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Disco-Ron

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Posts posted by Disco-Ron

  1. I have the above engine in my 90. But I've removed the original cats and want to now remove the lambdas. Hence I need to change the tune resistor.

    No one seems able to get the original part. So it looks like I need to make one. Is it simply a case of changing the actual resistor. I understand I need a 470ohm 1/2 watt resistor. But as I'm not sn electric guru I'm unsure if they are the only specs I need to look for. ..

    many thanks.

    Ron

  2. Only a few weeks ago I had a chassis blasted and dipped. Total cost for that was just over 300....

    If it had been an older chassis I would have had it blasted first. Then repaired it. Then dipped it....

    one thing to bear in mind is the amount of crud that gets inside the chassis. I have just cut the old one up. And one section is almost solid. Dipping won't cure that !

  3. I'm fitting a hotwire v8 in my defender, and the original discovery inlet arrangement won't fit easily...... I'm probably going to move the Mac to behind the throttle cable.... what I'm interested in is ... is there a recognized maximum length between the Mac and inlet...... I've heard stories of other engines making more torque the longer the length, to a point, but I suspect in my case a few extra inches probably won't make any difference......

    Still an interesting question though, for me anyway.....

  4. Bezt one I've seen local to me id s car port.

    or in reality. A scaffold frame wrapped in packaging cling film. .... as long as you don't do any grinding it could be quite effective. .. its pretty strong stuff in multiple layers.

  5. I think it probably depends on the age of the vehicle. Mine is sn 86..... I think the newer 300era ones had more relays. ... possibly one for the starter. .. mine doesn't have. But will most likely have one soon. .

    I'm going to use the supplementary fuse box from a 300 to power a few things. ...

  6. I'm just about at the point of wiring my truck after quite an extensive rebuild, which has included fitting a 3.9 v8 and auto box.

    If someone could point me to a wiring guide for the hotwire side of things that would be great, (I've searched extensively).... however this question relates to the starter inhibitor, am I right in thinking that I can effectively take the wire that currently goes to the starter solenoid and wire it through the park/neutral switch and back to the solenoid, the switch is connected when in park and neutral so I assume that as the solenoid wire is only a trigger wire it should work if I do what I've suggested......

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