Soren Frimodt

Great CAD work Ross. Everything looks good and solid, only thing that is really still a big questionmark is how the handling will be, but only time can answer that one! Is there someway you can fit a couple of longditutional bolts on that crossmember holding the upper link arm to the front? I'm afraid it would wiggle loose over time? Relying only on the clampingforce between the chassis and crossmember

Really looking good Steve, that strut-bracing is completely overkill but I like it!

Okay that satisfies my OCD thank you There won't be any vibration dampening in a bolt through metal, rubber and metal again, but it will allow for some movement. For a race car I'm sure its fine Yes making little brackets is very awarding but also extremely time-consuming at times! But I suppose that makes one appreciate the end result even more.. Oh BTW that thing would be awesome with a set of portals and a big old PTO Winch in the back

haha 😂. yes I did see that, but what I meant was that it looks very thin, ie not much rubber, ie not much give 🙂 but it could very well be an illusion, or just because I'm watching it on my phone 😂

Great progress and workmanship 👍 I am a little concerned about that exhaust mount though, is the engine mounted solid, or at least with poly bushes? Else I fear that mount will break or work loose. Not much give in it I would think. I like the details on the various brackets you make, really a proper job

Seeing all those extra bearings and tensioners to go wrong reminds me why I don't run Serpentine Granted, on the V8 its only one extra bearing and a tensioner, but on the 200/300 tdi there's a completely redundant pulley with a bearing that can't be replaced

Great write-up! And soo good to see a Classic being resurrected!

Yeah it is isn't it? Wasn't my plan though, but hey I must be damaged from being around Landys all my life yes it seems to work great, I just wish I could've done the same in the other end, but seeing as its very close to my buttocks when I crawl in and out, I couldn't see a way around it that wouldn't create a potential trouser-ripping moment

All done, first a view from the seat, then from the outside

Got the door-bar sorted today. Got an idea yesterday about letting the bar fold into half a tube, so that when its shut its firmly secured, but when its open its easy to lift off. The bar itself just needs a lick of paint now: As you can see it folds forward just enough to have to be pushed to hit the fender arch, so this means I can just make some sort of hook arrangement to hold it open if I feel like it. But seeing as it just lifts off, and weighs nothing, I could just remove it all together

You mean the same way that I've connected the front clip on this thing, just only with one bolt so that it pivots?

I'm continually sorting and modding small things on this to make it a more complete package, much of it is not really worth taking, let alone sharing, pictures of.. However I've just started making a "door-bar" not only for safety but also because I don't really like the look of the angled door-bar when all other lines are horizontal. It will have to be hinged though, as getting in and out would be a right pain otherwise. So here's where I'm at so far: Inserted an old mechanism from a 109 fire-engine into the door-bar which will only be accessible from the inside making the tube smooth on the outside so it doesn't get hung up or torn apart. Next up is devising some kind of HD hinge for the front

I've been running 900's on various Series and they are just the perfect size for a leafer IMO! great gearing for the longer roadtrips and ups the offroad performance quite a bit 1- ton shackles as Fridge mentions and leafs in good condition will just about let you fit them, but a bit of trimming is necessary in both the front and rear wings/fenders

TBH I think that no matter how much anybody would want to argue, the question about reliability is quite simple. Solid fan driven by the belt at all times is, obviously the most reliable (least prone to stop cooling) Viscous fan, second most reliable in the way that it might in some cases break free in the viscous and not spin, even earlier than some electric fans will stop working but it is much easier to do a roadside repair with a piece of string/shoelace/wire/ziptie etc. Electric fan least reliable, seeing as there is many more parts that can go wrong, several connections, wires, relay, thermoswitch, the blower motor itself. many of these things can be fixed in the side of the road as well, but would require more tools, parts and time. And if the motor itself stops working there is nothing to do whatsoever. Am I missing something?

A wee bit of an update, finally managed to kill one of Optima's and seeing as I'm too cheap to spend on a new one I opted for an ordinary battery at 60£ This meant that I know had to stuff it in a box so I don't get acid all over me in an accident, so a battery box was fitted, which is way too big, but that just means I finally have a little storage room And also me and my Brother have been working on expanding his test area to also include a hill: