Dads Toy
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Armed with the pictures and part numbers I went to my local main agent. From the pictures etc he soon found what i needed BUT you have to buy the complete unit for about £80.
Same with my local independent.You can buy all the knobs separately but not the actual switches.
Luckily I've found a breakers that has the whole unit for significantly less. Just hope the switch works.
Again thanks for the help, it got me on the right track.
Malcolm
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Yes!
That's the module we took out and it's the black oblong switch top right in both pictures that's gone. It comes out quite easily as it just clips in so I'm hoping I can get it separately. At least I now have something to show parts places.
Thank you.
Malcolm
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I'm having great difficulty finding the part number (or even it's correct name) for the actual switch that controls the fan speed on the heater/aircon on a Discovery 1.
It's a '95 300Tdi and we need to change the switch as it's 1) not working properly and 2) the contacts at the back are poor.
The knob looks identical to BTR 6494 but the switch PRC 5436 is not the one. The one we have "mended" is marked "Siemens" and has vertical contacts on the rear onto which a connector fits. It pushes into the fascia and just clicks into place. The control knob slides horizontally. I can't find it on Microcat and hope someone here may be able to help. I'd post a picture of the old one except it's in Spain and I'm now in England.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Malcolm
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Unfortunately not. We'd already bought one like that but when we took the fascia off it's not the one. The one that's in situ has the contacts vertically at the back and the mechanism actually slides horizontally as opposed to swivelling like this one.
It's got "siemens" stamped on it plus a load of numbers.
I've been told you have to buy a complete fascia to get it - but hope that's not the case.
Malcolm
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Thanks, BTR 6494 is definitely the same knob as we have, but it's the actual switch it fits onto that I'm looking for.
Malcolm
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And here's the Iron Goat one - got it some time ago when they weren't as expensive.
Really pleased with the result. Malcolm
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Just visited my chum who's Discovery ('95 300Tdi) was having air con problems. As it's in Spain it's pretty important as the temp gets quite warm!
He got it re-gassed at a local garage and lovely cold air now comes out but he now has a problem with the fan switch.
We took the fascia apart and found the switch wasn't working on a couple of positions and the connector on the back had overheated and gone brittle.
We took them both out, cleaned up the switch contacts and got one more working. We also took the wires out of the connector and put them onto the contacts at the back of the switch - not ideal but with insulating tape to stop them shorting at least he has 3 out of 4 speeds on the fan. Problem is, what is the switch part number as we can't find it anywhere (even Microcat), and does anyone know what the connector number/type is so we can do the job properly?
Thanks
Malcolm
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Well I'm glad it's not just me that's having trouble with this!
I'm trying to replace the low pressure switch on my 300Tdi with a gauge sender that has a low pressure switch built in, but the body fouls before it seats fully. I just need a straight extender but rocking horse manure seems easier to find. I'm going with Westerns adaptor (PRC4033) but suspect the threaded section is going to be too long so will need to cut it down and a die run over the threads. Here comes the tricky bit - just like Crusader I'm still not sure what thread it is!
1/8 nptf, M10x1 ? Surely there must be a spec for the sender somewhere.
Malcolm
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I bought their speaker housings and they were very good with all my daft questions. Replied to e-mails quickly and when they arrived they fitted perfectly.
Malcolm
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Thanks for the diagram Western, ETC4033 is exactly the part I need.
How do you find parts like that as they don't seem to appear in any of the diagrams I've found?
Malcolm
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Make sure your T piece comes out far enough. I've got an electric sender complete with warning light switch but the case fouls the oil thermostat when you screw it in. I'm now looking for a straight extension with 1/8 NPT male one end and female the other. Anyone know where to get one? I can find T pieces and may have to use that but then would need a blanking bolt!
Malcolm
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Must be lucky, but mine has the single wipe if you push it slightly up plus 1st click up is normal speed, second click up is faster and one click down is intermittent.
Maybe it's being nice to me as I replaced the wheel boxes greased the rack and put new arms and blades on.
Malcolm
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Yup, the Tayna for me as well and well impressed . The bigger the Cold cranking Amps the better!
Malcolm
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You can get most of the VDO range from here http://www.etbinstruments.com/VDO_Range.htm#VDO_Electronic_Tacho
but the tacho's go to 6000 and I sure wouldn't want mine revving that high!
HTH
Malcolm
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I spent ages trying to get the cover to hold on the drop arm - mine didn't have any sort of groove at all and kept popping off.
The top should be held on with a spring type thingy (technical description!) I filed a "small" groove in the drop arm where the cover sits and then put a cable tie on and so far it's held.
I have all the bits ready to convert it to a straight Disco type with TRE instead which looks a much better solution but I guess having just paid for the ball joint you don't want to spend out again.
Malcolm
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That'll be a Pozidrive No4 bit and is fairly elusive. If you change to stainless steel bolts they are usually No3 and easier to get.
HTH
Malcolm
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I wish you all wouldn't keep on about how daft 205's look
- they're on mine and I can't afford to replace them yet!Malcolm
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Another yes from me, after skinning your knuckles, rounding off bolt heads because the spanner/socket doesn't quite go on square - just buy it!
Malcolm
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Thanks - will sort tomorrow.
You mention that your cover was also wrong - how was that? - I was going to rely on what the cover what telling me in terms of required sizes!
Not sure what the cover was from but the circuits it showed certainly weren't the ones underneath. Had to pull each fuse to see what it actually protected then used handbook to put correct fuse in.
Malcolm
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Mine hasn't even got the heat shield! Wasn't on it when I bought it and not got round to sorting it yet.
Am I doing any serious harm?
Malcolm
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Had the same when I bought mine - most of them were wrong as was the cover. I just put the correct sizes in and so far nothing has blown.
Almost certainly just laziness, a fuse blows so someone has just put anything they had to hand in instead.
If they do blow when you put the right one's in then it's doing it's job and there's something wrong with the circuit. Better to sort it than run the risk of damage/fire due to too much current being allowed by the larger fuse.
Malcolm
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How very annoying, 2nd in a row that this has happend !!
Yes, but you are being very sensible - temptation is to buy it and try and sort it out but you could end up with either a Landy that's nothing like you thought you bought or worse it's been stolen some time ago and you lose it and your money.
It's not the only one out there, there will be a good correctly documented one waiting to be bought.
Malcolm
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Thanks for all the info, following which I'm almost set on 235/85R16 on 6.5" steel (modular) rims.
Just the actual tyre to choose now but there's loads of advice on that on previous topics.
Malcolm
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I'm looking to replace the tyres on my 90 and after searching all the threads have got it down to 235/85 or 265/75. I've also worked out that I'll need 6-7in or 7-8in rims to suit and may have to adjust the steering stops but now I've got confused. I notice talk of different offsets, spacers and whether the rim needs to be a tubeless or tubed. My plan was to look in the mags and see what offers there are but will I get the right spec? What are the different wheel types - steel,spoked,alloy, boost, wolf?
At present I have 16x6JK33 rims with 205 tyres and will probably use it more on tarmac than off road but want the ability to play.
Any help will stop my head spinning!
Malcolm
Same with my local independent.
- they're on mine and I can't afford to replace them yet!
Door seals
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Some time ago I replaced the door hinges and eventually decided I ought to change the door seals as well.
I took the old one's off then adjusted the striker plate so the door shut nicely and was flush with the body.
Now I've put the new seals in (sorry I used Br**part)
and have difficulty shutting the doors. You really have to slam them. I could adjust the striker plate but this would leave the doors proud of the body.
Apart from the obvious error, how are you supposed to adjust them? At the moment when the door is closed, the card touches the seat box at the front so is it a hinge problem as well?
Next effort will be a genuine Land Rover seal and see if that makes any difference.
Malcolm