Little mule

Was that EBay.com or EBay.co.uk ?

would you be willing to sell me the deep sump. I think I might have a solution for it . I’ll make an adaptor for it so they both fit . let me know .

While perusing the web I found something that might those of us that have a GKN . pits a deep sump that will double or almost triple the amount of ATF in the over drive . I found two companies one is Gear venders over drives and maximum over drive . They are basically the same type of deep sump. the Gear Venders has a spot to mount a temp sender and a rear drain . I think the Maximum Over drive has the same ports. here are a few pics

I’ll have to look closely at the oil recommendations on the instructions . I have a long time friend who works at the oil refinery here on the east coast and she knows her stuff lol. If the instruction call for an oil with certain properties in it im sure she will point me in the right direction . the last time we had a rally she came along and had a blast . She mentioned they are working on a blend of oil for older 70,s and 80,s cars and trucks so they doing burn so much oil . They took most of the lead and zink out of the oils that helped these engines run better and not smoke as much . Some of the older engine don’t like the newer type of oils because they are too thin where as older engines like the thicker natural oils not the synthetic blends .

Sigi I did ent realism there was a protective coating on the clutch. I thought it might be built the same as. Old ferry with just a cone type clutch . When I was in the military we had these German jeeps called litis,s and they would start to grind during shifting . They used to run ATF in them . One of the things we had to do to make them shift better was use a Mopar product that was supposed to help with the shifting problem . It’s was a friction modifier . It was mainly used in mopar automatics to help them shift properly . I will tell you it really really stunk god t was bad. It took days to get it out of your cloths in you spilt any. I think I’m dating my self now lol . does running synthetic ATF make a difference ? I also posted a link I found on a bigger sump with this work and maybe help with cooling ? right now I have the over drive still packed away in the box ready to go together . My LT77 is on the bench because it grinds going into 2nd weather it’s a up shift or down shift . I have a complete rebuild kit from Ashcroft . They also rebuilt this tranny about 20 years ago when the previous owner had it . Other than that it runs a treat. Once I get the old VM junk out I’m sure this truck will last me a long time . I want the get the best out of the drive train because my wife and I want to travel now that I’m retired from the military and we want to take the rangie as our drive around truck . We will be towing it behind our motor home on a trailer when we travel .

Thank for the reply. after looking at my expanded schematic of the GKN I guess you could say it does have a hydraulic property to it because of the shift solenoid changes the flow of the fluid and apples a clutch to shift in and out of over drive . I would be interested in a bigger sump is @vulcan bomber is having some made up. I do remember looking for a deeper sump and thought the denorminville (I think that’s how you spell it) over drive had a deeper sump . This is the one they used on older Volvo,s and some NA trucks and cars used on this side of the pond . I bought my truck in 2010 and it can from France . It has ZERO rust. It looks like was stored in a barn or sea container for years and never exposed to the elements. the 2.5 VM had a head gasket leak when I bought it and I fixed that with a little magic lol from the auto supply store. It ran very well up u till the day I decided I was not letting a Toyota preius pass me on the road. I do remember looking down at the speedo and I was going 175kph and the temp gauge was in the red then I saw some blue smoke out the tail pipe . I now have extreme blow by and oil gets sucked into the air cleaner and it could runaway if I had kept driving it. I was getting about 26mpg and I wasn’t driving it easily . I could get close to 30mpg if I took it easy. The engine had 280+km,s on it at the time and already had head work and so on. I has to admit it was one of the best trucks I ever bought for the money at the time . I paid $8k cad including shipping on a row row to Canada from France . Today try to find a rust free two door left hooker form under 30k and that’s if it’s in ok shape lol. I just found this site with a gearvenders OD and they offer a deep sump for their over drives. I wonder if they would fit the GKN over drive https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/engine/gearvender-deep-sump-installation-tutorial-maximum-overdrive/ I was looking an installing a OM606 but it’s way to expensive and I have all the parts here to build a super strong 300 or 200. cheers

Hi everyone . this topic is very interesting to me. I have a brand new GKN over drive in my shop still in the box ready to install. my Goal is to install it into my 1990 RRC 2 door. Here in Canada the winters are pretty harsh sometimes and the wires get corroded fast . I’m thinking I won’t be installing the speed sensor because I’m the only one who drive my truck . Right now the old VM is a boat anchor but still starts and runs but you pour more oil into the intake than anywhere else lol. My plan is to do up a 300 with all the go fast goodies once I have the rotating assembly balanced . The only parts that are being reused are the crank shaft and connecting rods ,but I might up grade them to fractured rods instead of the factory machines rods. Ok back to the over drive . has or does anyone know of a person installing the over drive onto a auto box ? . im really not considering it but it would nice to know if it’s been done. my truck has a LT77S rebuilt by Ashcroft and I’m ditching the B/W T-case and going to a LT 230 with 1.4 gearing . Both my front axle and rear are both going to be Salisbury diffs. I found a SNATCH truck front Salisbury out of the UK and I had a rear out of a 110. Both will have true-trac,s installed . I’m still not sure if I want to go with a bigger tire or just stay with the 235,s im also going with the softest springs I can I think are 125lb springs. I want a smooth ride and air suspension doesn’t work well here in Canada . I also have the factory load lifting unit in the back and it still works well. The over drive takes ATF and that may be part of the problem I think. ATF is designed for pressure and allows slippage in a auto box and it burns up pretty easily. my B/W T-case burns it up regularly if I don’t change it every 10k miles . my LT77 also takes ATF but I changed it to Castro 5W50 synthetic engine oil . The oils is designed to lube bearings and bushings . I have a friend that’s lived in S/A and his dad was burning up ATF and his tranny in his 110 and it was running super hot . I suggested for him to change the ATF out and install the Castrol engine oil. He did change it and his tranny temp dropped by 30 degrees and ran smoother and shifted better. I have also done it on my LT77 and it makes a huge difference . I wonder if this oil change solution would work with the GKN ? I have read somewhere you can buy a deeper sump for the GKN and it gives you a little over a liter in the reservoir . the deeper sump also have cooling fins that are now exposed to ail flowing over them to help cool the oil . just my thoughts . im also very interested in anyone’s thought of things I should do and need to know before I install it into my RRC . I’ll be going with the same setup as most 238/85/16 tires , 1.4 T-case and a five speed . My turbo set up is a hybrid rover/ cosworth Turbo with three inch exhaust all the way back . im still trying to decide on weather on not to use the 300 disco exhaust manifold instead of the factory 300 unit . The disco manifold will keep the heat of the turbo away from the intake manifold which should increase performance and not heat soak all the inlet piping to the intake manifold . I bought the over drive brand new 10 years ago and opened it up to get the owners manual and put some preservative on whole unit and packed it up and stored it . I hope to have it out and installed in the next cpl of years lol. Thanks for all your info and advise I look forward to hearing from you all . Thanks Tony ps this is my ride and those are factory wheels from Land Rover

Bowie69 I believe they used the Salisbury in series trucks as well as 110 and 130 as well as the 1 ton. the splines are 24. And yes the axle,is heavier but I can’t see how it will cause more stress on the transmission. In the series trucks and stage 1 v8 had Salisbury axles front and rear and used a LT95 out of a RRC they also installed the Salisbury into series trucks and those transmissions worked out ok . we now move to the 90/110/130 and it’s used very well when bolted up to a R380 and a LT77 and LT77S. I don’t. Drive my truck hard and I’m not out doing donuts so I’m pretty sure the tranny will hold up to what ever engine I use as long as the tranny is shifted properly and maintained properly. all I can say is I’ll try it out and if it doesn’t work I’ll swap it back the the factory setting and axles . before I take any truck out on the road way I always make sure I drive it around my property and make sure things are working they way they are supposed to,work . I’ll know right away weather or not the braking systems is going to stop and work properly . Once I do that I move up to the next phase of driving it up and down my country road and slowly increase speed and make sure the steering and shifting works well as well as the brakes and sway bars . you get the picture lol our trucks and cars here have to have a yearly MOT as you call it and I’ll have the inspection shop check to make sure everything is correct and steering alignment is done so it drives down the road straight and doesn’t wander all over the place . one other inspection we have is a engineers report if the truck have been rebuilt . They go through and make sure the truck meets all the safety guide lines in order to be able to drive it on the road . This inspection also needs to be done if the chassis has been swapped or altered in anyway like galvanizing . I’m sure it will pass with flying colours and. Safe to drive .I may also have to put historic plates on it and will have driving restrictions placed on when and where I can drive it (going to,a car show or meet and so on) . im pretty sure I’ll be happy with it and it not change it u til it’s correct Tony

I tried to use early 110 front. Callipers on my d1 and that was a huge mistake and failed badly . I only got down my street and had no brakes at all on the first pump . On the second pump I had full hard brakes but bairly stopped at the stop sign. The truck went back to the shop and I reinstalled the factory disco 1 calibres. when I installed the bigger calliper I didn’t take into account the amount of volume of brake fluid I would need for the bigger pistons. the master cylinder was to small to give enough push on the first peddle push . For a second I was having flash backs of driving a old series truck lol. the front brake master provides much more fluid to move the bigger pistons. you can just change out the master either because the mounting flange in mounted on a 45 degree compared to the 110 which it sits level . im sure once I install the huge vacuum booster from another RRC it will be more than enough to stop the truck . I have some factory turbine wheels I bought a few years ago and I hope they will fit the bigger. Callipers with no problems I like the look of them .

Thank for your input I appreciate another point of view. my RRC is not going to see snow lol it’s in way to nice of shape to do that to it . This is what I have the D1 I drive it in the winter as my daily and yes it handles very well with the factory set up. this 2nd conversion was a I’ll try it and see how it works . It was a option for the 110 in its early days when the 110 was running the 2.25 and 2.5 petrol. They then had to install the 1.6 T box . I have already had to install tire chains this winter because of the amount of snow we had be received . one thing I love about these trucks are the ability to change things up if needed .

Thanks for your input Snagger when I bought the Salisbury axles I made sure they sent me the front drive shaft with the cardinal joint in it . They also sent me the mating drive flange for the T case. I also received the front sway bar and mounting hard ware. The front sway bar is huge compared to the factory RRC one . The rear axle came with drum brakes . I found a set of disc brakes calliper mounts to convert the rear axle to discs . These calliper mounts allow you to,convert from drum to discs by using the rear stub axle bolts to mount them . These mounting brackets were Land Rovers fix util they completely converted all of the 110 rear axles with the calliper mounting brackets already installed and part of the axle housing and mount onto the axle casing tubes. when I did a vin search on my RRC it came back and a 400D model and had all the police spec suspension the funny thing is the truck did not come with any sway bars at all front or rear . I almost drove into the ditch when I picked up my truck from the RowRow . I thought I had a flat tire or something wrong with the truck . I had a few pucker moments driving the truck util I realized there were no sway bars . once I was used to the way the truck handled with out them the truck was more predictable when making sharp turns and going around a round about . You just let it lean over and go lol. the rear sway bar will most likely be a 110 rear or a P38 rear as they are very strong and will hold the truck down in the turns . the rear drive shaft I know will need to be replaced and have a double Cardin joint installed at one end or possibly both ends . the front drive shaft has already been up graded to greaseable U joints at both ends and I also can grease the centre joint in the cardinal joint. the rear shaft will be built the same as the front . The company I’m using builds drive shafts for the racing industry and know about the D2 drive shaft joints blowing up and taking out the tranny and Tcase. Ill just have them install new joints and make the centre ball joint greasable . you may be right on the handling and possibly safety . When the truck is on the road I know if I need to,change it back to a stock LT230 with the center diff. If I need to I’ll get a Ashcroft centre diff unit and install that and take off the free wheel hubs and go back to normal drive flanges. plans can still change as nothing is set in stone . the rover type diffs I have here now are out of D1/D2 and a cpl of old RRC ones. The P38 axles I have the diff is on the wrong side but I can still use the diff center .if I use these P38 diffs I’ll have to have drive shafts made anyways because they are the short bull nose diffs and are shorter than a regular rover diff. The problem here in Canada they love to put tons of salt on the roads and the axle housings are pretty rotted out . Even the axle tubes are full of heavy corrosion and would need a lot of work to redo. the axles out of my RRC when I bought it are ok and not too badly corroded and can be saved . They were also 10 spline . I can up grade the half shafts to 24 spline out of a D1/D2 with out too much hassle . I might use these Salisbury axles under my off road truck as it only sees off road and is not a daily driver . I’ll fix up the old RRC axles housings and use them. the B/W Tcase has to go because of the over drive and the viscus unit is well past it’s life expectancy and keeps burning up the fluid in it . that’s is why I’ll be changing it out to the LT230. once I get the frame back from the galvanizes and restart the assembly I’ll have a better idea of what I will need and want . im not even installing a winch on my RRC . I have a factory ARB front bumper made out of aluminum that doesn’t have a winch mounting plate it will give me a good place to mount driving lights and so on. having the GKN over drive will help out a lot on the hills I’m my part of the country and being able to split shift gears comes in very handy so the engine isn’t screaming or lugging along on the long up hill drives we have here in NB Canada. I have been using Ashcrofts ratio calculator and running some numbers to see what the best combo will be . im glad they added the different over drive makes so you can see what RPM you will be running with different gears and tires and so on. I want my RPM to be around 2200 to 2600 when cruising on the highways . tony

Thanks for all the reply’s . the main reason for the 4x2 swap is as you stated I’m dragging all the front axles drive train around . the is no real reason in my opinion to have the truck is 4x4 all the time and it helps a little with fuel mileage and easier steering .I have owned rovers for over 30 years and I don’t do the burn out thing or race the trucks I have . I drive them because I enjoy building and driving them . I’m a tired retired injured vet and building my trucks helps keep my mind focused . I’m also not wearing out components that really don’t need to be used unless in off reading or in snow . I converted my 2500 ram Cummins and the fuel mileage went up to just under 25 mpg and it’s a 7000 lb truck. It steers much easier and using 2 wheel low helps backing my car trailer up much easier . I have the Salisbury diff already rebuilt and they have less that 3500 miles on them from factory . They came out of a ex military snatch rover I had them shipped over about ten years ago and were absolutely in perfect condition . The parts on this side of the pond for a D60/ Salisbury axles are alot cheaper than standard rover axles and yes I know they are heavier than a standard rover type. it’s the cost of shipping these days To get diff parts sent over . I had also built these axles up for another project for someone and they bailed on the project . The engine swap im trying to keep the cost down and I have all the parts in stock for the 200/300 engine left over from the same build that the axles were for . I also have a cpl of old D1/D2 for parts. if I decide to go with a V8 I have a stroked 4.6 P38 engine I can throw in and everything will line up and match . the 4.6 was built for my off road truck and is still waiting for the old 4.0 to blow up but it is still hanging on . I have been down the engine conversion route several times and besides cost it’s a pain trying to find ,locate or have parts made to fit the swap properly. with my RRC I’ll probably get about 135 hp out of my engine and that’s more than enough for me to cruise around with . If I want to hit the loud peddle I use my D1 . I will also probably go done a little on the tire size . I have 235/85/16 on my off road disco and it works fine . I love the reply’s and advise from everyone thank you . opinions and comments are always welcome Thanks very much Western for the install manual . Tony

Hi everyone . It has been a while since my last post . I have a cpl of questions on the GKN over drive my truck is a RRC 1990 that I bought 10 years ago form a guy in France and shipped it to Canada . it is a completely rust free truck and has about 250k miles . It came with the original VM 2.5 which is now a boat anchor ( long story) it came with a rebuilt Ashcroft LT77 and the factory B/W T case. it’s a two door left hooker and the only electronics are the electric windows and mirrors . I love it because of there are no electronics and it’s a really beautiful truck . my plan is to replace the VM with either a 200 or 300 with hybrid turbo turner performance head (brand new not rebuilt) I also have the parts to fix the grinding second gear problem which in my fault trying to speed shift lol. the Tcase will be replaced with a LT230 and a part time 4x4 kit I also have free wheel hubs for the front. I also have a front and rear Salisbury for stronger axles . My question is with the GKN. It is brand new still in the box but no fitting instructions . I will be taking out the electronic box and speed sensor because they are known for problems and I want the over drive to be as simple as possible . Is there a certain ratio of transfer box that I need to use to install the over drive into ? I have a Ashcroft rebuilt Tbox with the part time kit installed and is a 1.4 ratio. I live in Canada and where I live there are a lot of hills so the GKN will come in handy . I will be running 33 x 10.5 x 15 BFG alterrian tires . my truck will not be a off road truck I have a D1 for that more of a daily driver . is the 1.4 the correct Tbox for this over drive or do I need to change it for a different gear ratio. if I need to change gearing I would rather do it on the axles as the T box is pretty much new with the rebuild . I can also get the axle gears a lot cheaper here for the salisbury / dana60,s any advice Wurl be greatly appreciated . thank