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M&S

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Posts posted by M&S

  1. Headlight adjustment is an easy enough job to do yourself. I'll try and get a photo later to make it easier to explain. The whole headlight unit moves, not individual lights.

    You need to crawl under the disco and check the top of the transfer box at the front. If you have a spigot sticking up then you have difflock but need the linkage. If not, you don't. Mine doesn't have it and I've not missed it to be honest. Don't get too hung up on it until you've used teh vehicle for a while and got some decen't tyres for it. Driven well you won't miss the difflock.

    Headlight washers work as above.If still not working then it might be the pump. There are three pumps on the washer bottle, one for rear window, one for front and one for headlights. Easy change if that's all it is. I haven't got tehm anymore and don't miss them, I reckon they just wasted water to be honest!

  2. Thanks Jason, look the same as teh griffin ones and from your pics are what I'm after. As you say, works out cheaper and you can remove them to use standard 12v/ I could even put it in my mates car if travelling with him.

    Win-win!

  3. That RS one would have been the one if I hadn't found the Griffin one. The bonus of teh griffin is that I don't need to have a 12v to 5v converter anywhere, I can just wire it straight in to teh 12v with the socket I already have. If I had a defender I'd have gone for the first one in cosecon's link, but for the Disco I think this meets my needs.

  4. cosecon - that is the sort of thing, just smaller would be good, and black plastic would be fine also (although I'd spray that).

    Luke - I'm doing some searches now and this is what I'm after:

    http://rvtek.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=63_1_3_56_59&products_id=73

    I might make something like that in cosecons link, with the 12v converter mounted under the dash, and some usb sockets from maplins or somehwere perhaps.

  5. Hi all,

    I'm looking to add a couple of USB ports to my vehicle. I have the 12v plug in adapters and USB adapter in that, but I was wondering if either of the following are available? I have trawled ebay but no joy!

    1) A USB only block with straight 12v power lead (not coiled) that I can hardwire into my accessory fuse box.

    2) A flange or similar mounted USB block that I can cut a slot in my dash and mount with a 12v convertor somewhere behind/in the lead?

    As I say, I have the "Ring" 12v double adapter etc, but there are quite a few cables running about and I'd like to tidy things up a bit. Thinking about adding USB sockets to the top of the dash, where the radio vents are.

    Any pics/ideas welcomed!

    Thanks, Martin

    PS - It's a disco so not looking at raptor dash or anything like that. Just cheap bits I can mount myself.

  6. The reason DMFs are fitted is that modern, low emission engines tend to produce high impulse torque as each cylinder fires compared to old oil-burners. This has two implications. One is transmission noise and the other is the peak torque the transmission has to handle is higher even if the mean torque is the same. This can result in premature transmission failures and increased wear.

    The DMF just evens out the torque a bit and largely solves the problem. The 'unreliability' is simply that they take a hammering. Without it, the hammering is just passed on to your gearbox!

    Personally I would stick with the DMF.

    Si

    That is what I'm doing. My DMF has finally given up (I suspect) and I'm replacing it with another. Done a lot of reading/research and figure that LR fitted it for a reason and whislt a SMF may do the job and not give much noticeable difference in noise or vibration, the gearbox and rest of teh transmission might not be thinking so. Also wonder how the crankshaft/bearings would take it?

    Mine has done 155,000 miles so that's not so bad. The clutch is showing no signs or problems (no slipping or gearchange problems etc) but the flywheel is making a chattering and I can feel this through the pedal if I rest my foot lightly on it. You can also hear it outside the vehicle when driving. I have spares/AA card at the ready! As well as that I suspect that teh continual stalling when laning last weekend might be down to teh flywheel failing as well? Never considered it at the time but did think it was odd it was stalling a lot. Later in that day the chjattering got very loud and stayed that way in low and high box.

    Unfortunately I can't do it myself otherwise I would, but looks like I'll have to grin and bear the garage labour costs for the first time in 2 years!

  7. We used Makita and Dewalt at work. Makita plastic chucks are rubbish, couldn't get them tight enough not to slip. Dewalt on teh other hand supplied metal chucks and they were easier and actually seemed to tighten more rather than slip.

    If yours is plastic I'd definiately get a metal keyless chuck from Jacobs (that's who makes them for Dewalt).

  8. Hi all, I've picked up a Vaelo (genuine) clutch on ebay cheaply, so just need to buy the DMF.

    Found one for £265 + delivery (again, genuine, Vaelo), but wanted to check if tehy were available cheaper anywhere?

    I don't buy the mags so don't always get to see the offers.

    Failing that, anyone got a new one sat in their garage that's no longer needed :ph34r:

    Cheers, Martin

    PS - done a lot of reading and want to stick with teh DMF. It's lasted 156k miles so I'm happy to put another one in. I suspect the clutch itself could go on for much longer as it isn't showing any signs of wear!

  9. So long as they are 8.8's you can use off teh shelf stuff.

    Going by your hole sizes you'll want 12mm and 10mm bolts. I thought they would be 14mm through the towball though...

    I get mine from the local JCB/Tractor place. Anywhere liek that should sell tehm loose so you can buy just a couple.

  10. Any joy with finding these? Part number perhaps? Mine have been off for over a year, forgot about them until clearing thegarage out today. Probably should get them put back on :blink:

    I found some in Halfords before that had extra forks on but you can cut those off with pliers. They are ok, but if you have found the genuine clips I'd rather have those.

  11. Hi all, I've searched for ages but can't find a thread where I'm sure I asked this ages ago. There was some helpful info so shame I can't find it :unsure:

    Anyway, going to bite the bullet and spray the bonnet of the Disco matt black. Wanted to do this since I got it so after four years I figure I should just do it. Maybe it's the sunny weather today..It'll cost less than a tenner and I have time on my hands right now :blush:

    I was thinking about using plastikote as I think that's quite tough? Right or wrong? Failing that halfords matt black will do (I can get both around the corner from me).

    Also, for prep I think it was recommended to just use a plastic pan scourer over the original laquer/silver paint, tehn spray the matt straight on. Does that sound good? No need to primer?

    I am going to take the bonnet off I think so I don't have to maske the whole vehicle off and can then spray it in the garage, save any overspray.

    If anyone finds my original thread form a year or longer ago I'd be grateful.

    Cheers, Martin

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