RMEHUNTER

Can anybody tell me how about how many hours it takes to remove a TD5 head and also re-install one? It looks like I need to do mine and my mechanic is very fair in his prices and he will charge me actual hours but I need a ball park. Thank you.

I will order a new pipe. While waiting on the new one I backed the nut out and put a little sealant on it. I had to make a "custom" wrench as my hands are a little big for that spot.

There is a pipe coming off the bottom of my TD5 turbo that came loose a couple weeks ago and sprayed oil on the exhaust (the connection to the block). I was able to clean it up and tighten it. 2 weeks later it came loose again. Should I try some sort of thread sealant or is this a sign of another larger issue? Thank you in advance for the help.

The truck is already LHD. We are just updating the dash. I am trying to figure out the dash parts only..

How difficult is it to "convert" a RHD TD5 110 Dash to a LHD? Does anybody know what additional parts are needed if it is possible?

I have an earlier TD5 and a friend with the LR software mentioned that updating the ECU would make a difference in the way the truck runs. Is this true?

Does anybody know what size the fuel tank skid plate nuts are? These are the two that link the rear crossmember to the plate. Thank you in advance for you help.

I figured it out. It sits in the door and catches the water from where the lower glass trim (exterior) leaks into the door. I guess it prevents water from dripping on the door locks actuator....

Western: Thanks for looking it up, I am going to go to my local dealer and see if they have something. I can't imagine that there would be a random part just thrown into the door....

its plastic, it has some adhesive on the back, looks like some sort of drain to catch the water and have it go through a hose.

Roll up left hand front door.

While replacing my door latch I took off my door card and this fell out. Does anybody have a picture of how this mounts in the door? Thank you and have a great weekend!

Does anybody have drawings for Chassis protection parts such as the various skid plates that mount to a TD5 110 Chassis? Please PM me or email me.

What is the part number for the Low Side A/C pipe for a LHD Td5 110. It seems that a lower radiator hose clamp punched a hole in it...

Has anybody posted a step by step process for un-installing the TD5 turbo and re-installing. My Oil Filter Housing got damaged, so it looks like to replace the housing I have to remove the turbo. Thanks for any help.

I meant to say D-2 axle instead of P-38

I am looking for a set of Difff Guards for a TD5 110 (2003). I do not have the salsbury, and have Disc all the way around with ABS. I am being told the rear axle is a P38 axle. Is this true? I have tried to fit a D-1 diff guard on the truck and it wont fit in the rear or front (equippe brand).

I had a webasto fuel pick up. It was a generic line. Just cut it a little short so you dont pick up fuel from the bottom of the tank. Some people put an inline fuel filter also... Just cut the nipple, shove the pipe down. You should be able to do all of this without disconnecting the other fuel lines.

I dont have a any line hooked into the expansion tank. On an other note. Get some muffler wrap (thats what they call it in the US) to insulate the exhaust pipe. That ****er gets hot....

Attached are three images. One shows the Webasto mounted (on a left hand drive) Onother shows the relays mounted. Another shows how the pipes are spliced. I know the pics are not the best. I would recommend that you have somebody familiar with Relays and a test light before you start cutting wires to your blower on your heat. Regarding the fuel: The fuel line is idiot proof (just make sure when you hook up the hose you prime the line. It is easier to take a jar of fuel and set it near the webasto and suck it back down to the pump. After you siphon the line and wash your mouth out quickly hook it into the pump. You dont want air in the line as it can screw with the pump. The pump should have come pre-primed (dont take the plastic parts off of it until your are ready for the final fitment. Before testing the webasto run your heater and make sure you dont have any leaks in the water line. You can email this guy with your color questions (he is in the US but speaks German) Call Hans Peter Mueler at 810-593-6000. Remember he is in the US

On the top of the tank there is a plastic extruded nipple. You can drop the tank on a floor jack without disconnecting the tank. You just take a pair of scissors and cut the nipple off, then slide the pipe down. I have had my webasto in for 2 years now. When dropping the tank the longest part is taking the tow bracket out of the way. I dont speak any German but I had a tech from Webasto walk me through the color chart on the installation. I did it by myself and had no issues. I can upload pics if needed.

It looks like you had the same problem as me. There is some point of air build up. Please look at my thread (also started today 16-Sep) I got mine fixed in about 20 min.

OK, performed the above method in addition to my wife pressing on the brake as I was tightening each bleed valve. Work perfectly.

Funny you mention that. I just talked to a Rover guy in the area and he said: 1. Start the engine. 2. Jam a 2x4 on the brake pedal 3. Top off the fluid 4. Crack all the valves 5. Keep filling the fluid (need about 2 bottles)... Make sure fluid level does not drop... 6. Let engine run for about 15m minutes like this 7. Tighten all valves in order (RR,LR,RF,Lf) 8. Top off fluid He called this a gravity bleed.

The brakes worked fine before I changed everything. I only had to push the pedal very little to see results. Now if I have to have a hard stop I need to pump once then they really engage. It seems like there is air somewhere... I will re-bleed with the wife tonight.