Chicken Drumstick
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Posts posted by Chicken Drumstick
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13 hours ago, stevebus said:
Good man I'll take that on board, not that I've made any choices yet but I can't fault the Goodrich tyres I've got, superb! I'm only listening and taking on board advice from what I have seen on forums, I suppose it'll all be down to personal preference at the end of the day, I still do like the Goodrich
Don't get me wrong. I'm not really bashing on the Toyo's, I don't mind the brand at all. Just put a set of Toyo AT3's on the Freelander. The MT is IMO still really an AT classification tyre despite its name. If you are only after ATs, then certainly consider them. And if you fancy 255/85's your choices are hugely limited. I actually opted for 33.10.50R15 as it was cheaper to buy 4 new rims and tyres than get the BFG's in the 255/85 size and I just didn't fancy the Toyo MTs.
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6 hours ago, RedLineMike said:
My first thoughts there are look like tyre pressure's are a bit hard & too low a gear chosen,
No it wasn't driver, everyone else would be using the same gear/speed. You can't go too quick on a trials course as you won't make it through the gates. Tyre pressures are also set by the rules, min is 21psi. However in my experience unless you are dropping them down to 15psi or lower, 21psi will perform about the same as 30psi on most surfaces. I'd guess tyres where at 28psi knowing the owner of the vehicle.
Compared to AT tyres the Toyo MT is ok, but compared to other MT's they fall short when used in mud... imo backed by knowing multiple people who have this tread, seeing them used side by side with other vehicles running different brands/treads, having used the Toyo MT myself and having access to a shed of maybe 20 different mud terrains and ATs. They aren't bad on road or maybe even touring/laning use. But if you plan to spend time in more serious off road situations there are other much better tread patterns. Sadly however not in the 255/85 size.
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7 hours ago, mad_pete said:
So no real bad choices but for low mileage casual off roading on a 90 with Mach 5 and slight lift
255/85R16 Toyo mud terrain's is a good way to go.
Depends what you mean by off roading.
On other tyres nobody else struggled. But the Toyo MT’s needed pulling out in the end. Pretty rubbish in the mud tbh.
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1 hour ago, stevebus said:
I've always been a big fan of Goodrich, long lasting and at the heady heights of 60mph have always stuck to the road on a fast corner, but it does seem not just from this forum these Toyo tyres seem to have quite a following and having a quick look are virtually half the price.
That's a nice looking wagon fella, hope there wasn't any horrible sod pulling you on the no parking bit, weren't you paying attention😁
Afraid I’m the opposite, I think the Toyo is a dreadful mud terrain and worse than many AT’s in the mud!! Not a tyre I’d want to spend money on. Truly awful on anything other than tarmac or gravel.
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Does anyone know if you can buy the rubber insert that goes inside the transfer box gear knob? Mine has decided to turn into a waxy material and come off when you try and select low. Thanks.
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19 hours ago, miketomcat said:
Disco 200tdi, defender lt77 and 1.4 lt230 on 255/85x16.
My ibex is disco 200tdi, disco lt77 and 1.4 lt230 on 33/12.50x15.
Oddly the ibex is quicker off the mark but cruise's at 70, the 110 feels slightly taller geared but feels like it's screaming over 65 compared with the ibex but will happily exceed the speed limit. It can only be down to differing ratios between disco and defender gearboxes, the tyres are near enough the same size (110's possibly slightly taller).
Either way it's what I consider the perfect ratio, tall enough to cruise but low enough to tow. A little more power would be nice but it works really well.
Mike
Defender and Disco LT-77’s have the same ratio. So the only difference is 32.8” tyres vs 33.1”. Which isn’t huge in terms of rpm.
Pre-Defender Ninety’s such as a TD have shorter gearing.
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Haven't seen this one posted. Pretty good write up IMO and some interesting points.
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1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said:
I had 265/75s on my car before I went to 235/85. In reality the 235 was as wide if not slightly wider.
What brand, where they remoulds? A 235 should be distinctly narrower over a 265. Remould 7.50's can vary quite a bit, but 'new' no-remould brands should be fairly even with sizing. A 265 is substantially wider than a 235.
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3 hours ago, mad_pete said:
Looking at the same thing for the same reason, what's a good size to go for on R16 with a slight lift ? I think I went a bit wide last time.
All/most of the reputable brands should be a good tyre. Really depends what your are after tread wise.
As for size. 235/85 or 7.50 x 16 are great sizes that work well on a Land Rover.
A 265/75 is about the same height but fatter.
If you want taller the 255/85 is a nice tyre. But expensive and very limited choice of tread.
285/75 not quite as tall but taller than the others. But a lot fatter.
That’s about your choice in 16” unless you want fatter again and arguably too big.
There is a distinct lack of tall thin tyres. A 9.00 x 16 would be nice if there was some choice.
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3 minutes ago, TSD said:
I don't generally share my opinion of the Rover V8 here, as it runs the risk of being labelled as heresy on this forum.
Its a good simple unit used in 100's of different vehicles and well proven. It is no power monster, although back in the day it was pretty good compared to contemporaries. I currently have 3 of them and have owned more of them. They are a nice way to get 200hp and a smooth running awesome soundtrack. These days though you can have another 100 Horse Power+ and as good or better mpg from a more modern V8. In the USA it would be easy and cheap to pick up an LS/LQ Chevy engine for very low cost. Or even a 5.7 Hemi from a Dodge/Chrysler. But getting a 4.0/4.6 RV8 over shouldn't be all that hard being as they were sold there too. Which would make for a more factory and "Rover" setup.
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14 minutes ago, TSD said:
Maybe it's just because I'm old and grumpy, but to me it seems a shame to go to all the effort of importing a nice 110 and then destroy a lot of its character by stuffing in a big V8 and a slushbox. Might as well go the whole hog and reproduce that rebodied Jeep monstrosity in the 'Pass the Bucket' thread
Obviously depending on legalities, I'd still be thinking hard about a tdi, (or of course a 2.8TGV from the South American spec Ford Ranger). If lack of power really is the problem, for $10k it might be easiest and cheapest to keep all that power in another vehicle parked next to the 110 and make the choice each morning ...
Auto box I agree, I'd personally prefer a manual. But a V8 goes with a 110 like butter goes with bread. The factory even sold them with V8's fitted
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45 minutes ago, Happyoldgit said:
It’s a pity it is not available here, I might be tempted if they were.
I would too. I think the top spec is about 60k Aus$, which would be about £32k here.
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9 hours ago, Snagger said:
By the same token, you could find a used diesel…. I think I recall the Cummins being 7-8k, still a lot of money. 12-15 would be way over the top.
Looks to be more than I thought.
https://shop.cummins.com/SC/product/cummins-r28-turbo-diesel-crate-engine-5467036/01t4N0000048ikGQAQ
For the UK/EU it'd be a really nice engine bar the price. In the US I can only see it making sense if you plan on doing big miles each year and need to watch the mpg. But anyone spending this kind of money on an engine is unlikely to be fussed about mpg and general running costs I'd have thought.
Looks like an LS3 crate engine has gone up in price, but still half the cost of the 2.8 Cummins....
I would think a 5.3 cast iron block LQ engine from a junk yard would be a nice engine and likely the cheapest route. Only real issue is what you do about the transmission. There are a few LT230 to GM auto options, but not much choice if you want a manual.
Doesn't look like the op has come back though
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12 minutes ago, deep said:
The world of vehicle styling has long abandoned the concept of form following function and now it seems everyone is scrambling to convey an image, except they're mostly confused about what that image is!!
It's not all bad everywhere though. I had a look at a GWM Tank 300 yesterday. They're a mixed bag in photos but, in the flesh, they've nailed it. It genuinely looks like it's designed for its purpose, rather than for an image (it helps that this properly diff-locked display vehicle was actually fitted with decent mudgrip tyres). Despite the excess of computer trickery, I found it highly appealing and half the price of the vehicles we talk about here.
The Tank looks great, some good Oz coverage of them. Didn't think they were available in the UK though?
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9 hours ago, Snagger said:
I don’t know that a Cummins would be so much more than a new LS - I haven’t looked it up. The 2.8 Cummins is pretty compact, though, so might be an easier fit. As to noise and smoothness, these are generations ahead of the Tdi and it didn’t seem too noisy, especially considering the 90 it was in had no interior linings and the tunnel cover was still absent. Most of the noise came from the big tyres. I do get your point, and yes, a V8 has to be smoother on the transmission, but most damage is from heavy feet rather than the crank impulses, and an LS is at least as likely to kill the transmission as a four pot diesel.
Isn’t the Cummins something like $12-15k? And would still need loads of parts and adapting to fit in a Land Rover.
A crate LS is I think around $5-6k. But tbh you’d just go to any junk yard and pick up a running 4.8 or 5.3 for $1000 if you are in the USA.
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7 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Surprised to hear that, have used ProComp ES9000 for the last 35 years or so, never had an issue with them, loved them, only swapped to Fox because of the weight of my mog axles
Regards Stephen
I had Rough Country shocks on my leader above and no complaints. But I used to run +2 ProComps on my coiler 88. I forget the exact model, got them from Llama4x4 iirc. They lasted well, never leaked. Did rust a bit, but not quickly. Only replaced because I eventually pulled the eye off the top of a rear one.
Replaced with Britpart Celluar Dynamic. The Britpart handle way better with loads less roll. But ride quite a bit harsher.
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10 hours ago, JonathanCus said:
I have an 88" series 3 with fairly flat leafs (measuring 45cm from bottom of front bumper on 7.50x16 tires). So I want to fit parabolics and was wondering what brands give the best increase in lift and longevity (time before they start sagging). Also, what kind of lift should I expect to see? Ps. I am aware that I will need longer shocks. Thanks in advance
Lift will depend on which springs, brand, spring rate and how saggy your current ones are. I'd suggest some good modern gas or twin tube shocks. If you move the upper mounts you can get a much longer shock and more flex too. Although you may wish to do some other supporting mods too.
Not sure on brands these days, Heystee used to have the reputation, although I couldn't get on with them when I went to buy, so I bought from Rocky Mountain Spares. Biggest thing I'd say is, don't buy high spring rates unless you need the loading capacity, it'll ride rock hard and bouncy otherwise. Soft springs will give a good ride, but reduce how much you can haul without lots of suspension compression. Softer springs will give more body roll too.
Really miss my leafer.....
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2 hours ago, Reggie87 said:
I just imported a 1987 Defender 110 Ex Military Diesel from the UK to the US. It's unmodified and has the 4 cylinder self aspirated non turbo diesel engine. It's 24v as it was the radio/comms vehicle. I am looking to do an engine conversion to a turbo diesel so I can use it and am looking for suggested shops in Florida that may do such work. Suggestions appreciated
Not sure how standard it is. Looks shiny and tidy for ex mil. Guessing those pics are of it in the U.K. as it doesn’t look much like Fl. It does look nice though.
You’ll probably want to change the tyres too. Those “Security” remoulds aren’t great on road or off road.
I think most NaD diesel Military 110’s have the 1.6:1 ratio transfer box. You may want to bear this in mind as it’ll give super short on road gearing and a low top speed due to gearing.
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No idea why you’d want a turbo diesel if you are in North America. The only reason turbo diesel was popular in Europe was down to the fact we pay considerably more for fuel. The petrol (gas) V8 was better in every regard other than mpg.
It’s not as if the diesel units are comparable to a Cummins 5.9 or a 6.6 Duramax. The diesels are unrefined, small displacement, noisy and down on power and performance. Don’t get me wrong. I have a Tdi Land Rover myself. For the U.K. it is sort of ok, but access to much more affordable fuel and I’d personally think you’d be utter mad to want to fit anything like a Tdi in it.
As for suitable engines. Depends what you want to do with the vehicle at the end of the day and what you are planning on doing with the transmission and driveline. Land Rovers are not designed for huge Bhp. You could swap out the axles, gearbox and transfer case for non LR items, but by the time you’ve done this and swapped the engine. You’d have to ask why bother having a Land Rover if you have nothing really left of it?
If you want to keep it "Land Rover" swapping in a 4.0 or 4.6 Rover V8 from a p38 Range Rover or a Discovery 1 or 2 should be fairly straight forward.
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You really need to crawl under and take a look or maybe take a photo and post here.
In theory I'd guess it probably would have had a drum equipped Salisbury axle, but it is possible that it has a basic Rover axle. As you just don't know what has been done to it in its lifetime. you might also want to check the front diff. It isn't unheard to find out people have fitted a Range Rover/Ninety 3.54:1 to only one axle, ignoring the fact a Series would be 4.75:1 as standard. Which then often results in breaking one diff or another.
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On 2/23/2024 at 10:43 AM, Harry m said:
Terrafirma or Britpart or should I just go ome if I can get them std hight
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5 minutes ago, Stinkfloyd said:
Hi Vulcan bomber,
Out of curiosity, are you saying to avoid all the modified boost pins? (Even the ones with a good rep?) If so, why? I'd have thought they'd work well with your timing advance kit? Is there a specific issue they cause?
Cheers
In the past lots were made from soft cheap metal and would wear a groove in, messing with the fuelling and making them worse than not tampering at all. Also, you should be able to see the gains just by using the stock pin and changing its position, but you need to spend time setting it up. The modified one is just more of a generic setting. So yes, they can work. But could come with longer term risk of performance dropping off. And ultimately are a bit like applying a generic map to an ECU controlled engine. Meaning with a little more effort you can probably get better results not using one. All IMO and others may have different views.
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12 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
"What I Would Fix On The New Land Rover Defender, A Car I Helped Design"
That is a very challenging read, the tone is dreadful. Had to close the tab in the end.
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2 hours ago, Green200tdi said:
After a bit of advice,
who’s brought a box from Ashcroft can you talk me Thu it in sending and receiving old and new box,
when you buy a gear box from Ashcroft transmission you pay for gear box plus surcharge think it’s called vat bla bla bla
is sending the old one back part of their price do they arrange to pick it up when new one is delivered?
Its quite simple, things like gearboxes have a surcharge. If doing this online, you pay the surcharge, but once you send them your old unit, you'll get the refund on the surcharge amount. Its this way round, as historically people just wouldn't send in the old unit or it wouldn't be of the expected condition. I'd recommend phoning them up if you are unsure or maybe even come and visit. Should be easy doing there and back in a day from Wiltshire. Dave is very good, my Uncle knew his Dad Ian Ashcroft. They are only down the road from us. So I'd highly recommend them as a business.
Tyre advice
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
The KM3 is a very nice tyre IMO. Not quite as good on road as the Toyo, but very acceptable. And the KM3 is much better off road. But they are pricey..... In 255/85 these are your only real choices. Occasionally you might see a Maxxis tyre, but I can't see any for sale at the moment. In 235/85, 265/75, 285/75, 7.50 x 16 or the 15" sizes like 33.10.50, 33.12.50 there is a lot more choice.