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Everything posted by crwoody

  1. There is a pressure sensor on the AC system, so I'm guessing that it would inhibit the clutch in the event of low refrigerant pressure, specially since the gas also carries the lubricant for the AC compressor. No gas = no oil = knackered pump.
  2. I use a Nanocom Evo for my Td5 90 and Disco 2 for the engine ECU, ABS and alarm, I'm not so sure what use it would be on a 300Tdi though, other than for the 10AS. There might be a simpler/cheaper alternative for just the 10AS. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly.
  3. Depending on year and configuration, if yours is 2002 onwards and is equipped with ABS, there should be a yellow/pink wire from ECU pin 19 going to the ABS unit that you could tap into.
  4. The power to the ECU is linked to the inertia switch so as to kill the engine in the event of a crash, so yes it does need to be linked.
  5. I fitted a pair of horns that I took off a VW Golf scrapper, I had to make a bracket for them to fit in place of the original single horn but well worth it. I also added a relay to switch the power directly from the battery. Just be aware that if you're fitting salvaged or new conventional horns, the back, (mounting screw) of the horn vibrates so they need to be mounted on a flexible strip to work properly, if you mount them onto a rigid surface or bracket, they won't sound at all well.
  6. I wouldn't risk sunflower oil on my Stihl, I doubt that it's lubricating qualities are up to the job. If I had to use a substitute I had to hand temporarily, I'd use a heavy gear oil, EP90 for example. The proper stuff is sticky but also thixotropic, it sticks to the bar and chain without being thrown off by the centrifugal force
  7. The indicator relay is designed to flash quickly in response to insufficient current being drawn on the circuit, usually caused by a failed bulb, if you're sure the bulbs are all OK I'd check on the earth returns from the indicator lamps, particularly the rear ones, it could be they're getting a return via the tail lamp filaments which wouldn't allow enough current to operate the relay properly.
  8. I'm not 100% sure about the Puma models, but on the earlier Defenders that light is also linked to the handbrake switch, it's contact closes to ground when the lever is lifted, it could be that the switch it out of line or damaged or the wire is trapped somewhere and intermittently shorting.
  9. There's only a single supply fuse for the 10AS unit, (fuse 7 under the seat box,) so if the immobiliser is working that suggests it's ok. Immobiliser, interior light control and central locking are all functions provided by the 10AS but it needs to be programmed accordingly, (via the OBD port,) they can lose their configuration or get corrupted, mostly I think due to the battery being disconnected, you'll need to find someone locally with a Nanocom or similar to set it up. I don't believe the spare connector has any bearing on the issue.
  10. There should be no 12v feed to any of the lights with the switch in the off position, the ground sides of all the lights are permanently connected to chassis ground and rely on a positive feed from the switch to operate. Sounds to me like you may have a faulty dim/dip relay with an internal short circuit, I'd start by disconnecting the dim/dip resistor, on the later cars it's mounted inside the front RH wheel arch, I'm not so sure of the location on the earlier cars. I think most UK car owners have already disabled the dim/dip for reliability reasons as they're not a legal requirement over here, not sure how you stand with that Stateside.
  11. Badly slipping fan belt when wet, causing poor coolant circulation.
  12. Looks to me like the original mounting point for the bonnet release lever bracket.
  13. I suppose it smells a bit oily but not strong. Looks far too clean to be engine oil.
  14. Is this any help, factory fitted pin switch with bracket to operate it fitted to bolts on centre hinge.
  15. Looks like diesel to me, or maybe screenwash, can you smell it?
  16. Looks to me like it could be simple aluminum corrosion, if it's come from a farm environment with acidic animal waste getting splashed about, that could do it. To be honest though if that is the case, I'd be more concerned about the condition of the chassis.
  17. If you're not too far from Halifax, it's worth giving Michael at Adamson Independent Automotive a call. He fitted my 2004 90 with a new Clutchfix heavy duty clutch, pressure plate and release bearing, (DMF and cylinder not required.) I had to leave it with him for a couple of days but ended up very pleased with a job well done for £385 all in.
  18. Ah right, often more than meets the eye when there's "history". Just a case of plod on through then, having said that, there should be no issue with wiring direct and isolating the original wires as you've suggested.
  19. I don't know what vehicle yours is but on the Td5 there a light green/black which feeds the washer pump directly from the switch, also connected to a feed from the wiper delay relay, then from the pump, there is a black earth wire connected via one of the headers. My guess from the way you describe the intermittent nature is the earth may have a bad connection, it's pretty unlikely that a wire in the harness would just break.
  20. crwoody

    TD5 alarm

    The Lucas 10AS alarm ECU is a generic unit used in a number of different cars, (Defender, Discovery 2, some Rovers) and as such is fully configurable with the right diagnostic tool. So yes, the interior light operation, locking and remote locking actions and alarm functionality can all be controlled via a Nanocom or similar. For example, I've got mine set so that the volumetric alarm is armed when locking with the key fob but not so if I lock it with the key, this is to prevent false triggers if I leave the dogs in the car and/or a window open. There's a lot of useful info here - https://nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/preview/lucas-10as-alarm-nanocom-evolution I don't know of any current group buys going on just now, the last one I could find was about 2 years ago on Defender2.net
  21. Did you replace the pressure plate as well? I was having problems with my clutch slipping recently but on fitting a new one the old friction plate was hardly worn, it was slipping due to the springs in the pressure plate not applying sufficient clamping pressure.
  22. As I remember it they screw into tapped holes in the upright ends of the square section bar but didn't quite line up with the rivet holes, it was easy enough to drill the extra holes to suit with careful measuring, then once the top plate was lined up and screwed down, the holes for the rivets can be drilled.
  23. I did mine a few months ago, the hardest bit was cutting down either side from the top, really just in terms of accessibility, I ended up using a combination of an angle grinder, "sabre" saw and jigsaw to get in there and to cut the curve profile reasonably accurately, you don't need to be all that precise though because the angled piece that goes over the top covers the top inch or so of the cut edge. A decent riveter helps too. I also removed all the seats to make access easier.
  24. If the steering is stiff at the same point of rotation on each turn of the steering wheel, I'd say it's most likely a damaged steering box.
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