bishbosh
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Posts posted by bishbosh
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The battens aren't there to help the webs, but to stop buckling of the compression flanges. If you added say 3 flat plates at the 1/4 points, each plate say 150mm long and welded to the top flanges of the beams (batten plate extends to outer edge of the top flanges) they will effectively make the two beams into one with a much greater buckling capacity than the sum of the two individual beams. They will also help (to a degree) restrain the beams against rotation which may help the trolley move more freely.
I accept that capacity-wise you may have more than you need as it stands but this simple mod would give you a much more robust gantry. Picture nicked from the interweb as apparently it pints a thousand words...
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I would strongly recommend battening the top flanges of your main beams together. It will add a huge amount of stability (and strength) for little effort.
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Looks great! Any plans for shocks on the axle or does it ride OK?
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One thing I learned a good while ago from someone far wiser than me, (although shoe related rather than boot, but the principle still applies) is to not wear the same pair on two consecutive days - it allows the shoe to properly dry out (from sweat as much as external sources) before you wear it again. This significantly retards degradation. I did this for work shoes in the good ol' days of going to the office 5 days a week and it transformed the lives of my shoes - way beyond doubling their lifespan.
I appreciate that for work boots that means a significant extra expense but it should pay for itself over time.
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Angle grinder threads are M14 so you could experiment?
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Wild guess but I’d say flat batteries. It could be your hand warmth is just tipping the remote battery into the green zone after you’ve e been holding it for a while?
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Be aware that the push benders as shown in this thread are very prone to distorting tube, even a Tubela will ripple the inside of bends with normal roll cage wall thicknesses. If it isn’t for protection then probably not an issue.
There are tips and tricks like filling the tube with sand first to support it during the bending process but don’t think you’ll get perfect bends every time.
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Paging @Nonimouse...
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You can get elbows at 2.6mm?
90° Weldable Elbows and Tees | Handrailing | Kite Group Ltd
Or perhaps explore: Buy bent tube sections, roll cages installed or DIY projects (tube-bender.co.uk)
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Thanks both. Trigger pulled!
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As per the title. Any reasonably wallet friendly recommendations for some one 6'2"?
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21 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Should be OK with the bolt/nuts method. Win a nut most of the way onto a long enough bolt, wind the bolt in just enough, and holding that still with a spanner tighten the nut.
This only works if you can stop the fixing spinning which as these don't have any tangs (like the plasterboard versions) may prove to be difficult. I have a tool for setting the plasterboard ones so should be good to go.
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Jack nuts look good - I had considered the equivalent plasterboard fixing but they are much deeper so these look good! Thanks.
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Thanks Mo. I was hoping to find some wonder fixing that removed the need to lower the headlining but it seems I am being over optimistic!
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Has anyone successfully attached one of these 370 x 185mm Plastic Frame Net – MUD-UK (mudstuff.co.uk) to their headlining?
If so, what type of fixing did you use please?
I am assuming the fixings are only in the headlining and not into any of the roof ribs.
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I am glad I am not the only one who works in their slippers!
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1 hour ago, elbekko said:
Revisited this while staring at it together with my resident engineer.
Looks like it should indeed be possible to cut out the top plate at an angle from the winch mounting feet to the chassis plate. And then the freespool lever only needs a small notch to be able to sit where it sits now.
Plan coming together
And now, in the name of scope creep, see if I can get the damn welder to behave...
I is an Engineer dontcha know!
You won't lose very much strength. a 20mm stiffener will add plenty of strength for this application.
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I'd chop all the top plate away from the right hand side of the freespool hole to the left hand end of the drum when looking at the car from the front. Perhaps leave a 20mm "lip" along the front to stiffen the vertical face of the bumper.
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I need to protect my second row passengers' heads from some 20mm square box section that will be sitting behind their heads. The box has ply on the far side so can't totally wrap it so was thinking probably some reasonably dense self adhesive strip on one face would do.
Any recommendations before I trawl endlessly through ebay?
Thanks.
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21 hours ago, Peaklander said:
How cold does it need to get, for you to sleep with it running? I mean actually sleep and not lie there in the morning waiting for it to warmup the cab.
Ours is under the cubby in the Mudstuff heater box BTW.
This is a very valid point and has exposed my over thinking of the problem!
Realistically won't be camping out in stupid cold weather (that is what hotels are for!) so will look into the cubby location although I am still going to explore a vapour build of a box somewhere under a wheel box!
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Thanks all. My CO paranoia is strong so agree on the "not in the cabin" approach.
I don't think there is space under the bonnet which would be the ideal spot so I'll have to consider somewhere underneath and try and make it sufficiently weatherproof for the heater to not self destruct.
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I am thinking of taking a punt on one of the Chinese diesel heaters as for the money they do get reasonable reviews. Struggling to find a home for it though in my 110 TD5 SW. Don't really want it inside for fear of CO poisoning but also unsure of their weatherproofness. (probably zero given the price!)
Any clever ideas out there?
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Ohhh it's been a long time since we had an argument about thickness of plates for winches!😁
By the time you have made 3mm stiff enough to prevent any flex cracking your alloy winch housing you would be better off with 5 or 6mm.
Bent 20mm round bar angled as suggested to pick up on both chassis leg plates is definitely the way forwards.
Talking of forwards, feet forwards will be a more efficient use of material.
My only reservation about the design overall is you will not be able to see the winch drum which I think is a mistake.
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If nothing in the gearbox is turning then it has to be the clutch or upstream of it surely?
Mobile gantry crane
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
The gain is the same more or less for I and H sections.
Don't want to get into an interweb argument so will leave it there.
Bish
MEng CEng MICE MSOA 😛