roamingyak
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Posts posted by roamingyak
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Me too, some good stuff...
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Thanks, ordered!
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1
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On my 110 Hardtop I have a lot of old expedition equipment, old military equipment and so forth that I want to remove - but am not sure how to fill in the remaining holes. Most are on vertical side and rear panels. They range from 5mm to 55mm give or take, most circular.
What would be the
A. best way to patch them
B. a way to patch them up if your a bloke in a field with limited knowledge
I appreciate I'll need to get them painted after patching them up...
Thanks in advance! -
Hi, do Land Rover military sunroofs have part numbers please?
If not, do any companies hold these types of items?
I'm after some of the plastic holders that push down from the exterior and have a bolt screw into them from the interior, holds the lining in place etc
(Mine is from a 1991 Defender Winterised deep wader). -
Hi,
I'd like to replace the hose that goes from my snorkel (pops up through the body on top of the wing through the plastic air vent) to the air housing on my 200TDI Defender as the hose is looking fairly chaffed.
Is it a LR item though, I can't see it in any of the diagrams on landroverworkshop etc?
Any help appreciated
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I have a 1991 100 that is a ex MOD winterised deep wader - pretty much all of that has been stripped out, however the hardtop and alpine windows remain original.
The alpine window seals need replacing - understand there is either 4mm or 5mm glass in there.
If I pull it out can I accurately measure the glass thickness from anybody's past experience?
(I need to wait 10 days for the new seals to arrive so keen get it right first time)
Whilst the glass is out I'm thinking of painting it white on the external side like my roof as I have La Salle headlining in there that blocks the Alpine windows off anyway.
Can anybody suggest the best paint to use for longevity - explicit brands and links appreciated as always, else just characteristics is fine 😉 -
On 8/13/2018 at 3:59 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
The really good stuff is marine closed-cell hatch seal tape, available in reels from chandlers and I'm sure eBay etc.
Awesome, thanks everybody!!
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Thanks all,
Went for this as it seemed to remove the GL-5 debate and keen to try synthetic (not sure what has been put in recently - assume its cheapo mechanics oil etc)Syntrans Multivehicle 75W-90Fully synthetic GL-4 manual gearbox oil
(Dave is away on holiday for two week at Ashcroft btw) -
Thanks, I know, and they list both types under 'Diff front', nothing under transmission - and I doubt they are taking into account the GL5 issue in their 1990-2016 age range 😉
So keen to tap into the wisdom here -
Could somebody kindly sense check this please - doing a large bulk order so appreciate getting it right 😉
1991 200 TDI 110 - Ashcroft rebuilt transfer box installed in 2008, ratio changed same as a Disco, Stumpy R380, unsure if it has the yellow metals/brass/copper inside, assume it does.
Like to bulk order the transfer box oil, Castrol is easy to get delivered, like to put in the best stuff I can.
Conscious of the GL5 issue, needs to be GL 4, but does this apply when its fully synthetic also ?
So I can't use this Castrol Syntrax Uni Plus 75W-90 as its GL5?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Castrol-Syntrax-Uni-Plus-75W-90/dp/B0082LTKUA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1534249455&sr=8-2&keywords=castrol+75-90
In which case is Syntrans the way to go for example as its only GL 4?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Castrol-Syntrans-Multi-Vehicle-75W90/dp/B0068O6I4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1534249455&sr=8-1&keywords=castrol+75-90 -
Good to see another Kiwi on here!
Though I managed to grow wings and find myself in Portugal 🙂 -
So just weld the existing sized nuts to a plate. Attach the plate to the inside panel.
Nut shouldn't be a locknut, and then shouldn't need to access the inside ever again.
Thanks all, nice and simple 😉 -
1 hour ago, miketomcat said:
Rivet a flat plate on the inside with blind tapped holes in it don't forget some sealer. Then all you would have on the outside is some holes which you could leave open or put some short mushroom heads in. This would allow you the bolt your brackets back on whenever you want.
Mike
Thanks Mike - can you link to any blind tapped holes holders?
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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Could you not just put the bolts right through the soundproofing and put and use a spreader plate on the ply?
Lockable stuff can be worked out then....
Thanks.... but things will be mounted on the ply inside.
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Thanks all, much appreciated...
I'll try and source some large bolts - should they be steel rather than stainless?Is the plastic from a 5l Castrol engine oil container likely to be good enough?
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Hi all,
Perhaps you can solve something thats holding my internal rebuild up a little...
I have for years had these metal holders for my waffle boards on the side of my Defender, but now living in Europe I think they might cause me problems. I don't need them in Europe, but really do in Africa.
Problem - how can I change them to be easily take on/take off without having access to the inside (as this will be under two layers of sound proofing and a huge sheet of plywood)?
Or can you think of a better solution that is also lockable?
At the moment:
A. whack on the waffle (50mm) to the side holders, B. bolt with a welded on loop twist handle goes into the nut welded in place C. 90 degree metal bracket slotted over the loop twist handle D. padlock through the loop twist handle (so you can't twist the bolt undone with the padlock in place)
Help appreciated - links to items mentioned or images even more so 😉
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Can you order this thin spongy type foam that LR use on many body panels?
I'd like quite a few metres of it for repairing old bits and filling in holes etc
It seems very durable, stripping down my seat box today it was all in good nick whilst the panels were rusting away...
If not, any other brands supply this - any help appreciated thanks!
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Thanks, had a skim read of all of the links. The solution in the video looks more elegant - not keen to drill a hole in the expansion tank (where coolant could leak out!
) and prefer a tried and tested solution from many installs etc
What age/model of Range Rover are we talking about for the header tank you used please? -
Wondering if anybody has something like this installed? Or knows of some different options around this?
Roaming the Outback Engine Saver Coolant Alarm review
(Link is a short youtube review and installation guide) -
My Safari Equip (I think?) spare wheel carrier has served me well - but now all of the joints are loose - the (plastic?) spacers all squashed very flat and there is a fair amount of rattle even when packed with grease. I had thought of making some rubber replacements out of tyre tubes, but thought somebody here might have a better idea?
I need to stop play on the joints as this creates exaggerated pull on the rear door.
Safari Equip haven't answered my repeated emails so over to the collective wisdom on here -
4 hours ago, roamingyak said:
Adding my own experiences in for good measure
200TDi Defender with a stumpy R380. Always used ATF over 18 years of ownership, and changed it frequently.
I drove down the west coast of Africa, did a major service in Cape Town with a independent Landy workshop. They insisted MTF was the way to go.
Gearbox was really noisy, harder to use, changed it back to ATF within 500 km's and all was fine again.
I'm carrying a fair load and driving in hot climates.I should have added I have a gearbox oil cooler fitted next to the radiator.
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Adding my own experiences in for good measure
200TDi Defender with a stumpy R380. Always used ATF over 18 years of ownership, and changed it frequently.
I drove down the west coast of Africa, did a major service in Cape Town with a independent Landy workshop. They insisted MTF was the way to go.
Gearbox was really noisy, harder to use, changed it back to ATF within 500 km's and all was fine again.
I'm carrying a fair load and driving in hot climates. -
Thanks - I guess I was actually asking what is the best strategy and what parts should I order (all day in the sun has left be befuddled) as I was hoping people were used to ordering these as a set etc and had all the info to hand....
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I have a 1991 200TDI Hardtop 110.
I've taken all 3 of the (normal LR) front seats out, but it was a huge pain as most of the bolts just screwed around and around - the retaining nuts underneath were all loose/missing and the threads bolts have seen better days. So I plan on installing all new bolts, washers and 'retainer nuts' underneath so that getting the seats out is easy from now on.....(!)
But a bit confused as to what part numbers I need from all of the options and super seeded part numbers...
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/seats/seatingCan anyone help please?
Solder kit?
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Time to get into my Defender electrics a little more and fix up some of the past disasters installed...
I'd like to order a solder kit, aiming for what is detailed below, but happy to add to it if people suggest anyting useful...
So any suggestions for a good quality kit?