roamingyak
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Posts posted by roamingyak
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8 hours ago, Snagger said:
Yes; they stop a lot of drafts.
OK, which ones should I get - old style or new shredders (assuming they fit?)
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19 hours ago, Jocklandjohn said:
Rust stabiliser, then overpaint, then get a piece of aluminium of reasonable thickness 6mm or so and bend it round the bottom fastening it at either end as a strengthener, maybe the floor panel and some other place that basically 'cradles' the box and takes some of the weight. Should be doable without major tools - a drill and spanners, and you can bend it round two pieces of wood. I did this on my underseat box drivers side which was failing and years later its still there quite secure.
Turns out my neighbour is a panel beater, he whacked it in all directions tonight and said its just surface rust, the metal is good, so it should be good for a few years yet...
Is this a great plan?
1. Red oxide paint all over the inside?
2. Then a coat of Eastwood Flexible Sealer & Sound Deadener?
https://www.eastwood.com/flexible-sealer-sound-deadener-16-oz-aero.html -
My 1991 front doors cards are all dynamatted and foam covered and ready to go back on the doors.
Is it worth ordering some of the original plastic waterproof sheets to fit?
(Or will the newer shredders fit also?)
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Great, thanks all, I shall go forth and save the British economy with new found confidence.
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13 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
The gear positions are different between R380 and LT77, a picture of the top of the gear stick would help, assuming it matches the box
It's a R380 gearbox, stump/short bellhousing option for the 200TDI. It has reverse under 5th etc. This I know 😉
My question was did the tunneling/body work change when it or the bulkhead was changed.
Neil110's answer suggested I should continue to order LT77 pieces for my internal refresh (such as the Wright Off Road sound proofing) as in the cab it's still effectively a LT77. -
18 minutes ago, mmgemini said:
Make your own like I did
No way! 😉 My limit is bolting and screwing, no facilities or abilities to make much... and looking for a stress free refresh.
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Appreciate some clarification on the following please, as looking to order some products and would like to be 100% certain
My Defender was an exMOD with a 2.5na and LT77.
It's been changed over to a 200TDI and at the same time a short bell housing R380.
Later the bulkhead was changed and I wasn't present.
I'm unsure if the gearbox tunnel or anything else was ever changed.So when going to order products such as sound proofing I'm not sure if I should order the LT77 or R380 option.
I'm assuming many of you can tell this just by looking at a few pictures which I'd be grateful for!
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Hallelujah - It's been an almost spiritual day - after 18 years of ownership I've finally seen my battery box in the starkers! 😉
My 1991 hardtop used to be a winterised deep wader, all of the other MOD stuff long gone, except in the bottom of the battery box which I've always had my suspicions about.
So today it all came out, the two batteries, the plywood under them, the foam insulation, the battery tray - and it wasn't great....
All four battery tray bolts disintegrated rather than unbolt, the battery tray is a complete rust bucket (replacing with a Flatdog one) and so forth.
However the actual battery box itself doesn't seem +too+ bad...
Whats the expert opinion on here:
1. Slap some hammerite on it and worry about it in 3 years when it falls apart
2. Replace it asap etc as it won't last a year
(I travel in Africa a lot on very bad corrugated tracks and it holds a yellow and red top Optima in there)
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Thanks everybody, some good replies and food for thought, much appreciated and really enjoying this positive and welcoming forum!
I have to admit to having tried most of the suggestions and was hoping I'd missed a miracle cure for the fact that I'm not good at putting tools away after I've bashed/fixed something.... 😉Ballcock: Clear plastic kitchen boxes inside Rako boxes (which I base my storage around: Example Rako boxes ) are quite good, but each box becomes quite heavy, and 3 stacked on each other means getting to the bottom is hard work and often involves a squashed finger as you drop one if the fit is tight. And then as you don't access these every day, the Rako box is stacked a few boxes in the stacking system I employ, so its a big box, small box shuffle to find a tool (sounds silly to complain, but taking the fatigue factor out of repetitive small tasks is worth its weight in many things when its 44 degrees or your surrounded by hostiles etc
miketomcat: Made me think that maybe I should buy some foam and a plastic tray and make a tool box out of one of the Rako boxes I already use - need some carry handles on it, and struts to support the lid when open so that this becomes a tiny workspace for a magnetic tray for bolts etc. Thanks, that might be practical.
Bowie69: I have them, but only used them for spanners that I never used - those that I do use (10, 13, 17) I always left out of them!
Ideally looking for an overall solution that encompasses storage of most tools together.
mmgemini: All you need is a large shady tree and your a premium mechanic by African standards 😉
Fridge and Ed: How do you stop the tools smashing around inside? I've used a rigid Stanley canvas tool box/bag but everything is just jumbled in, hard to find anything inside of it.
Ian: Well done mate, good solution I'd prefer something removable though...
Thanks again! -
Hi all,
I do long term trips in Africa and so carry a far selection of tools with me - the usual suspects of drill bits, screwdrivers, hammer, rubber mallet, files, clamps, socket set and ratchet etc etc etc
However these have all been purchased over the years and never as a cohesive selection in a nifty plastic carry case for example. So my tool organisation has been chaotic at times which makes repairs more stressful, so time to get better organisedDoes anybody sell a range of good quality empty tool set cases?
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5 hours ago, western said:
you have to screw the new knob on, it will cut its own thread into the insert inside the knob,
Really! OK, I will give it a go, they seemed very different sizes, but I'm always cautious when in doubt....
Thanks in advance! -
Thanks Ian, that would be great - and nice to have a recommendation from a user of the product 😉
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Thats what I've been doing - but I go through a lot more air filters as the oil mixes with the incredible amounts of dust that gets in there in Africa and makes cleaning them impossible (even with a snorkel).
So interested to know if this would stop the oil?
FYI, have a look at the dust behind this guy then imagine driving past him and into it 😉
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Thanks....
But I bought a R380 knob (looks the same as your link) and it doesn't fit onto the gearstick (originally a 1991 LT77 2.5 n/a ex MOD). The stick thread is too big.... -
Can somebody kindly sense check this please? 😉
I have a R380 short bellhousing gearbox, a replacement for a LT77 (ex MOD) on my 200TDI.
Originally I just swapped the gearstick lever and knob over (reverse now showing incorrectly) and everything has been fine.
However the gearstick thread has now gone, hard to get the knob to stick on it even with tooth floss as I call it etc.
So looking to replace the gearstick and knob, is it part number UKE000080 that I should order?
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/gearbox/r380/gearchange-lever_53550This has a smaller thread on the top than my original LT77 ex MOD stick?
Double checking as its quite expensive! -
Hi all,
I've always had oil in my air filter, from the original 2.5 n/a, the first 200TDi swap out and then the new Turner Engineering 200TDI.
Looking to fix what seems a weakness with the original parts, I see there are solutions such as this one from Allisport:
http://www.paddockspares.com/uprated-engine-breather-oil-catch-tank-200tdi-and-300tdi.htmlWondering if anybody has this fitted and if it has stopped the oil from collecting in the air filter?
And are the mounting/fittings extremely robust? I do thousands of miles on corrugations in Africa etc
Any thoughts welcome! -
Absolutely fantastic thanks - exactly that, and I have a trim removal kit with a hooky thing so it only took 2 seconds to pop them off.
Thanks again!! 😉😉
Hopefully I can figure out how to pop them on again 😉-
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I'm taking off the front door trim on my much changed 1991 110 hardtop - the doors were 'refurbished' in 2013.
All fine, except there appears no easy way to remove the window winder - Haynes and searches on here show a central cap that should be popped out and then the screw inside removed.
However both of my winders have no central cap - they are solid - so assume they are from a later/earlier model or something...
Any suggestions on how to get these off please - I'm scared to use brute force least I break something!
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"''it ain't no prom queen, but it sure does scream ''adventure''"
I take that as a compliment ;-)
And it raises another good point, you don't want a shiny bling bling metallic paint job vehicle for overlanding in Africa imho. Keep it perfect underneath mechanically and a bit rough and faded up above is my approach, and it will noticeably smooth your way at the huge number of police checkouts and borders you have to cross.
I generally wear older faded clothes and the Landy exterior looks the same, so by the time you have driven up and stopped at a checkpoint its easier to plead "I don't have any money on me sorry Sir" when you have a few holes in in t-shirt, your matt paint work is faded, one wing has tape over it and your mud flap is missing.
Will do some vehicle pic's in a few weeks, head down trying to import it into Portugal currently which is a freaking nightmare when you have as many modifications as I do ;-) -
15 hours ago, Yostumpy said:
whatever happened to the old lime green ex mil 110 , 2.5 n/a ?
Still going strong! Same landy...
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30 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
How did you manage with vehicle repair if not doing it yourself ? I kind of always thought that if I was in the wilds I’d need to be able to fix whatever went wrong .
I'm playing a little dumber than I am ;-) In short form:
A. I rebuilt everything a year before going, new engine, gearbox, transfer box, axles, the works burger. And made sure this was by really good LR mechanics. Then I gave everything a year to bed in, iron out any niggles. So I hit the ground running in pristine condition, and Africa spent the next 3 years pounding it to pieces ;-p
My last big trip was 3 years and 112,000km, during this time I only couldn't drive once (freshly fitted fanbelt was loose and snapped) but was in 'limp home' mode a few times, broken shock mounting etc.
B. Africa is changing quickly and some big cities or tourist areas will have good mechanics and facilities, so whenever I found this situation I gave them free license for a few hours to check everything, anything iffy was changed/dealt with as appropriate.
C. I carried a huge amount of spares and good tools, having these means your winning before you start, no need to rely on carp local parts (Britpart is most common in Africa) or perhaps wait a week for delivery and play games at customs to get it.
Preventative measures as in B. is much easier when its easy to whip out a seal and replace it on the spot..
When rebuilding everything was replaced with a new part and the old taken as a spare (Turbo for example).
D. You get good at sniffing out bad situations (ie: really need fuel but this station doesn't seem good - so find and ask truck drivers if the fuel is ok before driving in to fill up for example)
E. 50% (?) of a 200 TDI 110 isn't rocket science, most people can figure things out given enough time. So you just need to make sure your in a situation where you can relax and take your time over the repair. When in doubt, find shade, cool down, drink loads, assess the situation, if you have phone signal phone your mechanic in the UK, if really lucky and you have some kind of internet then get onto this forum and search ;-)
F. I drive carefully and slowly as anything that breaks would need to be fixed in probably difficult circumstances.-
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Yes, quite variable depending on if your a thrill seeking good time charlie with a eye for fine whisky or a tea sipping quiet explorer.
How fast you travel determines costs as well, slower you go, the more you understand, the more options discover to spend wisely.
Important note is you'll probably spend more before you go than actually on the road...
Vehicle prep, spares kit, documentation (carnet etc) all add up...
These sites will give you some detailed ideas... as I was solo I spent about 75% of what they did
http://langebaan-sunset.blogspot.cz/2011/07/our-budget-1-year-in-africa-2x-people.html
https://twitter.com/langebaansunset/status/263925907759194113/photo/1http://norbertsadventures.com/preparations/budget/
Hope that helps!
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Hi all,
Just a note to say that despite being the worlds worst mechanic I have managed about 4.5 years of living in my 1991 200TDI 110, mostly in Africa including a 3 year trip down the west coast and up the east coast including places like Somalia, Democratic Congo and so forth.
So whilst I can't help much with fault finding fuel injection pump problems I'd say I could offer some sound advice on overland Defender setup, spares and repairs for Africa, vehicle camping and general overland advice...So please feel free to ask anything around this area and maybe I can offer some guidance...
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I thought the rear wings were a bit rough, but having removed my fuel tank guard this morning I can see that the whole rear of the chassis is what you might term 'wobbly' and a little broken along the bottom.
I'm keen to replace it sometime soon, but interested to know of any recommendations for where to buy it from taking into account I'm after the best quality available.
Suggestions welcome, plus any buying advice welcomed.
I will get it shipped to Portugal and a local indie landy person fit it, but they are often self taught so any guidance welcomed as well.TIA
Bolt kits ?????????
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted · Edited by roamingyak
I'd appreciate anybody sharing a link to somewhere that can sell high quality none stainless steel bolts - I don't have the knowledge or luxury of being able to visit any places like this etc. I'm also after a good stock of the most common sizes for replacement of existing bolts and nuts and for adding modifications etc.
(eg: My Nato hitch will come off soon and would like to add new bolts etc)
Thanks in advance!