Little mule

Hi all I got a call from my machine shop today and they had a question for me . im a defender RRC and disco guy so bear with me lol the machine shop needs the min and max diameter of the surface for the rear crank seal on a 3MB crank shaft . they are trying to save a crank and need to know what they need to turn It down to . any help would be greatly appreciated tony

I would love to have the 6x6 but there are too many projects going on and they aren’t mine lol. this job I have in my shop now is the last one I’m doing . I’m going to be working on my own trucks from now on . I have a d1 that’s been waiting forever to have the 4.6 stroked and balanced engine installed into it . then there is my RRC im still tossing around installing the Salisbury axles into my D1 because it’s my off road truck . one has a tru-trac in it for the rear and I might install another true - trac in the front . It will have the 4x2 conversion done as well as the RRC . I have a brand new HP24 I might pull the guts out of and install into my HP22 just to beef everything up for off reading . I’ll just be running stock ratios and a 1.4 Tcase so I can fit the 33,s on it but that’s it . I thought installing the Salisbury axles might help keep the center of gravity lower but it’s a Land Rover lol. I bought a safety devices 6 point inner roll cage and might install it into the RRC because we know how good they are in you roll them over even if it’s just on the road way and not off road . I might just copy the whole cage and install one into the D1 that should be easy enough with a pipe bender and some sand so the corners of the pipe bends don’t kink . with the Salisbury’s in the D1 I need to have custom drive shafts made with double cardinal joints on each end because of the 2 inch lift and the 33,s the angles are just too much with the Salisbury axle input centreline is lower than the rover type diff. And every rover diff I have is just plain worn out . The center pins have worn the case oval so they are now junk lol unless I install a locker of some type . im sure the RRC with rover type diffs should hold up to the very tuned 300 and the over drive . The 4x2 conversion should do well as 99 % of the driving will be on the paved roads and it being a show truck . It will be trailered every where we go unless it’s close .

I bought my Salisbury axles from Hobson My front axle was out of a 110 1 ton and the rear from a 130 . the axles and about 3000 miles on them and you get everything HUB to HUB ,brakes flex lines all steering components . Drive shaft and adaptor , sway bar and mounts . It was all crated up and when they crated it they bent a front backing plate . They sent me two new ones to replace the bents ones . the axles are as rust free as you can get . they come in 21L and 22L configurations right and left hand drive respectively . I paid 800 quid for the front and it was worth every penny . As suggested sleeping the tube is the best option if you can not afford a complete axle .you won’t brake one once sleeved or as in ssome cases trussed like the above pics . Tony

Hi everyone . I have a question . Does anyone know or has tried to mount a P38 Range Rover roof onto a Range Rover classic ? I know this seems odd but my classic roof collapsed from last winters heavy snow fall. I had about 7 feet of snow on the roof and did not get it removed in time and it collapsed on the right front courier down to the back of the door . I have a 2000 P38 here with a perfect roof on it and wondered if I could install it onto to my classic. if that can’t be done does anyone have a RRC roof in good Nic on this side of the pond Canada . my old roof has no sun roof but that’s not a problem. im just wondering if it will fit and not cause me a lot of work to try and fix the old roof . my truck is a 1990 two door left hand drive . tony

The splitting of the gears where I live is a must unless you have the HP to pull everything . I remember towing a 63 109 SW on a car trailer with my old 73 109. I only had the old 2.25 in the 109 plus an over drive . The grade of the hill was 10%. The trucks have to stop and do a brake check on this hill which is 11 km,s long . I actually have to pull over and shift into low range and then start again using every gear I had to get up the hill. Now I was WAY over weight as the 109SW was full to the brim with extra parts . I used low range because I didn’t want to break anything on the way up the hill . I truly loved having the ability to split shift to get the truck home . I think I made it up to 3/od in low range and the engine got a little warm but I made it . The truckers ALL have a special lane so others can pass them who’s made me proud because I actually did pass two of them . I stopped and let everything cool down when I reached the top which never seemed to come lol. It just went on and on and on lol. I learned my lesson and now tow with a 6.7 ram 2500 with just under 500 hp . It doesn’t even break a sweat with my camper in the box and my car trailer loaded with the rover and all of my gear for our annual week of off roaring .

That over drive looks like it’s got a deep sump on it . I live in a very hilly part of the country and having the ability to split gears is what I’m looking for . if someone has a GKN installed and has a measurement of the distance I might be able to get some one here to have a look at doing something . Measurements between the exhaust and so on and maybe a pic or two . I know a cpl of really good machinists in the club who would love nothing better than to tackle something like this . And im sure bomber will come up with something 👍

I have been around rovers for over 30 years . I have been down the engine conversion thing . The high ratio box thing . The change the gear ratio in the axle change thing and I’m pretty sick of figuring out what I wanted . This is what I’m looking for . A strong 300 rover tranny and transfer box with an over drive . I’ve been collecting these parts for the past while knowing what I have been looking for . I have a beautiful rust free two door . Now it’s time to get the drive train sorted . just looking for some advice is all

If someone were to build a spacer plate to lower the over drive sump to clear the bigger Tcase sump . How deep would it have to be 3 to 4 inches ? Maybe more or less ? if some one has both parts available in their shop would it be possible to do a quick measure to see what it would take to have a spacer plate made to lower the MO deep sump. thanks everyone for their help Tony

Ok Todd NOW I have it bud sorry for any confusion it’s been a rough with F in law passing . I understand what’s your asking .

I’m not really on face book accept for my wife’s games . I’ll join the group later today what I have some time .

I’m not sure if mine works lol it better it is brand new lol.

Thank you for the information on this site . It’s always nice to have a place where you might be able to get some parts. I really appreciate the scale and scope and everyone’s advise on everything I have learned and read on this forum thank you everyone Tony

My friend mentioned this as well . They are either in and out the same end or a through and through. I’m thinking the shifting piston might be the same thread and some parts might fit. he also mentioned that he had one that was shifting in and out on its own . He took it apart and found the “O” rings were worn out on the internal pistons . He replaced them and it worked very well. we might find or be able to find parts this way rather than paying the arm and leg price from known dealers. I’ll take a look at one or two of them this week when I have some time . the shift button on the shifter and wiring might be a little more robust than the GKN version Tony

I have a long time rover friend and he has been running Volvo cares for years . he has had the over drive systems in his Volvos as well. I’ll be headed his way this week and we are going to be looking at the ins and outs of the over drives and see how close they are to the GKN . he told me on the phone that they did use some sort of speed control on them . If the over drive was left on and you down shifted the over drive switched off . When you were back into forth gear it automatically came back on. the Volvo cars used two types of engagement button . One of them was on the shifter like the GKN and the other type was a switch on the dash like a signal light switch. the hydraulic shift unit mounted on the side to shift it in and out could be connected directly and would work with out any problems. he also stated when the over drive was on and you shifted into reverse nothing happened you just backed up. I’ll have more info and pics as well. Tony

Todd I have several spacer plates here that use the existing mounting bolts for the backing plates . if you want the actual factory defender rear discs which are very expensive they will fit right on the axle with the Callipers . The easiest thing to do is get the adapters for the calliper mount and have 125 though removed from the adapter removing the material from the calliper mounts centres the disco discs into the calliper . You then install your brake pads , you now have rear discs on the drum brake axle. this is what I did and the brakes work the very best . You don’t even have to change the master cylinder from the big master cylinder used for the drum brakes . This gives you more clamping force on the brakes. im sure the calliper mounts can be found and for a good price . Have them machined and install the disco Callipers and discs with brake pads and now your rear brakes are now converted to discs .from drum The part number is FTC3306 for the calliper mount. you will of course need some longer bolts to mount the calliper mounts to the axle housing . you have to remove 125 though from the mounting surface where the mounting bracket meets the axle housing flange where the brake backing plate meets the axle tube . I hope this helps . Tony

Hi Todd smitty here from NB . My front Salisbury is a 22L and my rear Salisbury is a 21L the front axles are either 21L or 22L it just denotes the right or left hand drive axle. This is on the early diffs up to 1984 when they went metric . all of the series Salisbury’s and the early 110 rears were all 8H axles . They were also SAE they are also mentioned on the DANA site for true tracs. the later axles are all metric . If you want to convert the axles to 4.7 ratio you need to use a spacer I think it could be the other way around and have to use a spacer for the 3.54 . I bought a spacer plate from Randy’s ring and pinion for a D60 axle . You also need to use your old bolts with the righ gears because the bolts you get with the kit are way too big. at the moment I can’t remember if I have to have 100though taken off the adaptor to get the true trac to get the ring gear to center into the diff. are you swapping both axles to Salisbury ones ? I can go do some measuring for you if you wish . tony

I also forgot to mention I would be interested in some of the gaskets kits as well . This way I’ll have some in stock for my own over drive and not have to part with an arm or a leg or two lol . let me know and I’ll get the money transfer out and ready Tony

I could take mine out of the box and snap some pics and put a thread gauge on it to find out would that help ?

How technology has come a long way like three D printing parts lol I was thinking of asking a friend who has a milling machine to make me the extension housing so I could fit the MO deep sump under the over drive . The extension pipe won’t be hard to make or the magnet location . I have a question that should be pretty easy . Roamer driver sells a temp gauge set up for the deep sump on the T case. I know the MO has a drain and a temp gauge spot on the deep sump. The temp gauge looks electric and I imagine I can change it to a mechanical gauge like the deep sump for the T case . Can anyone tell me what the running temp and max temp the T case and the over drive should be run at ? There are ALOT do pros and cons between the GKN and the Roamer drive . I have a Brand new GKN and I really want to use it BUT the Roamer driver can be used in all gears and has a better oiling system . I did get a quote from Roamer driver the other day and he said he has units to sell and get out the door But will not be selling through BP anymore and now that BearMach is gone you will have to go direct to him here in Canada . the price he quoted me was about $3100.00 CAD . OUCH . he said he still has units for series /90/110 and LT95 for the RRC and the famous forward control . For that price I might as well keep my GKN and if I look after it and change the oil all the time will help,. I just worry about not being able to get parts if it not working properly . I know lots of guys on here are getting 100K miles out of them if they are looked after . I don’t plan on putting anywhere near that on my RRC after it’s restored . My RRC came with NO electronics other than electric windows and mirrors that’s it. Everything else is manual . I looked up the VIN and it states it was a police package in France . With a 2.5 VM and LT77S and a B\W T case. I do love the simplicity of his Roamer drive and having the ability of using parts out of a series or defender inside makes it some what easier to fix if it breaks and there are no electronics on it . I also like the fact I can use it is ALL gears . Where I live on the east coast of Canada it’s ALL hills lol . Anyone know how often the electronics break on the GKN if they are kept inside the cab out of the elements? How reliable is the shift solenoid? Could I just hook it up so it doesn’t have any of the electronics in it and only have the shift solenoid? I know I’ll have to be super careful not to engage it at low speed or reverse . I’ll add a light to the dash to let me know when it’s on as well as on the shifter knob. The GKN should also handle the power of my very tuned 300 , and my 1.4 T case with 33/10.5/15 . And my turbine wheels . im still grasping on what 5 speed tranny I should use or maybe a auto box . Will an auto box work with any over drive ? I was thinking a 380 but like the strength of the NV3550/4500 mated to the LT230 but I don’t think I can run the overdrive the NV series 5 speeds.I'm still figuring things out lol . This truck is NOT going to be an off Roader. I have my 1998 D1 v8 for that lol.

I didn’t see that model of deep sump when I was on their web site . Do you have a part number and maybe a web site . i might be using the wrong website to find the deep sump. it would be nice to find one for the rover GKN . I have a deeper sump for the T-case and to be perfectly I don’t need it as in not going to be pounding my truck off road anymore . It will be on a trailer when my wife and I are travelling with the camper on the back of my RAM 2500 and towing the trailer . We will be doing our touring around with the RRC . Tony

Hi all I have been following a few different threads on this site and maybe someone can help me out . I have a BRAND NEW GKN still in the box in my shop waiting to install into my RRC when I fully restore it. in one of the other threads I have been watching they mentioned a gear venders over drive and a Maximum over drive version are they the same ? they sell a deeper sump that brings the level of fluid up to almost double and it has cooling fins on the bottom of the sump. they also allow for a drain and a temp gauge . I was told this would not fit the rover GKN because it interfered with the extra large t-case Sump with the fins that you can buy for the rover T-case . It’s either you run the over drive with the deeper sump and the bigger sump for the T-case not both . I have looked at the Maximum over drive deep sump and I think I can make it work with a milling machine and a block of billet. I have a cpl of questions . 1. can having a bigger sump and more oil capacity and a way of cooling the oil help or just change the oil when you change your engine oil. 2. can some on tell me where I can find and buy a deeper sump or have a used one I could buy to try and make fit the rover GKN. I was told the design was the same as a De Normanville is this true ? I don’t want to install something I’m going to hate or regret later on once my truck in on the road again. I also won’t be putting the miles on that you guys do. My wife and I’ll be travelling and t owning the RRC on a trailer behind our truck with a camper on it . I love all comments thanks Tony

Do you know what model of transmission you bought it for ? I have a friend who has lots of Volvo trannys around he might have one kicking around .

Was that EBay.com or EBay.co.uk ?

would you be willing to sell me the deep sump. I think I might have a solution for it . I’ll make an adaptor for it so they both fit . let me know .

While perusing the web I found something that might those of us that have a GKN . pits a deep sump that will double or almost triple the amount of ATF in the over drive . I found two companies one is Gear venders over drives and maximum over drive . They are basically the same type of deep sump. the Gear Venders has a spot to mount a temp sender and a rear drain . I think the Maximum Over drive has the same ports. here are a few pics