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About rtbarton

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  1. Get the buyer to come to your premises with cash, that can't be subject to a charge-back. No meeting in a lay-by where you could get mugged.
  2. I'd keep heat well away from a rubber bush. Knurling or staking the outer sleeve to the chassis tube may help.
  3. Bear in mind if you have a +/- coil and connect it as you say you get the wrong polarity at the spark, but if you connect it according to polarity the circuit is wrong. Don't stick an ammeter between the terminals, with the ignition on it will be connected across the battery. You need an ohmmeter and test the coil out of circuit.
  4. CB is the earthy end of the coil (+ve on a +ve earthed vehicle) the SW is a -ve feed from the ignition switch. If the ammeter doesn't dip then it's most likely the points are open or corroded. Connect a sidelight bulb from the SW terminal to chassis, if it lights up when you turn the ignition on you're getting a supply to the coil.
  5. CB to contact breaker, SW to ignition feed from ignition switch.
  6. Adjust the shoes hard up against the drums so they can't move. If the pedal still sinks then fluid is seeping past the seals in the master cylinder.
  7. The non-servo brake light switch opens when the plunger is pushed, so bear this in mind if you fit this type of switch to the gearbox. There is provision for fitting a reverse light switch on the later SIII boxes, I can't find any info on this, but it may require that the switch closes when the plunger is pressed. Wire the reverse lights to the ignition circuit, if you wire it straight to the battery the reverse light will illuminate if you park in reverse.
  8. Selector fork loose on its shaft, worn/broken fork, detent problem, broken gear tooth. Can you make the noise go away by pulling/pushing the gear lever beyond where it normally detents? If setting it up properly gives the noise, it sounds like it has been maladjusted in the past to hide the problem.
  9. It's a legal requirement. IIRC that switch is for panel lights, in which case it will only be live with the sidelights on.
  10. It might be better connected to the "Aux" terminal on the ignition switch, that way you can power a USB device without powering the ignition circuit, for example while having a coffee break in a lay-by.
  11. I assumed you are using 12 volt input USB sockets? The voltage on the USB interface is 5 volts.
  12. You won't need a relay, but I'd put a fuse in for them, say 2A each, as the original fuse will not offer sufficient protection.
  13. I used to supply 1/4 BSF x 5/8" set screws for this application. I can't see why you want the original length (which IIRC is 5/8") for such a trivial application, if you have the housing or an existing screw you could measure it. I would recommend a high-tensile component as it's less likely to break when screwing it in or out.
  14. 8.8, 12.9 &c refers to metric fasteners. BSF/Whitworth will be marked R, S & T for high tensile grades.
  15. Did you specify the vehicle rather than CCA/Ah ? I'd still have a go through Trading Standards, even if you don't expect a favourable result the supplier may already be on TS's radar, and it's all grist to the mill.
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