lister1

just checked online online and UKE80 is still insured untill 03 05 2010 and was first registered in 13 12 1954 and is a 1997cc petrol.. there you go.... so its still on the road but not sure where.

thanks. any chance of a couple of pics if its in good order? that would save me alot of time messing about with plates making one up.

the rest of the chassis isn't too bad. it had a new rear cross member at some point . and the front is good. just this stupid bit. the mid section cross member sits on top of the chassis rails and is plated on the ends and basicly mud and wather gets flung into to supports from the wheels. if that makes sense. also all i've got to take off is the rear tub. remove the rear axle and take out the rear wire harness. plus my farter in law is an egineer and i was a agricultural engineer so between us we can remove the rear end and cut out any carp and weld in some proper patches. i like trying to fix things rather than replace but to be honest i'm to tight and skint to fork out for a new chassis. i can get steel plate for nothing and seeing as the labour is free doing the repair would feel a bit easier on the pocket.

that would be great. i'm in oxford where are you?

i've tried marsland chassis and richards chassis and designa chassis but none will sell seperetly. anyone else think of other places i could try?

firstly its a 1985 land rover 90 van back i've got to the point where i need to do some chassis work. it's had a new rear cross member. but since taking the beast apart i've found it needs a mid section cross member. it's the cross member that the "A" frame bolts to. the rest of the chassis is ok perhaps a couple of patches need doing but nothing bad. my question is does anyone know if the mid cross member is available anywhere as a repair section or am i going to have to get one made up? ive done a google search but all i can find are the usual whole chassis makers or the common outriggers and such. cheers for reading much apreciated lister.......

Thats fine but look how big those countries are in comparison to the uk. while some people respect others and the countryside others dont and what little space we have left would be ruined. hence why they are closing BOATs. just my 2ps worth

i've just fitted a radio to my 85 defender 90. behind the centre oval panel there should be a brown wire ( permanent live ) connect that to the memory power of the radio, a white wire ( ignition switched power ) connect that to the + wire on the radio and a black wire ( earth ) connect that to the earth of the radio. there should be sleeved push fit connectors so you can just fit bullet crimps on your radio wires. hope that makes sense.

heat shrink the join and the cover with loom tape.

oh and the w terminal is for the rev counter so don't use it. come to think of it i bet your battery just needs a good charge up. if you try and jump a battery by connecting it straight to the other battery most of the current from the other battery will go to your battery. i had this problem once, charged my battery up over night and away we go.... or the battery could be dead. hope i've helped somehow

it's behind the inner wing. if you take the head light unit out you'll be able to get to the earth wire which is bolted to the inner wing undo that, disconnect the lights, tie a bit of string to the loom, pull the loom through from the bulkhead end do your repair and pull it back through using the string you pulled through earlier. same on both sides and you can do this on the chassis harness that runs through the cahssis. the rear harness connector is located near the fuel filter. the front lights wiring is part of the main harness so no connector. hope this helps.

i would say that if theres a fizzing sound that theres a bad connection. but just check the supply from the ignition to the solenoid, there's a red and white wire on the solenoid pull it off and put a multi meter from the wire to the engine if your getting no power or say 0.5volts or so check the relay in the fuse box. if thats ok then look towards a bad connection. get a set of jump leads connect red straight to the solenod post where the battery is normally connected and to the battery + terminal and the the black to the - terminal and to the engine block that way yo know you've got good connections. hope that makes sense. be carefull remember to put the cables to the engine and starter first and make sure the red is only touching the feed side of the solenoid.

i agree, i just brought a landy 90 to restore i knew i had to rewire it but i've lost count on how many meltd wires the bloody thing had due to the devils own scotch lock. infact they should be banned........

hello. i've got a 1985 90 and i've nearly finnished all the wiring. i got all new looms from autosparks. cost £480 in total. quite am easy job to rewire. the only problem i had was a relay packed in when it was stood.. the heater wiring is part of the main loom so if you've got bad wiring at your dash and the fuse buy a new one of them. type autosparks into google and on their web site theirs a list on the left hand side with loads of different vehicles just scroll down to land rover. i phoned them and they are really helpfull. they will also put a blade type fuse holder in for you. james.

another update. got the blasted thing running. it turned out to be the relay in the fuse box....... i started off by double checkeing the volyage at the ignition barrel (which was ok) the by checking the power at the solenoid feed (which read 0.5v) i then checked th voltage at the relay ( good voltage coming from the battery and good power going to the relay but again only 0.5 volts comimg out) so i then put a continuity meter across the terminlas and the put 12volts the relay and found there was poor connection in the relay. i never bothered checking the raly in the first place because it was clicking in and out ok and i assumed it was ok. Then i turned the ignition key one position shorted the main feed over the solenoid feed and hay presto we're firing on all four cylinders......... now all i need to do is find the reverse feed, double check the fog light and find the earthe fault in the lighting circuit and we're road legal again......... oh if anyone knows which wire feed the revers light ik would appreciate teh help. i know its a green wire thats linked to the brake light feed but i just don't know where the wire is. Thaks for the help poeple. once again thanks for the help. i'm sure i'll be back on agin asking for more.........

pm sent

i've downloaded microcat from greenoval people. followed the instructions and chged the date and all that but all i get is a message saying microcat can not run in ms dos or windows programs. i know people must be getting fed up with people asking about micro cat but i need help.... please....

ok so heres the update tried a jump lead from the negative terminal of the battery to the starter no different. so jumped it off the car but it seem like the battery was so low it was really pulling on the car i was jumping it with. so i'm going to give the battery a good overnight charge and see how it goes. just to add insult to injury i powered up the lights and one of the wires feeding the main light switch melted so i'm going to order a new set of wipac lights....... why would any one buy a landy. thr trouble is i need it running as soon as pos because it's my everyday car and i may have a job interview with the environment agency coming up!!!!!!! help!!!!

i think the clicking is a on the fuse tray. i'm going to check to see if i've got a good earth at the engine and check the connection on the sloenoid from the ignition but they are so awkward to get to.

i think i've found the wire now but now the blasted thing don't start...... oh the joys of having a landy.

finaly finnished wiring my landy up last night. the lights powered up, the horn works and the wipers work. turned the key and click click nothing. so i jumped it off my car thinking the battery had gone dead but still nothing. any ideas or help would be good.

nearly finished wiring my defender up but i can't see where one of the reverse light wires goes. i know that the one of the wires from the switch goes to the rear chassis harness which in turn goes to the reverse light. the only wires i've got left are a light green wire and a light blue wire behind the dash inside both have a female bullet connector and there are two wires which have male bullets one light blue and one light green both have white tags on the wire. does that make sense? perhaps i'll take a couple of photos later when i'm home. any help would be appreciated