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crwoody last won the day on December 4 2019

crwoody had the most liked content!


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    Littleborough, Lancs.

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  1. Loose wheel bearing, allows the disc to run slightly off true while manoeuvring and forcing the pads to push the caliper pistons in.
  2. Make sure the crash sensor on the bulkhead is pressed in at the top, if this has tripped out it cuts the supply to the ECU and fuel pump, it will crank but never start.52093256-2202-4FE4-ADBE-B0525E9F5AB2.heic
  3. It does so far as I know, the 10AS hasn't really changed over the years.
  4. Not really sure if you can deactivate the CDL, the info isn't really clear on that, I've changed a few settings on mine with my Nanocom but never wanted to disable the locking. I guess you could always just disconnect pins 2 & 3 of the green plug to isolate it, that would seem to be the most secure way to disable it without fear of a glitch in the 10AS inadvertently driving the lock output regardless of how it's set. Lucas 10-AS Alarm ECU Guide.pdf
  5. Usually done with a "Header block", looks like a multi-way connector that's not actually plugged into anything, all the separate wires connect together internally. Some are multi circuit where there's more than one circuit in the same block. There are quite a few around, some behind the dash and a couple in the seat box next to the engine ECU.
  6. Assuming it's a Td5 Defender, there is a shared common earth point, K108, linked to both the rear heated screen relay and the hazard warning relay, it also provides the earth connections for the radio and ABS and a few other things. K108 is mounted on the bulkhead right behind the coolant expansion bottle, worth a look there first.
  7. It depends on how it was wired with the Carling switch and whether the original timer module is still there. The original Td5 heated windscreen wiring includes a timer relay, the switch is a momentary contact type which provides a brief input to the timer to start it and activate the heater for a short period of time. If there is no timer relay fitted then either type of switch would work the same but it would ideally need to be switched via a normal relay, the screen heater takes a fair bit of current and I doubt the switch contacts would last for long. Also it's not ideal to leave the screen heater turned on for extended periods, that's why there's a timer on the original setup.
  8. Personally, I don't believe the small amount of dissolved adhesive would cause any problems when diluted by a decent amount of fuel in the tank, it's primarily a blend of hydrocarbon resins anyway and should disappear without trace. As to the backing tape, I agree that it "could" get picked up by the strainer, but I would see that as very unlikely with the filter gauze pointing down so as to speak, plus the fact that the strainer is normally far enough above the bottom of the tank to prevent stuff from getting picked up.
  9. That's just a flat battery, enough power to bring on the lights but not enough power to turn the starter which takes a huge amount more. Get it on charge for a few hours or so, (depending on what capacity charger you have,) or jump start it from another vehicle if available.
  10. The circuit diagram refers to the permanent live feed fuse as - "F30, Fuse box Satellite (P109)" so far as I can gather it's in the passenger compartment fuse box, in the single row on the left. The switched feed fuse is "F17, Fuse box passenger compartment (P101)" in the upper right row. It's also worth checking the common earth header on the bulkhead, behind the coolant expansion bottle, I've had them come loose before. https://www.lrworkshop.com/electrics/defender-2002my/fuse-boxes-earths-and-headers
  11. That gap is far too big, even with a different thickness HG ,the valve clearance should only have a minimal difference of a few thou, looks to me like there's something missing.
  12. The one in your link is the one for the Td5 models from 1999 onwards, they're held in place by the big rubber grommet round the top. If your rear tub and fuel tank are from a '99 on, then yes, I'd say it would fit.
  13. The one on the left of your picture is the driver side one (on a RHD.) Consider the alignment of the hinge pin, where it's angled to maintain the line of the pins through the upper and lower hinges, given that the upper one is above the "waist line" of the cab.
  14. Earth via handbrake cable is a real fault but it would only be a major issue when cranking the engine to start it, during normal running there won't be enough power flowing there to cause the symptoms the OP describes.
  15. I had the same reluctance to start with cranking and misfiring issue with mine recently, like yours it would sometimes flatten the battery before I could get it going. It turned out to be a fault with the starter motor, it either had worn motor brushes or a partially shorted armature, I couldn't be sure which but either way it was producing a significant amount of electrical noise when cranking and this was upsetting the crank sensor, I was getting persistent "Noisy Crank Signal" errors whenever I checked. A replacement starter motor solved it immediately for me. If you're able to park on a slope or hill, an easy way to eliminate this is to try bump starting it to see if that has any effect. Are you able to see if there are any faults logged?
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