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    All the usual, from beer to Land Rovers.

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cols110's Achievements


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  1. Thanks Si, it has been a while. The old bus only gets driven occasionally nowadays & that is mainly to take the dogs to the desert for a run which is why I rarely post here as not much goes wrong with it sitting in the drive way waiting for its weekly drive.
  2. Thanks Simon, I will check it out, I think it is but I don't think I have put a spanner on the nut to check tighten, I know it has never been loosened, but will give it a heave & see if it helps.
  3. G'day all, it has been sometime since I have posted here but I am struggling with some ongoing steering issues I have been chasing for quite some time. My 110 has done a lot of hard off road use & now has almost 202 000km on the clock, the steering had quite bad vibrations & was wandering but is now almost right apart from wandering when coming lightly off the power at cruising speed. Full deceleration or under power is fine but when you come off the power just a little as when you come over the rise of a hill or up to a vehicle in front who is going slightly slower it becomes vague & weightless as though the front axle is wandering. So far I have done the following, there is probably more I have done but forgotten to list. -New Super-pro bushes throughout the vehicle & on the front radius rods I fitted the new heavier duty SPF0195SK bushes -New A frame ball joint -New shock rubbers/bushes & the shocks are in good condition -New drag link & track rod ends -New steering box drop arm ball joint -Rebuilt swivel housings, new genuine pins & bearings, preload correctly set without wiper seals in place -Steering box adjusted, there is no abnormal play between the steering wheel & the wheels, it all seems very direct on the ground & on jacks, with one wheel on the ground & one wheel off, I cannot find any play anywhere. -Wheel bearings adjusted several times -Tracking C/O after the swivel housing & track rod ends replaced etc -OME springs with about 40mm lift, noting over the top & not castor corrected but when I lifted it many years back it was not wandering. -Bilsein steering damper about 60k old but seems OK -Tyres, 285/75/16 BFG A/Ts with not a lot of use, tied different tyres pressures When I lever the pan hard rod ends & the radius arms for movement they seems about right & what you would expect with movement within the bushes, the movement is similar to my G Wagon which steers perfectly. I would replace the steering box if I though it was the issue but it seems pretty good no matter how I check it, from the steering wheel down or the wheels going back to the steering wheel, on & off the ground, one wheel on the ground the other off. There is some back lash in the front diff & transfer box but about what you would expect & no noticeable lateral movement in the front pinion bearing. I am scratching my head now of what to check next, something is not quite right but I am not sure what would give the weightless feeling when easing of the power, I can normally counteract my driving style by removing my foot from the throttle or applying power. It is not a smooth way to drive & it is not how it should be I would also be worried about letting anyone else drive the vehicle who is not ready for it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  4. If I have to go to the trouble of shipping one out here to Dubai to test with I would probably rather just get a new one & be done with it, as you do not know what is wrong with the second hand one either.
  5. I just popped the lid & can see no obvious damage, there are a few imperfections on the board but I think these are probably from manufacture. I wish there was an obvious fault as I would then just go & buy a new ECU and be done with it.
  6. Will do mate, that was on my list to do, will keep you updated.
  7. OK I think I may have found the problem, I was playing around with the circuit tests on HawkEye which I didn't do before on my bucket of bolts and when I do the CM test it throws up a CM ROM CHECKSUM ERROR. I am no expert on computers but to me that would be an ECU fault unless some else knows different.
  8. Done all that mate, the plugs are spotless, I also replaced the injector loom about 40 000km ago due to oil contamination.
  9. Thanks mate, sadly I cannot do the driving thing as with the hard fault the engine is permanently stuck at idle with the management light on.
  10. I found a few spare hours this afternoon & spliced in a new loom from about 6 inches either side of both plugs & sadly there is no change, the fault is exactly the same as are the 3 codes spat out by HawkEye. When I ran a meter over the wires all of the reading were the same as well & the same with the driver demand voltages read from HawkEye. With a new potentiometer & loom all I can think of is an ECU fault unless some else can think of anything else which relates to 3 x driver demand faults.
  11. Thanks all, when I get some spare time next week I will rewire the loom, as then it will isolate that as a possible cause if it does not help. I have some 5 core wire ready to go. Will keep you updated on how it goes. Si, I compared both my new & old pots with a meter & they were both similar readings so I guess I have a spare pot if ever I need one.
  12. Si & Ally thanks for the suggestions, I will look into them tomorrow, I had been holding off splicing a new section into the loom as it seems to check out OK with the meter, but I suppose if I do that it will either cure the fault or confirm the loom is good.
  13. Thanks Steve, yep it is a 3 track pot & so is the new one, I did as you suggested & changed it to a 2 track & back again, after clearing the faults the DD faults did initially clear but after start up the same faults returned again. I also have this thread running on an Australian forum and someone has posted their HawkEye readings & they are quite similar to mine. With the engine not running I took the following reading with moving the accelerator pedal, -Driver demand 1, 0.98, flat to the floor 4.68v -Driver demand 2, 4.08v, flat to the floor 0.45v -Driver demand supply 0v, flat to the floor 10.0v So it does seem to me everything is working correctly which is a problem.
  14. G'day All, I have had an ongoing driver demand fault issue on my 2002 TD5 for the last couple of weeks which I cannot get to the bottom of. I now have the Engine Management Light come on a few seconds after start up & thats how it stays, I am also unable to take the engine off idle. A few weeks back it started getting a slight miss around some left hand corners , then a week or so later after it had had a miss when I next went to idle that is where it would stay & the engine management light would come on, you could usually clear the fault by turning the engine off then on again but now it is a hard fault that will not clear. I suspected either a wiring or accelerator pedal potentiometer issue. I have just purchased a HawkEye to help with the issue & I had many different codes relating to multiple items so after clearing all the codes I am now left with the following codes. -3165 Faults detected with driver demand -3141 Driver demand has been faulty -3166 Inconsistencies found with driver demand I have fitted a new accelerator pedal/potentiometer, nil fix or change. After inspecting the engine harness from the ECU as best I could I can find no obvious damage to the looms or plugs. A wiring check with a good quality Fluke meter detected no open circuit between the ECU & the potentiometer plugs, the resistance on the 2 earths was a little high which traced back to the earth post below the ECU, so I ran a new heavy wire to the post from the battery & it solved the slightly high resistance problem to the ECU & pedal but did not make any difference to the main problem. At the potentiometer plug I seem to have the correct readings as well.(These figures are similar with the engine running or with the engine off and the ECU powered). -Pin D, earth good -Pin G, earth good -Pin B, 5.022v (ECU supply) -Pin J, 5.022v (ECU supply) -Pin F, 0.020v -Pin C, 4.977v -Pin K, 4.970v When you move the accelerator pedal you see the voltages change as you could expect on pins F, C & K, the supply voltage remains stable & 5.022v. The driver demand voltages from HawkEye with the Engine running, -Driver demand 1, 0.94v -Driver demand 2, 4.12v -Driver demand supply 0v From what I can determine so far everything seems OK apart from HawkEye telling me the "Driver demand supply is 0V" which is incorrect as I have confirmed with a meter I am getting 5.022v. To me this is starting to look like an ECU issue where the ECU is supplying 5v but not sensing it. Sadly I don't have access to spare ECU to try for troubleshooting out here in Dubai. Does anyone have any ideas of what else to try or what else it may be before I get another ECU or send mine to the UK for testing & possible repairing. If it is my ECU does anyone know who can test & repair the ECU in the UK.
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