Badger90
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Posts posted by Badger90
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right i have figgerd it now.. it a earth problem.. if i turn the lights on the green light on the dash saying the light are on doesnty come on.. still the tail light is out and side light.. sorted the head light lol the bulb had blown.. but the winker glows.. however when i push the brake peddle the green light, tail light, side lght then works.. so its a earth?
allso when i slam the bonnet the glowing winker and side then goes off and the head light come on..
then lift the bonnet up the winker glow and side light then come back on.. and had light back off again 
has anyone have any bloody idea where it might be.. i have chacked all the earth points in the engine bay area!!
cheers sam
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looks like my old series 3 when i finished with it!! ..I'm surprised pikeys haven't pinched it for scrap!!
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HI all nackerd my front axle on sundays play day will a 300 tdi disco axle fit my 110 without to much fuss
front end up on ramps and stands but a bit cold to start
yeah it wil fit.. i have fitted 300tdi discovery axle on my kreg 90.. i took the round weight thing off and took the steering damper off.. they are at the back off the axle on discoverys and defenders are at the front..
cheers sam
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i must say.. my general grabber a/t'2 are fantastic.. in the snow and ice.. i was very pleased with them to my prevoise bfg track edge.. how ever when i drove my mother 90 with bfg muds.. was carp.. all over the shot..over 20-30mph no faster or youll be in a ditch. and my intentoin was pull people out ditches not put myself in one lol.. over all the grabbers where great..
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7inches in cambridge.. getting higher still coming down hard.. plenty of people been ditching ther cars
my 90's rearing to go -
Probably an earth problem. Try running an extra earth wire from the lights to the chassis.
Had this as well on a 110, took me ages to find the fault, ran that wire and sold the vehicle an hour later. Never got round to test it, but for the buyer i hope it worked...
thats what i was thinking.. i was behind a car a minute ago saw the reflection at the back and the light that is working was working when i haddent even turn the lights on then went off.. i thought then it might be a earth!!
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yeah i have but i will look in the day light in hte morning.. im hoping it only that haha or if it a replacment job i wont be able to stay for meal and beer or 2 lol
checked all the fuses.. all of them are intact. just got back from college tryed them again.. offside headlights started working agina and side light.. this is bloody annoying... i cannot trace it
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Have you checked the fuses?
yeah i have but i will look in the day light in hte morning.. im hoping it only that haha or if it a replacment job i wont be able to stay for meal and beer or 2 lol
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hi all.
wednesday night 5 of us went off night (green) laning... come 12pm ish.. my rear offside tail light and offside head lights went.. bearing in mind a had been in water over the bonnet.. next day had a look. both head light lenses all cracked (was expecting that to be honest) and one bulb blew.. fair enough.. but the rear tail light had a blown bulb.. so i changed it.. still didnt work.. tryed the wires nothing.. what you recon? and allso when i went to feed the pigs have to go though a little bit of a flooded lane. got back both head lights just give up.. the old chap recons it might be the dim dip switch??? they work on full beam!
if that is correct is how can i bypass it? i need my truck for shooting tomorrow its the last day of thew season and im not missing it haha.. but driving back in the dark will bee a little problem?
cheers sam
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While i can't fault the idea in the OPs thinking, adding a torque converter to a L/R manual transmission is a complete non starter. A torque converter is not a self contained unit, it works as part of the auto box and requires a pumped, regulated pressure oil feed and stator support that's contained within the front of the box. Even if you could engineer that onto a manual box it would require so much work.
Adapting an existing plant/agricultural transmission would be difficult because for starters they're huge and heavy, also they're designed/geared to work with engines that have half the rpm range of a L/R engine and are installed in vehicles that have top speed of about 20mph.
Hydrostatic transmissions would work well on an off roader. But a pure hydrostat is inefficient and again has limits as to top speed. A hydrostat addition to a manual is possible, in fact it's an option on some Unimogs, but you'd need a vehicle of that size to mount it all.
There is nothing wrong with innovative thinking in engineering, but before you start looking for a solution you have to have a problem that requires "solving".
Pointless over complicated "solutions" to non existent "problems" are the realm of computer software writers
My 2p worth anyway.
haha yeah i do get your point. i always thought that the converter has it own supply of oil and not fed by the gearbox.. show how much i know.
yeah i dpoke to a mate that works for a agricultural dealers/fitters and when they had no work they tryed this idea.. he said it worked well but the converter drew so much power out the engine. they still have the truck and they ended up puting a 1:6 ratio transfer box on to compensate for the loss (well some of it) and i wouldnt even atempt on adapting any plant/agricultural machine. 1, adapting a £120.000 300HP tractor is just a waste 2, the shear wait and size.
i might be worth the swaeat and blood if you where building a challenge truck, which i have plans to!
i fancy a challenge lol
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hi all.
right last week i thought is it possible to fit a torque converter to a manual gearbox? just googled it. some automotive engineering student has allso the same brain wave.. but i thought more and you will need to have somthing that will disconnect the drive of the torque converter so your inable to change gear. i remember on a one a farm i worked one 2-3 years back had a jcb loader that had a "dump clutch system" (if that is what it is called) but it had a toque conveter, manual gear stick but a button on the stick that you need to press when changing gears? i am wondering if that system can be put in a land rover or other 4x4?
anyone on here a automatic/manual know it all? im very intersted in finding out about this?
cheers sam
jesus never new there was that meany gearbox systems about.. yeah the standard jcb gear box (one i used this harvest) got the turn switch (nearly all have that now) for gears and foward and back on the leaver.. a mate has just informed me that one raining bored day at thurlow nunns they did it (converter in manual) and he said it worked a treat but took a awfull lot of power out and also if you have got a to big of a converter it might pull your box apart?
it sounds a great idea.. wouldnt mind trying ot on a old rustyed up discovery and it works well maybe do it my truck..
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The system Sam mentioned on the JCB works as an electrically opperated clutch, you push the button on the gear knob then change gear on the stick and release the button, the clutch or "dump" pedal has a micro switch to do the same instead of a cable or hydraulic system.
its feels like it has torque converter in it? how straing..
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hi all.
right last week i thought is it possible to fit a torque converter to a manual gearbox? just googled it. some automotive engineering student has allso the same brain wave.. but i thought more and you will need to have somthing that will disconnect the drive of the torque converter so your inable to change gear. i remember on a one a farm i worked one 2-3 years back had a jcb loader that had a "dump clutch system" (if that is what it is called) but it had a toque conveter, manual gear stick but a button on the stick that you need to press when changing gears? i am wondering if that system can be put in a land rover or other 4x4?
anyone on here a automatic/manual know it all? im very intersted in finding out about this?
cheers sam
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My new 110 has a Capstan Winch. What are the pros and cons of these and are they worth anything?
Any info appreciated...
i believe that capstans are used more and better used for logging and light recovery. only thing is with the rope you have on it need to be wraped 2-3 times round and it doent wrap it around like a drum winch. you need to pull on the rope that isnt being used to keep it tight.. not to sure of the value..
hope what i know helps
cheers sam
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I have an M reg Defender 90 with a 300TDI that has over the past 6 months or so developed what appears to be a very noisy gearbox. At first I thought it was just the clutch bearing being over zealously noisy, but when I changed the clutch/ plate and release bearing it was still there ( the pressure plate was knackered). Also when driving and working my way up through the the gears, the noise is present but as very intrusive vibrations. Could this be mainshaft/ layshaft wear? The actual gearchanges are superb for an R380 which makes me wonder whether it could be something else- any ideas?
have you looked at the props/U.J's. they could be lacking in lubrication.
or as western said transfer box. one off my out put bearing went on my transfer box also took the speedo drive gear with it.. made a hell of a rackit.
cheers sam
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Yeah I's been thinking something might have been going on there as the oil light came on. But then went off so I thought it would be okay to drive gently to get some help.
yeah i have heard a couple of other poeple it happend to. mainly 300Tdi. yours is a 200 isnt it? they can take more stick then 300s.
well at least you drove it steady.. mum was driving 85mph down the m11 at the time the light come on a carryed on driving the same speed for another 17miles.. got home and wonderd why it wasnt running right lol.. driving that speed wouldnt of helped!
does it make a random knocking noise? like you said metal on metal noise?
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I've got a local LR engineer here who will do it. Les, if you were doing it how long would you quote for it? Thanks for all your help so far.
oil relief valve! mothers 300 did the exact and made the exact noises. me and the old chap pulled the head off looked the pistons. no damage. pulled the sump off and oil releif valve and it was stuck.. the crank was worn beyond regrinding and the shells got hot so that means a loacking of oil circualtion.
we changed the shells but after 30 mile the noises come back.
its only a suggestion it mau not be that but its a though lol
cheers then all the best!
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I've got a Defender 200Tdi/R380 combination, my engine is in the standard location with a short [11cm mating face to mating face bell housing, IIRC it's mt old LT77 part] & a short mainshaft R380, same as this one They are difficult to get hold off now, best speak to Ashcrofts or stick with the LT77S.
ok thanks iv got it in consideration if or when my gear dicides to carp itself. but if i was to go to effort to move the engine 6" foward then i concider zp auto box.
i will keep a eye out for one..
cheers then.
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hi all.
is it possible to mate a R380 onto defender 200Tdi. dispite the R380 6" longer.
can you use the 200tdi bell housing? but then wont the main shaft be longer?
cheers sam
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is anyone on here any part of the LRO mag?
Does the name Matthew Lock ring a bell? is so pelase tell me all the details? a mate and i are wanting to find out what his up to? haha (i am good mates with him but still wont tell us)
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cheers badger, sorry should have said I've checked the waste gate, all free and moving nicely, when I got the 90 first thing I did was fiddle with the fueling and wastegate. With hindsight I should have maybe fixed some of the other stuff first
ahh right, i missed a bit out about the play on the impeller. i dont know bugger all about turbos to be honest.. but looked on garrets web site http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...way_enlarge.jpg
that might give you more if a idea.
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Hi all,
I'm slowly fixing all the problems on my 90, but as with land rovers, the more I fix the more appear
My turbo is a little strange, when the car is cold I get good power and the boost gauge is reading .6 bar, but after a few mins of driving the highest I can get it is .1bar and it not the gauge miss reading, it's definitely down on power.
I've replaced all the hoses, inter cooler and fixed all the manifold leaks, that did improve things a little, but I did find a lot of oil through out the system. the turbine spins ok and is quite tight vertically/horizontal, but moves back and forth maybe 4-5mm.
I'm guessing the seal has gone and when the turbo heats up the oil thins and leaks out thus not lubing correctly hence the low pressure and large amount of oil in the breathing system.
Is my logic correct? or have I missed something?
Many thanks
Ruu
if you take the waste gate rod off the waste gate arm should fall back with out touching it (well mine does) if it doesnt ususaly the waste gate is all bunged up with soot. did it on my brother 2.5td n/a engine and did it on my 200tdi
to free it off i just got a spanner (fairly long) and pushed it back forth untill it was loose. shove your rod back on (or you can do it with the rod on) and give it whearl!
give it a try got nothing to loose.
cheers sam
give it a try nothing to loose!
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the 300 injection pump will fit but some have the EDC electrics in a box over the fuel shtoff solenoid, this edc stuff can be removed IIRC.
ok. is there any differnce in how much fuel they shove into the injectors?
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if you mean the fuel lift pump Yes they are different. doubt changing a lift pump would give any power increase, but the injection pump might.
no sorry i ment the injector pump
then lift the bonnet up the winker glow and side light then come back on.. and had light back off again 
my 90's rearing to go
little lightings problem..
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
western, i have had a look for the wires at the front.. unless im plain stupid or its just i cannot find the.. doe's anyone have a pictures of where they might be.. i allso had a thought that it might be a eart on the brake pedal switch? because when i push the brake the green light, tail light and side light works?