v8bobber

just had a thought. Is this likely to be a blocked crankcase breather?

at least 2000 miles i would say, i havent added anything in that time Dave

Hi all, I have 1998 RR P38a 80,000 miles. Had it about 7 or 8 months. When I bought it I changed all the oils and filters and has been running ok since i've had despite a couple of teething troubles. I month or two ago I noticed an oil leak but was not too bothered about it as it did not seem to be using any oil. However, i've just happened to check the oil while i was changing the diesel filter and noticed that it's gone down from almost exactly "full" to just over half. I suppose i had to put a mug full of oil in it to bring it up to a more sensible level. I am hope that the engine oil is leaking from the engine and not being burnt. The oil leak seems to be from the front of the engine, on both sides and the oil the runs down the engine and onto the floor, say around the area of piston number one. It also leaks a bit from the oil filler cap which also runs down the side of the engine and i thought that initially this was the cause of the oil down the side of the engine, but now im not so sure.... I have put my palm over the open filler cap whilst the engine is running and there doesnt seem to be much in the way of crankcase pressure, although the engine was cold when i did this. I seem to remember that I have done this in the past and have not noticed it. I would not expect engine wear at 80K and judging by the condition of the rest of the engine and vehicle the mileage appears to be genuine and the service record was virtually up to date when i bought it. I am tempted to buy a diesel compression tester kit and establish at least that the engine itself is not worn and in general good fettle. Anyone had oil leaks on the P38 diesel or have any ideas as to what it might be. Thanks in advance Dave

Many Thanks J. Just heading out to the garage with a tape measure and some chalk i'll give you a go in the machine when it's finished, your clothes should be dry by then!! Thanks again, Dave

Thanks, an accurate measurement of the overall and individual lengths of the units would be great. Would really help me alot, but don't got rolling around on the floor on my behalf! I've seen the 80" on ebay but wondered if the cage looked a bit low for me?! Regards Dave

This is one hell of a machine. By the look of it though i stand absolutely no chance of getting into it unfortunately Looking at the pics on the other forum theres a guy smaller than me getting stuck in it. At 6'2" and 17 stone i think this may well be too small. Unless I build a similar thing using range rover axles and bits. Don't know what engine would do this biz tho Dave

In that case - Jericho - if you could measure those things up then YES PLEASE! I am assuming that the engine mountings and stuff must be in the same place then - ho hum! Will be nice to get some measurements and see if this bugger will actually go together Evenin' Dave

Cheers, I was under the impression that the 200tdi didn't fit onto the LT77 though, only the r380 (reverse opp fifth?). That would be of some use though, as it can't be far out you reckon? starting to get a headache now! Cheers pal

cheers for that both, I had an 80 before that was made with a v8 and a range rover 4 speed box, but the propshaft was only about 12inches longer. My concern is that with such a short propshaft the travel on the rear axle is going to be limited. I can see me going the V8 route at this rate but i do want to have a diesel if possible but not if it's not going to do the business. Does the series box take a fair bit of length off it then? at least with a series box on it they are cheap and i've got a couple! I searched at great length through the Land Rover workshop manual but could not find any dimensions for the transmission but i have a chassis drawn to scale (i'm a bit sad like that) to do some mock ups for transmissions. Malcolm Whitbread reckoned that with a short box we could get a 20inch+shaft. Moving the engine forward is not going to be a problem if I need to. great pic by the way Regards, Dave

hi all, I'm not far off starting my 80" tdi trialling project. I've going to use a 200tdi and get a defender gearbox and transfer box to go with it. Does anyone know the overall length of the Tdi / LT77 and LT230 combination? Or of any other short combinations that will fit into the 80". I want to keep it diesel and manual if possible. Cheers! Dave

damn, sorry, i'll try and move it.

hi all, I'm not far off starting my 80" tdi trialling project. I've going to use a 200tdi and get a defender gearbox and transfer box to go with it. Does anyone know the overall length of the Tdi / LT77 and LT230 combination? Or of any other short combinations that will fit into the 80". I want to keep it diesel and manual if possible. Cheers! Dave

Gotcha, if I need to go down that route then that price and material seem alot more reasonable! Cheers, Dave

Cheers for that, i had 235/85x16 MTs on the 90 and they were just about right for the amount of offroading I do, I reckon that unless you are doing winch events etc, you don't need massive tyres, i still trial on 750s! Did you find that wheels fouled the arches at all when off road under articulation, assuming that I bend that lip over? Dave

evenin' all I want to fit some bigger wheels and tyres to the Range Rover Tdi, 4 door, and get rid of the 245/70x16s that are there. I have seen some wheel arch extension kits, has anyone fitted them or seen the kits, and where can I get them / how much??? I reckon that I can get 235/85x16s on with a two inch lift, but what would be a sensible size to put on with these modded arches. How about 265/75 16s or do you reckon that they would be lost in the arches? Thoughts please?? Dave

Well, i thought that I had it sorted. a quick change of batteries a month ago allowed me to use the remote which was soooo convenient again. However, going to an important interview this morning, i pressed the remote, and ................ nothing! After about 30 minutes or so, the doors finally opened and I arrived in the nick of time. Once I'd got in the red "alarm" light on the dash stayed on until i turned the key. Any ideas whats gone wrong this time? Dave

What's an emulator? From my experience of fitting boat "fly by wire" engines, there can't be as many sensors etc as there is on those. I'm guessing that there is an air temp sensor, a diesel temp sensor and everything else should be internal. Do you know any different? Dave

still looks better than the new freelander!! Dave

I've got 245/70 16 BFG all terrains on my RRC on standard suspension with no problems other than they reduce the lock slightly. Standard 3 spoke alloys Dave

Faulty ignition switch maybe, we had this problem on a boat in work this week. Try pulling the wire off the soleniod and see if it stops then. At least this will isolate whether the problem is something mechanical in the pump or something electrical further up! Dave

B)--> QUOTE(Michael B @ Jun 25 2006, 12:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The right rear turn signal on my 89 works perfectly- until I apply the brakes or switch on the headlamps. Then everything EXCEPT the indicator flashes. Also, if I apply the brakes with the headlamps on, the tail light goes out when the brake light goes on! Please help. This is my first Range Rover, so I'm new to all this. Thanks! There's got to be a bad earth somewhere I would have thought. Time to get the multimeter out! Dave

I've found that by the time you do all that you can easily have changed the springs in the same time! Dave

I'd be really interested to hear how you get on with this one! Had a similar thought about this for a forthcoming 80", Rear prop may be a bit short to do this thoug Dave

Oh god, what a mess they've made of that one!

lol. Excellent. It's just done the rounds in work now! Dave