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Nonimouse last won the day on April 1

Nonimouse had the most liked content!


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About Nonimouse

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    Used to be Honiton Hobbit, so Somerset

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  1. I'd suggest yopu go out and actually drive some of the base vehicles you are thinking about. I had wanted a 101 since they were still being built. Got to drive one a few years ago, whislt I was helping to renovate it. What a truly awful vehicle. Two useable gears - 3rd and 4th. Hot as hell in the cab. Noisy. Appalling handling - even with 3/4 of a tonne in the back. Awful brakes, even re-built....and so uncomfortable. Useless off road as well - utterly useless. It's all stuff that can be sorted out. But why bother? You can't polish a turd - just cover it in glitter. The Volvo is similar - more comfortable. Lovely engine. But anything more than a 20mile drive and your sanity will slip.. The Iveco Daily 4x4 is brilliant - designed for long journeys etc, good engine, good 4x4 system, easy to find spares across the known world. Avoid the 2.3 16 valve diesel. Fitting a cummins 6bt in a 101 would make it drive like banana on ice. The engine is soooooo heavy. The OM606, with an SD350 Pump is super frugal with more than adequate power - brilliant conversion...but expensive Be simpler to buy a 130 and mode that up to be comfortable, realtive high cruising speed and relatively frugal. You can sleep 4 in the quadtech - even the lower hardbody. I had a client the other week, who was sleeping in the hardbody on a 60 plate Invincible - he had fitted electrically powered screw thread jacks in the the corners to lift the hard body 18" - using neoprene to fill the gap. Long distance is about comfort for ALL the passengers and driver. It's about quite, sensible temp levels, easy and safe load storage, reliablity with simple fixing, frugality... Just by a VW T5
  2. Do you not have the over-ride clutch fitted? like two discs, with dimples inforced together by an adjustable spring and ball bearings in the dimples
  3. If you are going back to the 'normal' header tank, try and get a tranparent one - firtly they are less prone to splitting along the seems; secondly and most importantly, just lifting the bonnet allows you to see the cooalnt level.
  4. Keep the Diahatsu lump. Intercool it if it isn't. Rebuild the LT76. Run it as a running resto. It won't lose money and the lump is already in. If the lum,p fails, I would suggest a 2.25 petrol as a replacment...
  5. Have you checked all your earths?
  6. I run 235/85x16's on my disco (albeit Falken Wildpeake MT1's) I chalk tested them when I first fitted them and have ended up at 30 F and 32 rear for general driving. Fully loaded or towing heavy, I run the rears at 38 Interestingly, I have dropped off road pressures to 16 and not lost a bead. I run standard Disco steel rims
  7. I've used Britpart standard springs (colour coded the same as OE) for years (as well as Eiback and OME) I have never had any issues with them, apart from carp paint quality. The front springs on my 200Tdi are Britpart pink/yellow/red and were fitted in 2014. I'm thinking I may replace them in the winter as they are just starting to settle
  8. A waste of time, effort and money
  9. The Hankook MF31-1000 is one of the Hankook batteries produced for Hankook by Lucas - also sold under the Numax brand name
  10. I have a similar problem on my 200. The wipers only park on intermittant. I've not bothered to look at it yet - but would be interested in a solution
  11. We opted to go to Nash Oakland Wild Camping. Thirteen of us all socially distanced. No noise but what we maid. Clean river to swim in, couple of lanes close by, far too much cider and far too much food. All for £10 a head per night. Fantastic
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