simon

I have lifted mine 3 inches and lost the strut as it had given up anyway, hasn't made any difference and in fact i think it makes it better axle articulation without. Couple that with rear cranked arms and extended brake line you'll get a load of travel on each corner. Recommend loose the strut and save a whole lot of headache. simon

I guess that as usual Landrover raided the parts bin every so often and those that have 2 doors and sloopy type floor pan where probably left overs from 4 door versions. dunno but it works whatever.

also check the UJ's as they will make a whining noise and wheel bearings. Suggest you jack up each wheel and give it a wobble and also use a scew driver to try to move the UJ's. if all okay then it could be bearing in the gearbox or diff knackered. Sorry to say its a matter of illimination. good luck

jon, I got a spare classic bottle jack if you wish, cross my palm with a little beer money and i will be happy. never used the scissor type for anything other than they can act a a ideal weight for keeping the garage door open as they are slim enough that you don't keep kicking it. worst ever invention and dammed dangerous with a RR or any other landy, they should be banned. Simon

guys, guys, Rangerovers only ever came in either 2 or 4 door as technically I suppose they don't have a single door as the tailgate as its split so thats the end of the door worries. To add to the floor worries I have 2 x 2 door rangie's a 78 and a 83, the 78 is a flat front to the rear seats and the 83 is a sloped one. I can see no reason as to why underneath so the question is still when did they change and for why. well the when is a matter for the anoraks out there bu the why MAY be that it is stronger to have a angle like that when forming the floor and uses less metal and is pressed easier so that may be why but we need to ask all those 2 door rangie to look as to what they have and let us know the year we may be able to find one with a slopy and one with a flat in the same year and we then have our timeframe. But to tell the truth i aint interested, it works and that's that. Simon

sheltie. Just done thia very conversion to my own V8 RR that also had a long stick LT77. best option was to use the Disco box as bell housing allows for the correct location of most things. I found it best to bolt it all together and drop it in all in one go. I used the RR gearbox mounts and fixed the gearbox in place, this places the fearlever in a very nice position. Then just lower the engine and weld the disco engine mounts in place. The TDi will sit about 10 mm below the bulhead and about 15mm above the steering box. Suggest you use the 4 bolt steering box as the threads are then the same off the PS pump and use the rear prop off the disco as the RR will be too short. Makes for a fantastic change to my truck and having just done a 4 day event with it I can vouch for the useful low torque, it was amazing on tickover and no more fettling the throttle and clutch. The inside should have a large cast ali plate on top of your tunnel and this just needs a trim at the back to make it fit, I then made a new centre consol and used the gaters off the disco. Fits lovely. If you wish to come and take a look then please do as I only finished it 10 days ago the brain cells have not yet had the chance to go elswhere so its all very fresh. I'm in north Somerset near weston super mare. Simon

Guys, has anyone fitted an Xeng Disc brake conversion to the LT95,apparently I was supposed to by a LT230 speedo casing and shaft but when I took mine off the rear of the LT95 it has 8 bolts and the LT230 one I have is only 6, the casing is a dirrent diamenter so I can't eb=ven re drill the casing holes and the shaft in my LT95 is a short 6spline shaft and the LT230 is a long 20+ spline shaft. I have also been told that one off a early 110 with a 4speed box will fit so if anyone has one or can shed light on my quest then please help me as I have so far spent £200+ and still without a handbrake. Please let me know. thanks simon