LiamC
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Posts posted by LiamC
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I have a galvanised rack on my 110 which I think is a brownchurch. It's was great for 8x4 sheets, rolls of carpet, kayaks, bicycles etc. I will be putting it on eBay when I get a chance as it just doesn't get used these days. Hoping to get £100 for it.
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Does the engine still have compression ? If yes, then look at what remains in the head - compared to a spare plug. If there is no danger of any part of it dropping in or blowing out, then I'd forget it unless you live in a very cold climate. A TD4 should start perfectly well without any plugs working in the UK, with the other 3 working you won't have any problem in starting it.Remember a TD5 only has 4 glow plugs to start with...
Agreed, I did exactly this with 2 plugs on my 200tdi a few years ago. One blew out a few months later, the other is still stuck in there. I keep a spare glow plug in the cubby box incase it does one day blow out.
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Well I'm only 5'9 but I rarely sit in the back. We travelled to the south of France with a three adults across the back, two of which are 6' + and I received no complaints. Even with the new seats there is still a bit more headroom in there than we have in our Peugeot 106.
The seats themselves needed a little cutting of the plastic bases and I had to cut off some of the now redundant bracketry from the LR frames but it wasn't very complicated.
Do you ever come past Oxford? You would be welcome to call in and take a look.
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I've put Renault Scenic seats in the back of mine. Here's my thread with some pictures: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82350&hl=%2Brenault+%2Bscenic
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First thing I would check for is fuel starvation or air in the fuel. Check joints in the pipework and check the lift pump.
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I have swapped my 1.4 box for a 1.2 in my 110. It is indeed a bit too high now but I think the 1.4 was far far too low for most situations. Its now great for motorway cruising, especially for long trips abroad so overall it was worth while in my case. Yes towing or fully laden can be an issue, I did have to change into low box when attempting a hill start in Malvern once and generally have slip the clutch a bit more when pulling away but I can live with that for better cruising. As said above I think a 1.4 box on 33" tyres would be a pretty good combination.
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The flywheel has more than one notch in it for some reason (well mine does). It might not be an issue if you have a proper timing pin but there is a smaller notch which looks like it could be a timing mark but it isn't, which caught me out once.
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Do you need all those seats? Removing the benches is a simple way to reduce the seating capacity which will probably help your quotes.
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What age/engine is your defender? That looks like a 70A relay, do you have a heated front screen?
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Sounds like a wheel isn't properly balanced to me? Try swapping one wheel at a time for the spare and see if that makes any difference?
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I purchased that exact crank pulley for my second alternator set up, I went for the BP one and I wished I hadn't. The OE twin groove pulley I removed was a heavy stong looking thing but the BP tripple groove pulley is a very lightweight pressed tin type of thing. Yes it does work but I don't think it was worth the £35 saving.
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I actually thought it would be ok to leave until after my trip but just wanted a second opinion really, its good to know that others think the same. Yes it's still pulling up nice and straight so I haven't got any concerns there. I will get on the job as soon as I'm back, that way I can take my time and do the job properly. Thanks for all the input.
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My front brake pads are getting a bit thin, I haven't touched the front brakes in the 5 years I have owned the landy (only do 4K miles a year) so I thought I would take the opportunity to give the them an overhaul. I've ordered a set of mintex discs, mintex pads, new OEM seals and bearmach stainless steel pistons. The thing is, I have an 800 mile round trip to Scotland next week with an RTV/Navigation style event when I'm there and I will be really pushed for time to do the work before then. The picture below shows the worst side and I'm after an opinion of how much pad material is an acceptable amount and whether it is appropriate to leave the work until I get back? The thinnest pad currently measures 3mm.
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Where abouts in Worcester are they going? I quite often go to Bromyard, probably going there on Tuesday or Wednesday so its probably not too far out of my way. I'm sure Neil Kinch would not mind getting them from your place and bringing them into work here in Faringdon if that helps.
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Yes but that only applies to cat B license holders. If you have B+E on you license it is fine to have a trailer with MAM exceeding the unladen weight of your 90. If you have B+E, your trailer can be up to 3500kg MAM as this is the maximum specified by Land Rover on the vin plate.
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With regards to snaking, I'm sure I read somewhere that the new discovery is clever enough to detect a snake and apply braking to one individual wheel at a time to counter the snake, pretty clever I thought.
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If your car is plated to tow 2,500 kg you CAN load a 3,500kg trailer up to but not exceeding 2,500kg as per the car, legaly. If the police wanted to prosecute they would HAVE to have a weighbridge certificate to support their evidence BTW.
Where it does get complicated is that if you don't have cat E you CAN'T use a larger trailer and part load it, for licence purposes you get prosecuted on the plated capacity of the trailer ie you can get done for towing an empty trailer.
This is also how I understand it. For license purposes it is the plated weight that is used but if you have Cat B+E on your license then you can indeed load a larger trailer up to the towing capacity of your towing vehicle.
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Almost certainly an injector or two. A simple leak back test will confirm this.
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Well I had two break off in my 200tdi. They didn't come out with the engine running so I just left them in there. One came flying out about a month later whilst on the M25, so I just pulled over and fitted a spare. The other is still well and truly stuck in there some 25,000 miles later! Given that they are very stuck and have a taper on them I think it would be very unlikely/unlucky for it to fall into the engine.
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I'm not keen on fitting really tough drive flanges. Given how cheap and easy to replace they are I'd rather that be the weak link in the drive train as it kind of acts like a fuse protecting the diff etc.
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That does sound like a lot, but some of that play could be in the drive flanges.
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I wonder if the 6" thing means out to the side? Otherwise bike racks would also be illegal, so would a winch bumper, never mind a plank of wood on the roof rack sticking out a couple of fee or so.
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So what's wrong with it exactly? Why is it illegal? How did land rover get type approval?
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The spare on the back door of a Defender doesn't comply with construction and use. Not sure about a Series as I've never measured one.
So are you saying that the spare wheel on the back door of my defender is illegal even though it was manufactured like that?
New Clutch Won't Disengage
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I've just had my gearbox (LT77) out of my 200tdi 110 to fix a leak. Thought I might as well replace the clutch, fork, pivot and release bearing while I'm in there. Just got the box back in, went to fit the clutch slave and noticed that the push rod is slightly recessed in the bell housing.....shouldn't it be proud at its rest point? Fitted the slave anyway to try it, pedal pumped a couple of times and then went solid, I'm assuming the slave has run out of travel? I fear I will have to split the engine and box again but what have I done wrong? Its the same push rod and its still attached to the fork just fine. The new fork and release bearing looked identical to the ones they have replaced. The pivot is mounted on a triangular base, is it possible I could have fitted this the wrong way around, seems unlikely but I'm at a loss as to what is going on here.