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Peterla

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Everything posted by Peterla

  1. I have just changed my clutch rear crankshaft seal and gearbox seals. All looked great until I noticed the rear main seal was leaking. Have removed the gearbox and tranfer case again only to find the rear main seal had a floor running 90 degrees across it. Not sure if i did it or it was there from the supplier.Alot of time wasted!!!! I fitted it flat to the base as I did not have the 18G.134-11 tool. Is this ok to do? Should I be aware of anything when doing this seal? A bit frustrated as it took me quite a while to do this work then only to have to start it again. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Peter
  2. Thanks for the advice. We live half way between Gawler and Tununda. Kapunda is a bit more reginal and not in the heart of the valley. It would take about 1 hour 20 to get to Kapunda. Not sure what teaching reginal area spreads out to. Not involved in that industry. Peter
  3. It is the bolts that come through the Hand brake drum. It takes about 50 minutes to get to the Barrossa valley from Adelaide. Let me know if you want some names of good winery to visit. Peter
  4. I have a damaged bolt on my rear output tailshaft flange. I have the drum off bot the bolt does not come out easily. Can I get this out without removing the flange? Thanks Pete
  5. In Australia it is illegal for anyone to work on a AC without a licence. Big fines due to Ozone and greenhouse problems. R134a is a critical charge and if you still have a label it will be some where between 700 to 900 grams plus or minus 5-10 grams. If you are experianced you can top it up but you need to be carful not to overcharge it. Head pressure problems will be the result of an overcharged system. If you have lost too much gas then you suction pressure will be negative and a good possablilty you have sucked in moisture. New dryer and evacuation is then needed. This is all after you have found the leak. I would start with the compressor shaft seal that is a very common problem. Running though the colder weather keeps the oil up to the seal keeping it lubricated and less chance of leaking. Peter
  6. Has anyone seperated the centre from a steel rim so as to wided the track on a disco. I have ground off the welds as much as i dare and looking for some ideas how to get the centre out. I have tried a big hammer but it does not seems to be the best option. Thanks Peter
  7. Does anyone know if i can fit the factory roof rails to my 200 tdi. I am not sure if this is a factory process or I can refit them from a wrecked car. Thanks Peter
  8. Can anyone help me with the part number for door seals on a 2 door 200 TDi disco. I need both front doors and the rear door. Any help would be appreciated. Pete
  9. Thanks Mark I will have a look and see what I can do Pete
  10. Can anyone tell me if their is any adjustement that I can make to my 200TDi front door handles. I have some trouble opening the front drivers door. I have the handle pulled all they way out but it does not release the door every time. Probalably worn out. Thanks Peter
  11. Thanks Les The punch worked fine after I dropped the steering coloum so I could get to them. Pete
  12. Can anyone tell me how to replace my ignition key switch as mine is worn out. It looks like the switch is rivited and clamped to the steering shaft. Can a second hand switch be used to replace my old one as not sure how to replace the rivets. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Peter
  13. I have a Disco 200tdi. I have fitted a large heavy duty alternater to help with my chrging requirements. I now have an issue with the top intercooler hose rubbing on my alternater. If I turn it around it has a good clearance. As the intercooler has a larger diameter compared to the manifold the hose is a loose fit at the manifold. Can anyone tell me if a new top intercooler hose has the same diameter at each end as I am not sure if mine has just streached from time. I would be keen to know before I purchase one. Thanks Peter
  14. Thanks, It was looking me straight in the eyes. The spline was slightly stripped but as it is tappered a tighten on the nut seemed to do the job. Pete
  15. I connot see a nut on the front. Is it possibly behind the arm. Not that easy too see. I gather this is undone do romeve the arm from the tappered spline. Thanks Pete
  16. Had my bonet up and knocked my wiper switch on. I think this has stripped by spline on the drivers side wiper as it hit the bonet while the motor was tring to turn it. Can any tell me how to get the drivers side windscreen wiper blade off. Thanks Pete
  17. I have changed several bearing on 200tdi compressors. Some have a circlip that holds them in , others have a press on the edge of the pully about every 20 mm or so. They are all in stock in Australia from my local bearing supplier and a lot cheaper than a new compressor. Keep tring and good luck. If you used a bearing puller to get the pully off check that you have not damaged the V section. The ideal way id to used three bolts that screw into the pully with a plate drilled to the same dimensions. The weld a fine nut in the middle and turn a bolt down to a point and use that as a pully. Much more reliable and does not damage the pully. Hope that helps Peter
  18. Thanks for the ideas on how to mount them. I will attempt to make one and mount it to my gutter. Can anyone give me some dimensions on the materail they are made out of. ie was it tube or box section and rough size. Also are there any issues with reflection from the bonnet when thay are on. Thanks
  19. I have a 200 tdi and had great spot lights on my bull bar. Works fine in cool weather but when under load at around 36 degrees celcius I start to over heat. I have seen some pictures of a bar that is just above the front windscreen with spot lights mounted on these. Can anyone help me with how these are mounted and weather these brakets are made or purchased. Thanks Pete
  20. The reason thay have probably asked you to flush it then is the original oil will mix with the new oil in the compressor. It is reccomended that this is not done as the original oil is usually mineral not synthetic like the new oil in the compressor. To flush the system in place can be difficult if it is like mine. For some reason i have what i first thought were check valves in the liquid line and suction line. I suspect they are more like pressure control valves that keep the head pressure and suction pressure up when used in extemly cold weather. This would be for defrost puposes. You would therefore need to overcome this pressure setting with your flushing agent to get it to flow through the system. If you do replace the TX valve you have the system nearly all apart and you could flush it then. Hope that helps and good luck. Pete
  21. I had my system apart and it was easy to flush each part with Shellite. I made new hoses so these did not get flushed out. This is a petrol based cleaner that evaporates quite quickly. You then blow it out with nitogen. I use this when i am rebuilding compressors to clean all old oil from them. It works quite well. Are you looking to flush your system while it is in tact? Pete
  22. Thanks everyone, I have finally got my dash out to remove my AC. Your instruction and pictures helped alot. If anyone is interested in knowing why their AC will not work as the suction pressure is to low even though there is plenty of refigerant in the unit this is what i discovered. I have a 93 200tdi that has a factory ac in it. I could not get over 5 psi running on R12 with plenty of refigerant in the unit. Upon further investigation i found my TX valve was icing up. First thought was that the tx valve had lost its charge on the bellow and was not opening. Whan i did get the unit out i found the fine mesh filter on the inlet to the TX valve was full of carp. Then i looked into my steel liquid line and saw it was rusted on the inside!!! I suspect it is something to do with steel and aluminium contact. I visited a local RR wrecker and they were nice enough to let me plull dahes out to get a replacement steel part. I found another 2 steel liquid lines that had the same rust!! I eventually found an earlier model with a aluminium liquid line pipe. Pulled my 4th dash out!! and checked this one. No rust and the TX valve filter was clean. This is what i have put back inot my car after flushing the whole system and fitting a new drier. Evacuated and charged unit with refigerant and it now works like new. Not sure if anyone will find this useful but something to keep in the back of your mine if your 200TDi has AC with a steel liquid line. Pete
  23. Thanks for posting the pics. This has given me some good ideas on what i want mine to look like. Are the standard CV joints and axles ok with these type of wheels or does this load them up too much that they break? Pete
  24. Paul, Looks like a few interesting thing to look at on my disco too. If nothing else the 3" exhaust looks good and sounds might fine. All you need now is to find the speed to keep up with me on the road and for another 10 grand I might be able to keep up with you off road. Pete
  25. I am thinking of fitting mud terrian tyres. I also have a defender transfer box to fit. I have not yet selected a brand but this seems to be a size that is available in a couple of brands and it will give me a good diff centre clearence.
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