Sean.
-
Posts
50 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Everything posted by Sean.
-
Hello all, I'm looking to replace the head light wiring loom / section, as I have now got another little wiring issue with the dip lights staying on. I imagine it's an earth wire caught / snagged ect. Can't turn the dip lights off without either pulling the fuse or battery. I could spend hours tracing cables and checking for shorts, I'd rather just replace that section and be done with it. Where is the best place to get the wire to make it myself or where can I get this part of the loom? I don't want to repalce all of it at the moment. As that would be £450, and an eight week wait. Thanks.
-
Hi TimC1967, Thank you for those. FridgeFreezer where did you get the first one from, as that's very helpful, seeing what connects and where the wires actually go to. Snagger, The internal light was a red herring, as the wire was not even connected to anything after I pulled down the head lining I found that out. I've connected the horn and it works as expected. There is a wire from one of the plus in the engine bay that seems to have caused this. I've connected a couple so far, I need to get some more wire to jumper them. Once I know, I can either clip it, when I know what it does or get a new loom if it can't be found easily to repair.
-
After pulling down the headlining, the interior lamp was connected to nothing... Just the correct wire. Oh well, LED one to be installed now I guess. Issue found, when I unplugged the trail board / tow bar power the connectiosn seemed to have some browning. Looks like an electrical short has happened. No explaination as to why. I will go over the cable and see where it is. Timc - which book do you have? I've got the Haynes Restoration Manual by Lindsay Porter. I can't find a circuit diagram in this one. Red with a yellow tracer - need to check what this one does Small red - need to check what this one does Purple - PITA Green with a white tracer - this is for the offside e.g. drivers side back indicator
-
Yes, that's the situation or test case. The internal light has never worked since I've had it. I've been trying to get that fixed as well I'm going to unplug the connector in the morning, when the rain stops! I will then post back. Thank you everyone for your help so far.
-
A trailer board so that I can fix that on to the back of a trailer, and then plug the trailer board in to the port on the back of the car.
-
I do have a new trailer board tow bar, would that be of use in testing in anyway?
-
It does not have a rear light or wiper connected. I will look at the tow bar socket and see if I can disconnect that then.
-
The items seem to match the fuses, if I take out the top right fuse number 10, the left full beam goes out. From cross checking, so far, they seem to match colour wise. Any updated ones of course would be appreciated.
-
I've got this one, which I am looking at using. Lights full and dip are working, which is why I am confused. Didn't check the horn while the fuse was working. I don't have front fog lights it seems, only the back read one which is working. http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/Images/Wiring Diagram New.jpg
-
Hi, Yes it is plain purple. Two wires. These seem to go up in to the dashboard. I guess I will be pulling it to bits!
-
I've disconnected everything I can find a connector for in the dash and most in the engine bay. A few more leads to go. I am guessing the wire is fused hence the bulb staying lit.
-
Hi Cackshifter, Tried as you said. The new LEP brake lights work a treat with the pins on them! Now I am guessing it's a case of what item has melted and caused this issue! Internal lights, horn, or fog lights?
-
Hi Cackshifter, Do you mean, one end to the 20amp fuse that's blowing, then the other end to each of the fuse place holder - both the top and then bottom end of the blade holder? Sean
-
Yes it is ! I've not removed them yet, that's something to try out. Easier than the wing I guess.
-
With everything off, if I put the new fuse in. With the battery connected, and all the other fuses removed. Even before I put the key in.
-
Hello Ian / Mo, Tried unplugging all the fuses and seeing if there was one that did it. Sorry I didn't say, the engine is off, and this happens instantly I guess I’m going to have some fun stripping the wing down to get to the wiring loom
-
Hi Ian, I've not checked it, as I don't have a spare. I disconnected all three of those; the hazard, interior lights, and windscreen heater. Still has not isolated the issue. I'm guessing a damaged wiring that needs to be found and replaced. Sean
-
Hi, This is my fuse cover. The interior light only has one wire connected at the top, I will rip down the covering to see if the other is hidden. The rear fog light works ok, the horn was disconnected as it seemed to be linked to the fuse issue. Made no difference connecting it back up.
-
Hello all, My 1990 110 2.5TD has developed a fault with the aux fuse keeps popping. It's the top left one, and should be powering the horn, back fog light (?), this also affects the light stick when pulled back to put full beam on for a few seconds. The voltage is 12.8 when the engine is off. Any ideas on what to check or try? I'm guessing an earth wire somewhere or a short of some sort. Checked and it's marked as 20amp and have been putting in a 20amp fuse. I've checked with new light Indicator-horn-headlamp dip switch Disconnected all the connectors in the engine bay for the water pump Swapped the hazard switch for another one Removed the other switches such as lights and heated window (which was not connected to anything :D) No cigaret lighter or USB connectors on either All and any helpful suggestions welcomed.
-
I will be looking at the timing on my 19J (2.5TD) this weekend, after doing the compression test! Finally getting that done, and then I'll know more and what next to slow the oil leaking down. Cleaning the injectors and banjo bolts made a big difference, I can now tell the 19J apart from the 12J (2.5 N/A).
-
Just wondering if this was ever found, and what the fix was? Sorry it's an old post!
-
Hello Scotts90, I can't see any oil in the exhaust pipe. It's not very clean and may be due to it previously burning oil. When I changed the air filter it was soaked. I do get a lot of oil residue on the back windscreen. I assume this is from the engine Hey, and moving along and out and up.
-
Hi Scotts90, Yes, it does leave a mess, lots of mess at that! The engine bay on the right hand side looks a mess. It's all under and out including on the inside of the farside rear tyre! It's seeping as opposed to gushing out. I know it's from the engine not sure exactly where, I am guessing now the breather pipe, and out into the air filter hole at the bottom. It smokes a bit when it's started, but that calms down after a few mins. So I am not sure how much may be going into the engine. I am wondering about a runaway diesel situation, and want to avoid that at all costs. I will check the back breather pip once it's been washed out again, and have ordered a breather box and looking to close off the pipe going to the air filter. As the breather from the engine seems to have a lot of oil in it. I'll check for other places, once I can get it cleaned out. As I could not see at the moment, sadly.
-
Hello Monkie, Thank you for the quick reply. They are not loved much, I am thinking of trying to save it and get it right. I managed to leave the breather of for 30 mins 😂. So it's a bit of an oil bath. I will wash it out again at a car wash place as I am away with work. I did check the air filter canister, that had oil under it. The filter was not clogged but had a liberal dose. It was not bad enough to change. After driving 200 miles literally, the dip stick had moved out about 2mm. It may have been bumps and road movement. The engine has lost about 1 litter of oil after driving 200 miles. I will check for leaka once it's been washed out (again). Some of that will have been caused by leaving the breather off!
-
Hello, I've got a Defender 1990, 110. It's a 2.5TD engine and is leaking oil, lots or oil! If I do a long drive for 190 miles, it will have bled out past the low marker on the dip stick. I'm doing 60 to 65 mph, not all the time. I've read the following article and others where I could find them. Things I am looking at are as follows, happy to check or try things. All suggestions and help is appreciated and welcomed 0. Rocker cover gasket replaced and that seems to be fine 1. The dip stick O ring seal looks ok, but, I will get that replaced - just in case 2. The rocker cover was one place where it’s been leaking oil, on the middle nut. I've put an O ring, washer, radiator pipe holder connection, and then a normal nut on the middle. The other two screws are domed. I can’t find the right information on what order this is put together. 3. Could be crank case pressure, was suggested to get a test kit of flea bay to check, hence pushing up and out of the engine 4. Cleaned the breather on top of the engine, to ensure it's not causing excessive pressure 5. Anything else anyone would suggest?
