Hawklord

I changed the oil and filter a couple of weeks ago using a Mahle filter and the light issue was the same before and after the change.

I have an issue with my oil pressure on my 300TDI Defender where starting from cold the longer I leave the vehicle between being used the longer it takes for the light to go out. For example I started it yesterday after being on the drive for 5 days and it took around 40 seconds for the oil light to go out. The oil light goes out within a few seconds when used daily, goes out immediately when re-started and doesn't come on or flicker when driving. I have have changed the switch which hasn't made any difference. Any ideas on what is the likely cause or what needs replacing. I have owned the vehicle for 19 years and it may have always done this as up until the Covid lockdowns it was used on a daily basis and I have only been aware of the issue when I drove it infrequently.

Clutch now working perfectly and I would like to say thanks for the help and advice given.

Thanks for your help and now all adjusted and back in the vehicle. Any tips on the correct way to bleed the new master cylinder. I didn't drain the pipe from MC to SC but will need to flush this through. After topping up the MC do I need to also pour some fluid into the pipe connector on the MC to prime ? I have a Eezibleed kit that you use with a spare tyre, is this a good way to bleed the clutch and if so does the clutch pedal have to be pressed down to allow the fluid to flow to the slave cylinder.

I still cant work out how to adjust the rod to ensure that there is free play as when I turn the nuts all it does is pull the pedal away from the stop, There is a big spring on the pedal, does this have to be removed to make the adjustment. I have the pedal box out of the vehicle and on the bench.

Thanks Steve but where do you take the 1.5mm measurement.

I am obviously being thick but I cannot see how to set the pedal height and the 1.5mm gap between the push rod and master cylinder piston as it is inside the housing casting. On the outside of the pedal box there is a captive nut with a bolt threaded into it, is this how to adjust the pedal height ? On the shaft there is single nut and a pair of locknuts but I cannot see how this can "adjust" the 1.5mm gap.

The slave cylinder was changed with the new clutch.

Thanks Steve. Why does the bonnet have to be pulled back to the screen and out of interest how does a faulty master cylinder cause free play at the pedal.

Thanks for your reply and I have checked and the pedal is wet so it looks like the master cylinder is the problem. How difficult is it to change, I found a walkthrough which stated that you had to take the bonnet off but there is a YouTube video showing the removal of the clutch box with the bonnet still on.

I had a new clutch fitted about a year ago and the pedal had about an inch of free play before any resistance which I assumed was normal for a new clutch but now however the clutch pedal goes approximately half way to the floor before any resistance. Any idea of where to start looking or is there any adjustment that can be made. Over the last 3 or 4 years I have had to top up the clutch fluid every couple of months or so, could this be linked to the pedal issue.

I found the red/black wire taped up behind the dash, fitted it to the hazard switch and when switched on the triangle now flashes with the indicators 👍. Thanks for all your assistance.

Brilliant and many thanks Western for putting in so much effort for your reply. My hazard switch looks exactly like yours bur doesnt light up when switched on so will need to try and find out why not.

A new flasher unit came with the led lights and has been fitted. It has an adjuster on it but which I think is used to adjust the frequency of the flashes, could this affect the dash light. The hazard switch has a plug in connector in the middle and one wire attached to a side connector, the other side connector has nothing on it, are you saying that this should be connected to earth ? The dash indicator warning bulb is I think the original but I did change some to led's a long time ago so will check and change to led if necessary. When the hazards are switched on is it the same bulb as for the indicators on the dash that lights up or is it a different one ? Thanks for your replies so far.

All four indicators flash at the correct speed when switching on the hazards. What doesn't happen is that there is nothing flashing on the dash to show that the hazards are on and I don't know what should happen.

I had an advisory from the MOT saying that the hazard light warning indicator wasn't working (All four indicators come on when the hazard switch is turned on). What should light up to show that the hazards are turned on, I have replaced the switch and hasn't made any difference. I have recently replaced the indicators with LED's, will this have affected anything ? The vehicle is a 300TDI Defender.

Thanks for your reply and it has the original axle so 552818 it is.

Looking at things which might fail the MOT due in September I am going to replace the lower bushes in the rear shock absorbers but in typical Land Rover style the internet shows 2 different part numbers for these, RNF100090L and 552818 which look completely different in the pictures. Can anyone please confirm the correct part number or does it not matter.

Update - She has started every time since removing and cleaning the connections in the under bonnet fuse box

I have now taken off and cleaned all connections to starter motor and solenoid and removed, cleaned and refitted the big live wire to the under bonnet fuse box. I can't see how to remove the wiring harness wires from the fuse box though. Looking at the wiring diagram is seems that the 60amp fuse feeds both the ignition switch and starter relay but as the ignition circuits are working ok I can only assume that the fuse box is functioning correctly. Have used the vehicle a few times today after the cleaning and it has turned over and started each time but there is that doubt in my mind and time will tell. For the cost of it I may change the starter relay anyway but trying to avoid £100 for the fuse box if at all possible. Thanks for your offer Steve b.

If that was the case then how does it eventually start by wriggling the live feed wire from starter motor to the under bonnet fuse box which is the other side of the vehicle.

My 1994 300TDI defender has had a starting problem on and off for the past 6 years and has just occurred again after being no problem for over a year. When the key is turned all lights etc come on but at the last position there is absolutely nothing, no clicks can be heard from relays or solenoids and no turning of the starter motor. To fix the problem I have to wriggle the big cable that runs from the under bonnet fuse box to the starter motor and eventually it will start and may be fine for days, months or years. 3 years ago I removed the under bonnet fuse box and cleaned al the connectors and it was fine for about a year but didn't "fix" the problem. My thoughts are that the issue is in the fuse box but as these cost about £100 I would like to be certain that this is true. As there is no audible click could the starter relay possibly be faulty and by wriggling the positive starter cable I am somehow making the relay work again ? Can anyone suggest possible causes as it can become quite stressful every time I turn the key not knowing whether or not it is going to start.

Thanks all for your replies and I am getting the Jigsaw Mats.

Hi I am looking at buying either rubber or EVA foam stable matting to put under the rubber floor mats as additional sound insulation as they are quite cheap to buy. The EVA foam ones look to be a better insulator but will they absorb water being a foam ?. I have just fitted Dynamat to the floor panels and just looking for another cheap layer to put down over it. Has anyone fitted stable matting to the front floor of a Defender 90 who can offer some opinions.

How much pressure is required to push in the plunger against the spring on a brake vacuum pump for a 300TDI Defender. I have just bought a replacement and the plunger has about 2mm play but I cannot push it inward toward the pump flange, even with the plunger against the side of a work bench and pushing hard. Is this normal as I don't really want to take the old one off and find that I have a faulty unit.