bigbeast

I'm not sure Nigel maybe Paul knows. I would like to know why the fault actually happens though. anyway it's all fixed now, thanks to Paul for the header. we are back driving at night now!! just in time for the snow too

Anderzander it was in fact your old thread about that which prompted me to check my header as we had the same fault issues. looks like it's quite a common-ish fault. Seen a few threads from the various other forums which had the same issue too, all had the same knackered header

Hi Nigel thanks for the kind offer, however I pm'd Paul and he will supply me with one and the new terminals I need also. Cheers anyway much appreciated You are correct though, the connector splices 4 seperate circuits. You can't just join all the wires together but you can join all the blacks together, all the browns together, etc

I know but I wanted to fix it proper. if I can't get one I will solder n tape it. Will send Paul a pm see if he knows a source

Hi chaps. I've googled this but I'm not getting any answers. I have been chasing an intermittent fault with my lights and alarm for a short while. Side lights and head lights not working, then working, then not working, then alarm siren goes off when light switch moved to side light position, then fine for 2 months, then stopped working completely! Fun fun Anyway tracked it down today to a melted blue header (0287) behind the lower dash. The problem is I can't find anywhere that sells these connections. They are made by sumitomo and are a 090 hm series, but seemingly cannot be bought. Can anyone advise? Or better yet does anyone have one going spare, beer tokens will obviously be paid It may be a trip to the scrapyard to source one otherwise Pics of offending header are below

Saw some floor tiles goin for £2 a pack in B&M bargains and cudnt resist! Haha

Managed to get the box carpeted this weekend. Colour match to the existing carpet isn't great as I could only go off pictures on eBay. Finished box looks damn good now tho. Took some more pics for ya. Yeah I think the flat bar idea will be the way I'm going to go. To be fair it's a very snug fit especially with the carpet on now. Snailracer, the paddle latch was from whb.org.uk horse box supplies place. That was the cheapest I could find. Since that I've found an Albert jaggers which also do them but have no idea of price, may be worth checking out. The quality of the latch used is good though

Got the drawer built and installed. Very snug fit. for now its fine but i think i should still bolt it in somehow. Still need to carpet it yet.

sounds like fun mate haha

hi all going to be building a load bay drawer/storage unit thingamajig in the defender next week. just though id start this thread so people can see it and maybe give ideas to knock one up themselves. i know a few lads have done these in the past but mines will be a touch different as my drawer will only take up half the load bay. as i do carry passengers in the back of the 90 and wanted to keep at least 2 fully functioning seats. ordered the hardware today and should be here friday/monday. drawer slides are 90kg rated (at 450mm, mine are 550 so slighly higher rating i suspect) going to be storing my tools and stuff in the back so will defo exceed 40kg. the handle is to be a paddle latch (lockable) when done will all be carpeted to match existing grey county carpet wood will be 18mm ply...which is free from work fixings have cost around £50 (£32 for slides/runners, £17 for paddle latch) the only part i havent figured out yet is how im goin to fix it to the landy. dont really fancy drilling holes in the rear tub. might try and use the rear seat mounting holes somehow, using a brace or something. how did anyones else fix theirs in place?? ben

Cheers western

mating face is smooth. Rear flange is warped/curved slightly, hoped the gasket would account for the difference in surface level but it hasn't. Will have to try n grind it flat over weekend

It sounds great bud. Just got my mate to drive it past me in it and I had a big smile on my face when he booted it! Bad news is rear connection between rear silencer is leaking slightly, i used a brand new gasket and hoped it would be ok but the face of the mating surface of the rear section wasn't totally flat upon removal of the old mid silencer this morning. Is there a thicker gasket I could use maybe?

Ahh so its like that to allow for adjustment, makes sense. Cheers guys Just metal to metal dude. You think I should use a sealant of some sorts?

Photo

Hi all. Fitted a replacement straight through midpipe today on the td5. For the life of me cannot get the midpipe to mate correctly to the down pipe. Or well at least it dosent look right to me. I've attached a pic of how it looks currently. The olive on the down pipe will not seat fully in the new midpipe. You think I should send the part back or is this ok?? On a plus note, she now sounds sweeet as a nut

jbs. thats on my list to do when this one goes. for now i just needed to ge this done and keep it cheap. to be honest wouldnt mind doin it again wasnt so bad. yep that spring thing is a complete waste of time. holds the boot on until you actually move the ball joint, then it just slides up. it does sit ok when drag links bolted on as it compressed it all down but still not exactly a tight fit

After reading what a pig this job could be I was well prepared to start with. but have hope people, i can honestly say it was a piece of cake, took about hour and half. With no fancy pullers or expensive tools. Just to give you a heads up a 16mm socket halfords professional range is the perfect size to fit in the top of the drop arm to drive the upper cup out using a bolt and washer method of tightening the socket down into the top of the drop arm. Didnt even have to drive the new cup into the arm. dont know it if was the kit (all makes), It was a snug fit and only needed tapping home lightly (greased it before hand) Guess my experience of this job has been easier than most lol Happy days

hi chaps according to google these gearbox oils are one and the same? can anyone confirm before i part with my cash MTF 94 is the same as 75w80 GL4 there is a price difference between the two thats why im asking MTF 94 seems to be around £9 per litre, and 75w80 is around £5 per litre??? your help is appreciated as always. Ta

will crack on at weekend, i dont get much time after work to fiddle..will remove the rear corner covers and check the earths, and lampholders for any abnormalities..im sure this is where the problem must be, as it defo started happening when i changed the bulb..thanks for the advice again lads

i have taken out both bulbs, and the light symbol on the dash still illumites when the brake is pressed, so ive ruled out dodgy bulbs i have indeed changed a bulb recently, will unpluging the lamp holders one at a time reveal if thats the cause..thinking about it, this started to happen when i changed the bulb!! how exactly would i do this? do they have there own earth strap behind the panel? i am total idiot when looking at a bunch of wires thanks chaps

when it comes to electrics im not really clued up so i need your help guys my symptoms are - with the lights off. the side lights RH and LH will ilumuniate when the brake pedal is pressed. with the lights on (sidelights or main) the brake lights are fully lit and flicker without the pedal pressed and last night the engine continued to run when the key was removed. first time this has happend, rest of the problems have been happening for around 5days ive done a search and it seems an earth fault would be the likely cause?..my question is..what would be the logical steps to go about solving the problem? how would you do it? thanks guys

been away for a couple weeks so only just got back on track with this...yep master cylinder is empty!!, slave cylinder looks fine as its dry as a bone around that area..i will fill up the master and monitor the leak and go from there another problem has arisen now..electrical one..will start a new topic lol

I will have a quick shifty 2moro hopefully, thanks chaps for pointing me in the right direction, very helpfull. Hopefully the slave is the problem fingers crossed

Driving home today, could get any gears to engage at one point, then cudnt get the bloody thing out of gear, this happend a few times over the space of 5miles, also clutch pedal feels like its got around half of its travel as free play! Also for a while now when engaging 1st gear I have been getting a judder and screech sound..this only happens engaging 1st and reverse. Related problem? Am I right thinking my first problem could be slave cylinder? Bust clutch?