v8bobber

Evening All, I have just been offered a 1972 Range Rover in white and green (slime after being standing). It has no engine but has previously had a LR Turbo diesel in it and therefore the mountings will be ready to drop a Tdi in, which I already have access to. The paintwork is not bad, and needs a good clean and the sills and boot floor etc is all good and there is no welding that needs doing, the headlining is knackered but the interior is complete although it looks a bit like an indian restaurant in there. I would not say it's perfectly original as the front grille etc has been changed. I appreciate that without seeing it in the flesh (i have so I can answer any questions) but can anyone throw in a ballpark figure Dave

Hi, Nice simple one this morning. I am building a trialler with 3.9 and HP22 auto box. Question is, do I need to keep the auto box cooler or can i do without it. I ask for convenience sake really as it's going to be a real pain to locate it in the trialler (the donor engine and box and from a 3.9 disco). I guess I need to know if I can do away with the engine oil cooler aswell. Cheers, Dave

I have a 98 Range Rover 2.5 DT (manual) I have a problem which is progressively getting worse. The battery is going flat, or draining if it is left for a couple of days. if you use it everyday it seems fine. I have had the battery tested at the local battery centre and they said it seemed fine, although it seemed as if it was flat. If you put a set of jump leads on it to another battery it starts then straight away. I have read on the rangerovers.net pages about testing for drain at the earth lead but can't work out how to activate the alarm and lock the doors etc etc if the battery earth lead is disconnected?? Am i missing something? I also read that it if it is the alarm reciever then it is possible to disconnect the aerial on it then that can help however looking on these pages i can't see that there is one on it, it is internal then? I hope someone can advise as I'm carrying around a pair of jump leads and a spare battery at the moment!! Dave

The effects of this seem to be filtering down aswell. The local Land Rover dealership has closed in the last month or so. Whether this is as a result of the financial climate or not i'm unsure but it can't of helped. However, in a strange turn of events, Cambrian Land Rover (now my nearest land rover dealer) phoned me today, as I asked online for a new Defender brochure last week and they must think i'm falling over myself to buy one. They did offer me over £3000 off the price of a new 110 though. The idea of still having to sell one of the children to pay for it does not impress the missus tho......... Dave

Ignore the last. tune resistor found, bit ordered, sorted. THanks

Thanks fridge, i'm sure you meant to sound helpful in that post - but failed. I'm sure that you know loads about fuel injection systems, good for you. But it doesn't make you the owner of all rover V8 injection systems either. If I want to run my injectors as per the Land Rover workshop manual then I will, and I will do anything else that I feel like with the vehicles I own, to learn about them or any other reason, that I see fit. I appreciate your technical advice, I do not appreciate your attitude. Do not believe that you are in any position to tell me, or anybody else what to do. Not amused to say the least, and will cut this post short before I say something out of character..............

Thanks Tom, I've found the part number now, and can get one from Rimmer bros but don't know where the tune resistor is! Any ideas? Dave

Thanks Rob, As luck would have it, its a disco that I have too. I used the Range Rover part of the forum as I thought that there would be more 3.9 RR owners than 3.9 Disco owners but it seems that it's a disco owner that has solved the problem for me - that'll learn me! I will go and have a look in the morning and see if I can find it. Can it really be that easy? What symptoms was your vehicle having. It kind of runs ok but it just seems to have an intermittent and random miss and perhaps fluffs on acceleration now and again. This has all been done in the workshop unfortunately as there is no longer an MOT etc on it. I am a bit wary of petrol electrics but i am learning slowly. Dave

I have been posing on the Range Rover part of this forum about some minor issues I am having with a 3.9 V8 on injection. Most of the issues have been sorted and it seems that the only real issue I have now is a duff Lambda sensor. There is one in each exhaust, along with a catalyst but I need to get rid of them as the engine and box will be going in a trialler and all that stuff is not needed. One of the guys in my 4x4 club has a 3.9 RR with the lambda sensors removed, however, it was like this when he bought it so I know it can be done, but don't know how!! Therefore does anyone know how to do this? Someone must! Hope someone can help Dave

I did think about the spray pattern at the time but thought the pattern was this way because the injector was permanently "open" ie not pulsing for however many milliseconds. Perhaps I just don't want to believe that as all 8 were the same. I don't fancy purchasing 8 new injectors! I can safely assume that the IAC valve is cream crackered what with that and the duff lambda sensor I'm surprised that the bloody thing is working at all and should be happy that the thing idles to some degree at least. It's trial day tomorrow and I will speak to a mate of mine who did away with his lambda sensors. I'll ask him how he did it, and if it's not too much hassle I'll take that route. I always like to stay standard if possible but the exhausts on the trialler are tubular ones and I would have to fabricate the mountings for them which is asking for trouble! I will have to wait a while now though as my P38 has decided that it's time to play silly buggers so I won't be taking the 3.9 out of the disco just yet, incase I have to move it sharpish to get the work done on the road truck. Oh Joy!! Thanks for your help so far by the way! Dave

I agree with the big defender look. I reckon a 110 body would sit on there quite nicely. You know it makes sense! D

Well it seems I am back to just about square one. I have had the injectors out from the block and have fired them "manually" from the ecu, they all seem to be giving the correct flow rate and also the pattern seems to be alright. Air leaks seem to be non-existent and everything is alot cleaner than it was before. Which brings me back to the lambda sensor malarky. I am hearing hints that the lambda sensors can be by-passed so I don't need them. I would like to find this out sooner rather than later, especially as i'm looking at about 60quid for a new one. Cost wouldn't normally be a problem but it might be excessive seeing as the machine is only going to be used off road So Fridge, if you're listening, or anyone else for that matter, knows how to do away with the lambda sensors and cares to let me know how - i would be grateful. I have included some pics, but am aware that i'm probably going to get shouted at as they may be a bit large. Dave This is what the 3.9 will end up in in bits testing back together

further update. Injectors seem to be fine. Interesting to watch them working. Must have certainly flushed em out a bit anyway! I've just had a thought, how is it possible to get rid of the lambda sensors bearing in mind that this engine will be going in an offroad only trialler? Dave

Right this is where I am so far. I am not in a position to double check the possibly dodgy lambda sensor at the moment as I have decided on a minor stripdown in order check the injectors which is my job for the morning. I think the IAC valve may be playing silly buggers as I took it out and cleaned it and put it back and seemed much better. I was under the impression that with the thing out, and the ignition turned on and off the little plunger should move in or out but just stayed where it was, however when I turned the ignition off the thing just kind of vibrated, so not sure if thats working properly or not. It's been 15 years since i've been involved with petrol engines! Anyhoo, I spent an hour checking all the hoses and there aren't any leaks. I was very thorough with regards to that, there was one tiny split on the out casing of the hose that runs between the breather and the plenum chamber but did not appear to have gone through, plenty of tape has sorted that though as a precaution. Speed transducer has been checked as it is part of the 24 stage diagnostic test as outlined in the workshop manual. I have the injector rail out and will be testing the injectors shortly, then it will be a case of putting everything back together and testing that lambda sensor again to check that it is faulty. I happened to speak to a mate of mine last night who is in my 4x4 club and works in a garage and tells me that he has seen a couple of 3.9s with a slightly lumpy idle which have been down to a dodgy lambda sensor. Highway, I hadn't thought about the engine breathers, I will take those off and clean them while i'm doing the injector tests. I'll post a picture later if I can work out how. Cheers, Dave

Thanks for that, I had kind of dismissed air leaks as I assumed that this would have given a lean mixture. The plugs clearly show that it has been running rich for a while. Saying that though, it has only recently started doing the surging since I started fiddling with it! How do i test for a dodgy idle control valve other than to take it out and turn the ignition on and off to make sure it isnt sticking? Also, flap/lever position checking and adjusting, base idle speed/mixture, is that in the workshop manual somewhere. I haven't seen anything this morning after having a quick flick through. I seem to remember that there was something about the TPS but with big letters saying - DO NOT ADJUST next to it. lol. Theres nothing to say that the previous owner has fiddled with it though i guess. THe vehicle is new to me and i am only getting the engine running sweet so it can go into my new project. I can see what you are saying and it gives me some more avenues to explore which is great. Hope you can assist in pointing me in the general direction of the above tests. Thanks again Dave

HI all, I posted a question a while back about my 3.9 not running particularly well at idle. It is not as bad as a misfire but is an intermitent "roughness". On the advice of Fridge I have interrogated the Tech archive which led me to do all the diagnostic tests which were fine except for the one for the lambda sensor. Further investigation into testing Lambda sensors have shown that the drivers side one is pulsing between 0.1v and 0.9v when putting a test meter between the signal wire (black) and battery earth, apparently as it should be. However, when I have done the same test on the passenger side sensor the reading seems constant at about 0.45 volts maybe dropping to 0.35 volts occasionally, not fluctuating between the above values as I am led to believe is correct. I have also changed the plugs recently and they seemed quite wet as if to suggest that the engine is running a bit rich. My question is, what are the symptoms of a failed / dodgy lambda sensor? Is it likely to be the cause of my slightly rough idle. Oh, and I forgot to mention, the engine had also started "surging" on start up. ie, i start the engine and it runs fast and then goes down to near stall speed or sometimes infact does stall and then revs up again unti after about 10-15 seconds it finds a constant speed and it's then fine again after that. Can I safely assume then that the lambda sensor is faulty or not, and if it is duff, would it account for the problems that I am having? What are the symptoms of a faulty lambda sensor anyway? Hope someone can advise Dave

noted! had a friendly email from Tomcat today stating that they have their trials springs back in stock. 200quid-ish all in for a set and designed for 80" specials in the first place! Lovely! Dave

The 80" rebuild is coming along nicely, once I can get the 3.9 in the donor disco running smoothly then I will be much happier though! However, while I am waiting for the various ignitiion parts to arrive for the wee-beastie my thoughts are turning to suspension again - as it does on these blustery autumn nights. The vehicle in question is an 80" special, as seen in my prof picture. Usual set up, cut down RR chassis, will have disco 3.9 engine, box and running gear, so not sure as to the overall weight as yet. I have considered standard springs (apparently v8 disco fronts are softest?), Tomcat used to do trials springs but I can't find them on the site anymore (email sent to clarify), maxtraction do an interesting spring but I would be looking at nearly 400quid for a set of 4 springs, plus new shocks hoses etc etc I would be looking at 600-700quid, almost into air shock territory. So then, can anyone suggest a suitable set up. I don't mind spending abit of cash, and will even shell out on the Max traction stuff if it proves to be the best option, but I do want to consider all the options before I spend my hard earned. Regards, Dave

Ahhh i see 1.) Thanks 2.) Should have looked before I asked 3.) Slightly worried by the french translation 4.) I'll let you know how i get on! Thanks again Dave

Hello all, I have just purchased a 3.9 auto RR to use as a donor vehicle for a trialler. Although running ok, it's not running perfectly and I now want to get it running as best I can. The previous engine in the trialler was a 3.5 on carbs and with a bit of fiddling I could get it running ok. However I am a bit lost with this unit mostly due to the fuel injection system. I intend to do a compressioon check on the unit tomorrow just to make sure that its generally sound, and have ordered replacement ignition components for it. What I need to know now is where to go from here should these remedial things not have the desired effect? Hope that theres a V8 expert reading this somewhere! Regards, Dave

many thanks, i'm still keeping everything crossed that it should all fit! Cheers, Dave

Evenin' all. Another obscure question. I have just removed the engine and box (3.5/4sp man) out of my little trialler which is in the process of having a major refurb including new engine / box axles etc etc, however I cannot get down to my donor vehicle 3.9 auto disco for a few days, so......... I was wondering if anyone knew the distance between engine mounting and gearbox mounting on a 3.9 with auto box-ish. I'm dying to know what the difference is to give me an idea how diffucult it is to get the "new" engine/box in. I'm hoping to hang the rear of the gearbox where the old one was, and then alter the engine mounts if necessary to suit. However, i do not actually know what the new box mounts look like so that plan may well be a non starter anyway! Any help much appreciated. I'd post a couple of pics but i think there would be much laughing! Dave

All, I'm in the process of refitting an old trialler out and am replacing the old tired 3.5 with a 3.9 with injection, Allisport are going to make me a tank but obviously I will need a new fuel pump. Can anyone recommend one, or advise as to the pressure I need, and if I will need a pressure regulator Thanks again, Dave

I know our club accepts them, and it's only in our club that I will be competing in anyway. However, I have since had an email from Sowden tyres who have told me that they no longer sell the tyres as they have been discontinued so god knows why they advertise them on the site! Annoying! Dave

Nice one, Thanks for the advice, I hadn't considered the Annaconda to be honest, I just didn't like the look of them I guess. I also haven't seen anyone using them. I went onto the Sowdens website to look at the above tyre and saw the Alligator on there, has anyone used these? They look very similar to the Maxxis, or maxicrosss that used to be around years ago. Could be the way forward! I have sent an email out of interest to them to find out wether they still supply them as I found that alot of the Greenway tyres had been discontinued. That should be the sensible choice, however, I still like the look of the Simex copies! dave