v8Dougie

Hi all, bit of back ground, have a 2003 D2 v8 which I have never had the air con working on. When I bought the car, it was sold with a replacement air con pipe, the infamous one which goes through the slam panel to the dryer, as I was told this was leaking. This replacement pipe was fitted during an engine change, and the system regassed. I was told it was good, holding vacuum and pressure, however the system would still not work. That was some 6 months ago, and now it is warm I need it fixed! Did a bit of fault finding today, compressor fuse and relay okay. Fan relay okay but 40amp fuse blown, replaced fuse and bridged relay but fan still wont operate, checked voltage to fan and all okay, couple of smacks with a rubber hammer and the fan tries to turn but can't, so I have a seized fan, one thing to change. Carried on and checked the voltage to the compressor, nothing. Removed the connector on the pressure switch behind the front grill, bridged the connector loom side and the compressor kicked in fine. Came on and off with the ECON switch on the heater controls too. So I figure it indicates either no gas in the system, or faulty pressure switch. Can someone confirm if this is just a high pressure switch, or both high and low. If the latter thought it needed three wires? Also, if just a high pressure switch then either the pressure is too high (unlikely as system not working!) or the switch is faulty. Any way of testing the switch? I assume it should be closed when it is happy, allowing the signal to pass through it. I am happy to regas the system, but don't really want to do that if I have then have to drain again to change the pressure switch. Any help much appreciated!!

Thanks on it already! Fingers crossed!

Here I am Simon, interested in selling me your cassette?!

Good enough for me! I have put the feelers out for a unit but only found them on the Bay for around £30, any suggestions where I might pick one up for the much more reasonable sounding price you mentioned?!!? Not sure where the nearest LR breaker is near me (Leeds). Cheers

Thing is, when it was in for diagnosis, they read the codes, cleared them, and the light came straight back on again. They had to contact LR to find out the code pointed towards a resistor having failed. I asked if it could be the cassette but they said it would have said if it was. Does that make sense? Anyone know of anyone up in Leeds area who might be able to diagnose the system for me? Not sure if I trust the garage! Will need services anyway if I am going to change either ECU or steering wheel cassette.

Thanks Snagger. Take it from that you think the ECU is not at fault? Seeing as I can get a known good ECU for just £15, would it be worth swapping to test anyway? Am I right in thinking that if I disconnect battery, remove ECU, install replacement, and reconnect battery, IF the ECU is at fault then the airbag light will automatically go out (assuming the new ECU does not have a fault?) as oppose to having to have the system diagnosed again? Hope that makes sense! Also, how much am I looking for a steering wheel cassette?

Nope! Sorry, none whatsoever! Light stays on until you have moved a bit and it all works fine. Makes all the lovely horrible crunches and grinds that a primitive ABS system should when used, but works a treat. Car has been off roaded a number of times as well so has been used!

Will be interesting to see what bits mine has then, as mine is a '95 300TDI ES as well!!

Excellent info thanks. I will have a look this weekend for the crash sensors and also lift the cubby and see what is under there. What age is yours and is it a 300tdi?

Thanks that is useful information and a good start. Are airbag ECUs just plug and play or do they need divorcing from the donor car and coding to the new one. Also where is it!

Hi all. The air bag light recently came on, half of it is solid on all the time, other half flashes for the first 5 mins, then stays solid on (in case that makes any difference) I have taken it to Adventure 4x4 in Leeds and they read the error informing me that there was a resistor failure in the circuit. They advised that there are a number of resistors, and due to the simple diagnosis system, were unable to determine which one it would be. They therefore said that the whole loom would have to be replaced. Anybody had this issue before? Are they correct? How much is a loom and how easy is it to replace? Many thanks in advance Cheers Phil

Sorry I can't help but I have exactly the same thing with mine! I am after someone up Leeds way if possible. Good luck with your search, feed back if you find somewhere good.

Gazzar, can I do one with you! I bought a box to strip and rebuild back in April, but stripped it and it has been sitting in the conservatory ever since! I have removed the one off my Landy now, just waiting to find time, and know how to finish the job. Have you started yet? I am ready(ish) to go when you are, have a list of a few bits I know I need just need to get round to it! Cheers

Hi, can I just ask, do you need to change radius arms or prop shafts or anything else when doing a 2" lift (except flexi brakes). If not how high can you go before needing to change more stuff? Cheers Phil

Thanks Les. Reading my post back it was not terribly clear! I have a feeling that the big clunk and the biting point changing very quickly is the cause of the slip. I will check the items as Les suggested and see. However I am changing the gearbox in the next couple of weeks, and plan on changing the clutch at the same time (unless pristine) can anybody advise what clutch would be best and where to get one from? It is a 3.5 v8 on carbs, connected to a standard series 3 gearbox (the same gearbox is going back in after a rebuild) Cheers Phil

Hi all, got a 109 Series 3 1971 with a 3.5 v8 installed. have had the vehicle for 3 years and the clutch has always slipped. when first started on a day (from cold) the slip is hardly noticable, but once it is up to operating temperature it gets really bad. can still drive, but easily slips in all gears if you are not very gentle. I have changed the slave cylinder and clutch fluid, as the cylinder was knackered. just after it was bled the biting point changed from right at the top of the peddle, to half way on its travel (as you would expect) however after just a couple of miles, big clunck and biting point went back to top of peddle travel. has been like that ever since. Something tells me there is something wrong mechanically, but have been told my symptoms sound like oil contamination, anyone any suggestions?! Cheers in advance!

Hi, I can only speak from experience of my 1971 Series III and 1970 Austin Mini, but hopefully it will help. There is no requirement for hazards, rear fog lamp or reversing lamp, if not originally fitted to the vehicle when new (which they were not I believe), however any lamps which are fitted must be in the correct location and work properly. Again if seat belts are fitted they need to be safe and legal and work correctly. Rear seat belts were not a requirement until sometime in the 80's I think, not sure when fronts came in. But I know I could have got away with lap belts in the front of mine, as that was standard back then. You can come into issues if the vehicle has the mounting points, but you have not got belts, but depends on how vigilant the MOT tester is (more of an issue with reshelled mini's than landies I think) Finally, spare wheel, again if it is present it should be legal, but unlikely they will fail you for it. And as far as I know it is not a requirement at all. Hope that helps, and it is correct! Cheers

Hi all, I have a Series III 109 with a v8 engine in. It is a v8 out of an ex-police riot Sherpa van from the mid 80's I think, with Stromberg carbs and electronic dizzy and otherwise standard I believe. Does any body know what bhp and torque figures it might be giving out? Or more likely what it was giving out when new? I assume that it must be a similar engine to that in the 109 Stage 1 and the early Range Rover and early 110 and Defenders, but I know that bhp outputs were altered for different vehicles any way of finding out (other than rolling road!) also anyone know how they altered the bhp output for the different engines? Reason for all this, is partly interest, but also I am trying to make a decision on gearing for the vehicle. I have already fitted 3.54 diffs, and have decided to stick with the series gearbox so am wanting to know whether to leave as is, fit a high ratio transfer box from Ashcroft Transmission or see if I can fit a higher fourth gear. I could do with finding the nearest stock vehicle so I can use Ashcrofts very useful ratio calculator to assist me. Many thanks in advance, hope I have given people enough info! Cheers

Thought it would be nice to let you all know the end of the story/saga! The Disco is back on the road, fully MoT'd taxed and working great. After fixing all the problems, air con fans was a result of the garage putting the sensors on the wrong way round, found there was a water leak. Diagnosed to be the "P" gasket. The local dealer thought it may actually have been the cause of the initial overheat. Annoying that a £4 gasket caused all these problems, but hey ho. Thanks for everyone's help throughout this, would have been much more difficult not to mention the expense if it were not for you all! Cheers again Phil

Larna86, any chance of those photos? Sorry to pester, but none the wiser still and want to get a move on with installing the steering! Cheers in advance, and if anybody else could help me select the correct power steering pump for my vehicle would be much appreciated! Cheers

Hi, thanks for your input, and from one newby to another, welcome! Could ask what engine you are running, and therefore also what pump you are using and how you have mounted it? pictures would be grat if possible! Cheers

Bit of help (already!) I am short the pump. I have a 3.5 carb v8 engine from a LDV Sherpa from mid 80's, anybody know which pump will fit and where I would mount it to? I can get a power steering pump from a 1986 Range Rover 3.5 v8, I assume this will fit? But will I need any brackets etc? Cheers

Got some photos. I have high res ones but cannot upload them, so PM me your email address if you want a more detailed photo. The details on the stamp are as follows: ZF Made in Germany 8051 995 107 212164 1286 If anyone can shed any light on what these might mean that would be nice. Cheers

Yes it was, sorry looks like I pipped everyone to it, but lucky for me I guess! Pictures will follow soon, hopefully when I get home tonight. I shall make sure I get as much detail and as many pictures as I can, because I am aware this is a very rare unit. Hopefully it will be everything I hope it to be, and save my fathers elbows when trying to drive the Landy! Cheers all

Just picked it up, £250 private sale, amazing value if you ask me. all in working order, but with no pump, but believe can use any land rover pump. It is a ZF make, so shall contact them, but the seller said it did not leak and had very little play. came off an amazing little 88inch, with defender axles, parabolic springs with dislocation brackets at the front, very impressive show of engineering. I shall keep you updated on how it is fitted and all works, thanks or he help. hopefully my steering components after the box should be fine just replaced the lot, relay, ball joints, damper, bushes, bearings and swivles, so fingers crossed! Cheers again!