crwoody
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Posts posted by crwoody
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Hi Baz,
May be a little obvious but can you be absolutely sure that the master cylinder reservoir has been kept topped up while you've been bleeding the back ones?
Otherwise maybe a faulty/leaking master cylinder drawing air back in from somewhere?
Are you just doing it manually, IE 2 man job - pumping the pedal and letting off the bleed nipple under pressure?
Have you tried an Eezibleed type system for example -
http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=674&item=1818
I've used one before and it makes it a lot easier, specially if your trying to do it on your own.
Sorry to be a little vague but it's all I can think of.
Good luck
Clive
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I have two nice big handles on each end of my crossmember, I presume they're standard. Any idea what they are for?
Funny you should ask that, I used to ask myself that question when I had a 1989 D90 with those same handles on.
I took mine off when I found they weren't strong enough to be of any real use for anything.
They did appear to be a standard fitment then but not on the later ones, I've no idea of their real purpose, I'm sure someone will be along soon to enlighten us though.
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Could just be the plastic centre dust cover cap as already stated, but IMHO it's most likely to be the drive flange/member bolts loose, five M10 x 45 (17mm head) bolts around the centre of the outer hub.
They should be tightened to 65 Nm but if they are loose and have been for so long, I suspect the gasket would need replacing and maybe the bolts too.
I replaced all mine with cap head bolts, 12-9 grade.
Ideally they should be fixed with Loktite 243.
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The usual way would be to drill a hole into the centre of the remains of the stud and then use an extractor (tapered left handed spiral thread) to screw into the hole and hopefully unscrew the stud.
Two problems here though, first you need access to get a drill straight into and parallel to the stud, secondly it needs to be fairly accurately centred otherwise the extractor will jam in the hole and damage the thread.
If you can overcome the first obstacle, the second one is easier.
The last time I had to remove a broken M10 drive flange bolt, I used a 5mm drill and first drilled through the head of a M6 cap head bolt until it separated from the threaded bit, it made a perfect spacer to fit inside the outer hole and keep the drill bit centred.
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I would agree with BIG NELLIE here, I've been with the Farmers for a few years now and always had great service, they have always been best on price too (for me anyway) in terms of "cover value" on Land Rovers.
The only time they weren't the cheapest quote was when I insured an Audi A3 and even then the difference was so little that I went with them anyway coz it was just easier that way.
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Just a small aside on this one and maybe totaly irrelevant, but -
I had a leaky seal on mine last year, replaced it - still leaked - stripped the whole hub / ball out and found a small bit of broken CV joint wedged between the ball and housing and just lifting the seal lip with the wheels turned the right (wrong?) way.
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I've got a spare RH side one from my td5 if you want it.
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Just a quickie!
Have you checked the 30A fuse in the fusebox under the drivers seat? (Next to the ECU.)
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They're M8 x 40, later ones are flange head (10mm AF hex head) I think the older ones are just regular 13mm head, cap heads would work just as well.
Dont forget about the 10 mm spacers between the rail and seat box.
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I guess it depends what you want to do with it.
For simply changing a wheel, I carry a LR Discovery bottle jack, (series 1 or 2,) it's designed to fit under the end of the axle and gives just enough lift to get a wheel clear of the ground without having to lift the whole body and get the spring full extended before the wheel comes off the ground, quick and easy and doesn't take up much space.
If on the other hand you want to lift the body to get extra clearance for access underneath, (suitably supported with axle stands under the chassis of course,) then the LR side lift jack will do it, although as you say, very slowly.
Given that this kind of job would most likely be done at home, I normally use a trolley jack anyway and my original LR jack never sees the light of day.
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I've had mine in a deep ford up to the door handles, a bit scary as it started to float until the footwells filled up with water!
Raised air intake and breathers certainly helped here.
Check afterwards though that the seatbox (driver side) is not full of water, UCU may not like it!
It's also worth while keeping a check on the bearings around the front of the engine - belt tensioner, fan etc, I have had to replace a couple on mine after the grease washed out, the seals don't seem that good.
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Driving across deep ruts could cause dislocation, anything which causes articulation to the limit will.
As to popping right out and being undriveable, this should not happen so long as the spring is attached properly on the lower seat, there's not enough space between the wheel and chassis for it to come right out, (unless you've got mega size wheel spacers on!)
EDIT: just beat me to it!
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No real problem with that.
I replaced the roof on my 2001 90 recently to get rid of the (broken) glass, It's just a simple matter of popping out the headlining retaining plastic clip thingies and removing the upper seatbelt fixings and side trims then remove the headlining, you will need to hang the wiring somewhere, then go round and remove all the M6 bolts and nuts, about 12 IIRC. the roof just lifts off then, it may be a bit stuck with sealant across the top of the windscreen, I had to take a Stanley knife to mine.
I think it took me about 2 hours or so to remove and re-fit mine, not including re-fitting the headlining, I did that later after fixing a layer of foam on the inside of the new roof and added a few lashing eyes accross the top there the front and rear parts meet.
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Well, if it's any comparison, my 90 with not so much bling but a fair few declared performance bits - superchip, straight thro' centre box replacement, snorkel, bull bar with lights, winch bumper & winch, 2" lift & bigger tyres, side bars, etc. all comes in at about £240 a year and I've just insured my Disco 3 with them (the farmers) for £384 a year so thats about £52 a month for both cars.
In fairness, where I live is regarded as a fairly low risk area and I'm a bit of an oldie which helps a bit, along with max no claims.
By the way, I don't work for the NFU, or get any commission!
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I'm prety sure the're standard on a TD5, I know mine's got one anyways.
To be honest though, I would get over to the NFU for a quote, I've been with the farmers for a few years now and when it's due for renewal they are always cheapest and more flexible regarding mods etc.
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Had a similar problem with mine but I think it was mainly from condensation on the inside.
Trouble is, you can get a fair bit of condensation on the underside of the roof itself, most of which will migrate to the edges and then to the door tops as you say.
The final solution on mine (prompted by getting wedged under a big tree branch, badly denting the roof and breaking one of the alpine windows,) was to replace the entire roof with a basic van one with no glass in at all. I lined the whole inner surface by gluing on some 5mm thick closed cell foam sheet before re-fitting the headling, this improves the insulation cutting down both dampness and noise, just so long as you're not bothered about having a sunroof - I'm not, less bits to break - and leak!
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Well put C D. there's nothing really to add to that!
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Quote
"The present ones are Pirelli Zero, and don't seem to be wearing very well given the 16K miles covered."
Not doing so bad there then, I've just bought a D3 with 8.5K miles on and all 4 Scorpion Zero boots are down to about 4.5mm, (unless someones had a fiddle with the mileage of course.)
I spoke to a local tyre fitter today who told me that he's replaced a full set of those on a Volvo V70 at about 10k.
I guess I'll be asking the same questions pretty soon then.
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Morrisons Sunflower oil for most cooking, Virgin Olive oil for salads - ......................
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That should be for the "passive coil".
On trucks fitted with an immobiliser, there is a coil around the ignition key barrel to detect the transponder in the key, your "spare" plug would connect to it.
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hazard warning lights should only be used in an emergency. ie im broken down.
Or - "I'm illegally parked outside the paper shop and just pretending to be broken down!"
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It depends what you're trying to achieve and what they're from.
1) If they have the right hole placement (PCD) and offset they will fit, otherwise adaptors would be needed.
2) The accuracy of the speedo would depend on the tyre profile, so long as the outer diameter of the tyre is similar to the standard ones it won't be affected.
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I seem to remember reading somewhere that Citroen BX (GTI?) seats fit easily into a Defender and have the advantage of a removable base making battery (and ECU on a td5) access easy too.
Or am I just dreaming?
Only problem with this solution being that most of the BX's have already been scrapped!
Any one else come across this?
A really boring picture
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
What a brilliant idea - will you sue me for copyright if I do that to mine?