Soren Frimodt

Really liking this! Fitting the bulkhead is a big step, panels will go on in no time its a simple vehicle after all

P38/D2 axles on that RRC Blanco?

Yeah, problem is that the V8 has a 10.5" clutch as opposed to only a 9,5" on the Series. So all V8 bellhousings are quite a lot bigger than the Series.

Looking good

No there are no other reasons, with the dent I told you I made in the bulkhead the engine can be fitted. But of your're using the RRC gearboxes you'll end up a bit further forward anyways. But then you'd have to modify the bulkhead anyways just to stuff that huge trans in there It has a viscous coupling dealing with the 4x4

Don't listen to the Rivet Counters Joe Take that drivetrain you know and trust and stuff it into the 88" and don't look back.. IMO there's no more reason to be worrying about saving RRC's now than back when there was plenty of them. Back then we all new it would end eventually anyways so the deed was no less innocent. The general movement towards originality and "numbers matching" destroys creativity and all the good tech threads on here and everywhere else!..

I don't ever see any linear form of deviation, and they might as well rise as fall in torque value. Usually when abused they tend to be too high in the lower setttings and too low in the higher. Many do the mistake of using it for those last 90Degrees on the stretchy bolts. They just don't like that

I calibrate Torque wrenches for a living, and yes you do need to wind them back or the spring will go flat.. BUT If I were you I'd shell out and buy a Stahlwille, they work in a completely different way and do NOT need to be wound back, furthermore the quality is so good you'll have the same wrench the rest of your days. With regards to calibration frequency, about every 5 years should do it on a stahlwille at a DIY shed, then you'll always be able to trust your settings, no use in using a torque wrench if it isn't telling the truth

Oldschool 88" vs Newschool 88", which will win?

Nice Wheels, looks very period What size are the tyres? 700? And are they a radial tyre even though the look old school?

Sounds like the BW would be the best choice to me They do have a tendency to go weak in the viscous coupling when abused, but thats usually on much heavier vehicles and with upwards of 35" tyres, so I'm sure you'll be quite happy with it. It sure drives nice with much less 'clunking' than the lt230

"Mirror, mirror on the wall" Sitting as far inboards as you do in this, its impossible to see anything just by turning your head (also the top of the seats are pretty wide, blocking the view) So I had hoped that a single mirror in the center would be enough. BUT some jerk has placed the spare-wheel right smack in the middle just because he thought it looked 'Racey' Alas, some more mirrors were required, and I do think it turned out alright, pretty well hidden away and quite protected. Time will tell if it works out: Barely noticeable from the front: And finally the view from the drivers seat:

No, I can see how you mimght think sp though I have a "pinion brake" on the back, located at the gearbox where the handbrake assy used to be. A hydraulic disc brake setup using a single RRC rear caliper. Works plenty well with the gearing through the driveline and you save heaps of weight (especially unsprung) BUT seeing as the speed has increased on their events (along with tyre size and HP) they've decided that it needs to have brakes on all 4 corners

A bit was one today. Steering damper fitted with homemade bracket at the diff to tuck it up nice and high: The regs for the events I want to run nest year requires brakes at all 4 wheels as they are a bit 'speedy' so out came the old drumbrakes that were once fitted to the Sal's: Had it out for a little posing the other day:

Trying here mate, as I cant the MMS stuff to Work 😂