EggNChips

No they don't fit, they're different between FL1(04-06) & FL2(07-).

Probably the Concentric Slave Cylinder, they tend to lose effectiveness and the biting point becomes very low. Try changing the Master Cylinder first tho because it's much cheaper and easier. You can bleed the clutch on a TD4, but if the CCS is knackered then the benefit will only last a few days before it goes back the way it was. If it's the CCS, it's a complete new clutch I'm afraid.

The head lining is a pain to get out, takes ages, but not particulartly difficult. It's the best way to ensure that you can properly check the drains and the rubber grommets at the cable entries. The drains have pipes attached and they just pull off, then you should be able to get your fingers in, the holes are reasonably large. Fortunately the headlining isn't glued to the roof, so there's little chance of damage, if you're careful.

Leaking sunroofs are usually caused by the drains being blocked. Just like the drains on your house, if they're blocked the water has to go somewhere. First check the drains at the fron and back of the sunrroof, they are connected to pipes that go down the A pillar and to the rear, right at the back door. It's a pain to get off, but I would recommend removing the headlining until you get to the bottom of the leaks. PS I am assuming this is a 5 door, if it's a 3 door you're talking about then disregard all of the above, lol

What he says ^ Check intercooler hoses first. Also there's a wire on the No1 injector that's prone to chaffing.

Been ages since I removed an IRD box, but I'm sure it's just the 4 bolts and cooling pipes. There may be a snap ring on the IRD input shaft??? Like on the CV joint. A decent sized lever should get it moving.

I stand corrected The MAF sensor had an IAT sensor on it, was this spun out to a seperate sensor post 2003?

Cleaning the MAF sensor may or may not work, generally they last about 60K miles and they're done. Rev the engine and you should see the turbo actuator operating. The last TD4 I had drove perfectly except on long motorway journeys where it would gradually lose power and it ended up being the turbo actuator. I don't think they got a MAP sensor til after 2003????

Common TD4 engine problems that I've had are: 1. EGR Valve, take it off, clean it thoroughly and make sure it operates freely. Think about disabling..... 2. MAF sensor- Unplug it and see if it drives better 3. Turbo Actuator and associated vacuum pipes - examine all the pipes and check for leaks, especially round about the vacuum pump and check the actuator moves freely. 4. Fuel rain pressure sensor- not that common a fail Maybe others could add to the list with their common problems.

Yeah It's fairly common, but usually not serious.

Yes it must have ABS if it failed because the tell tale indicator on the dash is inoperative. Chech the bulb first, but I would suspect that someone has removed the bulb because it was on. The propshaft won't cause the light to go on or off. On early ones, if I remember correctly, the light should come on when first started and go off at about 10mph?

Yeah you can fill them up with fluid and bleed as per normal.

There' loads of threads on here for the 'three amigos'. Sounds like the brake light switch.........

Corrosion on battery or starter terminal?

Not on the TD4. It has a quick release coupling on the LH side of the engine. The slave is a cencentric slave inside the bellhousing. Change the master cylinder first as it's relatively quick, easy and inexpensive ~£75. If not then it'll be a complete new clutch. Get a Borg & Beck one from Island4x4,~ £75 for the clutch and ~£55 for the CCS. Labour is gonne be quite expensive tho

It's the range of movement of the master cylinder that acts as a stop for the clutch pedal, nothing else. If the clutch is still working, it might be that the master cylinder is starting to fail.

No the clutch switch is on a ratcheting mechanism and adjusts to the height of the pedal. It shoudn't be a stop for the pedal. It's possicle that the switch was stuck and stopping the pedal fully returning.

They're a fashion item and they've gone out of fashion. Personally I think they look naff. But back to the OP, facelift bullbars (assuming they're the OEM ones) won't fit an earlier Freelander. The attach to the bumber/grill and that's different on the earlier ones.

I wouldn't buy it to sell on, but would buy it to keep. The Kalihari is quite well spec'd and the TD4 is excellent. Regulator repair kits are around £20 each. If you've got the money and prefer the Facelift tho makes sense to buy what you like.

It'll save you roughly 1-2 mpg, but the front will feel scrabbly. Make sure your tyres are inflated correctly (I go at 32 psi all round), Air filter is clean and change manually for the first couple of miles before the box is warm. On a manual TD4 Auto you should be averaging ~33mpg. MPG on the auto is quite poor. In all the TD4's I've run, I found that it doesn't really matter how you drive them (within reason), they always return roughly the same.

L Series is not a dual mass fywheel. Clutch change on a Freelander is a bit longer than a normal FWD car. Think it's booked around the 6-8hr mark. A normal garage charging £50 an hour =£3-400 in labour + around £100 for a good quality clutch = £4-500 very very roughly. The clutch hydraulics are under £100 ad take 1/2 an hour to fit, so that would be my first port of call. If you do end up needing a new clutch, Island4x4 are cheap for Borg & Beck ones, for a TD4 it was something like £75 which is excellent.

I tried on my press and ended up damaging the rubber. Best just to hammer it on with a socket.

Probably the Concentric slave cylinder is on it's way out. On the TD4 there is a bleed nipple for the clutch, try bleeding it. It may help for a few days, then return to the way it was. Then try the master cylinder as it's quick and easy to change. If that doesn't fix it, then I'm afraid it's a new clutch and concentris slave, which aint cheap on labour

Once the airbag has been deployed, it's not possible to reset it. The Airbag ECU has to be replaced. It's in the RAVE manual somewhere, but can't remember where. You should be able to get a new ECU from a breaker, don't think (altho don't know for sure) that they're coded to the car. Had a quick look and saw this http://www.airbagreset.com/

Definitely needs replaced, It shouldn't have those cracks in it.