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tarmacshredder

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Everything posted by tarmacshredder

  1. I have had a session on it this afternoon/evening, and yes it was very cold, megatune was showing -2! Reconnected loom, and opened up Nige's msq that I got the other day, thought thats odd temp guages showing -40, double checked everything, could burn to ecu but no live data coming back to the megatune. Put my old msq on and the same so, disconnected and closed megatune as it was already open prior to me connecting to the Landy on todays session. Launched megatune again and everything back to normal again. changed settings in my msq to those that BBC had posted for me. Turned key and landy coughed spluttered and stopped. Tried again and with alittle gas it would run, Sounded as though I was missing a cylinder maybe 2 but it was running, popping from exhaust but it was running. eased throttle and it stopped. turn key engine starts then stops unless you give it a bit of throttle, throttle is very unresponsive. After a couple of starts and stops I was able to balance better on the throttle but sounded as though I had even less cylinders running. I can reproduce this on each start so we have made progress it now starts and runs sort of, doesn't sound as nice as it did in the summer and throttle is very unresponsive. I then tried Nige's msq that he sent me with the edis settings switched off and it sounded and behaved the same. The forum wont allow me to attached an excel file so I can not attach the data log of what it is doing :-( Looking at John's settings there are quite a few differences. Any suggestions on what I should try and do next? Glenn
  2. I have now checked the settings on the msq file that I have been using and there are a few differences between BBC's info and my msq file. In "More Crank Stuff" cranking RPM (rpm) I have a value of 100, TPS value for flood clear (raw) I have 150. In "Crank/Prime Table" Standard priming PW:(MS) I have a value of 3.0 In "After Start Enrichment (ASE) Settings (... I have ASE TOTAL Time of 18. Nige has very kindly had a look at my msq file and the warm up enrichment boxes look too low for the bottom 4 cells so he has kindly pinged me another msq file for me to use as a base, which I have noted has the same settings as the tables that BBC posted earlier. I dont know why I have so many settings that are either wrong or corrupted as my original msq is one that Nige emailed me when I started. I am hoping the variation in the crank setting above is making people think that it is a VR sensor problem as I think I have a good clean signal on the megatune. Weather permitting I hope to put the loom back on and reflash the ecu later, will let you know how I get on. I will try to do a datalog if it doesn't want to play. Glenn
  3. Many thanks BBC I will check the settings in the msq and see what I have got, not sure if I will manage that today. The trigger wheel is set correctly, when I had the coil packs connected I was getting a spark on each of the leads where I had marked the A,B,C,D on the crank pulley. The distributor from memory is set at 6deg before top dead. I have a spark on the distributor and I have good fuel pressure as I checked both the other weekend. What I cannot understand is why it was running earlier in the year (summer time) though rough and now it isn't and I am running the same msq as then? Thanks for your help Glenn
  4. Yes the VR sensor is feeding the ECU directly and I have a strong tacho signal and I am showing a good crank speed on the megatune, when the engine was running it was stable. As I couldn't get it to run properly on the direct coil drivers and everyones advice was I was wasting my time trying to get it to run properly with the direct drivers I disconnected and returned to the distributor trying to run fuel only. It has had periods that would start and run, never very smooth, especially when cold but wont start at all now. The megasquirt is doing the pump prime sequence when you switch on the ignition, it cranks for some 20 seconds whilst the pump is running but does not start before the megasquirt switches off the pump, I was wondering if this is normal if it hasn't received a plausable crank run speed, whether it does just switch it off. In this 20 second cranking it only occasionally tries to fire, normally it doesn't try at all. I have tried a continuous feed to the fuel pump when the ignition is on but it didn't make any difference. Has anyone got a 4.6 fuel only msq I can try? Any help and advice gratefully received. Glenn
  5. Is that something that can be adjusted/setting change or likely to be a fault within the ecu? I have laid out the wiring loom on the living room floor and traced every single wire back from the db37 plug to each connector with the multimeter but also visually from the db37 plug all the way to the connector or where it runs into the covered injector section of the 3.9 loom. I have stripped everything else out that isn't used. My DB37 plug was made with 2 earth bars soldered accross pins (this is how it was supplied)pins 16,17,18,19 soldered together and pins 9,10,11,12,13,14,15 are also soldered together. At the moment my earths from sensors are attached to the 16,17,18,19 and this is also earthed to an earthing block on the bulkhead as is the earth lead from 9-15 and pin 85 of the main relay. I am not experiencing lots of resets which people normally associate with poor earths. Glenn
  6. Thanks John, the ecu came from diyefi.co.uk, it is a v3.57 so I am guessing the board was assembled by diyautotune.com in the states. Stuart Johnson at diyefi.co.uk then did the tweaks with tacho output, fan switching, dual table switching, f idle as well as the 4 direct drives mounted in the lid. It came with the latest codebase on it and a 4.6 direct drive base map. I then changed it to the 029v code base, easythermed my sensors and used a base map from nige with the edis switched off and the direct coil drive settings switched on. It started and ran rough, everyone blamed the coil drivers for the problems I was occuring so to elimiate this I put the distributor back on and switched off the coil drivers and set the settings for stand alone distributor using the vr sensor for engine fuel only. The vehicle runs on the distributor as it was running on it before and it ran last Sunday with the Lucas and for a 20 seconds or so on the megasquirt so it is something to do with the megasquirt, settings or loom. I have sent Nige a copy of my msq for him to have a look at and see if there is anything blindingly obvious that I am doing wrong. next I am going to take the wiring harness off and strip it all back and check every single connection and wire (again). Next I think for ease I am going to have to convert the ecu to edis so I can at least get it tested on another vehicle (as nearly everyone else is runing edis) to see if the ecu is stuffed. I haven't managed to track down the right page yet with a fuel only map but I still have 20 pages to go. What differences are there between an edis fuel map and a distributor fuel map? The other option is has anyone got a rover v8 runing direct coil drive that I can reflash my ecu with their file and plug my ecu into their vehicle to test? Pritty please with a cherry on top! Glenn :-(
  7. Hi Niel, No unfortunately the ecu hasn't run any other engine, is was bench tested for 24hrs before being dispatched to me but I am also sceptical if there isnt something wrong internally. Next step i think is going to be to try it on another engine, the only trouble is it hasn't got edis as I am only running fuel only at the moment. Has anyone got a good fuel only msq for a 4.6 that they could email me? Glenn
  8. Hi Nige, S19 file was one that I created in easytherm over a year ago and went straight into the ecu without any error messages when I down loaded it again at the weekend. The MSQ file is based on one that you sent me and again goes straight into ecu without any error messages. The warmup wizzard page I will have to put on here later as it is on the laptop and I am on the pc at min. Glenn
  9. Todays update, Redid the s19 file into the ecu and now have the air and water sensors back to acurate readings (before the manifold temp sensor was too cold, I think somehow it had gone back to megasquirt default settings but not sure how). Tried to start the landy and no sign of wanting to start not even a cough or splutter. Tried another msq file sent by another forum member and no signs of life. Unplugged the megasquirt and put on a 3.9 v8 wiring harness,hotwire airflow, idle stepper motor and Lucas cux14 ecu from the same. Connected the earths and the 3 power feeds and temporary feed for the fuel pump, turned key and started land rover. It ran, cleared all the muck out of the exhaust and idled,let it run for 5 mins or so to clean up the spark plugs. Didn't run too badly, certainly better than the megasquirt ever has so far. Reconneced megasquirt,turned key land rover started and ran, was popping in the exhaust and running a bit rougher than on Lucas but it ran, after approx a minute it stopped. Would not restart and hasn't started since. After being left for 1/2 hour on trying to restart it coughed once, but isn't even attempting to fire and run even if you flood clear or disconnect the fuel pump fuse. When trying to start it cranks, after aprox 30 seconds fuel pump is switched off by megasquirt and it doesn't switch it back on. The msq file that I am running doesn't show anything in the warmup wizzard page9 for crank pulsewidth or afterstart enrichment which seams odd,figures are there for the left side of the page. So 6 hours later, I have worked out the injection system ontop of the engine works,but something is either wrong with the megasquirt ecu or settings. Surely it cannot be wiring as it has run today and has in the past? Where can I get the ecu tested? What should I try next. Glenn
  10. I had the plugs out a couple of times last weekend whilst working on it. The plugs aren't foulded up but are wet which would indicate over fueling on one hand but as it wont start it is cranking over and over pumping in more and more fuel so it doesn't apear it is because there isn't enough fuel. The MSQ files that I had tried were previous steps before more settings were altered and fuel table tweaks. It ran on these before but wont now. Did alot of pining out of connections and wiring checking and redoing earths and connections in a vane attempt that it was a connection issue but didn't manage to achieve anything. Still wont start. I am wondering if it is a fault with the megasquirt or a fault with the injectors. I have tried restricting the flow on the return if it were the fuel pressure rail regulator but made no difference. Or I have a setting comletely wrong in the ecu. Glenn
  11. Still having no joy with my Land Rover, have now spent 2 more days on it and it still refuses to start. It was running a couple of weeks ago, although not very well but after switching off at that time, it has refused to start even with various different previous msq files down loaded back into the ecu. Does anyone have a sim that I can borrow locally so I can test the megasquirt ecu? if not can anyone test the ecu for me? I am going to bolt on a lucas hotwire system on Sunday to try to eliminate the fuel injection system on the engine as it is driving me mad as I appear to be going backwards instead of forwards with it. Glenn
  12. The lambda sensors are from a 3.5l discovery and plug straight into the 3.9 loom behind the cylinder heads, the vehicle they came off was pre cat. I have looked at the required fuel table and have done a screen print. This is my fuel table many thanks Glenn
  13. Thanks for the reply Aragorn, As the engine warms and gets to 70deg F the lambda sensor voltage comes up from 0 volts to the middle of the guage then as the temp rises further the volts come down to 0. I have increased the cells in the fuel table by as much as 5 that the engine is bouncing around but haven't managed to get the lambda reading back up off the 0volts. I am in fear of damaging something if it is running that lean, I have 2 lambda sensors and have swopped to the other but no better. The AFR Guage is hard round to the right at 28. My fuel table starts in the left bottom corner going up with 35,35,34,36,40,42 next colum (1000rpm)going up 35,35,35,38,44,47 next column (1500rpm) 35,35,36,45,48 does this look right for a 4.6v8? when cranking it is in the cells 85,90,95kPa and in the 600rpm column the values for these cells respectively are 62,65,68. I would love to change to deg C but I cannot workout how to do that so anyone that can tell me that would be appreciated. Glenn
  14. Hi All, I have spent yet another morning on my Landy trying to get it to run properly, it is now 12 months since I started megasquirting it and to be fair I wish I had never started, I have spent days and days trying and although it now doesn't smoke terribly it will run sometimes and then a few mins later not at all, I have yet to get to the stage of being able to drive and tune it. I like many started off with direct coil drive, and this is all disconnected now with the old distributor connected just trying to run fuel (this was done to just try and get it going again so I could move it and use it), I still do not seam to be making any progress. From cold it will normally start by giving it some throttle, it will not idle until it starts to get warmer. As it warms i do get a lambda volt reading, as it gets to around 80deg f the lambda reading starts to go down until I loose it. I have upped the fuel table cells to try to get a lambda reading back but no success. When warm it is a bugger to restart. On switch off even though I have fitted the resistor on the alternator wire I still get ticking which is in time with the D14 led in the ecu flashing. I am running bosch Sensors which dont look that far out on the laptop, water temp looks good, air temp is a bit low, I have tried to redo the air temp sensor readings with megatherm but I cannot get the new s19file to load into the megasquirt ecu. Is there anyone local to me, stratford upon avon that can come and have a look and see what I am doing wrong? I will pay someone to help if they have the knowledge to fix it. Many thanks Glenn
  15. yep was vaccum based rather than tp and the settings were wildly different, the fuel table was adjusted a while ago whilst I was chatting on the phone to nige so those cells could well need to go up a bit but not sure now, how many I knocked them down by, it was months ago! I think I need to recalibrate the air temp sensor so that it has a more realistic value as well and need to check the diode on the alternator. It's not the relays that are clicking it sounds more like an injector as it is on the inlet manifold area and there is also a tock noise every 10 seconds or so like the pwm valve opening or closing after switch off. It didn't always do it but now it is doing it everytime on switch off. How do you I change to centegrade instead of fahrenheit? Glenn
  16. I have now changed the settings and it starts much better and is easyer to get to idle than before and to be fair sounds alot smoother now no clouds of blue smoke! lambda volts came up and then showed on the guage in the centre section on the right hand side. after a minute or 2 however it disappeared and went to 0 engine has a rythmical hunt of 250-300 rpm. Unfortunately I have run out of time with it this morning so will have to wait till later for another go. Glenn
  17. Thanks John, have just been comparing the menus and there are lots of differences to mine so just off to landy to change them. Have now changed the guage to show ego volts so will read that in a min. Sensors are wiring back to ecu and to seperate earth from memory but will check again in a min. Thanks Glenn
  18. been out to landy this morning plugged in laptop and switched on ign to my horror clt and air temp both showing -40 then notice fuel pump also running continuously, closed and reopened megatune, pulled fuse for ecu ign feed and put back in then back to normal. clt 60deg f, eng map 99kpa, man air temp 22 deg f (lower than yesterday was 70 so need to investigate that), air fuel ratio 28, spark advance 1.38btdc. My handheld thermometer tells me it is just over 64deg f air temp so I have a large discrepancy, dont understand why yesterday it was matching my hand held one? Couldn't find lambda or ego volts where do I need to look for this? would love to change to cent but dont know how! after a struggle got to run at 1200rough idle showing 41kpa at approx 72clt. Switched off and ticking back on ign off, pull ign fuse for ecu and it stops. Glenn
  19. Hi Fridge, thanks for the response, the guages do look ok when you start and they seam to go in the right direction when started,I will check the lambda values this morning. The air:fuel ratio guage is at 28 which is right round to the right which looks wrong. In the data log the accel and deaccelerate icons are swithcing from red to green all the time the tp on the graph is very spikey but it is also running very rough so could well be caused by the rough running rather than the tp sensor miss reading. the clt rises but also scopes slightly as it goes up and the values look about right at the moment I have f not centegrade so not within my comfort zone but we started from cold at about 75deg f yesterday and were upto 215 yesterday when I switched off. I am guessing a setting or value is wrong, but I am starting to pull my hair out with it. Glenn
  20. Evening Gents, I am still fighting my land rover and megasquirt and to be honest not succeding! lol Allthough I have posted a few times before I will refresh with the details. 110 with 4.6 V8 running 3.9 V8 inlet/injectors and modded 3.9 V8 loom, bosch pwm valve, ms1 v3, transit trigger wheel 36-1 setup as edis timing. Originally I was going direct coil drive but have been struggling to get it to run remotely properly,so I then plugged the distributor back in and have been trying to get it to run just squirt. Yes it does start and does run but coughs, splutters and is running really rich. There is also missing and occasional popping in the exhaust. I have set the distributor to 6 degrees before tdc as a start point. I have 2 data logs but am not allowed to post them so anyone interested then please message with an email address and i will send. Thanks Glenn
  21. After a couple of phone calls with nige the landy is now backup and running with the distributor, so injection side is ok, having reconnected the coil packs it's not so happy so must be a setting or wiring issue. If any one has the settings etc for direct coil drive that would be great as otherwise it will be converted to edis. Glenn
  22. After a couple of phone calls today Nige has worked wonders and has got my land rover running on the old distributor but it isn't happy on the coil packs, so after checking wiring does anyone have settings etc for Direct coil drive? All help gratefully received! Glenn
  23. Hi Nige, ECU is MS1 V3.57 running 029V msq files are ones that you provided for 4.6 V8 Auto with max torque cam 3.9V8 injectors and plenium modified 3.9V8 engine loom guages show pritty much what i would expect, water temp, air temp, as I have said before fuel enrichment looks high at 28. Glenn
  24. Hi Nige, Edis is something that i am certainly considering but I am not running direct coil packs or edis at the moment I have resorted back to just a plain old fashioned distributor so it should still run and the megasquirt should be just worrying about the fuel. So everyone elses experience at this point should be relevant. I did ask Fridge a couple of weeks ago about edis modules and how easy to convert my ecu to edis but he didn't come back to me with a price. At the moment it appears I have way too much fuel as the plugs are black and there is clouds of black smoke out of the exhaust or I have a problem with the injectors/pressure regulator or settings. Glenn
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