Boothy
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Posts posted by Boothy
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Peer down the oil filler hole and make sure that your on the right cycle or you will be a full 180 degrees out, check that the rocker/tappet nearest the inlet port on no1 cylinder has just shut and follow the timing marks so that when rotating in a clockwise direction (rachet on bottom pulley) the timing marks are just about to line up to TDC after a bit of a turn (possible up to 90*) then you will be sure that you are on the firing stroke and not the exhuast one.
If you can not see the inlet tappet follow the exhaust one because immeadiatly after it has closed the piston lowers with inlet open and then raises with both valves shut (comperssion)
now this is the time we would like the spark, just think it through it is quite easy really. If that don't work rocker box cover off I'm afraid.
Jab something down to carefully turn the oil pump to the correct position and here we go.
Good luck.
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I know,
you want me to tell you ???
Its, its, its, a 1.2 litre Fiat Punto Turbo unit .
Sorry Carl, sort of couldn't help myself.
But take credit where it's due "it's lookin good baby"
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Gents,
Just do a few checks as I didn't to save a lot of time and frustration and changes to my settings which could have amplified problems,
I trapped the air vacuum pipe refitting the seat one time, MAP on the screen showed it up straight away, it was miles out and caused it to flood like mad,.
I also had a rich running problem whan the air inlet temp sensor went duff, cold engine coolant temp was something like 18*C but air temp was -12*C
or something similar, result it thinks it winter and chucks some fuel in, but it was on the screen if I'd had looked properly,
Check every injector plug for dirty OR spead crimps causing intermittant or no contact which I've just had probably due to the fact that I've spent 2 years charging around in deep water contaminating all these plugs and connections, and then had a problem and then kept pulling the plugs on and off which in turn will probably not help the crimp spread and could easily introduce new faults,
Exactly the same problem with the plug leads, ex scrapyard ones (these will do to try it and we will get some better one's soon) keep pulling them on and off to check if plugs are firing and to see how sooty the plugs are and hey ho, ones gone duff on you, now we have got another problem,
Take this tip from Boothy, put kettle on, plug in laptop and connect, drink tea without engine running, look at screen do the temps look about right for the ambient temprature around you ?, check all these connections aforementioned , it will take about 10 minutes, does the manifold vacuum look about right when it starts ?, hopefully and possibly you will kick yourself for dropping that silly b*****k that we have all dropped in our enthusiasm to start start datalogging.
Get kettle on now and don't rush it !!!!
Good luck
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Without getting into a war can I chip a couple of observations in,
1, What if the secondary coil is centre tapped ??....
2, Following my recent truama and endless problems resolving a very bad missfire a lot of the previous posts makes a lot of possibilties possible,,which doesn't help,,
3, Tommorrow (Sunday) I aim to spend the day datalogging at a play day and will remove a lead, a pair of leads, insulate a lead to a near infinite level (as best as I can) without shocking myself, unlike our forefathers on this forum, who kept me smiling for hours after "burning his whiskers" so to speak on a coil pack,,,,can you remember Nige,,,,
4, Boothys brother, AKA brother Boothy is a 30 years experienced Ford master vehicle technician and when questioned about this subject by myself laughed and replied roughly, " that with wasted spark technology a few oddities occur, one being that a single cylinder missfire due to plug going duff, does and can happen, but if a lead goes H.R. than the pair of cylinders on same coil pack will usually drop out because the return loop has been lost", their usual Ford fix and go answer is to change leads and plugs and it cures it.
The fast fix has beed proven time and time again when customers are paying ridiculous rates for worshop times, we as fiddlers can play all day at our leisure but if you were paying £60 an hour or so you would like the fast fix I'm sure.
Good luck
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The good B&B I take it is my house again ??, I prep the neighbours ready, more the merrier.
Well this one will take some thinking about it's all of 4 fields away from my house, I wonder if my missus will bring us a cup of tea if I peep my horn ???
Erm,,,erm,,,,erm,,,, go on then,,, I will do it,,,, bring it on
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I wouldn't get to dizzy about what you can winch with a limited mount to the chassis or you could find yourself twisting things somewhat.
A good strong winch mount spreads quite a lot of the loading around, at the end of the day the chassis is normally only 3mm box section when new.
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Its a big like Marge or Butter, Strawberry or Rasberry jam, Bitter or Mild, whatevers in the cupboard is what goes on mine, does it matter?????
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Just as a quick add on to attempt to shed some light, Megasquirt doesn't need it, so on my MS I have just left the pipe in place to the ABP (to idle to blank it off) and thats where it stays.
Good luck
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This is just a guess or an unfounded theory from memory, but I thought it was airbypass and airbypass only, the idea is that when you take your foot of the throttle on stopping or slowing is that the throttle butterfly shuts, restricting air to the inlet but the engine can still be running at quite some revs, this is hard especially in an auto and even more so when using the servo to regain any sort of manifold equilibrian and therefore the airbypass opens to allow an amount of air to enter just to stop the dip and let it fall evenly to tickover, this is governed or sensed by the pulses to say the vehicle is in motion from the reed switch attached to the speedo housing.
This sensor is also what is used as a speed limiter to restict the top speed of the vehicle to 112mph (I think) on the classic RR's, and if I remember righly the old racers to remove the switch and open the butterfly slighly toovercome the effect.
This could be b******t but I sure its at least half accurate, please don't call me for it.
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When Ifirst put an 3.9Efi hotwire in my trialling truck it was a complete pain in tha arse for constantly cutting out when I dropped off the throttle especially when braking, this was diagnosed as not having the bypass valve connected viathe speed sensor on the rear of the box and when braking I was totally losing the manifold vacuum, connected it up hey presto problem solved.
Now I've a bigger motor with the auto and Megasquirt and I haven't got it connected although its still on the back of the Plenum chanber, but I have no cutting out etc issues, so answer is don't know.
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Perhaps if you looked where you were going and not at the dashboard it may not be such a problem,
and when have you and Rob gone fast enough to make anything hot ????
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I actually am quite friendly with most ofthe neighbors but its all nice open plan and deathly quiet round here, there are a lot of retired professional people, ex bank managers and insurance brokers, you know the type I mean, the golfersetc, and I sometimes get that feeling that I must be annoying them somewhat because nobody as such fiddles except me, I dread tuning my Megaquirted V8 because I always have that feeling someone is about to complain but don't really know what my standing are, I may be way within my rights to pursue my hobby, I just don't know.
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Whats the dog an Elephant hound,????
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If I live in a private house in a private road with a private driveway leading to my garage and work on my Landrover in my garage, can neighbor/s complain about noise etc, especially if running an engine, revving it perhaps but not stupidly, but at resonable times i.e, after say 10.30am and before 8.00pm ?????
Its not happened but I just wondered does anybody know what is acceptable, information previous to a complaint if one occurs could be a handy tool, you know an answer on the spot, somebody on here will definitly of had a d^^k for a neighbor.
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Well here's the update, after a lot of testing, I'm hopeing to have solved it but may have to wait a wee while,
1, Without shadow of a doubt I have had a completely electrically duff injector, problem is I may always have had it from the rebuild,
2, I have dirtied other injector plugs following repeated dunks in deep water and may have introduced intermittant faults, this may have been a major contributry factor, these have beenproperly cleaned and refitted with lashings of silicon grease in the plugs,
3, During the rooting/diagnostic process I accidentally pulled of the MAP vacuum pipe, this will not happen again it is now an unbeliavebly tight fit,
4, Sparkplug leads were checked with the plugs out in fresh air, this is not the perfect test as under load conditions they may breakdown and not deliver a adequate spark, plugs leads have susequently been renewed,
5, Being a big clumbsy sod I stripped the thread on No 4 clyinder last night and are currently waiting for a mate to call and helicoil it with the head in situ before re-testing, the plug was still clean but soaked with fuel when we took it out, following the new lead and subseqent explosion and flame, smoke, noise etc when it blew out I can only presume it is now firing and squirting, shat myself,
6, Before blowing the plug out of the head, the tickover had shot up by over 350 rpm without any adjustments, leading me to think the injector/s may have made a vast difference to tickover fuelling and has always ran a bit down on possible power, and I have checked for air leaks of which there were none, but it was still missing this is the point we removed the plugs found the clean one and changed the lead, then after the plug shot we have not re-tried it,
7, The backfiring down the exhuast is being caused by the missing cylinder that is now fuelling putting fuel out into the exhuast system that is being lit from other cylinders,
8, The mate I loaned my timing light to 2 weeks ago is in hospital awaitng a Kidney scan, is stopping me from checking my timing and I wish him a speedy recovery, so I have not really been able to check the VR sensor.
I feel that after the plug is re-threaded that most of the problemswillbe cured and it will be time to start the Megaquirt settings from the start again, with datalogging etc.
Problem is with it being a competition car only and driven maybe once or twice a month off road only and usually with a 15 mph site limit some underlying ineffiencies are not really noticed as they would be with a vehicle that goes up motorways and dual carrigeways daily, and 70% of the power available from a well tuned all firing and all squirting V8 is ample and will sound well. If I was trying to beat 2 litre BMW's off from the lights every morning I may have noticed earlier.
I will keep you all posted if your still interested, and thanks for help and suggestions so far.
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Dan, lets be honest here you bought (in good faith) an old duffer power washed auto that had done a million miles, and then went on to Challenge it and it broke, suprised, no not really, get it PROPERLY reconned and join the big boys, its 100% better all round in a Challenge motor is an auto.
I will make a statement, IF I had a choice of having to have a diesel or a manual fitted to my motor, it would have to be the diesel before a manual again,
bet that suprised you didn't it pal.
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Go steady on the valve block some of the bolts actually split the block which you definitly don't want to do, put you oldest clothes on because your going to have an ATF shower and make sure you keep everthing spotless.
It's an easy enough job to do just a ball ache and messy.
Good luck
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Yep Nice one, when you say check as in sit on it with a timing light to visually see if its not jumping around, and luckily I have a removable link on the EDIS so can easily go to limp mode, with my limited knowledge it appears all steady on the laptop.
When I said I was dissing injectors with no effect, I unplugged at the same time the 2 middle injectors on the left hand bank with no audible diffence to the running on tickover, the 2 right hand ones I left alone to be honest because they're a bit harder to get to.
What I haven't done is spayed some WD40 or similar around to see if I've introduced an airleak when I've put it back together.
The think tank method is a fantastic tool, I love joint thinking it always resolves most problems.
I gave up at about 8.30 tonight, the new neighbours have a toddler and I don't want to rock the boat really, just yet.....
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The reason it more or less stoppped running Sunday was probably a mixture of the duff injector and no doubt the pipe to the ECU coming off in the middle of things, causing it to run stoopid rich and blacken up the plugs I hold my hands upand accept that.
A combination of a duff (open circuit) injector and some sh&tty connections since dipping it deep at Kirton certainly didn't help but there is I feel something else wrong.
Coolant temp last night on the screen matched exactly the mechanical gauge to the letter, but there was a difference with the air tempsensor of about 5 or 6 degrees, which I observed because the thing had sat untouched in the garage for over 24hours so I presumed they would have been very similar until obviously it had started.
I forgot to add I swapped my spare ECU over as well to see if it was a faulty, but I was fine and exactly the same missfire.
I don't thimk its in the Megasquirt but I am running short of idea's.
And Iamtotally happy allinjectors are in parrallel and are being seen by the ECU, I have also studied the fuel pressure for consistency to watch for fluctuancies of which none were seen.
Its always had a habit of poppin the exhuast (which is a straight through single box) when revved and let off, a bit of a poppy grumble that sounds well, but now its a proper backfiring which puzzles me a bit.
Maps one you sent me Nige a while a go and was left untouched, I've no stick here to swap it of my old laptop (serial port) but will bring one or two home from work tomorrow and will ping it you, this ones USB only and I need another lead.
Thought the "Megasquirt mayhem" would wake you up.
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For a few weeks now my 4.2ish V8 has not been a happy chappie and has been a bit down on power and not as responsive but hey ho its a challenge only vehicle and hasn't caused massive issues, and was due a rebuild closed season this winter.
Its had a habit of late of fouling up plugs and not revving quite so cleanly as it was, but Sunday at West Harptree doing the Howlin Wolf it was a case of "no go" stick it on the trailer and take it home for an early bath, bittery gutted after a 460 mile round trip.
Whilst I was there Sunday I changed the plugs again for a new set (NGK at 1mm Nige) but was surprised when 3 and 6 were squeaky clean and the rest heavily sooted. So change the coil packs and introduce the spare one, rotate them, then start on the spare leads, check the injector plugs, get very hot hands, get totally frustrated, get knotted and take it home its now worse by some margin and will hardly run.
When home today checked with the lap top what and nothing appeared amiss except for the MAP which came down to me being clumbsy and knocking the vacuum pipe off whilst rooting with the injector plugs probably.
So checking the plugs by removing the leads from the coilpacks didn't prove anything really but showed all were sparking when it got near to coil pack, the 2 clean plugs didn't change the tone of the engine the rest did.
When metering the injectors it became apparant one was completely duff and needed changing, so stripdown and all out, cleaned the connectors which were filthy and then put them back onto the fuel ring to leak/drip test them, all ok, so now to test the flow and all appeared ok and consisitant, this was done with a spare plug with 12 volts on it and by turning the ECU to start the fuel pump, the fuel pressure by the way is 38 PSI. I was now happy that all the injectors are consistant and are letting fuel through, so back into the engine and fit everything back on.
A engine compression test was done about a month ago to check for a valve problem and all cylinders were about 130PSI but the engine was rebuilt last year with all new rods, pistons, bored, camand followers, rocker shafts and rockers etc, just about everything really. The general condition of the engine is great and its runs very quiet and no noisy tappets etc, with good clean oil and pressure.
So restart it and it runs much smoother and tick over is up a mile to nearly a fast run but its still missing and backfiring intermittantly down the exhaust when you rev it, now if I pull the middle injector plugs of nothing appears to alter even the middle 2 together on the same side doesn't seem to affect it but the outer ones definitly alter things. Its seems to run much smoother but is far from right, in theory its got to run smoother its had a duff injector replaced.
Last test tonight was to meter both injector circuits on Ohms and they both come in at about 5 to 6 Ohms which is right to the book, and pulling each plug off when watching on the meter clearly shows they are all in circuit. The plugs that were clean last night are now a biscuity colour as they should be, but bear in mind its not left the workshop yet and is still early doors into whats wrong with it.
So boys whats up with it, thoughts please ?????
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I stick mine in the washer on No4 (soft woollens and delicates) at 40*C with an extended rinse, put half a tub thing of Persil Original non-biological powder in the left hand draw, wrap the hook (if its still on) in rags and a couple of zip ties,
and then pray to dear God they're done and out of the washer before SHE gets home or it will death after a prolonged b*****ing,
and dont forget to get the grit out of the door seal and put the washer controls back to where it was before you started,
another tip is, do not under any circumstance let them know or suspect you have any idea of how the washer works, trust me
they have ways of knowing do the enemy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Just found 2 knackered injectors on the motor, one not spraying and one electrically dead,
Not an excuse just a reason for the total lack of power................and punches............
Sounded like a canal barge......
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Some very interesting scores in there............. I made a right error of judgement on SS2 following boasting about my skills pacing cable out for the last 32 years, just forgot I'd only a 100ft on the front winch and the 125 was on the back, opps....
Thanks for a fantastic weekend, thorougly enjoyed it, even though the truck wouldn't play on more than 4 cylinders
Few nights in the garage I think on the Megasquirt
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Great photos those Zardos, really enjoyed the slideshow.
oil choice for a v8
in International Forum
Posted
It could be what is known as knackered and may need a lot more than oil pump gears, it may need big end bearings, main bearings, camshaft bearings, rocker shafts and rockers, and then have a good luck around for wear, but try some good old 20/50and hope for the best.
Questions are, does it rattle and smoke a bit, and has it done a million miles ???
Good luck