v8Dougie

Hi all, Sorry to resurect an old thread, but have the opportunIty to purchase one of these ex military power steering boxes, and wondered if anyone had any advice about what to look for or check? It works fine aparently, comes with all pipes and brackets except the pump. Can I use any power steering pump on my v8 engine to power it? I assume there is not a service kit widely available for it, but anybody know anyone who might supply one? Any workshop manuals which would cover it etc? As you can tell, any help gratefully received! Cheers

Can I ask, a silly question maybe, but is it best to have the engine running (but probably not at fully operating temperature) when pressure washing. My thoughts are that it will then be more resilient to heat, and if it should die during the clean, you might have an idea of where you pointed the water! Just a thought!

Just had a look on that website but cannot see the appropriate unit for a Disco 1, is yours a D2 or D1. Does the D1 have a diagnostics port?

Niamh, you are a star! The car has been off the road so long I forgot about the ABS light doing that. The battt did go totally flat, new one now. Can I buy necessary equipment to clear the code myself. If so how much and where from? We are not planning on parting with the car so happy to pay more to buy the equiopment so we have it in the future rather than pay a diagnosis man. That just leaves the air con fans... This forum is amazing! Cheers

Just thought I would let you all know that I have just finished putting the engine back together, and it fired up on first turn of the key and ran smoother and quieter than before. Not able to take it for a test drive as need to put the track rods back on...can't get the old ball joints off grrr. However I have a few other niggles I need to turn my attention to now, none of which were issues before it over heated. The ABS light is on The airbag light is on The air con cooling fans come on when tHe ignition is on, and stay on constantly even when air con button is off and heater fan is off. Any ides on these points? The wiring which runs along the top of the head to the sensor was damaged during the over heat and was "fixed" by the garage. What is tHat sensor and could that wiring be at fault? Any help greatly appreciated as I am stumped!

No, he over paid massively!! But I would be interested in buying one...nudge nudge wink wink Seriously...I am looking for one, PM me if interested

Hi, thought I might jump on this just quickly and use some of your knowledge...what would your thoughts be on using an overdrive on a v8 converted series 3 109? Currently running a fully sync 4 speed standard gearbox and transfer unit. I want a 5th gear and this seems an easier option to making a LT77 fit. Cheers

So I can hear the sound I suppose, also if I remember correctly when I looked it looked like a convenient place to exit, I figure that the exhaust does not need to be any longer, so might as well exit there and it saves negotiating any axles. I gather it is guaranteed for life, I do not know if there is any limitation, so I assume as long as the vehicle is in existence.

Hi all, I have a 1971 Series 109 with a v8 conversion, currently with a transit exhaust cobbled on. I am wanting a four into two stainless steel exhaust more suited to the engine. Further requirements are that it gives a good amount of low down grunt, sounds nice when working the engine/accelerating but quiet when at speed. Also want the exhaust to be well hidden high up to avoid damage when off roading, and think I want twin side exits just behind the rear side doors, in front of the rear wheels, coming out of the body work (hopefully the picture helps, and yes I was stuck, but managed to get out eventually!) I contacted longlife exhausts, www.longlife.co.uk and spoke to Tony Banks from the Leeds depot, explained all my requirements and he said he could design and fit a bespoke exhaust in stainless steel with a lifetime guarantee exactly to my requirements for £399+VAT. Despite me thinking I was being quiet pickie with my requirements, he said he gets a number of people through the door each day wanting exactly the same. My questions are: Any further questions to ask? What grade stainless steel is best? Is my request for 4 into 2 exhaust system a good one for the engine? Anybody else used longlife, any good or not? How does the price seem? Any help gratefully received. Cheers

Well didn't realise it was as rear as some of you say, so agree it would be a shame to butcher it to fit my series. I am sure I will find/make one fit. Cheers

Not sure on value, but would be interested in purchasing it if it would fit my series? I have a 3.5 v8 fitted and not sure if the series winch would work, but I assume this one would as long as I can mount it. Cheers

Hi, cheers for the response, however the garage already skimmed, pressure tested and refit the head with new head gasket set after it over heated, does that mean they did not do it correctly? Do you reckon the piston rings have still failed, or could the head gasket not fitting properly have caused the lumpy running, burning oil and no compression on cylinder 2? I assume now I have it at this stage it is worth changing pistons and bearings anyway, but wonder if I have any scope for getting some of the £1200 back off the garage? They gave me it back not working saying it would be another £1000 to get it fixed! The head Hadley does look in good condition, so what could cause it to fail? Cheers again!

Okay guys, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but have finally got round to starting on stripping the engine again after our Xmas break. I have taken the head off, and on first novice inspection the cylinders look okay, no scoring or cracks. Cylinder two was more oily than the others which matches the compression test, and continues to suggest a piston ring. I have a few photos and hoped someone could help me out as best you can to see if all looks normal. First image (1148) shows some black marking at the bottom of the picture on the cylinder head, this did not come off when cleaned with a cloth, and looks a bit suspicious to me, is it normal? It is not on the other end of the head, this is also showing the head above cylinders 1 & 2, so wondering if it could be related to a loss of pressure? Image 1135 shows cylinder number 2 which has significantly more oil smears around it than the others. There seems to be very minimal wear at the top of the cylinder, no real step, and the bores look clean. Image 1144 (last one) shows the block after cleaning, I do have more picies, so if you spot anything let me know and i can upload a zoomed one. Finally, next steps! I am going to take out the pistons, but am I best replacing just the rings or the whole lot? How easy are rings to fit? If it is easier to attach a new piston (with rings attached by manufacturer) to the old conrod I might just go for that option. Also am I advisable to change all the big and small end bearings? Sorry for all the questions, I have loads of knowledge on cars, but first time I have stripped an engine myself! Cheers in advance for any help. Phil

Bent conrod, from over heating the engine, is that not a bit odd? Does that give all the same symptoms of failed piston rings? Any suggestions on best order of attack to get the engine up and running again? Reluctant to fit a replacement engine as this one was very good and "low" mileage at only 90k and has already had a new top end. Happy to spend the same amount as the price of a fully reconditioned engine doing this one up, at least I know it is done properly then!

Thought I would give you all an update as promised...got the new glow plugs fitted and turned it over, started after only a second or two but ran a bit lumpy with plenty of smoke out the back. Drove it around a little and it isn't too bad, but smokes more and more, taken the dip stick out when running and oil is bubbling up and flowing out of the tube, so I assume a piston ring is gone. So looks like they need doing now. Any thing I should look out for/do whilst changing the piston rings? Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the replies guys, even though the potential news is not good! I have been out today and checked all the valve clearances, and they were all out bar two. I have set them to 0.08inch as per the manual. Then tried turning it over and it sounded happier, but still didn't start. Then checked the glow plugs, and all but one of them had no continuity and were not working. Hopefully that will make a difference. It is not looking good though by the sounds of your comments. Will let you know.

My father overheated his 300tdi on the motorway, didn't notice until he totally lost power. A local garage stripped it down and sent the head off which was badly bent. It has now been refitted with new head gasket set, skimmed head, new water pump ,new timing belt and new injector wiring as the original ones melted. The garage couldn't get it running and diagnosed that a couple of injectors had gone, they have now been changed as well. They finally got it running, but said that the turbo had gone as it was loosing oil, does that sound possible? I have ordered a new turbo (nice uprated kit from Allard Turbo Sport), but before they fitted it, they decided to do a compression test as it was running lumpy and found that it had no compression at all on cylinder 2. I now have it at home as the bill was getting too large, any ideas what it could be? Any help would be useful please as I do not really want to have to strip down everything I paid the garage to do! Cheers in advance Phil

Thought I would update you all, however do not know where the water came from still, assume it was just ingress! Managed to get it started, was a fuel problem, went off road yesterday and it was fine, but think I will do as Timmy511 says and get the solenoid off and strip it. Cheers all for your help

Right then, been out today and tried looking for the drain hole on the bellhousing, but cannot see one, anyone got one they could take a photo of for me?! Should it be at the very bottom, or is it on a vertical edge? Also there is a plate towards the leading edge of the bellhousing, it is mounted vertically, and is held on with a number of bolts, but looks like it has got some sort of instant gasket helping it out - this is where some of the rusty water is coming from, could I try taking it off to let it drain? What is it for!?! I double checked the coolant and that has still not shifted, I have had a little look above the solenoid for a core plug but it is not apparent, is there anything specific I should be looking for? The solenoid is also just clicking when trying to start it. When my father was here, I went underneath with a hammer and after some persuasion it clicked in and the starter operated, I wandered if there was anything I could do to help it out? I noticed that there was a little hole at the bottom of the solenoid casing, and that is where some of the water is coming from, could I stick the straw from my WD40 can in there to see if that helps?! Or would I be better using some proper electrical contact spray stuff? Cheers again for any help!

Hi all, I am not mad, and assume there should not be water in the bellhousing? After my Series III 1971 v8 converted landy had been stood for a while, about 2-3 months (on a light up hill slope), when I tried to start it there was water initially dripping from a the solenoid on the starter motor, then as I got my father to turn it over, noticed that it was coming from the bottom of the bellhousing where it meets the engine! The water is a rusty brown colour, and there seems to be a fair amount of it. The coolant has not gone down at all. Anyone got any ideas where it has come from? When parked up it was running a treat, just having returned from a Scout camp whilst towing one of the leaders cars back - who accidentally visited a ditch! Anyone any idea what the best thing to do is? I think it might just be water ingress from the heavy rain we had, so was just thinking about persisting with trying to get it started, and hope it drys out? Cheers in advance!