jaws602

Just fitted a set today,very easy to fit. I converted my old wires to the newer type of connectors as I thought it would be a shame to cut the new wires. They are very bright compared to the old units. I also fitted one of there number plate lights which was a massive improvement over the bulbs of the old unit.

My p38(99 Dhse)has decided to play up, all the height settings lights are on the dash height light is on and I have the dreaded EAS Fault 35mph max on the display. I cannot see anything obvious leaking and the compressor must be doing something as it will lift slightly. I left it running with the door open and it went up when the door was closed and then it levelled its self back down until it was at the bottom again. I swapped the relay for another and the back went up about four inches and then the same again back down. It seems to be worst on the back as the front seems to have a little air in it. I have read that nothing will be sorted again until the fault is cleared so I was thinking or buying a HawkEye diagnostic tool to read the fault and clear it when fixed, this would also be a useful tool to have for any problem in the future. Any advice or opinions on the fault or on the HawkEye tool would be greatfully appreciated.

Merry Christmas everyone.

About 6-8 inches here in Pendle and still coming down on and off. You'd think it was 6 to 8 feet the way some people react to it. Not a problem with the wright vehicle (90) and decent tyres (BFG MT's) and not driving to fast (19j TD). Not had a problem so far.

it's funny you would say about the fluid being black the other month when the master cylinder was sucking air the fluid was grey and had a gritty texture to it so maybe the pipe had been breaking down inside. sorry i wasn't clear about this before but i have a 19j turbo diesel in it with an lt77 gearbox, the 200tdi (disco) i mentioned is a spare engine that i have to go into my 90 when anything goes on this one but so far not had a problem in 3 years only clutch problems. the cylinders that i first put on were both britparts but the second set have been lucas/trw products which i would have thought would be better. i will check on the shape of the pivot the next time i can have a look when it's not raining.

update i went out yesterday and split the engine and box and the pivot point has pushed straight through the dorm most of the way around the circle of the dorm joint.so definately fitting a reinforced arm this time. the dorm has plenty of grease still on it so that was not the problem. would there be any warranty on the arm as it's only been on 6 months (britpart bought from paddocks),i don't do any heavy towing so no strain has been put on it. is there anything that can be causing extra strain on the arm? i was looking on here and have seen a mod for the clip that holds the push rod in place is this worth doing as the plastic clip on mine had one of the two lugs broken off?

Thats why i asked him to reinforce it last time but he wouldn't because of the warranty. I would have prefered it to have been done properly the first time instead of having to take the gearbox out again. When i phoned hime today to tell him that the cylinders are ok and that the problem was going to be the arm, i said are we going to use a reinforced version this time he said did we not last time, so i reminded him what he had said last time and he has decided we will fit a stronger version this time. foundry 4x4 do a reinforced kit, is it worth buying this at £13 or buying a standard one and welding a plate onto it?

I had a look last night and the slave cylinder works fine when not attached to the arm so it looks like it could be something in side. Either the arm or something else has broken ,bent or become detached. So it looks like another gearbox out job (i think the nuts might aswell be replaced with wingnuts for easy removal ready for next time) or engine change time and do two jobs at once while it's in bits. sorry again for shouting in my earlier post.

Sorry for shouting i was quickly writing the reply at work and did not relise i had not changed from capitals, as this is what we use for processing orders on the system. I am still waiting for a chance to take the slave cylinder out and have a look, hopefully tonight if it is not raining.

THE FIRST SET OF CYLINDERS THAT I GOT WERE BRITPART ITEMS FROM THE LOCAL SPECIALIST IN MY TOWN. THIS WAS BEFORE I STARTED TO USE PADDOCKS, AS THEY CHARGED ME MORE FOR THE BRITPART SLAVE CYLINDER THAN PADDOCKS CHARGED FOR A LUCAS/TRW MASTER CYLINDER AND THEN DOUBLE AGAIN FOR THE MASTER. THE MASTER CYLINDER ONLY LASTED ABOUT 5/6 MONTH BEFORE IT STARTED TO LEAK AND WAS CHANGED FOR THE TRW ITEM. I MAY BE WRONG SAYING I HAVE HAD 3 CYLINDERS, IT MAY ONLY BE 2 IT JUST FEELS LIKE THERE HAS BEEN MORE WITH THE AMOUNT OF TIMES IT'S GONE WRONG. THE MASTER THAT IS CURRENTLY FITTED IS THE LEAKING BRITPART ITEM AS A TEMPEREY MEASURE TO FIX THE LAST PROBLEM WHICH TURNED OUT TO BE THE TRW MASTER CYLINDER SUCKING IN AIR. THE NEW CLUTCH THAT WAS FITTED DIDN'T NEED DOING AS IT STARTED TO SLIP AGAIN AFTER. IT WAS ACTUALLY THE MASTER CYLINDER THAT MY MATE FITTED HAD NOT BEEN ADJUSTED CORRECTLY SO WAS NOT CLEARING PROPERLEY. THE CLUCH ARM WAS REPLACED JUST BEFORE CHRISTMAS I WANTED IT REINFORCED BUT HE SAID NO IT WOULD NO LONGER BE GAREENTED IF IT WAS FAULTY.

In the last 2 years i have had 3 new master cylinders, 3 slave cylinders, a new clutch and a new clutch release arm just before christmas. Tonight something has gone again (popped/banged) then the peddle has gone solid(feeling lucky as i did a 150 mile trip yesterday afternoon with my trailer, small 750kg unbreaked with only a bed on it) i had to come home in low range with no clutch, iam getting familliar with this method lately. There is still fluid in the system and no signs of a leak. I am suspecting that the arm has gone as my mate who fitted it would not weld a plate onto the new arm last time because it would mean the warranty on the arm would not be valid. It would have been better that than to have to take the box out again or as he wants to do is take out the TD (never had a problem in 3 years) and fit a 200tdi from a disco that i already have. Any ideas would be most welcome. p.s why is a disco dipstick (missing on my engine)almost 10 times more expensive than the defender item ?

I followed the advice posted by western ages ago, but i went one further and bought 2 new twin washer put them in the holes covered by grommets. Then used two T pipes and connected them up along with the original twin jet, now i get 6 strong jets of water flooding the screen (just a pitty the wipers are not as good).