Hawklord

Hi Steve Great help, thanks. Which version of STC611 did you use as there seems to be a squeezable bottle, an aerosol and a tube that you wind up from the bottom with a key. Did you fully tighten the bolts before letting the sealant set or did you pre-load them and fully tighten after setting.

Sorry its a 300TDI. I am not touching the pump just replacing the relief valve which shows as being accessible after removing the sump. Having never done this before my question is is it reasonably straight forward to take off and put back on the sump with the vehicle on the ground. I found a YouTube video showing the relief valve being taken out but he had to loosen the plug with a chisel to get at the spring and plunger and the engine was on the bench and not in the vehicle. Regarding the sump sealant the general opinion seems to be LR part number STC611 or Hylomar 2000, can anyone please recommend which is the best sealant to use. Thanks

I know that it is nearly a year ago that I started this post but I have finally ordered the new oil relief valve parts and strainer o ring but a bit apprehensive in doing the job. Can the sump and relief valve be removed and re-fitted easily from under the vehicle or is this a job that needs to be carried out on a lift. Thanks

My headlights are showing signs of rust on the reflectors and will need replacing before too long and I am considering replacing them with LED's to improve the brightness. Can anyone recommend a decent brand which would not break the bank as the price range for LED headlights is very wide. My current halogen bulbs aren't bad on high beam as I also have driving lamps come on at the same time but low beam on country lanes isn't very good compared to a modern car and I am finding that I need more light on the road as I get older. .

Thanks for your replies and I have bought the repair kit to try first and it if turns out to be worn hinges I have only lost £4.50.

The rear door on my 300TDI Defender creaks very badly when opening and closing and there is a lot of movement in the hinges. Two options are to replace the hinge pins and bearings or buy new hinge kit but the price difference between the two is around £50. Will just changing the pins etc cure the problem or do the hinges themselves wear, bearing in mind that they are probably the original hinges now being 28 years old.

Our new Land Rover dog.

For me the original Britcar website was by far the best of all LR parts suppliers because when searching a part number it gave multiple options from the cheapest S***part, OEM, genuine Land Rover etc so you could compare prices and make your choice. I have known Duncan for nearly 20 years and hope that he gets the company back up and running again as their prices were always competitive and the parts came in next day (and also because I only live 4 miles away 🙂).

The switch is not visible and you access it from inside the vehicle by removing the cover over the gearbox which is held in by many bolts. When replacing mine last year I struggled to remove the cover but managed to pull the left side up enough to get a spanner over the switch. Assuming that you have a 300TDI Defender there are 2 part numbers for the switch depending in the chassis number and the CDU51 is slightly longer. CDU51 - Up to MA949874AMR3918 - MA949875 onward The switch may also not be working due to wear inside the gearbox so that the plunger isn't fully pressed. I have to say that this was a job that I didn't enjoy doing.

I have owned my 300TDI for 19 years now and at the moment could probably sell it for about twice that I paid for it as prices continue to rise but with electric vehicles being forced upon us I wonder when the time will come that the prices start to drop and the Defender eventually gets "cancelled" and becomes worthless.

I removed the sill and the tank dropped out 😊 Thanks all for the advice given.

That is what I am now thinking as this is what the tank seems to be fouling on.

Yes all fuel has been drained 👍, just haven't yet found a way to get the tank out 😒

Has anyone got any tips on how to get the fuel tank out of a 300TDI Defender 90. I have removed all 6 bolts and the front mounting bracket and the tank is free to move but the gap between the chassis rail and outer sill rail doesn't seem to be wide enough to get it out. Is there a special way to angle the tank to allow it to be removed. There is an outer sill rail bolted to the floor, does that have to be removed ?. I don't want to hammer it out as I cant hammer in the new tank. Any advice would be much appreciated.

I am 2 miles south. Thanks landroversforever I wouldn't have worked that one out.

How do I reply to a post and include the original information ?

L19MUD, do you live in Ipswich ?

Thanks for your replies. I have been insured with Adrian Flux with an agreed valuation policy for many years and have never increased the value but asking prices seem to be going up so I thought that it should now be increased. I suppose at the end of the day the valuation needs to be what I would be happy with if the worst were to happen to it.

How on earth do I value my 1994 300TDI Defender for my insurance agreed valuation as looking around the internet they seem to go from £7K up to over £25K.

Brilliant, worked a treat, many thanks for your advice.

After a lot of swearing I have finally replaced the ball joint on the end of the steering arm but now cannot get the spring clip on the bottom of the rubber boot. The clip is two coils of wire and if I put it onto the boot first the boot will not go over the raised part of the arm and if I put the boot on first I cannot get the wire over the bottom of the boot. Is there a certain way to fit the clip that came with the kit or is there something better to use, would it be acceptable to use a small cable tie ?.

FRC7948 has the 90 deg bend and there is one on Ebay but at £38.

Could it be either FTC3698 or FRC7948 ?

Another vote for the hazard switch being the cause as I had a similar problem many years ago.

Thanks Litch.