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rtbarton

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About rtbarton

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    Sheffield

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  1. The thing is, there's so many gears in the drive train small bits of backlash all add up. Another good source of wear is the splines on the half-shafts and the drive flanges they fit into. If you wind the transmission up and then release the 4WD lever you don't necessarily actually drop back into 2WD, this is because the 4WD drive dog binds due to the tension in the transmission. This could account for the quieter outward journey to the shops, the 4WD dog will have released itself along the way. I once drove about 10 miles on tarmac in 4WD, I could hardly steer when I got to my destination. The only way I could free it up was to jack one rear wheel up with the handbrake off. NB - if you do jack a rear wheel up the handbrake becomes ineffective, so chock the other wheels or engage 2WD.
  2. All the same bits rotate in 2WD and 4WD, the only difference is that in 4WD the front & rear axles are connected together, so with standard hubs I see no point in engaging 4WD once a month to splash oil around, it would ensure that the gear linkages &c don't seize up due to lack of use though. If you have freewheeling hubs it wouldn't do any harm to engage them occasionally to splash the oil about a bit. If you run in 4WD on tarmac the transmission will wind up due to the very slight difference in speed between the front & rear propshafts. This winding up will eventually cause transmission damage, but before it does all the backlash in the gears will be taken up, making the transmission quieter.
  3. I had an overdrive, vacuum gauge and 750 x 16 tyres on a SIII SWB petrol hardtop. I managed to achieve 29 mpg on a run between Sheffield and Silloth (Cumbria) by driving to the vac. gauge. The journey took about an hour longer than normal though 😰
  4. When I raised the question of modifications to my Volvo with Saga they were only interested in modifications which would increase performance, affect safety or make it more desirable to steal. For example they weren't interested in a modification I did to the wiring
  5. Get the buyer to come to your premises with cash, that can't be subject to a charge-back. No meeting in a lay-by where you could get mugged.
  6. I'd keep heat well away from a rubber bush. Knurling or staking the outer sleeve to the chassis tube may help.
  7. Bear in mind if you have a +/- coil and connect it as you say you get the wrong polarity at the spark, but if you connect it according to polarity the circuit is wrong. Don't stick an ammeter between the terminals, with the ignition on it will be connected across the battery. You need an ohmmeter and test the coil out of circuit.
  8. CB is the earthy end of the coil (+ve on a +ve earthed vehicle) the SW is a -ve feed from the ignition switch. If the ammeter doesn't dip then it's most likely the points are open or corroded. Connect a sidelight bulb from the SW terminal to chassis, if it lights up when you turn the ignition on you're getting a supply to the coil.
  9. CB to contact breaker, SW to ignition feed from ignition switch.
  10. Adjust the shoes hard up against the drums so they can't move. If the pedal still sinks then fluid is seeping past the seals in the master cylinder.
  11. The non-servo brake light switch opens when the plunger is pushed, so bear this in mind if you fit this type of switch to the gearbox. There is provision for fitting a reverse light switch on the later SIII boxes, I can't find any info on this, but it may require that the switch closes when the plunger is pressed. Wire the reverse lights to the ignition circuit, if you wire it straight to the battery the reverse light will illuminate if you park in reverse.
  12. Selector fork loose on its shaft, worn/broken fork, detent problem, broken gear tooth. Can you make the noise go away by pulling/pushing the gear lever beyond where it normally detents? If setting it up properly gives the noise, it sounds like it has been maladjusted in the past to hide the problem.
  13. It's a legal requirement. IIRC that switch is for panel lights, in which case it will only be live with the sidelights on.
  14. It might be better connected to the "Aux" terminal on the ignition switch, that way you can power a USB device without powering the ignition circuit, for example while having a coffee break in a lay-by.
  15. I assumed you are using 12 volt input USB sockets? The voltage on the USB interface is 5 volts.
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