Jim Mason

Removed and left soaking in diesel to try and remove grease. Tried to move motor - used ground and tapped positive to top red or yellow - went to move but stopped Did i need connection to top black?

Ok todays update... Seals gone - grease emulsified - solid in places

Motor Connections - Red - Yellow - Black + Connection underneath

Nope

Thank you... Might try a gentle paint remover to see if the extra layer of paint can be renoved.

Looking for help Purchased a winch for my Landrover Discovery 1. But owner had no details on it, he brought it second hand etc So would like to know more about it. Can anyone help me out?

0this is going to be fun, as without the clutch i cannot select any gears and the landy is parked with rear fractionally higher due to slope of the drive. Can see me choking rear wheels and lifting the front end of the Landy. Not sure how high to lift the frontend. Do you then gravity bleed or use a couple of pumps of the pedal?

Thats what i have been thinking. Cannot get it out of my head.

I will try it again, there is only one hole out, so will try again tomorrow. I had already tried this... Just only getting a slight spittering of fluid, nothing like a jet. So when it sucks back should i keep finger on outlet?

So the saga continues... Replaced Master Cylinder & Slave Cylinder, still no clutch pressure. Reverse bled, no fluid flowing into master cylinder. Topped up master cylinder, pushed pedal no pressure, 4th pedal press pressure, 5th Pedal to floor. Removed pipe from master cylinder, reverse bled, got fluid to top of pipe, pushed pedal no fluid exiting master cylinder, can feel it sucking and applying pressure but no fluid movement. Any thoughts on this?

Still not got a clutch, replaced Master Cylinder, Slave Cylinder, reverse bled. Building pressure, fluid shooting out of bleed nipple but no pedal pressure.

20220205_101718.mp4 We got it working, fuel pump had failed...

Looking at posts from 13th April 2019, after changing timing belt had same issue, unable to start landy...

Turns out the pump has been messed with and someone has wound in the pins holding the fulcrum in place, fulcrum is badly bent and distorted. Unsure how, as i have never messed with it, just removed and placed into new engine... £200 to sort... Sent to R N Diesel - Wolverhampton

Yes, got plenty of fuel, even replaced with new... Didnt think you could mix up the banjo bolts... Fuel into pump is next to pressure relief valve. Rear next to injector valves is return to tank?

HELP...In the process of getting my 300tdi - manual - EGR Blanked Off up and running again after piston 4 came out for air. But i have hit a brick wall that i cannot get round or over, fuel pump was off my original engine and running well until it all went wrong in October. I have stripped donor engine, cleaned & replaced everything, re-fitted my fuel pump.I've bled the fuel system in the following way so far:-- Cracked off fuel filter bleed screw and got fuel coming through there. Filter is full.- Cracked off injection pump return line and got plenty of fuel coming through there.Now, there isn't any fuel coming through the injector lines at all when turning the engine over.Stop solenoid clicks when 12v is applied and turned off, got direct 12v to stop solenoidRemoved non-return output nozzles to ensure they are not stuck or jammed in any way, all clear. just not getting any pressure out, with all four removed fuel dribbles out, going to remove fuel solenoid and remove centre to ensure its not faulty. Any other suggestions? Quick update:- Removed fuel stop solenoid, removed plunger and refitted. Re-tried still no fuel being delivered out of the back of the pump. 20220122_102717.mp4

Thats what ive done, might re-build and keep as a spare...

Seem pretty hard to me, not seen new but as a hydraulic engineer i would not use them... Fresh fluid instantly turned dark with silver particles... Replacement is the way forward with this...

Removed master cylinder, drained fluid out. Took into kitchen filled reservoir with water and pushed piston in & out nothing was ejected out of master cylinder. Looks 100% like its passing past the seals, stripped & nothing obvious no bits missing etc.

Reverse bled clutch, got fluid all the way through but still no clutch pedal, its flat to the floor. Has master failed as well?

Was going to reverse bleed, get fluid into all of the pipework using a clean pump and fresh fluid. Then fill reservoir and gravity bleed. Hopefully this should resolve all issues

Not sure lot of discussion on this on line, what is the best option. Was fully working fine, till the engine was removed, so seems a shame not to get it working again.

Found this during an internet search, its got to be worth a try? https://mtaeta.info/thread/2494/reverse-bleeding-clutch-system Bleeding a clutch system in reverse if the conventional method is not working correctly. This method has been ok on several occasions to bleed a clutch system where its been difficult to bleed it in the normal way. Connect a pipe from brake caliper bleed nipple to bleed nipple for the clutch ,using the brake pedal pump the fluid so any trapped air will end up coming through to the master cylinder Unless you have a device to bleed it that way !!just a tip and something to try Done clutches and had a couple after a few days and the pedal has dropped,after bleeding them in reverse solved the problem.

Going to try & reverse bleed using brakes to provide the pressure.