Jump to content

berti1554

Settled In
  • Posts

    64
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by berti1554

  1. Really looks good... Have you done any changes on the axles like stronger half shafts? Also, as your rrc is a 93 V8 it should have cats (is this the correct short term for catalytic converters ) installed. So you have the "small" front drive shaft. Any problems with it?
  2. ABS can be fitted on a more or less easy way but is also a huge job (see the ABS-thread and my psots there). ABS-axles are different (need sensor, differnt calipers - see posts above). Either rework/upgrade the axles you have or take different ones (e.g. rrc w/ ABS, that's what I did). I'm not sure if ETC will work on a tdi as I think it needs some information of the ECU. Maybe you can elide this on some way but as we are talking about the brake system I wouldn't make any experiments on the electronics or other parts. If I got you right you just want to have the ETC - fit lockers or a LSD, this is the cheaper and more reasonable way!!
  3. Don't know the system of the Disco but should be the same as the one on the rrc is from Wabco also - see pic
  4. The pics are from the V8 conversion of my oneten. The brakes with ABS is just part of it (new heating and A/C, AT but with LT230, new exhaust system...). System is completly the same as on the rrc, just some minor changes (different discs and pads). I haven't started to fit the loom yet (will use the rrc loom and modifiy it) so I have no solution for the deactivation of the ABS but this shouldn't be a major problem although it's not a ABS as used on most common cars. The rrc is using a high pressure electric pump for the brake servo so just switching off the power supply would end up in lack of brake power. I'm sure that there can be a switch put in a line to the ABS-unit to deactivate it but as stated above I haven't looked into the wiring diagramm yet. Cheers
  5. Everything is possible... but pics say more than words If you do it install a switch that the ABS can be shut off. Cheers
  6. It's a 90 with 3.5 V8 but has manual shift. Question was if the auto box (assume it is a 4HP22) is the same length as the LT manual box as it is fitted in the 90V8. If not the engine mounts and the left transmission mount has to be adapted. edit: just saw it's a 110 and not a 90 but doesn't matter
  7. Not sure if this is as easy as you say. On my defender I had to install new mounts for the AT and engine (there should be a thread somewhere in this forum) as the AT has a different length compared to the manual box. The only mount I could use was the one of the transfer box (note: defender was a 200tdi with LT77 manual box). For the wiring harness: Doesn't matter if using MegaSquirt or not - build your own. Then you can be sure to have it a the correct length (the one out of the rrc is long enough to fit the ecu e.g. under the cubby box but I'm not sure about the one out of the disco) and new wires. Old engine looms may have problems with wire breaks.
  8. It depends on what you want to have installed on your Defender. In my case I use nearly the complete loom of the rrc as the one of my 110 is in very bad condition and I don't like the routing thru the frame to the rear lights. The "new" loom is routed inside the truck. Also, I install some options I didn't have before like A/C or central locking. If you just wan't to install the V8 you don't need much - basically just the engine loom and modify it a bit (for gauges, conection to your key switch, conection to fuses...). Easiest way is to take the scematic of both your Def and the rrc or disco where you removed the engine and compare it. It's not a big job put has to be done carefully as the ecu doesn't like shorts
  9. The engine and loom is out of a rrc - it's long enough to fit the ecu underneath the cubby box. Fuel lines will be new (standard bulk material). I will use the fuel tank out of the rrc. Cheers - Robert
  10. I live in Rietz, this is approx 30km in the west of Innsbruck. Do you mean Linz (Upper Austria) or Lienz (Eastern Tyrol)?
  11. What I do is to use nearly the complete drivetrain out of the rrc. This is the 3.9 engine, the ZF4HP22 autobox and the front and rear axle. The transferbox is out of the defender, it's the LT230 22D. It got the better gear ratio for my use (1.4 instead 1.21 as the Borg Warner of rrc has). The only problem I will face whith same is that the front wheels get spinning in sharp turns on asphalt when it's unlocked. That's what I learned today when I was driving the D90 50th Anniversary of my uncle. But as I don't want to have the 110 as a street racer it's not that big issue. Also, I will use the complete braking system out of the rrc. With this I ran into some troubles today as the WABCO unit needs to get fitted exactly at the place where the steering column runs thru. The ABS will be modified with a switch to shut it off. Regarding the positioning of the engine: I've put the engine, autobox and transferbox together and positioned it with the mount of the transferbox. You can use the one out of the Defender. This should allow you to reuse the propshafts. Then I've cut out the engine mounts of the rrc and fitted them to the Defender (I've removed the original ones before). This was realy an easy job as the frame of the Defender and the rrc got nearly the same width. For the mount of the autobox I used the parts out of the rrc but the mount had to be adapted (see attached photo). I don't know if you want to fit your V8 with cats but if you want to do so you have to be careful with the front propshaft - you can just use the one out of the rrc and this is not the strongest one. That's where I am today (also, the exhaust was patially fitted). I've got a long weekend coming as Monday the 26Oct is a public holiday here in Austria. Hopefully I can fit the brake system, exhaust and PAS then. Cooling system has to wait as I have to get the right radiator first - will use the same that is installed in a D90 5oth Anniversary. The cooler for the autobox will be separat. Robert
  12. Thanks - I spent no thought about installing a balance pipe but it makes sense to me. I assume it should be nearly at the same place as the Y is on the standard exhaust and should have the same dia.
  13. Makes no sense to me. If the one that is installed hasn't enough capacity install an alterantor that has higher capacity. That's what I did on my Series III.
  14. Hi Guys, I'm new to this forum although I registered a couple of weeks earlier to read some threads. I've got a Defender 200tdi were I removed the tdi engine and installed a 3.9 V8 out of a rrc - this was done yesterday. Now I'm working on electrics, cooling and exhaust. To pass the TUV (similar to your MOT) here in Tyrol/Austria the requirement is that the bystander noise is not more than 79dBA (that's what the tdi had, the rrc was above and also our D90 50th Anniversary is above). So I have to make an exhaust that has the typical V8 sound on the one hand and meets the requirements of the TUV on the other hand. My idea was to use the down pipe of the rrc with the cats installed (also requirement) and then using 2 pipes (one for each bank) going to the rear, dia will be around 54mm. Regarding the mufflers I haven't any idea, I just can experiment with different ones from the breakers yard. The tailpipes will be routed thru the rear bumper - 2 on each side (see photo, white circles). Also, I heared something about a butterfly valve to increase backpressure and reduce noise level but I'm a bit nervous about damaging the engine becasue of getting hot. Anyone got experience with this? Any other ideas? Thx - Robert PS: The exhaust shown on the photo is the one I removed from the rrc that had 80dBA
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy