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matthew74

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Everything posted by matthew74

  1. A skoda octavia with presumably no sun visors!
  2. I'm going down there tomorrow to take the accessories off it and swap the alloys for the steelies.
  3. My girlfriend was shaken up and luckily no-one was walking along the pavement. I'll find out the verdict from the garage on Monday.
  4. Yes the cv joint is a total mis-diagnosis of the original problem. I was just wondering if it is possible to refit the propshaft mis-alligned, therefore causing the problem in the diff?
  5. The front heavy duty diff exploded this morning! Could this be due to the mechanics error when refitting the propshaft?
  6. Do I need longer wheel studs to fit alloy wheels on my '99 TD5 90? I've got standard 5.5j steels fitted at the moment but i'm wanting to upgrade to modulars or alloys. If it means having to replace all the studs I think I'll stick to mods. Thanks, Matt.
  7. Thanks Nic. I take it that your saying that the solid QT boss is not as long as the collapsible versions i.e. momo etc, therefore altering the steering wheel position less?
  8. I'm looking to buy a momo steering wheel off e-bay. Having looked around and seen a few photo's on other threads I've noticed the momo boss seems to make the steering wheel closer to you. Is there any other makes of bosses that are less obtrusive? I've seen that QT Services have some but im not sure how these compare to momo's own. Any ideas would be appreciated. Ta, Matt.
  9. Thanks Gents, The beamends website looks promising, i'll give them a call.
  10. The right hand side bolt and "female receiving thread/bolt???" (there's a square hole in a bracket so i guess something must attach to this to receive the bolt) is missing from the acoustic cover on my TD5 90. Does any one have the part numbers please? Thanks in advance.
  11. Hi Gents, I'm planning on replacing one of the rear corner flashings on my Defender 90 as its rusted and looks cr*p. I'm thinking of going for a galvanised one. I've got the correct paint from the garage. Does anyone have any good tips on the best way to do it. Here are few questions that you may be able to answer for me: What size and type of rivets do I need? Whats the best primer to use? Should I prime the inner face of the capping? Does it need any sealant on it? Cheers, Matt.
  12. Something to look forward to then! Think I'll join the AA.
  13. Thanks Mo, No its not in diff lock. Had a drive today and there was no noise. The mechanic thinks it might be a dodgy cv joint as it happened with full lock on in reverse. Ill keep my eye on it and keep you informed. On another note I decided to change the rear discs and pads today as they were in a terrible state. I had to smack the hubs off the axles with a lump hammer cos they wouldn't slide off. The discs and hubs were also rusted together so they've taken a hammering too! The pistons on the calipers are in a state. They wouldn't retract enough to get the pads on so i think i'll have to overhaul them. They're lockheed calipers. Does anyone know the part number for a new piston kit. Is it stc1279? Thanks
  14. Thanks Jimmy, Circlips are still attached.
  15. Thanks for the reply White90. Just had a quick look. Everything looks present and correct.
  16. Hello Guys, This is my first post on the forum so please be gentle with me! I own a 90 hard top which ive had about 6 months. Its a T Reg and done about 85k. This is my first landy which i use for work every day, and until today it hasn't been too much bother. Today i had a new uj fitted next to the transfer box. Had a lovely smooth drive home (elbow out!), pulled up outside my house stuck it in reverse and clunk!! limped it into its parking spot. I have slowly driven it a few metres forwards and backwards and the noise/feeling only seems to happen in reverse but im not 100% sure. I dont want to risk driving too far. I'm going to ring the garage in the morning and get their advice. But if anyone has any advice i'd really appreciate it so i can put myself out of my misery. Ta, Matt
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