bigbeast

those scenic seats look the dogs!! i wonder what other seats people have put in front and rear, both or either!! could make a inspirational thread this

cant really help you but i believe my td5 to be standard and i have had 94mph on a flat motorway, so i imagine your should do a little better with a stage 2 map and larger intercooler, however i dont have a rev counter and the engine was working hard.

i too have a judder..as well as a squeal, when setting off in first gear! i originally thought dual mass flywheel for the judder, as apparently when the rubber starts to break up they can cause a judder..but then why the 'squeal', the squeal literally lasts 1 second as does the judder as i let the clutch up to set off in first with a small amount of throttle, i then thought clutch, but no problems at all in any gear at any revs apart from standing start....so i am reading this in hope that i mite be able to solve this problem by changing the slave cylinder but not to sure reb78 i read the thread you linked to and jus wondered - you qoute "One other thing i noticed was oil on the bottom of the engine and bellhousing. My first thought was rear crank seal (oil on the clutch plate would explain the judder i suppose), but if i look through the drain hole, the flywheel is completely dry"...how did you check this? shining a torch up the drain hole?

not looked into these before...this is a good idea, but they aint cheap by the looks of it...i mite buy a cheapo off the bay and see how it goes

jus paint em red to match ya landy

needs work..........

if i were saving £600 then i know which route i would go down, but thats just me

you mean the plastic dowels? plain stupid isnt it touch wood mines ok so far

'water in fuel' known problem with the fuel water sensor coming on despite the filter containing no water 1) warning lamp illumination on dash 2) faulty fuel water sensor / contamination of sensor 3) remove sensor, clean all faces and electrode with clean cloth and refit if cleaning fails, the sensor is most likely goosed and needs replacing

sorry for dragging this back up but heres one to add.. the famous 'oil pump bolt' 1) loss of oil pressure 2) knackered engine 3) remove sump..remove offending bolt, apply loctite 242, torque to 25Nm, refit sump mainly on early Td5 99-01, however cases have been noted up to 04reg for the bolt to have no signs of threadlock check at the ealiest opportunity if in doubt or your next oil change

just out of curiousity..i know its around 1000-1200 for a galv chassis...but how much would it cost (ish) for an existing chassis to be dipped and galved..it there a massive price difference? or is it just a pita, ie sourceing a firm to do the work, and easier to just buy the new galv chassis..thanks

32 all round ...mainly road and lane use

my BFG A/Ts are reaching 56k, mainly road and lane use..never known a tyre to last as long...they are in need of a change the the sidewalls are starting to crack now..i just cba buying new ones

i replaced the felt in my sliding windows around 2 years ago with the LR stuff, and they are starting to rattle again, the felt just gets wet and over time and dosent perform as good...i didnt remove my windows, just scrape out the old stuff and work in the new felt using the sliding motion of the window to help push it along, only took around 30-45mins to do both sides..i would recommend that you use the woolies trim as mentioned, i will be using that when i do mine again the near future

My local Costco dosent stock 5w30 magnatec only the 10w40 unfortunately..will check out the chevron brand. I believe A3/B3 is ok to use in the engine as it's backward compatible, however I would rather use the approved oil..A5,B5 is fine too I believe as it's same as A1/B1 just a newer spec

will be doin an oil change at weekend, so naturally ive been looking for oil specifications are 5w30 A1/B1....ok so actually not many choices castrol magnatec 5w30 is actually the cheapest @ £25 for 4L @ tesco and asda!..and i need 8L so half hour on google and i find QUANTUM SYNTA Z 5w30 A1/B1 now this stuff is apparently made by Castrol for VAG group (vw, audi, skoda), and is now the only brand oil i believe VW dealers are using in services, and is on the approved VAG oils list...sounds good to me. ....heres the best bit....this stuff is around £13 for 5L!!! @ www.thetradepartsspecialists.co.uk go on there site to find local outlet..turns out mine is 3 miles down the road...Happy Days!!! hope this can help someone!

what kind of grease is best used on the UJ's..moly grease or some sort of marine grade. ie waterproof grease?

nope! the mounting stud, the bracket assembly, and the pulley are the same on both vehicles strange

ok so i was looking for a couple of part numbers in microcat yesterday...came across this Td5 power steering pump - DEFENDER - QVB101350 Td5 power steering pump - DISCO 2 - QVB101240 now i was under the impression they used the same pump? am i wrong.. and what is the difference..i know the disco has ACE..it it something to do with pump pressure? are they interchangable? thanks

i have the day off work tomorrow..sooo i plan on removing said pipe, try to rethread the union, and then go to a local hydraulic place and get a new pipe made up if there is any signs of wear on it...they said it should be no problem after describing the pipe to them

Sorry for the confusion western I think I was lookin at the wrong part on craddocks Yes the part you've show is the one..I thought the link from craddocks was the union on the end of that pipe, my bad! What do you think to getting one made up or should I just go with the OEM part, britpart I believe it is Thanks

I don't know where that part corresponds too, think it might be off a different pipe system to the td5 western Thinking about having the pipe made up at a local hydraulics place.. Anyone had any work like that done? Should work out cheaper than buying the part which is £29 from island 4x4

At least isnt just me who had a nightmare with it haha..yes I removed the pipe so I could get a good luck at the thread, and it is damaged..looks like island 4x4 do the pipe set for £60 but I only need the one I believe this may be the little buggar but it dosent have a pic http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/products/rtc5674_banjo_union_seteering_box.php Think a thread repair mite be the best option to start with, will have a work with my local garage

all was going well yesterday, the steering box came off and went in quite nicely, only took about 3 hours..get to the very last bit before adding fluid in..and the union on the power steering pipe had somehow been damaged in the process and would not screw down..i was Peeeed off to say the least!! my question is does anybody know where / or has a spare one lying around, i can get one..its the pipe from the pump to the box that runs under the radiator..and its a defender TD5 2000X i mite be able to use a die to repair the thread but i dont have a set..maybe the local garage could do it?

exactly..just wanted to see what others thought their prices are very good i must say, and they have 100% feedback on ebay over around 12,000 items sold i think..seems like very good service aswell. thats a hard score to get over that many items! well i will be doing my PAS (new box going on)this wkend..and engine, gearbox and diff oil changes shortly before the colder months set in they havent been done in a while, so looks like a big order going there way from me