Disco-Ron
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Posts posted by Disco-Ron
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Don;t do what my cousin did on his escort............. he wrapped the engine in a blanket,.......... then forgot...!!
3 months later he started the car............. he's now rebuiling it from a bunrt out shell!!!
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Had a friend with a very similar issue yesterday on his 200, it turned out to be an air leak on the inlet pipe into the lift pump........
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The missus has a 1970 2a swb petrol. We've been trialing it this year & it goes quite well considering it's bog standard!
On the road between 40=50mph it gets really 'jumpy' if I use too much throttle but is ok if I only use 1/4 throttle.
It only does it in 4th.
I changed the carb for a second hand 34ich
which improved it to where it is now (drove like a pig before!)& have striped the dizzy. New fuel pump.I'm leaning towards the vacume advance perhaps? Any other ideas?
Take the dizzy cap off, then suck on the advance pipe and see if the points move..................
ps... that must be the fastest you've ever had it Rog...... and you only found that out cos you had to drive it home yesterday..!
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On the top of the inlet manifold is a sensor, this is as far as i'm aware the cold start sensor.......... which basically richens up the fuelling when stone cold..... maybe that needs changing.....
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sounds like rear radius arm bush to me........ check those too!!!!!!!!
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Ta for the ideas......... i just have the empty space in the rear of the chassis, and don;t really wanna carry any more gear around, hence not wanting to carry a compressor, however, i think there might be room in my battery box,....... is there a way of mounting an outlet so that it would come through the seatbox somehow...???
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Right, i am toying with the idea of fitting an air tank under the rear of my 90, in the space in front of the rear xmember... the question is this, if i was to do such a thing, what size tank would i need to fit in order to say re-inflate a 33 inch tyre from flat to 35psi.... lets say a couple of times...... i wouldn;t have an onboard compressor, but would aim to refill when needed from the one at home...... its just a thought at the moment.....
Cheers.
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I am waiting for my new chassis to arrive, and have bought a brand new chassis loom, and some ducting to put over the loom before i feed it through the chassis...... just in case!
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Thanks Paul.... i've thought it through so many times it shouldn;t be an issue, but thanks anyway,.... plus the fact, if you have any sense you'll have xmas week off..... sounds like you deserve it!
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Hi All, i am just wondering what peoples opinions about the idler bearings is.... i replaced my idler (the whole thing) less than 2k ago, and now the bearing is squeling again..... why do they not last long these days...?? or are they just carp.... ps, it wasn't a cheap one!!
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Hi Paul, thanks for that..... my chassis is due in the next week or two, spoke to richards yestersday..........
I am currently taking deliveries, (several!) of bits for the rebuild..... why do these things always end up costing more than you think oroginally...LOL....
I'm now going to lift my body with a scaffold frame and block and tackle..... fingers crossed it'll go ok..... i have three weeks off over xmas to do it, so should have loads of time....
Ron.
ps, i noticed you've not been around for a while.... hope all ok!!!
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If you use the truck for everyday, leave them at home, and only take them out with you when you might need them, mine live in the garage, along with the ground anchor and tirfor........ that i bought when i got stuck once, and couldn't winch myself backwards....... never used it yet..!
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Read this......... esp post number 8.... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=62299
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Reminds me of a fire call i went to whilst in the fires service........... a kettle element hung ina greenhouse as a heater......... wired up to 5amp cable............. the guy touched it with his clothing........... it wasn't pretty!!!!!
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I saw that and thought the same............ yuck!
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I had another thought too.,........... you can always remove the front prop aswell, and that way you don;t actually need to move the truck, just use difflock to make sure the back flange goes round........ you could even lay underneath and watch then, while someone else 'drives/.... as such!
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Pete, do you have a few washers handy the size of the propshaft bolts..?? if you do, use a few washers to make up the thickness of the propr flange, therefore the disc won;t float, and if its the xbrake binding you'll find out....
You could even put the rear shafts back in, and drive it in difflock ... clearly not far, or ideally in the wet, as the wet would get into the rear axle....................!
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8inch will be just fine............
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When i did mine, the hoist wasn't 'quite' long enough either, i ended up with the engine hanging 'down' at the back to give the length i needed, then jacked the back of the engine up, and put a ratchet strap around the hoist and bumper to hold tension on it, then wound the engine over and CLICK.... it went together!..
Doing it with the engine out is i'm sure easier than removing the gearbox, esp if you don;t have a ramp and transmission jack etc..........
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I find the trick to getting the input shaft back in the splines is to get them together, then with the gearbox IN gear, turn the crank pulley with a socket..... ideally whilst pushing the engine backwards.... this will allow the splines ti slip into place........ oh, and i'vbe NEVER used an alignment tool... in 30 yrs i've never failed yet to get a clutch together without one!
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Wipers are designed to work on a wet screen, i'm surprised no-one has mentioned this, depending on how wet the screen is will depend how easily the blades can move, and therefore in my experiance how well they operate, and ultimately park.......
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You can't give us a snippet of a story like that without telling us the rest................. what the hell where you doing....LOL...
glad clip worked..!!
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To be honest, putting a bead of weld along a flat piece of steel is relatively easy, try welding two p[ieces of steel together at an odd angle, and then add in a small gap between the two..... we all have to start somewhere, don;t get me wrong, just don;t over estimate your ability too soon.... also, welding thinner steel such as exhaust pipe is interesting, and then even thinner bodywork, and if it's rusty, well, thats a whole new game..LOL
Well done though..... keep practising!
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You need to drill a hole the size of the small end, a tight hole! then insert that, and then tap the pipe holder end into it, the shaft should be slightly wider and therefore create the grip!
which improved it to where it is now (drove like a pig before!)& have striped the dizzy. New fuel pump.
Turnover but no fire until throttle applied
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
My mistake, its in the top of the head!