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Soren Frimodt

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Soren Frimodt last won the day on October 13

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About Soren Frimodt

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  1. The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread

    There's chequer plate for that alone!
  2. 300TDi overhaul

    Well on the three engine I've had apart it hasn't been the case! They where all worn on the crank, though only one of them very badly and it had done 540.000km's. But still, a rather stupid design to wear the crank instead of a replaceable gear. Indeed.. 200TDI FTW!
  3. As all proper 88"s it needed something in the middle of the windshield area to annoy you, so a tube was added This tube is a slightly smaller diameter and thinner wall, its the same I used in the cross bar at the front. As you can see I added a bit paneling as well to get to the height of the bonnet, here's how it looks from the inside: This gives you an overview of just how short the nose is, only the length of a Series bonnet: Also just got time to fit a center hinge a center hold down in the front. All just stuff I had laying around, no fancy Billet Race stuff here
  4. 300TDi overhaul

    Well its not a woodruff key, its kind of hard for me to explain, English is not my native language. Its more like big flatblade screwdriver (very big) But just as a flatblade screwdriver it only really rests on the ends, which is why its so easy to ruin a flatblade screw. And being a diesel it rocks back and forth all the time eventually wearing not only the rotor of the pump but also the crank. Sadly google can't help me with any pictures of the engagement on the crank
  5. 300TDi overhaul

    One thing I could mention you should be aware of is the "keyway" on the crank for the oil pump rotor. In their wisdom they deleted the tried and true separat oilpump that was driven by the cam, and fitted one directly driven off the crank on the 300. But this now means that a lot of wear is directly on the crank. And with that many miles its highly likely to be well worn. So definitely check that when you take it apart. Other than that its a pretty straightforward engine to Work on
  6. It might look like I'm reloading the same picture, but there's actually 1,5 hours of work between the two Front bar fully welded in, unnecessary bracketry from top of chassis and the radiator removed so that it will fit in behind the grille. Upper radiator mounts done and chassis rail-ends trimmed and boxed
  7. Lexus 109 “Koya”

    Argh don't talk all that sense Jad! Yeah I men the one that wraps arount the one with the bushing in, the outer layer I call it
  8. Lexus 109 “Koya”

    Great to see the old gal is still going strong, it begs the question though.. Now that you've run it for a good while and gotten used to the power.. When will a Turbo find its way into the engine compartment? They take boost so well those 1UZ's! On the leafspring conondrum, I've had this happen several times, its because the outer leaf gets twisted and doesn't return to the straight position. Too cheap spring material I'm afraid. You could turn it round end to end, then the NeXT time you Flex like mad it might end up somewhat straight
  9. The front end came a little closer to completion today, going to be a really short nose as I'm using a Series bonnet, going to be hard to have that radiator there, but its going to happen I'm sure!
  10. Flat power tool batteries - what to do ?

    If, by the off chance, you can arrange a cheap enough way of collecting it in Denmark, I'll let you have one for free, Würth branded but directly from Bosch
  11. Thanks for the input Daan, though fabricating new A-arm, crossmembers and radius arms is not really possible within the timeframe I have on this project, but all of it except the crossmembers could of course be done on a later date. I have removed the rearmost crossmember already, so there's only the one the A-frame mounts to and the one that is bolted in that has stayed in. Oh and of course the front one under the radiator but its basically going to be my bumper so it might as well stay. The thing is I have to lose at least 200kgs by the time I'm done to be able to move it on my new Trailer. And that's not going to happen I'm afraid.. One option is to go Series gearbox, that would save me a considerable amount, but it isn't nearly as strong as the LT95, and with 35"s and possibly a bigger V8 down the road I don't think it'll live a long and happy life Anyways I only have a single picture for you this time as it has been out of the garage the whole weekend, bar just tonight. Had some things to do on the 88" Started bending the last bits of tubing for the front. The rest is going to be straight pieces: Got the other side bend as well, just need to notch it and burn it in! The 35"s are on to check for clearances
  12. I did a rought calculation on the matter yesterday, and If I drill out chassis, radius arms and A-arms it wouldn't result in more than about 50kgs. Shockturrets are not that heavy in stock form, but say I made some cheesy ones out of angle iron it would probably be about 2kgs saved per side. So it doesn't really add up to much, not nearly enough anyways. You can't see it from the Pictures, but the seatbox is actually made out of 3 different materiels. 40x40 3mm wall squarebox in the front part, I see this as a structural part of the rocksliders. 40x40 3mm wall Angle iron in the sides, just there for looks and to hold one corner of the seat. And finally 40x40 1,5mm wall Squarebox between the seats to hold the inner most fixings of the seats
  13. Just a wee update, had it outside today so thought I'd snap a quick picture. After my seats arrived yesterday I've been working on placement and fitting of those, and I've also finally found just the sweet spot for the pedal assy and steering column, this thing is so crammed together it takes some time to find just the right place for everything Oh and by the way, we're up to 1200kgs as it sits in the picture, and with the tube work not nearly done, I'm probably going to end up closer to 1400kgs which is a bummer, but there's nothing I can do about it sadly, have kept everything as simple and light as possible along the way. But that driveline just is a heavy MoFo
  14. Ohh that has great affectional value to you then, and I'm sure you won't be selling that again Though I have had several Defenders, I must admit that my heart truly lies with the Series. They just have that bit more character which I love. Funny thing is I swap between my Jag and the 88" on my daily commute and I enjoy both at equal amounts, just in two completely separate ways Yikes, finally some point that makes Denmark worth living in then With regards to the MOT testers I fear we are in the same boat though, they just don't understand true love for cars, the kind of true love you could NEVER have with a modern VW, Toyota, Nissan etc etc. They think that the quality on new cars are soo much better, but they couldn't be further off the truth, they just seem good because they're new. Just today one of our CItroen company cars, with only 80.000Km's on the clock and 5 years old, lost drive to one of the wipers.. When I took it apart to find out what was wrong, the cast Ali arm had completely corroded away! In five bl**dy years??
  15. Yes they are great indeed, my very first Landie was a V8 90" such a smooth and quiet running machine its lovely! All the Diesel Guys don't know what they are missing In 5 years time the 90" will be stated as vintage in Denmark, meaning 8 years between MOT's instead of 2, and roadtaxes will be cut by 75% ! So this thing will go from roughtly 400£ to 100£ So this will probably make the value in Denmark rise even more. So now is probably a good time to invest