I might install an air heater in the future and I'd rather have a dedicated feed for both rather than tapping into the fuel line twice. The second I can't really disclose on a public forum but you can probably guess.
I've seen a nice metal insert which goes into your fuel filler neck rubber hose with a long pick up that stretches into the fuel tank but unfortunately they're £70. I've attached a couple of pictures.
I'd like to make something up myself and have the following options.
1. bodge - drill a small hole in the rubber filler neck and poke a flexible fuel line down from there into the tank. Tape up with self amalgamating tape
2. buy a small slimline fuel pick up (picture below) and attach it straight through the rubber filler neck hose
3. Buy a piece of metal pipe and the above fuel pick up. Attach fuel pick up to pipe and then flexible fuel hose to the other side going into the fuel tank
Does anyone have any advice on whether any of those might work? I'm thinking of opting for option 2 provided there's no problem with having a flexible hose in the tank. If that's an issue it might end up just having to buy one although some of the normal fuel pick up pipes look like they're made of bendy pipe which would work well (last picture)
Thanks for any advice
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Thanks Simon, good to know that the later pumps are all the same. I had come across the single pump under wing tanks and it had confused me, i presume some vehicles share a pump? Anyway I found a brand new under wing tank with two holes in for £25 so snapped that up as the delears all seemed to charge the best part of £100. Looks like I'd have been better buying one with the pumps in. I've got lots of photos and part numbers so hopefully once the heaters installed I'll do a quick write up and it will help others sourcing the parts...I notice on rimmer bros there's 21 different pumps for defenders and a similar amount of blanking plugs and grommets so it's a bit of a mine field!
Do you recall whether the original electrical connector fitted onto the new pump or did you have to buy a new connector? I read on one post that someone had had to buy econoseal plugs to make the new pumps work but a quick google and they look similar to what is fitted already so perhaps they had an older pump to start with.
Thanks for everyones help
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Thanks western, £13 a pop though :s do you know if they're larger grommets than are on the pumps I have. Also do you think the newer pumps come with the grommets already as if they do it would probably make more sense to get new pumps.
Thanks
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I'm in the process of fitting a webasto heater to my 300tdi defender 110 and at the stage of moving the washer bottle. I bought an under wing bottle to replace the standard one and I've discovered that the holes for the pumps are much larger in the new bottle. I'm going to try and bodge them in today but wondered if anyone knew if there was a better solution and what would be needed to sort it. I've seen people that have used external pumps and blanked off the holes and also people that have used new pumps with a different connector.
The washer bottle I bought said it came from a tdci, I'm not sure if this is the same as the td5 or if they're different. Does anyone know what pump would fit and whether there is anything else I would need.
Thanks in advanceadvance
Pheasants!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I was too busy de-glassing my eyes to notice!