Hawklord

Has anyone fitted the Britpart DA1129G fulcrum with ball joint or can confirm the manufacturer as all the suppliers just state as OEM.

The length of a wire thread insert is calculated as a multiple of the diameter:e.g. M8 x 2D the insert length = 16mm

Just received the Allmakes thermostat which fits into the adaptor hole perfectly (the first one was a Bearmach). Started the engine to check for leaks and it wouldn't turn off, the fuel solenoid has now failed. The joys of Land Rover ownership 😊

The pin is about 0.5mm larger in diameter and will not go the full depth in the adaptor hole which will mean that the spring will be compressed by about 5mm more than the old one when the thermostat is cold. I have ordered a different brand to see if it is any different.

I bought a 5mm spacer but fitted a new Delphi lift pump today without using it, but If this pump breaks prematurely then I will fit the spacer next time to see if it makes any difference.

I am now replacing the oil thermostat in my 300TDI and the pin that protrudes from it on the new one will not push into the locating hole in the adaptor very easily and becomes stuck whereas the old one is a loose fit. Does anyone know whether the pin should be a loose or tight fit and does it need to move in and out of the adaptor freely. The part numbers are ERC5923 for the stat and ERR2241 for the adaptor.

I understand that the spacer was not originally fitted but intrigued why they are being advertised as an improvement, there are even YouTube videos about them. Has anyone on this forum actually fitted one ?

I have also read about the engine block differences but other reports state that by adding the 5mm spacer it allows the lift pump to operate in the middle of its possible travel, thus causing less strain and the priming lever should the operate regardless of the camshaft position which all seems to make some sense to me. Fourby 4x4 are one company selling the spacer mod.

Investigating further it looks like there are 2 gaskets to go either side of a "spacer" which my existing pump doesn't have. Searching the web again there isn't a definitive answer to whether or not a spacer is required. It seems that earlier engines had a 10mm spacer but there are conversion kits available for the 300TDI with a 5mm spacer which are supposed to help with the fitting, help with priming and reduce the chance of the arm from breaking. Can anyone offer any advice on whether I should be fitting a 5mm spacer. Thanks

My new fuel lift pump came with 2 gaskets, is this a packing error or do I need to fit both and if so why. Is it advisable to also apply some gasket cement as I am replacing the pump to try and fix an oil leak.

Hi Ralph I ordered these parts only yesterday and found the part numbers somewhere on the internet but it wasn't easy and can't find where at the moment but will post if I can. Found it https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/300tdi/oil-filter_53190

Part numbers are: Thermostat: ERC5923 O Ring: ERC5913 Spring: ERC3727 Washer: ERC3725

I had the same problem with my handbrake binding and it is not pleasant to drive and due to the fact that the handbrake hardly ever worked because of oil leaking from the rear transfer box seal and contaminating the brake shoes I replaced the drum with a disc conversion and that is probably the best modification I have done to my Defender.

Many thanks for the offer but I already have a new switch. It was picked up at the last MOT (although it is not a failure item) so I will try and sort it out before the next one.

Can anyone confirm what I need to remove on my 300TDI to replace the reversing light switch as some sites say that it can be accessed by removing the panel under where the center seat would be (I have a cubby box) and others say that the gearbox tunnel has to be taken out.

I found this thread that may be worth reading as some of the posts seem to indicate that the 162SA switch may be for petrol engines and do not work for diesels with glow plugs. https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/series-iii-2-25-diesel-heater-plugs.36017/

No not yet as I haven't got the enthusiasm with this heatwave to crawl under the vehicle and get covered in oil, but I will give an update when I have replaced the relief valve and strainer O ring.

"The truck used to start on the button, with the glow plugs, pre strip down 5 years ago" Are you saying that the glow plugs have not worked since the strip down or have I misunderstood.

Thanks for your replies and advice and I will order a new relief valve to see if that fixes my problem.

Can the relief valve be changed by removing the sump or do you have to remove the timing cover etc.

Do I access the relief valve and strainer by removing the sump and if so is this a job that can be done on the drive or does it need to be on a vehicle lift.

I started her up today after sitting for 3 days and the oil light stayed on for about 15 seconds and the oil pressure gauge didn't move until the light went out so it seems then that oil is slowly draining away from the pump when the vehicle is not being used. What do you think is the likely cause of this to happen and seeing that my oil pressure figures seem to match to other forum members can I assume that the pump itself is ok ?

Seeing that my psi figures seem to be around normal it doesn't look like that there is anything major wrong with the engine or oil pump, which is good news. I have always changed the oil at 3000-4000 mile intervals. With the figures that I have could there still be a problem with the oil relief valve draining and causing the oil light to stay on a long while after not using the vehicle for a few days and if so how do you access the relief valve for replacement. I have never changed the oil cooler thermostat, if this is stuck open could that affect start up pressure after standing ?

Hi I have fitted the oil pressure gauge and get the following readings, do they seem ok. Cold start idle 58psi Cold engine at 60mph 48psi Hot engine idle 18-20psi Hot engine at 60mph 28-30 psi. I don't have the readings yet for when the oil warning light takes and age to go out as I have to not use the vehicle for 4 or 5 days for this to occur. The oil which I have used for the 19 years owned is 15w40 mineral, is this the best oil to use for a 27 year old 300TDI with 201k on the clock and not having any work done on the engine.

I have ordered a pressure gauge to get some actual values and will report back once fitted. What fails with pressure relief valve it it is that ? Thanks for all of your replies.