Phill S
-
Posts
336 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Phill S
-
-
1.31 it is then! I'll report back on how it goes...
-
10 hours ago, Eightpot said:
You really won't notice a huge difference with the 1.4, it will just drop engine rpm, there's enough torque in a good engine to disguise the gearing difference but you won't necessarily go any faster as there isn't the hp to overcome the wind resistance.
Thanks for your insights - that's really useful and just what I was looking for!
So my conclusion is that with what I believe to be a very good engine (3,500 miles, 1,100 running hours, looking good inside), and a low ratio gearbox, my best option is going to be the Ashcroft 1.3 ratio LT230 gear set.
If I compare what I would get in terms of the MPH and RPM that the Ashcroft ratio calculator spits out, then for my vehicle I get the following engine RPM:
Ratio 1.41 1.31
10MPH in 1st 2,158 1,991 <- a standard 90 2.5NA diesel would be 1,941
60MPH in 5th 2,700 2,491
Yeah, I'd only get 60MPH downhill with a following wind and I'll need to change down slightly earlier on hills, but the aim of the 1.31 ratio set would be to be a little kinder to the engine in RPM terms, and reduce the decibels. Hill start capability much the same as a stock 90 (with two 9 stone people in the back). And as Sigi says above we also have the low ratios for more challenging hill starts. Also, If I decide to go for a more powerful engine at some point, the transmission can (probably?) remain unchanged.
Think that's the way I'm going...
...until further notice.
Don't think I'd be contemplating this if it weren't for Mike's videos!
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRssffMP_F8_SCJcqFLq4Ow
-
22 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
You know the ratio calculator exists right?
Yup - been using that, although it told me my 50A box had different ratios than the Mil-spec that it actually has. I'm as certain as I can be that I'm the first person inside there. Lost a little confidence in it after that, but then maybe my box is some kind of "special"?
4 hours ago, Eightpot said:military 110s had lower ratio 1st & 2nd gears than standard which will help if you change to a 1.4 box
As Junglie has said above, great to hear your experiences. Another good reason to replace the massive 24v alternator I've currently got then. But no Radio 4?
Just before I start ordering up the Ashcroft 1.4 gears, what did you think of my logic in the opening blurb about ending up with the driving characteristic of a 90 with two 9 stone people in the back? The machinery can only do what the machinery can do, but with the Mil-spec LT77 and the LT230 1.3 ratio gears, first gear upper ratio comes out pretty much identical to the 2.5NA 90. What sort of a monster would that create I wonder...
Gotta ask
-
On 4/27/2021 at 11:43 AM, Junglie said:
I have a 24v alternator from an airportable
...here's the guy I want to move away from:
Mug to give a general perspective.
A couple more:
Had a scrub at the plate there, but it wasn't giving away any secrets. No idea what sort of output it gives
-
24,000 options for you to consider
14 hours ago, garrycol said:24,000 options for you to consider
And there's the problem in a nutshell! Which one of those bad boys is going to just slot in where the 12v alternator would sit, using the same brackets and all?
Am following up the suggestions made so far, and.....
-
Hi Simon - started writing it out but it started looking like the Merlin ship recovery flight test programme.
I'll carry on with with my estimation methods
Thanks anyway
He's hoping for something good to be dropped in there
-
Hi Simon - I suppose what I'm looking for is the same sizeish as the regular 12v job that will sit in the same place as on a standard 19j engine. Never having seen one of those I don't really know how big it is. I'll measure up the one I want to replace tomorrow and get back to you;
Thanks for the offer
-
4 hours ago, Junglie said:
My 110 is also an NA.
Hi Simon - is your vehicle running or have you started taking it to bits already? Have some questions for you if it's still running. You might want to fib.
So a couple of items update. Apparently the 0.77 ratio can't be put into the suffix E LT77 and earlier boxes. Also my tooth count shows my LT77 gear ratios are way lower than I was expecting. My first gear ratio comes out at 3.985. That's 4 to you and me. To eliminate any other surprises I checked the LT230. That's still in one piece but I was able to eyeball it at 1.6. Similarly the front axle (still on the vehicle) comes out at 3.5 - everything as expected there at least.
So it's spreadsheet time to work out the next steps....
-
37 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
You've got some odd size tyres there fella
Dyslexia. Was supposed to be 31". Duuh
-
Hey - thanks all! This is just the sort of advice and experience I was hoping for.
I'll probly stick with 24v for the foreseeable then. Probably straightforward to split off 12v for a regular radio and other bits and pieces.
Assuming soundproofing of course....
Anyway, will update on how it works out
-
Yeah - liquid nitrogen would be fun. You wouldn't need to bother to heat the ring!
My freezer shelves didn't look strong enough. The flywheel is pretty heavy
-
Well, I went to my local guy that specialises in Defender and Series models. He started talking oxy and he didn't do that, didn't know who would etc. Watched guys on YouTube doing just as you describe - including flip it over and use the other side.
Went away and read the manual and found the numbers, and there it is. It works fine.
Don't know what happens if you get it wrong, but I found it just dropped on and into place
-
Yup - only the one massive alternator. Feed goes to both batteries in series under the LHS seat. No radio gear remaining in the vehicle. Even the windscreen washer bottle has 24v stamped on it...
-
Thanks guys, but I think I may have set you off on the wrong tack - and I've also shown I know nothing about winches!
The vehicle is rigged for 24v which I'm happy to stick with, for the time being at least. I'll rewire for 12v one day. So it's not that I want a winch, I just thought that group of folks might have the 24v need. All I need is a 24v alternator to power the basic vehicle kit and will sit in the standard location.
I'm not an auto electrics guy, so thanks Bowie69 for the advice that any decent electric place should be able to sort me out. I guess I just was thinking there might be a consensus view that, for example, a Lucas XYZ unit would be just what I need and would just bolt on to the standard bracket. Sounds like there's any number of units to choose from?
-
Next on my list of dumb questions comes alternators. My vehicle is a 24v 1987 110 with an 18J diesel, the NA variant of the 19J. It is ex-military and came with a massive alternator on the right hand shoulder where, as I understand it, an aircon pump would/could normally live:
I'm guessing I'm not the first to want to do this, and that there will be a preferred much smaller unit that will meet my more modest needs that would sit in the normal position where I've jammed the kitchen roll? The guys with winches are perhaps most likely to know about this?
Any advice and experience welcome
-
Naah - all is good. And chicken tasted great!
-
Did this job on my 18J flywheel the other day and thought it might be of some use to others.
The starter ring seems to have had a hard life:
So with my engine in bits, thought it might as well have a new one:
https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/Misc/568431-ring-gear/
Stick it in the dishwasher when she's not looking or it will make a fearful stink in what follows. Then you'll be in trouble.
Page 59 of section 12 in the workshop manual. Drill an 8mm hole in the old one:
Maybe 7.5mm would have better, but it's only brushed against the flywheel very superficially. Looks worse here than it actually was. Anyway, it let off an almighty cracking sound part way through, and I was then able to prise it off like so.
Raided the recycling and froze lots of water:
Great, she's going to the hairdressers.
Stuck the flywheel in a tub and left it in the ice for a couple of hours:
Then put the new ring in the oven on max for about an hour:
Page 60 section 9 says to heat uniformly to between 225C and 250C, so 240 should be just fine. On fan, of course.
Set your molegrips up before you start, and when the red light goes out you're away:
I would say that once you've opened the oven door and attached the mole grips, you've got about 10 seconds to get it on. Mine slipped on a treat.
Once on, you've just got time to tap it around to align with the timing slot:
An old Bristol 402 bronze valve guide makes for a useful drift to tap it around to align, but anything relatively soft will do.
Be quick though....
-
2
-
-
Ok - thanks Monkie, some good thoughts there...
Think I've worked out what I'm going to do. I'm going to change the LT230 to 1.41, this will give me good enough hill starts. I'll test it up Bowjey Hill in Newlyn. Give it a go next time you're down this way. Also I'm going to up the 5th gear ratio to 0.77. The peak power/torque figures (with a bit of guesswork and general diesel engine behaviour) should mean that on level ground, no wind, I should be able to cruise comfortably at 60MPH at 2,500 RPM on my standard 13" tyres. I don't have a problem with needing to change down to 4th when crossing Bodmin moor. Or the Swiss Alps.
I'll do a tooth count on the internals of my LT77 tomorrow to double check what I've got and figure out what gears I need for a 50A box.
A bit more expense than I'd hoped for, but it will be worth it in the long run.
Unless anybody can tell me differently....
-
Thank you Sigi - good points well made. Wish I'd twigged the LT230 ratio thing before I started dismantling, I could have worked it out experimentally. At least at the top end of the speed range. And I'm of sufficient age to remember when cars only had 4 gears. Some only 3.
I agree Mo, about whacking in a 1.41 box to see what happens. Thing is somebody will have done this already and will have the voice of experience. Anybody?
Still searching for a 12j torque curve...
-
Good morning Sigi - many thanks for your insights. You have an additional 44+ BHP over me, so I'm obviously not able to go as far as a 1.1 ratio. Hey-ho. I have been secretly wondering what would happen to mine if I put a 1.3 ratio in there though. Unlikely to be practical though.
Your calculations on power/gears/ratios? A man after my own heart. I've been setting up the spreadsheets even as we speak. If you or anybody else can point me in the direction of power and torque graphs for the 12J diesel engine I'd be very grateful. I can see why you would want to do it though, we've passed through Switzerland on some very beautiful roads a number of times on trips to Croatia and Bulgaria and you certainly know all about challenging hilly roads.
Many thanks
-
Doing a recommissioning job on my 1987 110 ex-military. That means stopping up the leaks and making sure everything works. 18J engine with its bountiful 67 BHP is coming along just fine, LT77 box likewise, and attention turns to the transfer box. I'm weighing up the pros and cons of changing the gearing on the final drive from 1.667 to 1.41 as on the 90. I can't be the first person to consider doing this on an NA engine, but I can find anything here on the subject. Please point me in the right direction if I've failed to find.
The vehicle has only done 3,500 miles ish. Engine looks great, gearbox internals look like new - except some idiot has slammed it into reverse and chipped the teeth. New gears on order. So I'm not in the business of swapping in a more powerful engine. I want the reliable slog of the good old NA to take me long distances without having to worry about the mechanicals. Typical cruising speed on faster roads, I really only need 60MPH. Long distance means Turkey, Middle East, North Africa etc. Oh - and back home again.
Here's my logic - please shoot holes in it if it doesn't make sense or is just plain wrong. Living in the far west of Cornwall we don't have any motorways, and no real dual carriageway until you get past Hayle (otherwise known as up-country), so my limited driving experience of the 110 prompts my request for thoughts, advice, and maybe even actual experience. Sorry this is a bit of an essay.
Returning to the logic. The 110 hard top weighs in at 1796kg kerb weight, the 90 1685kg - according to Mr Haynes. I assume these are EU defined kerb weights, i.e. full of juices but no people. This puts the 110 at 111kg over the 90. Changing the 110 ratio to 1.41 would then be like driving around in a 90 with two 9 stone people in the back.
The 110 has a 1,154kg payload capability against 715kg for the 90 - again based on Haynes data. Different sources give different numbers, but for where I'm going it's a little academic. I'm never going to get anywhere near the sort of load weight capability of the 110. If I put in the extra weight of the 110 at 111 kg, two people at 150kg, I have 454kg available for tents, cooking, kit and caboodle, spare parts, tools etc until I'm up to the weight of a fully loaded 90.
My first look into the LT230 shows a unit in pristine (but leaking) condition. The 1.41 kit from Ashcrofts looks like a natural. Using their ratio calculator 60MPH at 1.667 means RPM at 3,192 in 5th, and at 1.41 an RPM of 2700. That sounds more comfortable, and a better driving experience?
So...
Q1: Have I got my sums right?
Q2: Whats a 90 with a 2.5 NA diesel like to drive at the sort of loading I'm talking about?
Phill
P.S: Yeah - I know a stock 2.5NA 110 is a bit of a lorry. A 1950's one at that.
-
Thanks for the tip. Will follow up on a separate thread
-
Hi Mike. It was a radio truck, so spent time sitting about on tickover keeping batteries charged. Need to get rid of the massive 24v generator - weighs more than I do. Converting to 12v will be phase 2...
-
Ok = thanks guys. I think I better understand what I've got now.
Phill
Advice on a smaller 24v alternator?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi Simon - thanks for the offer, but not really what I'm looking for. I'm sure somebody will want it though, maybe a for sale ad on here would be worthwhile?
Course I do! I like cake. Maybe I was being a little flippant with:
I guess I was just meaning the most pragmatic solution. Simplest is usually best. So:
Is exactly what I was looking for. As before, my knowledge of alternators is limited to simple replacement of existing models. So yes, the old military type connector has to go, and that's simple enough. As long as I can find an acceptable pulley and mounting it should be simple enough as you say. Just a matter of identifying an alternator that allows it all to happen with the minimum of fuss. What specific unit did you use?
Putting this together with:
and:
also
I now have a good sense of direction. I'm on the case. In other news, I've just bought a dead 19J engine which will hopefully yield up all the standard bracketry, and show me how to mount the power steering pump and brake servo air pump in their "standard" locations on my 18J motor. Won't be able to pick that up for a few weeks yet though, so will hold off buying anything until I've got that as a reference model.
Many thanks all for all the contributions
Next dumb question coming soon - we're getting through them....