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crwoody last won the day on December 4 2019

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About crwoody

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    Old Hand

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    Littleborough, Lancs.

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  1. I've had the same problem with my 2004 Td5 90, getting more reluctant to start, sometime running the battery flat in the process. however when it does start, it runs perfectly well. I checked with my Nanocom and found it was giving a "noisy crank signal" fault. If i parked on a slope and bump-started it, it would fire up right away but was always reluctant on the starter, hot or cold. The fix was to replace the starter motor, although it would spin over normally, I suspect the motor brushes were worn and causing sparking, enough to interfere with the crank signal, the sensor is fairly close and being electromagnetic it's susceptible to such interference. It now starts instantly on the first flick of the key, happy bunny now 😊
  2. Not necessarily, modern(ish) automotive fuses seem to have a huge overload tolerance, such that rubbing an exposed wire against a dirty or corroded metal surface can cause sufficient electrical disturbance to cause errors in the system but not pass enough current to blow a fuse, depending on what circuit it's connected to of course. Similarly, a lot of the sensor inputs into most ECU's operate at a very low power such that a minor leak to earth or to another conductor can cause some unpredictable faults, for example the intermittently self-opening tailgate on my Freelander 2 which turned out to be due to moisture inside the switch in the tailgate handle. Or, on one of my previous Td5 90's which would intermittently fail to start with one of the relays making a squealing noise, this turned out to be water ingress (again) into one of the multi-way "headers" under the driver seat box causing electrical leakage between 5V, 12V and ground.
  3. Hi and welcome. As you've already alluded to, you really need to see what fault codes are present, anything else is purely guesswork and can end up quite expensive, if it's bringing the MIL on during the fault condition this will be logged and remain in memory even after it's self cleared. Even if the in-tank fuel pump isn't running, the engine will still start and run, albeit with reduced power, there is sufficient "lift" from the injectors to allow this. If the main relay under the seatbox or the crash sensor on the bulkhead drops out, the engine will stop but won't put the MIL on, it's the same as switching the ignition off and not seen as an error. If the crank sensor failed, that would cause the engine to stop but it's very unlikely to be "self-healing" by cycling the ignition. It's always worth checking for any add-on aftermarket alarm wiring or mystery boxes of any kind, these can often make fault finding notoriously difficult. as I said before, getting a code reader on there must be the first priority.
  4. Black / Red from transducer to speedo head.
  5. Looks to me like that's been waiting to let go for some time, the amount of rust and wear suggests it not seen any fresh grease in a long while.
  6. Deffo sounds to me like a head gasket failure. They can fail in different places, between different chambers/cavities. Yours sounds like it's failed between a combustion chamber and water jacket allowing combustion pressure into the the cooling system, the water pump doesn't really generate all that much pressure.
  7. You should be able to tell by the sound of it if you set the alarm off, it's a fairly distinct, (though not all that loud,) sound compared to the feeble car horn noise if that's what's fitted. In any case you should observe the correct procedure for disconnecting the battery anyway. It should be in the handbook.
  8. If the engine is not getting hot enough it would suggest to me that you may have a faulty (failed open) thermostat. There shouldn't be any significant flow of coolant through the radiator until the engine is hot enough to cause the 'stat to open, so whether you have a running fan or not should make little or no difference. The Td5 engine doesn't seem to generate much heat until it's being worked fairly hard, so in stop/start slow traffic conditions from a cold start, you won't get much heat out of it anyway. Maybe the Diesel heater idea as above would be a better solution.
  9. Only 9.5V at the dipped headlights is very poor, where were you connecting the meter earth? I you have a secure ground connection, it's most likely a sign of the switch failing or possibly poor connections at the fuses. I would in any case add relays to take the filament current off the switch contacts for both dipped and main, I looked at adding relays in the dash myself but ended up taking the easier option of fitting a Boomslang loom instead and wired the power feed direct to the battery, (via a fuse,) rather than the alternator, it really makes little or no difference.
  10. On all Td5 models, both head lights are wired from the stalk switch contacts but then split through separate fuses which is why they appear separately at the front, there are no relays on any of them. The commercially available wiring and relay looms are designed to take the connections to drive the relays from one side only, and then put out a parallel feed to both lights from the same relay, hence only 2 relays, one for dipped and one for main. The wiring as supplied is just long enough to reach with the relays mounted in the N/S inner wing behind the headlight. As for the light bar, a 30A fuse would be enough but I would be inclined to add a dedicated separate relay and switch.
  11. Corrosion, wrong nuts fitted in the past, wear due to loose nuts?
  12. crwoody

    Dab aerial

    I'm just using the original OEM aerial with a splitter, works well for me.
  13. It should be on the front edge of the seat box, between the passenger seat and cubby box. It’s wiring goes through a grommet in the cover plate beneath the cubby box and disappears into the loom above the transfer box.
  14. I would suggest that what you're seeing on the rev counter is the result of a (possible) problem rather than the cause, as with the crank sensor, if it works normally otherwise I'd say it's not at fault. Perhaps it's a switching glitch from the glow plug relay being activated? Has it only just started doing it? I added a rev counter to my Td5 90 (2004,) not a LR supplied one but from Smiths, https://www.smiths-instruments.co.uk/landrover It looks very similar to the original VDO one and connects the same, when I turn on the ignition, the needle goes to full-scale then returns to zero, some kind of self check thing I assume, I wonder if yours is doing something similar?
  15. By a strange coincidence, I've just been looking at my crank sensor as mine is often slow to start, hot cold or otherwise, it will crank for some time before it fires but then runs perfectly fine, I am getting a "noisy crank signal" error on the Nanocom. Just for reference I checked the resistance between the signal wires at the ECU and found a resistance of 1.24KΩ which I would guess to be about right given the type of sensor. If the engine runs normally I wouldn't really expect the sensor to be failing, they usually either work properly or not at all, (about 1KΩ or open circuit,) and the engine won't run if it's failed. I find I can bump-start the engine if I'm parked on a slope and it starts immediately, so this suggests to me that the starter motor could be interfering with the signal, possibly due to sparking caused by worn brushes, or even a failing battery. It's also worth checking the security of the earth connections, battery to chassis/engine and the second one from chassis to engine near the starter.
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