matthew74

I'll give it a go. Cheers.

I have, they couldn't get anywhere near. Adrian Flux over £1000. Frank Pickles: vehicle isn't modified enough. Sure Term won't insure the vehicle if its used for work. Any other suggestions?

Just had my renewal quote from the NFU. 53% increase!!!! FFS! 

I had a bit of judder on my 90 that i thought was a contaminated clutch plate When i changed a leaking rear diff pinion seal it got rid of it Maybe its just play in the drivetrain.

I think sikaflex has been mentioned before for sealing the roof/window joint. Ive used black general purpose silicone which seems to do the job ok.

My 90 has some panels from here: http://www.tge-defendertrims.co.uk/index.htm I'd imagine it'd be really easy to make some yourself. They're just 9mm plywood covered in speaker carpet. There's loads of speaker carpet on ebay and spray glue. Ive also stuck 40mm kingspan sheets behind them for extra acoustic and thermal protection.

MAF sensor?

I had this problem when I changed mine a few years ago. To get the clip back on I got a tubular piece of wood about as long as the push rod, maybe slightly shorter. Something like a broom handle will do. I then drilled a hole through the centre of the wood so the pushrod wood fit through it. Then I put the clip on pushrod, put the pushrod into the wood so the clip is trapped against the end of the piece of wood and the bulbous end of the pushrod and carefully clipped it back onto the fork through the slave cylinder hole and slipped off the piece of wood. Hope that makes sense!

I bought some of these: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/5-piece-bolt-grip-set Very useful for rounded bolts.

Im guessing its the same as a td5. You have 5 mins to do it from the start of the procedure so make sure you've got the battery and something to prise open the fob ready. Unlock/disable alarm of vehicle. Insert key, turn to position II then 0 and remove key. Remove battery from fob, and press any of the buttons for 5 secs to drain any electrical energy. Put in new battery and put fob back together. Press padlock button 4 times next to vehicle to resynchronise then unlock button. Sorted.

my mate is having problems with his 52 plate HSE. When driving along he is experiencing a loss of power/acceleration. Is there any known problems with model that may be causing it? Cheers, Matt.

The fuel filter maybe under the rear right hand wheel arch as it is on a Td5.

Thanks Western.

Oh yes. How embarrassing!

Ive tried searching but cant find the part numbers for the two blocks of blistering paint magnet that connect the windscreen frame to the bulkhead. Would someone be able to tell me the part numbers please. Thanks, Matt.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42788

I'm surprised no one has done a lock barrel upgrade yet.

My brother had a similair problem and it turned out to be a dodgey wheel bearing. Jack each wheel and check for play.

Discovery Centre at riffa business park, or Dave Spirret near Aberford. They're both independent land rover specialists who may be able to help. Also fourplus4 in Leeds.

I've got a qt services one with my momo.

Just a few little queries on this subject while it's up and running. Firstly the fuse size. W = VA so 55w/12v = 4.6 amps? Also do you need some sort of indication on the dash that the work light is on like an illuminated switch or an LED light for it to pass the MOT?

Oh dear, school boy error! You called it a JEEP!

http://www.mammouth4x4.co.uk/

Maybe a wheel bearing.

I used a couple of coats of hammerite stone chip shield then some normal satin black. Matches the new mud flap brackets. Make sure you double masking tape the bodywork before you start with the wire brush to ensure you don't knick the paintwork!!