Dads Toy
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Posts posted by Dads Toy
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Where are you?
I got some from a place in Stoke - on Trent. Walked in with the paint code and they asked whether I wanted cellulose or 2 pack and how much. 10 mins later I walk out with a can and it matches my Landy perfectly.
Find your local paint suppliers and talk to them, they were even matching paint from small panels people brought it whilst I was there with some clever gizmo.
Malcolm
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I'm South of Manchester, near Junction 18 M6 and have 2 different tools for setting them.
What size are you using as steel one's can be hard to set ?
Malcolm
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OK a few days playing and not sure I'm getting anywhere
The good news - the warning light panel went well and everything there works fine.
The bad news is that I'm still stuck with the temp gauge. Checked and metered the wiring mod and that's fine, borrowed another speedo and same result - temp gauge only just gets off the blue square when warm. Doesn't even get to the white arc!
Bought a genuine LR temp sender and still the same although if I short the sender from the tip to the base/block then I get full deflection on the gauge.
This suggests to me the circuit is working but the sender is either not getting hot enough or it's got too much resistance.
Whilst under the bonnet I noticed that the top hose doesn't seem to be getting very hot ( I can easily hold it). Took off the stat bleed cap and fired the engine - got spurt of water which suggests the pump is OK.
Beginning to think the stat might not be opening - does this sound reasonable?
Is the sender before or after the stat? i.e. if the stat doesn't open then does the sender only get heat from conduction from the head?
If not the stat then have I got an airlock?
Not quite despairing but getting close.
Malcolm
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Just had mine done at a long standing diesel specialist in Stoke-on-Trent. They offered nozzles from both Bosch or an Italian make they've used for years - Bosch was twice the price.
They reckon they've never had any Italian one's brought back because of problems.
I went for the Italian one's and so far so good. The specialist seem to have done a good job and 24hr turnround as well.
I would not have bought the nozzles off the net and fitted them, they recommended them and supply them.
Malcolm
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The rubber sits on the floor at the back with the round section against the closed door. The piece in the top pic sits on top of it with the flat section towards the door, the lipped section covers any floor covering. It is then rivetted through the rubber to the floor to secure it. The bit in the second pic - dunno!
I'll try and get a picture when I finish my fuel filler installation!
Malcolm
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I had the privilege of being lent a specific spanner (£80 worth) recently from my local independent Land Rover place - I didn't ask he offered.
It went back the very next day, as clean as new and with a couple of beers.
As he said, "I don't lend to anyone, I happen to know you and reckon you'll treat it correctly"
Malcolm
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I had the same problem when I changed the temp sender on mine - the old one broke in half.
I got the (correct?) green sender AMR 1425 but that gave exactly the same symptoms you have. I was driving around with the heater on full blast trying to get the temp down
Microcat lists 2 senders for 300Tdi's AMR1425 and AMR3321 but no explanation as to which should fit what. I then got AMR3321 which seems to have a very dark colour collar and the temp gauge immediately went back to what it was previously - sat in the middle after the engine warmed up.
I'm reluctant to say normal as I've just done the Td5 conversion and the temp gauge now reads much lower. This seems to correspond with the fact that the top hose doesn't get very hot when the engine is warm. Tdi's are reported to run cool so maybe the original sender was over-reading a bit but at least was well below the red.
Malcolm
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I used the wiring mod from this thread - i even got all the correct coloured wires plus the correct connector to match up with the instrument harness. Double treble checked the pins plus used a meter to check they ALL terminated correctly.
I'll have another play over the next few days and thanks
for all the suggestions.Beginning to think maybe the 'magic' is missing from the speedo. It only had 4 miles on it when I bought it so maybe they forgot to put any in at the factory and that's why it was sold.
With all the help from the experts here, I'll get there - the rest of the instruments work fine. Although I've yet to do the warning light panel, I've already checked all the led's work so it should be just a wiring swap.
Malcolm
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Now I'm confused
When I put the temp through the speedo via the wiring mod to ROW spec it doesn't register on the gauge (just comes off the stop on ignition ON)
When I wire it direct from sender to gauge I get what looks like the correct indication.
The fuel gauge (via the speedo) shows similar level to the old one.
Maybe I've just lost my 'magic' in the speedo.
Malcolm
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One final question - honest.
What is the Temperature gauge part number for the Td5 panel? I have YAD 100900 but can't find what it fits.
Malcolm
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Well the gauge works fine so must be something to do with the wiring. I checked and checked and checked again that I've got the wiring mod done correctly but still no joy with the temp gauge.
Next, going to try a wire direct from the sender to the gauge.
Shame as the rest of it went so well.
Malcolm
Just tried a wire direct from the sender to the gauge and get what looks like a correct reading.
According to the write up, this shouldn't work!
Is there any reason why I shouldn't just wire it in this way?
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I've done the harness mod and have the sender so a bit of substitution with the fuel gauge is going to be my first stop. That should show whether the gauge works. If it does I guess I'll have to re check the wiring.
Malcolm
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Well it's working now!
I took it apart, which was fairly easy - Bezel off, glass out released the 2 latches on either side and the gubbins all drop out. The 2 buttons press down on 2 rubber pads which make contact with 2 small plates to move the hands forward/back. I took the hands off (they just pull off) and the face then comes off and you can see what you're doing. I cleaned up both the contacts and the bits they contact and hey presto I can change the time.
The mistake I made was trying to put it all together and then put it back into the case. After a couple of minutes, I realised that if you drop the mechanism in and latch it, followed by the buttons, face and finally the hands it's a piece of cake. Glass and bezel on and back in - job done.
Speedo works fine after I put the transducer in but the temp gauge doesn't
It comes off the stop when the ignition is switched on and that's all so a bit more investigating to do.Am I right in thinking that the fuel gauge is the same but just a different face? If so I'll swap the 2 and see if the temp gauge is u/s otherwise it's got to be wiring.
Getting there
Malcolm
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Thanks, that's what I thought.
Unfortunately the buttons have no effect on mine
although the clock itself works OK.I may try seeing if I can get inside it to see if it's something obvious - the buttons must surely just make contact behind to make the hands move.
Either that or I disconnect the power until the time on the clock matches the actual time.
Malcolm
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Eventually got round to doing mine - gone fairly smoothly so far to my surprise.
Decided to the the instruments first, make sure that all works and then wire up the warning lights. mileage on the speedo comes up fine although transducer still to put in and test, fuel gauge looks right and temp seems o.k.
Not your normal question on this conversion, but how do you change the time on the clock? It's going fine and I assume it's the 2 little buttons on the surround but pressing mine has no effect. Maybe that's why the whole cluster was cheap.
Clock is YFB 100390
Malcolm
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I've just taken the injectors out of my 300Tdi to replace the nozzles after 110,000 miles.
They came out surprisingly easy, apart from one copper washer that decided it wanted to stay at the bottom of the injector hole!
I have new washers, but as per the title, which way up do they go?
They have a ridge all the way round the middle, does this go against the head or the injector? The one's I took out were crushed flat and I couldn't tell.
Thanks
Malcolm
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If the cars insured in your name and someone else not named on your insurance is driving it, then I strongly suspect your insurance is invalid and would walk away! You could also expect Mr Plod to take an interest when the other driver reported being hit by an uninsured driver.
If he had 3rd party cover for another car on his insurance then the other driver could claim against his insurance, but your car would not be covered.
You've got to make sure who is responsible for the insurance before you let anyone "test drive"
Put yourself in the other drivers position and think who you could claim against if it happened to you.
Malcolm
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Try "Captain Tolleys creeping crack cure"
One of the best names for a product, worked for me. Just run it along any joins and watch it get sucked in where it then cures.
Malcolm
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Thank you for the link.
At least it's not specialist tools, shims, extreme tolerances etc and looking at that it just seems that nozzles are about the only things that will wear.
Still not sure I'm competent enough to have a go at them especially after the problem of slight leakage after re-assembly.
I may just get them done by a specialist, let my wallet take the hit and have some come back if they're not right.
Malcolm
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So, I've got a 15mm spanner and a small ultrasonic cleaner (used for cleaning jewelllery, model train bits).
Is changing the nozzles the only thing you need to do to an injector?
Mine have been on for over 100,000 miles and I've been quoted £55 each to recondition them. Even that is cheaper than buying new one's, so intrigued to see if there's a way to do them myself.
Always thought they were a bit of a specialist job with lots of expensive kit needed.
Malcolm
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Had the Mantec for some time and it works well ......but.
There is a rubber washer between the piston and the carrier itself, it wears fairly quickly and causes a bit of a rattle when the door is closed.
My main criticism is there are no grease niples on the pivots. They just slide of nylon washers which inevitably wear and it doesn't swing as easy as it should. I thought about drilling the pivots and putting grease nipples in but it's just a large tube and I don't think it would be effective. All you'd do is fill a tube with grease and very little would get to the wearing surfaces.
Malcolm
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Cleco's - and very handy they are indeed though you do also need the special pliers to insert/remove them.
Malcolm
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And I have an Armstrong (o.e.) on mine.
Malcolm
for all the suggestions.
wibbly wobbly speedo
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Eventually got my temp gauge to work
:D 
Checked everything - wiring mod 5 times, new sender, flushed system even boiled kettle on wing and dumped sender in. That showed the wiring mod, gauge and sender were working correctly so came to the conclusion that there must be an air lock somewhere (possibly introduced when I changed the sender and put a new thermostat in). Despite following the rave instructions, making sure the heater circuit was full it still wouldn't work.
Then I remembered reading somewhere that you have to get the front higher so parked it the other way round on my drive (which slopes slightly) . This morning took the stat plug out and found an airspace there and in the rad so filed it up went for a run and it works. Just to make sure, I've got the engine nice and hot so the stat was definitely open and parked it facing up hill again.
Malcolm